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I've got splined security nuts on my wheels and I actually prefer them to regular hex nuts; I'm pretty sure the splines can handle more torque than hexagonal nuts. I have, however, seen some atrocious poo poo where the barrel is smooth and there is a key cut into the outer face, definitely gently caress those.
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May 23, 2014 03:37
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 I figure this would be the most appropriate thread in AI for this Land Cruiser. Any knowledge to pass on? I'm not necessarily looking for a daily driver, but I think if this isn't too bad of shape, it would make for a stellar weekend/camping truck. I'm guessing parts will be a bitch, though. They seem pretty rare.
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May 29, 2014 04:03
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Not gonna comment on parts availability but that is pretty much my dream truck.
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May 29, 2014 04:09
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Make sure the frame isn't horribly rotted and everything runs and works and then buy it. Seems like a fair price given that it looks nice and clean, really. IIRC, that is even a solid front axle.
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May 29, 2014 17:42
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In California that could be 4x the price (for a rust free ca car)
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May 30, 2014 04:59
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Solid axles front and rear on the old 60 series, only downside is that its leaf sprung front and rear and wont have the handling and comfort of the later all-coil 80 series. But you wont buy an 80 series for $2500 either. Its a pity you guys didnt get the Turbo Diesels avaliable in the 60 and 80 series- the 12HT in the 60 series is a ripper of an engine compared to the 2F/3F. In other news, Why the gently caress did i bolt on a full set of underbody bash plates, THEN buy a diff breather kit that requires me to remove said plates to install?
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May 30, 2014 12:45
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 anyone have a figure on what this would cost to build? 10k-20? just for the frame/chassis. The warm weather is around and I wanna build somthing fun this summer. :human being:
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Jun 5, 2014 05:24
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You're looking at 1500-2k just for the axles to start off (those are 6 lug M35A2 deuce and a half 2.5 ton axle housings, judging by the lug pattern), figure another few grand for drivetrain (what engine? what transmission? what transfer case? You could spend anywhere from $150 to $2500 on each of those, easily, depending on whether a junkyard pull or a brand new all-aftermarket unit is what you want), a couple thousand in tube, call it 1k-2k in tools (tubing bender isn't cheap), 500 bucks worth of seats, a racing steering column, brake system, cooling system, few hundred in batteries, you could spend anywhere from 1k to 10k on coilovers depending on how fancy you want. Tires are probably at least 2k, wheels at least 1k, those are custom beadlocks. Plus a couple hundred hours of fabrication work. That's much cheaper if you can do it yourself and count its cost as zero because you enjoy it. e - for that specific build: Looks like a Klune V, Stak, or Atlas transfer case. That's somewhere around $2k right there. Unsure what engine, can't see it. No idea on transmission. Wheels, you could just get recentered HEMTT/FMTV/5-ton combat wheels with deuce pattern centers put in and save a bit. Still plan on 1k for wheels. Tires, that's at least 2k. Unsure what those are. Those look like aftermarket 7075 control arms. That's probably a grand right there, there are 8 of them. That is by no means a cheap build. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 05:36
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Bingemoose posted:
Here's the build thread - http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/925043-mr-edd-buggy.html
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Jun 5, 2014 14:51
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There's million dollar rock bouncers out there, they are by no means any sort of 'economy' build.
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Jun 5, 2014 16:11
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e: oops
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Jun 5, 2014 16:40
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NitroSpazzz posted:Here's the build thread - http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/925043-mr-edd-buggy.html Holy poo poo, that thing is even more awesome than I thought. Probably a 25-30k rig or more. His control arm angles are insane, with them sloped up like that, he'd have to literally slam into an undercut ledge head on to affect suspension at all. I kinda want to see how he has his drivelines run, because with toploader rockwells (the driveline enters the housing probably a foot above centerline) it must be interesting in a buggy that low.
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Jun 5, 2014 17:36
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kastein posted:You're looking at 1500-2k just for the axles to start off (those are 6 lug M35A2 deuce and a half 2.5 ton axle housings, judging by the lug pattern), figure another few grand for drivetrain (what engine? what transmission? what transfer case? You could spend anywhere from $150 to $2500 on each of those, easily, depending on whether a junkyard pull or a brand new all-aftermarket unit is what you want), a couple thousand in tube, call it 1k-2k in tools (tubing bender isn't cheap), 500 bucks worth of seats, a racing steering column, brake system, cooling system, few hundred in batteries, you could spend anywhere from 1k to 10k on coilovers depending on how fancy you want. Tires are probably at least 2k, wheels at least 1k, those are custom beadlocks. Yeah I know the cheap build. I want to find a frame before I start pricing out some motors and everything else first. Just wanted to know the frame cost for building a custom tube frame.
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Jun 5, 2014 20:40
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You can pick up someone elses caged pile of parts thats unfinished for not much. there are also companies that turn ready-to-bolt-poo poo-on and race buggy cages.
