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Thank you! Hope I could help.
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Jun 27, 2014 21:07
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signalnoise posted:OK I'm gonna ask. Is anyone here both highly experienced with different paint types AND a user of Minitaire paint? I'm trying to figure out exactly what the issue is with this stuff. It just has so many weird properties. If you are an experienced painter but have not used it but would be happy to analyze a sample for me send me a PM. - Yep. It doesn't play well with VMA or vallejo liquid metal. Only way around it is to varnish the metal parts first. - Yep. It'll definitely teach you trigger control, but this is less a problem with Minitaire and more a problem with paints thinned down enough for detail airbrush work. Like with brush painting multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat. There are certain colors that are really thin for me, and it doesn't seem consistent across the line. Angelic blood and saddle brown are pretty close to unusable to me. - Yep. They all settle, but some worse than others. Some of them mix right back up with a quick shake. Others... not so much. I put an agitator in the problem children. I'm looking at you lust pink and werewolf grey. Also metallics, but those should just go in the garbage. - Yep. But I haven't found this to be an actual issue when it comes to painting. - Sometimes. The paint is all over the board when it comes to finish. A lot are super glossy. A lot are more of a satin finish, and a few tend towards the matte. - Don't know. Never had that happen, but I'm also not in the habit of putting on thick coats. Minitaire is a mixed bag. They are frustrating at times, but they aren't awful to work with either . Most of my painting gets done with Minitaire, not because I love them, but because the whole set was ridiculously cheap compared to basically anything of similar quality and I'm on a limited hobby budget.
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Jun 27, 2014 22:19
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Someone inspire me, because right now I hate painting SO MUCH.
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Jun 27, 2014 23:51
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Beerdeer posted:Someone inspire me, because right now I hate painting SO MUCH. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3p_VuPIS2c
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Jun 28, 2014 04:22
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DJ Dizzy posted:So, whats the deal with painting white? I'm looking to do a knights templar bretonnia army (So unoriginal, I know), and my first test-knight was less than successful. Your white is fine. There are techniques for holding the brush and bracing your hands; I'll try to take photos tomorrow but it's difficult to hold the mini and take a photo at the same time. Seems you tried to paint the scabbard without over-coating it. Rather than painting only the exact area of the scabbard, apply a more broad coat of paint then do touch-ups later. Much like your red crosses, you must apply a larger amount of paint then correct mistakes later. Applying white to mistakes is far, far easier than coating a surface white over a black base coat with a brush.
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Jun 28, 2014 04:41
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:- Yep. It doesn't play well with VMA or vallejo liquid metal. Only way around it is to varnish the metal parts first. You pretty much hit all the points; it's a somewhat finicky paint line. Stirring your paints, not shaking them (even if they look mixed) helps alleviate *some* of the weird issues with Minitaire paints. Also I like to sometimes hit my model with a matte varnish before I put certain colors down because a few colors just bead and separate really badly even if you airbrush them. I've had no problems with Angelic Blood or Saddle Brown so I can't comment on those. I never really understood why it matters what finish paints have when they dry. Gloss Varnish + Matte Varnish isn't even an optional thing to me. If I spend the time painting something I'm gonna take 5 minutes to protect my work. If your paint is tacky, it's not dry. Sometimes I'll leave models half painted for a long while and I've never painted something and then came back after 12 hours and the paint was tacky. Beerdeer posted:Someone inspire me, because right now I hate painting SO MUCH. If you're burned out on what you're currently working on (or just painting in general) just take a painting break for a few days/weeks and/or go grab some one-off model and paint it wildly different than anything you've done. I was getting really tired of my projects so I took some time to paint two of my friend's Monoliths (which I had free reign to paint however I pleased) and that inspired me to start working on some Eldar stuff with a radically different paint style than I normally do. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 09:45 on Jun 28, 2014 |
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Jun 28, 2014 04:49
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Beerdeer posted:Someone inspire me, because right now I hate painting SO MUCH. I dont know about you but as someone who paints 40K I just read some badass fluff and before i know it i cant wait to paint up some awesome transhuman zealots   Not the best examples but im learning
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Jun 28, 2014 14:29
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Speckled Jim posted:I dont know about you but as someone who paints 40K I just read some badass fluff and before i know it i cant wait to paint up some awesome transhuman zealots Not the best examples? They rule man. Yellow is an incredibly tough colour to paint effectively but you have nailed it. What's happening with the shoulder pads? Hit a bit of a wall recently on my Mammoth due to my moronic decision to try to paint my entire Skorne army without using metallic paints. In order to push through it I did some work on the base. It's still a WIP but I'm not super confident with my basing so I'd like any feedback. Especially any suggestions on how to differentiate the statuary from the sand without changing it too much.  I don't know what caused the weird strobing on the photo. Here it is with the WIP Mammoth sat on it.  Sorry for camera phone pictures but my digital camera is out of action for now. The red is a lot deeper IRL.
