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N is for Nipples posted:Correct. That style of gauges is pretty ubiquitous on 08-12 vehicles and beyond. Interesting fact, this is what it looks like starting up (not my video) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWCBKAT0BOc Cool! Those gauges are neato and an ecoboost F150 is on my list for the next work truck someday.
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Jun 14, 2014 22:32
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Replaced my suspension. The stuff has been there for at least the last 7 years since I bought the car so I thought it was time for a refresh with something a little more serious. Taking out KYB New SR Specials with Tanabe GF210 springs on the rear and RS*Rs on the front and replacing with MCA suspension adjustable coilovers with 6kg front and 4.5 kg rear springs with valving to suit. MCA are great. lots of emails back and forth discussing how I use the car and my goals for it in the future. also can be rebuilt locally if the time ever comes. Surprisingly the spring rates, despite being 2x as stiff on the rear and 3x on the front, the car handles exactly the same but with a lot less shuddering over small bumps. its a little bouncy at the moment but I have 12 steps of bound/rebound adjustment. Also despite being over all shorter, the front sat at good 80mm higher than it did on the old stuff. I have it all dialed to the manufacturers specs right now but will be playing around with it over time. Hopefully I can get an alignment in the next week or so. Bedroom shot:  Old n Busted Vs New Hotness:  Rears in: 
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Jun 15, 2014 03:11
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New valvespring in the 5 ton, drained the mosquito lake out of the bed of the MJ (drain hole got plugged), pop started the crapcan XJ 5 or 6 times because the starter is on the way out and I have been too lazy to replace it. Also helped my neighbor put a new wiper motor in his 1998 International. The drat things are mounted using two studs and two weldnuts. One stud broke, one weldnut stripped. Almost zero access and the weldnuts are roughly between the grundle and kidneys inside the dash up behind the steering column, so we ended up double nutting it with me lying upside down under the dash (since I am mildly double jointed, I could actually see what I was doing) holding the replacement nut in a pair of vise grips while he turned the bolt. Left the broken stud in place because maaaaaan gently caress that thing. It works, he uses rainx and ends up turning the wipers on about once a month so they basically just need to pass a DOT check. E: 2 mounting tabs (about 20min of fab time at the most) from being done with the new bumper for SandbaggerSA's YJ, too. Need to post pics when it gets light out. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jun 15, 2014 |
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Jun 15, 2014 04:01
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Tried to rotate the tires on my wife's RX350 and quickly realized that my jack isn't tall enough. 
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Jun 15, 2014 05:17
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Chinatown posted:I'm guessing a Ford F-150 based on the gagues/font/little truck. Can confirm, have seen this F-150 (and goon) in person before. Also how the gently caress is he getting 3 mpg less than me.. when I drive a smallish economy car?  Most tanks are high 22-low 23 for me. 
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Jun 15, 2014 11:18
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Unloaded trucks have a lot of torque to spare, so they can putt along at really low engine loads.
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Jun 15, 2014 11:32
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Fucknag posted:Unloaded trucks have a lot of torque to spare, so they can putt along at really low engine loads. Yeah, I can do 25 in 4th if I am so inclined. With like 0-5% throttle.
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Jun 15, 2014 12:18
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some texas redneck posted:Can confirm, have seen this F-150 (and goon) in person before. TBF if he was driving delivery in that truck his mileage would be a lot lower. You're pretty much worst case scenario for fuel mileage 
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Jun 15, 2014 14:16
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Panty Saluter posted:TBF if he was driving delivery in that truck his mileage would be a lot lower. You're pretty much worst case scenario for fuel mileage Fucknag posted:Unloaded trucks have a lot of torque to spare, so they can putt along at really low engine loads.
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Jun 15, 2014 20:37
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Show me a better use of an EZ Lip and I'll show you how wrong you are.   