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Jun 5, 2014 20:52
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So. I want to do something really stupid. http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/hamilton/1995-lada-niva-for-sale/591131843?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/st-catharines/1998-lada-niva/589124036?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true I likely won't, but I really want a beater to take on some of the apparently pretty sweet logging/mining road trails around where I live, without beating up the new truck. And I really want a Lada Niva. Tell me I'm a bad person.
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Jun 5, 2014 21:14
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Bingemoose posted:Yeah I know the cheap build. I want to find a frame before I start pricing out some motors and everything else first. Just wanted to know the frame cost for building a custom tube frame. A couple grand at least, unless you can bend tube and weld. Then it's what, $30 for a 12 pound roll of welding wire and $3-7 a foot for 1.75x0.120 DOM depending on who you buy from.
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Jun 5, 2014 21:22
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Bingemoose posted:
If you follow "madram11" on Facebook (He's a videographer for the rock bouncer events) He put up a link to a used competition winning rock bouncer buggy like this one (With 500hp LS based motor), Dana60 front and Chevy 14bolt rear. Used price was $35k. Of course you will need a trailer, tow rig, Extra tire or two, fuel, and a maintenance schedule.
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Jun 7, 2014 20:16
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I figure its better to ask in this thread than the Jeep thread: I want to do a circuit panel similar to racecar wiring. This will be rear mounted in the back, near the auxillary battery. It will be a sheet metal panel, with a row of solenoids, and a common power bus feeding them off the aux. battery. I'm thinking Row of Solenoids Fuse for each solenoid Threaded + post to run device Threaded post beside it for the switches Common ground for everything going back to the aux. battery. Am I missing something ? I'm not sure how many circuits to build, maybe 10 ? Circuits I need are: Flood lights Spot lights Rear flood lights Stereo Amplifiers Air compressor Winch will be run directly from battery, bypassing the board. Since this will be at the rear, I will extend some of the power terminals to the engine bay so that I ont have to run power leads all the way to the back of the vehicle. Im trying to find a terminal strip/terminal block that also acts as a fuse block. Since all my lighting is LED and HID stuff, current isn't too high. I'm pulling just over 20amps for my entire light setup. But it will be less than 10 amps per circuit.
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Jun 7, 2014 21:28
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Go under the hood of two 97-01 XJs in the yard, cut the PDC out of each with about a foot of harness. Disassemble them, the yellow socket modules are interchangeable, some fit two regular relays, some fit 4 microISO relays, some fit mini fuses, etc. Snap together the set you want, buy it, feed it with a fat cable (fuse protected under the hood) from the front, add the circuits you want. Even comes with a threaded stud for the input feed, a bracket for mounting, and a cover with space for a fuse/relay legend.
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Jun 8, 2014 00:41
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Thats a good idea, but I want to get better at building nice show quality wiring setups, so I figure this will be a fun project. Also my town doesn't junk XJ's. They just get butchered into crawler buggies. I drew up a quick schematic yesterday. (The leads going from the switches to the relays don't all connect because I was getting to cramped on that sheet of paper, but circuit 9 is complete.)  Just waiting on work to slow down a bit so I can go down to the supply shop and grab some relays. I might actually use wood or plastic as a board, since it doesn't conduct.
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Jun 9, 2014 02:31
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Spent the weekend out wheeling, and got it dirty. Irritatingly, I broke the whip on my UHF antenna (loving corrugations!) and my compressor broke a bolt on its crank and poo poo the bed, so I'll need to fix those before my huge trip to Central Australia in July.
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Jun 9, 2014 04:41
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      Big Bear, CA
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Jun 9, 2014 04:56
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One of the guys in our group got us access to the trails on the Los Coyotes Indian reservation this weekend. I guess it's been closed off to traffic for about 10 years. We had a guy that's part of the tribe take us out and show us around. The trails were WAAAAY gnarlier than I was ready for, some super tough stuff. Just getting from one obstacle to the next was an undertaking. The guys in their super-jeeps were having fun on some of the harder lines (El Hill, Bobsled) while the rest of us plunked around on the small stuff. Here's me getting tugged up "Bronco". I made it up to the last ledge and lost traction. I need to see about a rear locker    Here's Runt, one of the super-jeeps. This obstacle is called Bobsled. 6 people tried it and they all ended up winching through.  Here's Runt again on on "El Hill".  
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Jun 9, 2014 18:12
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cursedshitbox posted:Put a heavy rear end blanket on your next tow strap. you and spectators might have your lives saved because of it. The fact this guy never went offroading before probably meant he doesn't have much experience getting unstuck. If you've got the wheels buried past half way you may need to jack it up and stick something in the ruts so it rolls easier over the rim of the mud pit that's been created. Anyone who gets offended by you asking a few simple questions prior to the tow operation is a dickbag. Clarify he's not going to jerk it, he can hear commands to stop, knows where to put the straps (if you don't have obvious points on your frame/bumper) and to do that YOU should know where straps should go on your vehicle. shovelbum posted:I always hear about tow straps breaking left and right and I've seen it many times myself but I see cranes lift stuff on similar slings constantly and not break so many. Is it just because tons and tons of people gun it with slack in the strap and put crazy shock loads on it all the time? Crane fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jun 9, 2014 |
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Jun 9, 2014 22:00
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Also, I don't know about regulations in the US, but the breaking load vs rated load is about double for lifting kit compared to pulling kit.