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Jun 28, 2014 16:09
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Those lenses are awesome, great work. Honestly really well done. I like the vegetation and skulls to break it up a bit.
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Jun 28, 2014 17:18
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I like how it takes me a week to paint a loving Terminator but I'm on pace to have this Knight basecoated, assembled, and start detailing work in <3 hours.
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Jun 28, 2014 17:38
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Speckled Jim posted:I dont know about you but as someone who paints 40K I just read some badass fluff and before i know it i cant wait to paint up some awesome transhuman zealots Nice looking guys. Are you going for a slimmer design or are you painting the shoulder pads separately? The look much more nimble without the added bulk. If you like it go for it, but to a veteran player they will stick out as 'incorrect'. Quick google example of shoulderpads: 
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Jun 28, 2014 18:31
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will blow your mind.
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Nice looking guys. Are you going for a slimmer design or are you painting the shoulder pads separately? Shoulderpads are on him now. I cocked up a bit on these termies. I washed out a lot of the shading when I airbrushed my highlights. Doesnt look like much, but now that the pads are on, the recesses under them look a bit bright. Sorry bout the terrible light in this pic. Been meaning to get some good shots of everything ive done but we have a new puppy in the house and i know once i get them out something will end up in his mouth 
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Jun 28, 2014 20:48
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Is that a gloss coat or something? How did you make the yellow paint on that Termie so loving shiny? 
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Jun 28, 2014 21:32
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Realtalk, that's some of the best yellow I've ever seen and your lenses are awesome too.
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Jun 28, 2014 21:37
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Ghost Tint. I just got my set in today, and I haven't tried them yet. What should I know about them? Any pitfalls/mistakes to avoid? I've heard it takes a while for them to dry, and behaves differently depending on if you brush it on or shoot it through an airbrush.
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Jun 28, 2014 21:41
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Slimnoid posted:Ghost Tint. I just got my set in today, and I haven't tried them yet. What should I know about them? Any pitfalls/mistakes to avoid? I've heard it takes a while for them to dry, and behaves differently depending on if you brush it on or shoot it through an airbrush. You can brush it on if you use incredibly thin coats, otherwise it will bubble and streak on you. Airbrushing it is great, but it's incredibly potent stuff, so watch out so you don't oversaturate. You can also mix it into other paints to very good effect. If you want a bright white undercoat with plasma fluid over it, might as well just mix plasma fluid with white and paint with that. They also work differently depending on which one you get. Oil Discharge is a good armor wash in my opinion, plasma fluid is great at making poo poo look all lasery, and but the blood red one should be applied with a brush in my opinion, for a really saturated blood area. Test everything before you use it in production of course
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Jun 28, 2014 21:51
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AndyElusive posted:Is that a gloss coat or something? How did you make the yellow paint on that Termie so loving shiny? Floor polish. Im in New Zealand, so I cant get my hands on future or whatever the magic one is. I just went to Bunnings and grabbed one off the shelf. I use an oil wash and clean it up with cotton buds. Somewhere along the line i think the cotton buds actually polish it to a shine? I have a couple of matt varnishes to try out but i kinda like the level of gloss. Just fortunate to stumble across a technique that works for me i guess.
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Jun 28, 2014 23:22
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Slimnoid posted:Ghost Tint. I just got my set in today, and I haven't tried them yet. What should I know about them? Any pitfalls/mistakes to avoid? I've heard it takes a while for them to dry, and behaves differently depending on if you brush it on or shoot it through an airbrush. The colors are incredibly inconsistent between batches. Not in terms of quality, its all good stuff, but in color itself. I got the ghost tint set when it came out and then got the full Minitaire set (which comes with the ghost tints again) for christmas, and holding two bottle of the same color up next to each other they are hilariously far apart. One of the purples is magenta, one is violet, and so on.