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Jun 16, 2014 00:37
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Fixed a soft top leak on the Miata just in time for a huge downpour, so that's nice. On the Impreza, swapped out the STI struts because I was getting some memory steer and various badness and I knew that the struts were binding. Because the sedan and wagon struts have different width clevis tabs, putting sedan struts on a wagon control arm forces them into misalignment which struts don't like. You can see the witness marks on this photo as evidence that the shaft sure didn't like being rubbed aggressively against the internal brass bushing until it collapsed and then started rubbing against the housing:  In the rear, I had to drill and tap for zerk fittings to grease the strut bodies with. STI struts are an inverted-strut setup so they have a removable gas cartridge that rides on a bed of grease between the cartridge and the housing. Subaru/KYB were a bit stupid when they specified these struts, so the cartridge also wears on the grease retention bushing and eventually starts pushing out grease and you get rear end clunk under repeated hard launches (such as the ones an STI does frequently). This leads to most STIs having their suspension pulled and replaced with Chinesium coilover garbage that ruins the ride, handling and general STIness of the STI. The solution is to drill and tap a zerk fitting into the rear strut bodies so you can inject more grease even after the bushing fails. That's what I did last summer, but one winter later (admittedly without a dust cap) and these zerks are zonked:  Grassroots Motorsports said that Evapo-Rust actually works, so I gave it a shot on the disgusting scaly camber bolts I pulled out:  Idiotically I didn't take a before picture, but take me at my word that it was brown before. Looks like it works. From what I can understand, the Evapo-Rust is basically molasses, so it's non-toxic and can be poured down the drain. You can handle it with your bare hands, and (apparently) put it in your cooling system. New struts are in!  The ride is much better, although I really need swaybars now because transient response has gone to poo poo. I put in 2006 WRX wagon KYB GR2s (from JustSuspension) and 2004 WRX wagon springs (from a local hobo). Unfortunately it turns out my memory steer is because of a failed steering head bearing in the right front strut mount, and I didn't have any replacements on hand. I also screwed up reassembling the right rear strut mount when changing from extended studs back to regular studs (as I could now remove the 1/2" spacer that was being used to space out the sedan struts in the rear). One of the studs just spins in place now instead of sticking to the rubber and letting me unscrew its nut, so I'll have to get creative with vise grips to get it back out when it comes time to replace it with fresh ones. So I guess I get to do all this again soon! Rear strut mounts are stupid expensive for these cars. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Jun 16, 2014 |
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Jun 16, 2014 16:02
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Put a new battery in the Jeep and gave it a good bath. Still need to order a windshield but that's not a big deal. ABS light is off for now, going to see if it stays off. Probably just has air in the line, might take it to a shop to have the ABS code read.
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Jun 16, 2014 23:08
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After many attempts and a few weeks finally got the water pump back on the 302W in the Fairlane. One of the long bolts was super siezed and no attempts to budge it worked. The head had snapped off the already rounded bolt head. My final desperate attempt was cutting the head off a bolt and welding it to the broken off bolt so it could work as a stud and nut. It worked after a few attempts. It just wasn't worth dismantling the timing case etc. and drilling it out. It would have been a lot more time, money and parts intensive to strip everything off. Not proud of what I did, but it was necessary. The Niva's registration expires in a few weeks and needs to be inspected. As any Aussie can attest, the rego time crunch can be a real ball ache without a plan B.
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Jun 17, 2014 01:08
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Saved 20 lb off the front of my Civic.  installed some used 10k springs in the back, they're off Ohlins coilovers for an Evo. This is the closest I'll get to Ohlins coilovers or an Evo.  Also put some poly bushings into the rear LCA
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Jun 17, 2014 02:10
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Chriskory posted:installed some used 10k springs in the back, they're off Ohlins coilovers for an Evo. This is the closest I'll get to Ohlins coilovers or an Evo.  your kidneys
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Jun 17, 2014 03:09
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Chriskory posted:Saved 20 lb off the front of my Civic. What kind of battery is that?
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Jun 17, 2014 03:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:What kind of battery is that? http://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...01-to-2014.aspx I was going to get a Shorai LFX14A4-BS12 online. I went to batteries plus to get the necessary terminal adapters and this seemed good for half price. It tested at just over 300 cca, don't know how long that will be. Panty Saluter posted:
I see feel bumps I can't even see. I also put on my first sticker ever, don't know if I'll keep it.  