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Jun 9, 2014 22:38
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FYI Tim Cameron's "UltraBouncer" rock buggy is for sale. 630c.I. big block, powerglide, dana80 axles, $110,000
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Jun 9, 2014 23:10
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InitialDave posted:Also, I don't know about regulations in the US, but the breaking load vs rated load is about double for lifting kit compared to pulling kit. i think in Australia its even higher than that- I know that bow shackles have a safety factor of about 10x from destructive testing- 4.5T shackles were failing at 45+ tonnes. A lot of the kit we use in recovery is built to rigging specs- only real exception is a snatch strap, thats about the only one that is listed in "Breaking strain" rather than "working load limit"
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Jun 10, 2014 08:56
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It is on jalopnik, but... the world's baddest model A. http://truckyeah.jalopnik.com/the-oral-history-of-an-amazing-1930-ford-model-a-off-ro-1588212852/1588260091/+orlove Some guy turned it into a rural mail delivery vehicle in the 40s when it was probably drat near worthless.
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Jun 10, 2014 09:28
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 I don't think I've ever wanted a car so badly.
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Jun 10, 2014 10:25
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Ferremit posted:i think in Australia its even higher than that- I know that bow shackles have a safety factor of about 10x from destructive testing- 4.5T shackles were failing at 45+ tonnes. I seem to recall UK regs are 3:1 safety factor for pulling, 5:1 for lifting, but yeah, the kit you buy will usually exceed that.
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Jun 10, 2014 10:50
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jonathan posted:... I might actually use wood or plastic as a board, since it doesn't conduct. I used a piece of Certainteed cement board for the backing of my aux relay. It comes in 12' lengths as lap siding, 8 1/4" or 9 1/4". It is used in high fire danger areas because it's fireproof. Also, being brittle cement board there are lots of broken pieces at lumber yards if you ask nicely. I have an 8x8" piece with twin holes in the bottom to vertically mount the board. Haven't had any problems, holes are for 10mm bolts with an aluminum strip acting as a washer and hard mount point. Hasn't cracked or failed bouncing around in my Datsun Z.
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Jun 14, 2014 06:14
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Any tips for cleaning off / out vast amounts of clay mud from everything? It's a constant problem for me.
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Jun 15, 2014 23:01
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Wait until it dries and chip it off.
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Jun 15, 2014 23:15
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General_Failure posted:Any tips for cleaning off / out vast amounts of clay mud from everything? It's a constant problem for me. I always heard to just park it over some kind of oscillating/rotating lawn sprinkler for a day - start it on one end and drag the sprinkler a few feet every few hours. Hit the body with a pressure washer at the end.
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Jun 16, 2014 00:50
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Short of crawling under it with a pressure washer (which is a poo poo job- no two ways about it) a very high pressure sprinkler will get a lot off if it isn't the real sticky clay. After my last trip I drove the car up onto a pair of those angle iron ramps on one side to tilt it, went at everything I could hit with a karcher, then swapped sides. Discovered I need heftier ramps- my 1 tonne ones bent!
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Jun 16, 2014 12:55
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Went out and played in the mud this past weekend. https://www.flickr.com/photos/96792720@N06/sets/72157645181812821/ Really, really, really, not looking forward to the cleanup. Still have inches of mud everywhere on my Jeep. It was fun though!
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Jun 16, 2014 13:23
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I always heard to just park it over some kind of oscillating/rotating lawn sprinkler for a day - start it on one end and drag the sprinkler a few feet every few hours. Hit the body with a pressure washer at the end. Hose Tractor.
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Jun 16, 2014 14:25
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Ferremit posted:Short of crawling under it with a pressure washer (which is a poo poo job- no two ways about it) a very high pressure sprinkler will get a lot off if it isn't the real sticky clay. After my last trip I drove the car up onto a pair of those angle iron ramps on one side to tilt it, went at everything I could hit with a karcher, then swapped sides. Discovered I need heftier ramps- my 1 tonne ones bent! Hope you weren't under them when they bent. That's kind of scary. How heavy is it? Sprinkler is a no-go currently because of really lovely flow for the external (raw) taps. It might be possible to feed filtered water out from the laundry building though now I think of it. Does the clay pretty much disperse for you into the grass? It is really sticky clay. Usually red and / or white. It's a motherfucker to get off my boots.
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Jun 17, 2014 02:38
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mattfl posted:Went out and played in the mud this past weekend. Looks like fun! Where was that?
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Jun 17, 2014 03:55
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Geology posted:Looks like fun! Where was that? HardRock Cycle Park in Ocala. It's a huge motorcross park but they also have a very large 4x4 area with all kinda fun stuff. http://www.hardrockmx.com/ Usually there are some rock gardens and hill climbs but it was so wet/muddy the only thing we could really do was play in it.
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Jun 17, 2014 11:09
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