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Jun 28, 2014 23:36
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I picked up a crap ton of stuff at an auction at a local game store. In one of the lots there were some Warhammer decals. I don't use them, so I thought I'd see if there was anyone here who could use them, after checking with Winson to make sure it was okay (Thanks Winson!) The two top ones and the small one are Warhammer Fantasy. The other one is 40K, but it has a bit of water damage. Anyone have a use for them, and I'll mail 'em off.
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Jun 29, 2014 00:02
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JoshTheStampede posted:The colors are incredibly inconsistent between batches. Not in terms of quality, its all good stuff, but in color itself. I got the ghost tint set when it came out and then got the full Minitaire set (which comes with the ghost tints again) for christmas, and holding two bottle of the same color up next to each other they are hilariously far apart. One of the purples is magenta, one is violet, and so on. Might be a misprint. There is a Magenta ghost tint.
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Jun 29, 2014 00:27
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After a very busy week with work, I finally had a chance to get back to painting. Got some Micro Art Bases, and combined it with a metal ork warboss (with a little bit of Rhodesian inspired camo), to get my first model on a real base. I'm getting progressively happier with my results. 2 Skullz    With some Boyz 
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Jun 29, 2014 03:37
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I'm not sure how I feel about this I'm thrown by the visible glue
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Jun 29, 2014 03:41
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signalnoise posted:Might be a misprint. There is a Magenta ghost tint. No it's several of the colors. The greens, blues, red, and purples are several shades different between the two sets.
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Jun 29, 2014 06:03
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Slimnoid posted:Ghost Tint. I just got my set in today, and I haven't tried them yet. What should I know about them? Any pitfalls/mistakes to avoid? I've heard it takes a while for them to dry, and behaves differently depending on if you brush it on or shoot it through an airbrush. You can airbrush Ghost Tints on and create varying shades of the color. You can create really awesome base coats over zenithal primed models; Look up Les Bursley's "I Hate Painting Red" on Youtube to get an example. You can also paint it over contrasting colors to create interesting shading. Brushing it on basically applies it at full saturation unless you go with really thin layers. Also if you brush it on you have to let it dry fully between coats if you want to make a deeper shade; I used Fresh Blood on a Baal Predator and I didn't let it dry enough and when I went to brush apply in a light spot the brush pulled the original coating off. They take forever to dry so if you apply some Ghost Tints let them dry overnight. You CAN'T paint over them, the medium in acrylic paint will cause the Tint to start bleeding so you have to seal it in with gloss varnish (I do 2 coats just to make sure) if you plan on using Ghost Tints as a base coat. I haven't run into any color inconsistencies like JTS has but the only Tint I've bought a 2nd bottle of is Fresh Blood.
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Jun 29, 2014 06:35
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signalnoise posted:I'm not sure how I feel about this Is that Dreadball? Do they come with translucent bases like that? If so, that's kind of...different. But yeah, a little less glue would have helped.
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Jun 29, 2014 08:57
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AndyElusive posted:Is that Dreadball? Do they come with translucent bases like that? If so, that's kind of...different. Also, pinning.
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Jun 29, 2014 09:06
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Not exactly miniature painting, but in the same ballpark. I finally got a chance to work with my terrain paint from GameDecor.  On the far left are unpainted Dwarven Forge tiles. The next three in each row show the progression from base coat to the two build-up coats. Top is Field Stone and the bottom is Cavern Stone.
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Jun 29, 2014 11:31
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AndyElusive posted:Is that Dreadball? Do they come with translucent bases like that? If so, that's kind of...different. They come with clear plastic bases with space for a little integrated disc base to slot in. I hate the look of it, so I got some acrylic hexes made up.
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Jun 29, 2014 13:47
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What do you guys use when you have to transport your brushes? I usually just use the plastic caps that come with the brush, but I've heard people advise against it, because it might damage them. I've seen pictures of some sort of roll-up case, but not sure if that can replace the caps.