Chriskory fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jun 17, 2014 |
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Jun 17, 2014 05:52
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Chriskory posted:http://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...01-to-2014.aspx That is a loving kickass Civic. I hadn't seen one on C1's before but drat that looks good. You race?
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Jun 17, 2014 06:38
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Chriskory posted:http://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...01-to-2014.aspx So does 10k mean 10,000 lbs? I kind of hope not but I can't imagine what else it is...
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Jun 17, 2014 13:12
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10kg, roughly 560lb springs http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-tires-wheels-brakes-suspension-sponsored-tire-rack/308025-spring-rate-conversions-kg-mm-lbs.html
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Jun 17, 2014 13:46
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Lots of suspension swaps on this page. 10kg in the rear in that car is ridiculous. I just put 6/4.5 in the front/rear of a 1300KG car and that is sorta stiff but liveable.
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Jun 17, 2014 14:39
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It's now 450 F and 560 R, pretty much standard for an STC Civic. I had 400F 450R, which is pretty livable on the road but a bit too soft for fast transitions. Panty Saluter posted:So does 10k mean 10,000 lbs? I kind of hope not but I can't imagine what else it is... 10k means 10kg per mm. So it takes 10 kilograms to compress the spring 1 mm. 560 lb/in means it takes 560 lbs to compress the spring one inch (at least that's how I think it works) For comparison this car is is 650F and 800R 
Chriskory fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Jun 17, 2014 |
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Jun 17, 2014 15:59
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whoops
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Jun 17, 2014 18:44
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Got new wheels for my Camaro: 18" American Racing AR105M Torq Thrusts on BFG P245/55R18 Radial T/A Spec rubber.
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Jun 18, 2014 16:05
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Finally got sick of missing shifts in my STI, and asked Jamal to sort me out.  Top: stock shifter, mushy and agricultural. Bottom: Kartboy short shifter, made of flowers and rainbows (if the online reviews are to be believed). Getting the shifter out was the easy bit of the install, however. Jamal also suggested a complete bushing kit, which means the whole shifter linkage needs to come out. I got as far as contemplating how best to remove the universal joint before running out of light. Most people don't seem to bother with those bushings and just change the front and rears. Still, I've got this far, and there's really only one more step: Either drive out that pin, or find some way of getting the bolt in the front shifter stay bracket out. I haven't quite figured out how to maneuver the shifter stay to make the pin accessible, so option B is currently the favored choice. That bolt has to come out anyway, as it runs through some of the bushings. Although I think I have a roll pin punch of the right size...we shall see. This better be worth it. Judging by the state of the front and rear bushings, which were squishy half-rotted pieces of poo poo, I'm hopeful.
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Jun 18, 2014 19:42
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Punch out the roll pin. It'll be worth it.
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Jun 18, 2014 20:09
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Grassroots Motorsports said that Evapo-Rust actually works, so I gave it a shot on the disgusting scaly camber bolts I pulled out: How long did you leave it in for? Also, rumor has it the active ingredient is some of this goofy stuff in some form: http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/search?interface=All&term=edta&N=0&mode=match%20partialmax&focus=product&lang=en®ion=US
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Jun 18, 2014 23:59
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Commodore_64 posted:How long did you leave it in for? Also, rumor has it the active ingredient is some of this goofy stuff in some form: http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/search?interface=All&term=edta&N=0&mode=match%20partialmax&focus=product&lang=en®ion=US About two hours, while I hosed around failing to build front struts.
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Jun 19, 2014 00:30
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Drained, refilled, and bled the clutch of the truck. Also double checked that the coolant level has kept stable with the new heater hose that replaced one with a pinhole in it.
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Jun 19, 2014 02:25
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Goddamn that's a sexy EF.  What's under the hood?