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Jun 29, 2014 18:13
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Unless your brushes are being bashed around enough to snap them in half, they will be fine with just the cap on
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Jun 29, 2014 18:58
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I think it was the act of placing the cap on the brush some other poster was worried about. It hasn't really been an issue for me, but I would like to hear what people do when they have to transport their brushes anyway.
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Jun 29, 2014 19:02
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That some other poster should probably stop getting people worried over nothing then To answer your question, I put the cap on carefully and throw them in the back pocket of my rucksack
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Jun 29, 2014 19:19
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TheBlobThing posted:I think it was the act of placing the cap on the brush some other poster was worried about. It hasn't really been an issue for me, but I would like to hear what people do when they have to transport their brushes anyway. I studied calligraphy once, and my teacher considered it a mortal sin to put the plastic cap back on a brush. She was completely horrified when she saw me do it once. So I guess it's bad? I think the problem is that moisture left in the brush won't evaporate in the same way, so that it stays in the brush instead and ruins the fibers over time. If that is the case, then you should avoid storing your brushes between painting with the cap on. I don't figure that there's a likelyhood that your brush will be immediately ruined from being carried in a bag back and forth from the club with the cap on. Personally I have used various methods such as fixing them to a bit of cardboard with scotch tape and similar, but finally decided to get a "proper" artists bag for brushes. It's kind of like this one: http://www.kokotools.com/productshow.asp?ID=429 There are tons of similar bags for make-up brushes, so if you can't find one in your local art shop (you should be able to find one in your local art shop), you can look in a make-up store. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Jun 30, 2014 |
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Jun 30, 2014 14:35
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Artists tend to get stuck in their ways, for good or bad, so I would guess your art teacher probably just wasn't one of the cap-using crowd... But I don't see why this would be an issue. If you rinse your brush, don't let paint dry up near the ferrule and use brush soap when you're finished, a bit of moisture shouldn't be a horrible thing. I have a big cup of brushes and I stand the brushes on end, which (if I'm really feeling anal) isn't a good thing because moisture can seep into the glue holding the bristles in the ferrule, right? So you'd think the brushes should be stored bristle-end down, but I'm not losing brush hairs anywhere so I'm not worried about it. Even in a brush case the brushes can get bounced around and the hairs bunched up... in the end the brushes are a 'wear item', like brake pads on a car, so yes get the best you can afford and take care of them as much as you can, but you're eventually going to have to replace them.
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Jun 30, 2014 14:47
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krushgroove posted:I have a big cup of brushes and I stand the brushes on end, which (if I'm really feeling anal) isn't a good thing because moisture can seep into the glue holding the bristles in the ferrule, right? So you'd think the brushes should be stored bristle-end down, ...which is why calligraphy brushes have a noose at the end, so that you can hang them up. But I agree, I don't plan to attach small nooses to all my brushes just so that I can hang them up any time soon. Buying new brushes is far from my largest expense in this hobby as it is.
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Jun 30, 2014 14:55
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Ah, did not know that about calligraphy brushes! Pretty cool.
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Jun 30, 2014 15:08
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Thanks for the feedback on the Blood Bowl orc a page or so back, I'll add some numbers and stuff to the team shoulder pads as suggested. Quick question having never used Green Stuff before - if I'm putting some on a base then putting a metal miniature on top, should I be glueing anything to anything or just let the Green Stuff stick itself and the mini to the base?
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Jun 30, 2014 15:22
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I dont think i've ever used brush soap on any of my brushes. And i put the caps on. Not had a problem.
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Jun 30, 2014 15:59
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Tenterhooks posted:Thanks for the feedback on the Blood Bowl orc a page or so back, I'll add some numbers and stuff to the team shoulder pads as suggested. Quick question having never used Green Stuff before - if I'm putting some on a base then putting a metal miniature on top, should I be glueing anything to anything or just let the Green Stuff stick itself and the mini to the base? Green stuff alone is pretty strong. It gets really strong if you add super glue as well, but you probably don't have to. Green stuff + super glue is an old and trusted recipe for metal miniatures, when a glue bond alone is not strong enough.
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Jun 30, 2014 18:20
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Cross posting dem hedgerows. LumberingTroll posted:Well, this weekend I worked on some hedgerows.
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Jun 30, 2014 21:12
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