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Jun 19, 2014 03:53
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Slow is Fast posted:Punch out the roll pin. It'll be worth it. Update: it was. Once I got the tranny support out of the way handling the roll pin was pretty straightforward. Stripping down the u-joint was much easier than the Turn In site makes it look, as long as you keep track of which way is up and do one at a time there's nothing to it. Reassembly was not too bad, though pounding the roll pins back in took some swearing. Threading the bolts back in the rear bushing was the toughest bit. I even managed to get it finished up without dropping the midpipe, which would have required me to unbolt it from the turbo outlet. So I celebrated by changing the oil and spilling it all over the garage floor. Then I rolled in it a bit just for good measure. Sigh. Shifter feel is completely transformed. Far more precise. It takes a little more effort (especially N-1) but I'll get used to that. There's a moderately pronounced transmission whine in 1-3, which I rather like. The shifter does rattle a little in 5th, not sure what the deal with that is but it may be related to the two small bolts I had left over.
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Jun 19, 2014 14:14
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Yeah I could move my shifter like 180 degrees when i was in gear when I first got my wagon. You're lucky you've got the "service-able" kind, as mine I had to cut the spot welds and then re-weld them back in along with trying not to melt the new plastic shift bushings as I did this. When I did my last trans swap I just replaced the drat thing with a newer serviceable type with new bushings.
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Jun 19, 2014 15:47
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More suspension chat    That is at the lowest setting. I have since raised the rear about 5/16" in an effort to chase down a clunk that is thus far still eluding me  I still need to raise the front up probably the same amount because it rubs a little when I hit bumps hard enough turning. I also scrape on more things than I'd like to as well.
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Jun 19, 2014 22:02
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some texas redneck posted:Goddamn that's a sexy EF. Possibly 108 ruthlessly efficient Japanese stallions  I installed a short turndown exhaust and a cold air intake, but after only one day I removed them. I don't believe it's worth all the noise, it ruins something about the dual character-ness.
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Jun 20, 2014 22:23
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Test-fit of cigarette lighter plug, along with new not-poo poo single one to the left: (seriously, how can a $1.50 lighter socket from HK/ebay be so much better in quality than the $10 one from Radio Shack? Oh yeah, it's Radio Shack) Mystery box found underneath the rear seat, behind the battery!  What?  Kickass!  I had to grind off the tab to pull open the cover on the lefthand cigarette lighter socket, because it fouled on the dashboard. That made it nearly impossible to open. Solution?  Works pretty well. Also, aftermath of yesterday: 
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Jun 20, 2014 22:41
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It's never the easy bearings. On the bright side my axles are still good. I debated pulling the axle or doing the rebuild under the truck, i chose wrong. It seems all my tools are either tiny or comedically large. The only 3 jaw puller i have is bigger than the diff 
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Jun 21, 2014 02:55
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I put a new set of 6x9s in the GTP. They sound way nicer than the ancient and very abused Lanzars i was using before. I also gave the seats a thorough cleaning and conditioning while I had them out.
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Jun 21, 2014 06:56
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Oil change, tire rotation, and replaced spark plugs/wires (first time ever doing spark plugs woo!). O'Reilly gave me the wrong fuel filter so I gotta return that and get the right one from the dealership.
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Jun 21, 2014 19:02
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Last week I dropped the fuel tank and washed it out with POR15 cleaner to get rid of the old varnishy petrol. Today I refitted it and put a jerry can of fresh petrol in, and then spent ages messing about with the K-Jet metering flap to get it to flow right up to the injectors since it appears to have all run back while the tank was off. It has a 'fuel accumulator' after the tank but this doesn't seem to be holding pressure very well. Then I found that the dashboard and key wouldnt do much so I banished some electrical gremlins using the power of shiny new fuses:  With fresh fuel and fuses and its current fuel pump (the old fuel had gummed the previous pump up so it got a second hand spare I had stashed from my last c900) it now appears to start almost instantly on the key without needing any faffing around pumping the accelerator or catching it as previously  I also checked the fluids on my landrover as I hadnt checked them for ages and it seemed to have stopped leaking. One front swivel hub was almost empty and the gearbox and transfer box each took 0.5l Tomarse fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jun 21, 2014 |
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Jun 21, 2014 20:28
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Bearings, seals, and dustcaps on the tow dolly, pressed new rear wheel bearings into the knuckles for my buddy's 01 B5 quattro avant, dicked around with the 5 ton but got precisely nothing done.
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Jun 23, 2014 04:46
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