|
Brakes make a grinding noise when they're working normally. The pads just rub a bit.
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 22:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 04:13 |
|
|
Well, the previously orange backing plates of the pads are now red. Not sure if that's bad. The wheel won't spin a full rotation on its own easily. I've only ridden it like two miles since I changed the pads and hose, too.
M42 fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jun 26, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 22:55
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:I have a trackday on saturday and the GSXR750 made a weird noise when priming a couple of days ago then acted fine... a day later the thing bogged on a cold start and popped on off throttle more than normal, and otherwise the thing seems to have more engine braking than normal. Should I try replacing the fuel pump before Saturday? This sounds to me like your exup valve or equivalent thereof, if any, is faulty and sticking half shut. If it doesn't have one of those I'd inspect the throttle linkage for normal operation then look into the fuel pump like you say. More engine braking to me implies a mechanical issue with intake/exhaust; a faulty fuel pump wouldn't have any effect one way or another.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 23:29
|
|
|
M42 posted:Well, the previously orange backing plates of the pads are now red. Not sure if that's bad. The wheel won't spin a full rotation on its own easily. I've only ridden it like two miles since I changed the pads and hose, too. That's usually normal for them to change color a bit. What I would do is wait until the rotors are cold, then ride around the block without using the front brake, and then carefully touch the rotor to see if it has warmed at all. If it has, then you need to strip and clean the brakes - if it hasn't, it's just normal. Less than one full rotation with the caliper mounted is pretty normal, nothing that immediately makes me concerned.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 01:26
|
|
|
M. Night Skymall posted:Do I need to pull both spark plugs and set my engine to TDC to remove the cam chain tensioner? Doesn't seem like it should matter. I just want to replace the gasket trying to work out where I'm leaking oil. What kind of bike do you have? It's probably not necessary, but if something moves it's nice to know you're at a reference point and know where everything should be.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 02:13
|
|
|
Z3n posted:That's usually normal for them to change color a bit. What I would do is wait until the rotors are cold, then ride around the block without using the front brake, and then carefully touch the rotor to see if it has warmed at all. If it has, then you need to strip and clean the brakes - if it hasn't, it's just normal. Alright! I'll try that tomorrow, thanks a bunch man!
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 02:51
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:This sounds to me like your exup valve or equivalent thereof, if any, is faulty and sticking half shut. If it doesn't have one of those I'd inspect the throttle linkage for normal operation then look into the fuel pump like you say. More engine braking to me implies a mechanical issue with intake/exhaust; a faulty fuel pump wouldn't have any effect one way or another. It has a full Yosh system on it now so no exup and the ECU has been flashed to disable the EXUP servo, raise the rev limit, etc. Throttle works normally and the secondary butterflies seem to operate fine. I figured a bad fuel pump could make the thing run leaner than it already does in abrupt off throttle situations causing it to pop more and engine brake more. Maybe it's time to check the valve clearances - it just hit 35k.  We'll see how it acts tonight.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 04:50
|
|
|
A friend of mine has a GSXR 750 that had a pinched wire leading to the tipover sensor that would randomly cut the fuel pump on and off causing all sorts of popping and weird issues. Maybe have a look in the direction? I think it's under the tail somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 05:33
|
|
|
I replaced the entire wiring harness and ECU on this bike because water had gotten into the ECU connector and caused intermittent issues. Clutch sensor isn't bypassed. Blahhhh, I'm going to go ride it tonight and see if it's acting normal before I either crash from a mechanical or blow the bike up at the track again.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 05:43
|
|
|
How important are the plugs over the pilot jets in my 83 gs750e? I took them out, replaced the jets and cleaned everything, but they dried out and shrank and don't stay in the plug hole. Will they expand once they get soaked with gas again, or do I need new ones?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 05:59
|
|
|
red19fire posted:How important are the plugs over the pilot jets in my 83 gs750e? I took them out, replaced the jets and cleaned everything, but they dried out and shrank and don't stay in the plug hole. Will they expand once they get soaked with gas again, or do I need new ones? You'll be fine without them. I'm certian they cause the pilots to draw fuel with some air mixed in.. but.. I can't really say I've seen a difference with or without them installed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 06:06
|
|
|
slidebite posted:What kind of bike do you have? It's probably not necessary, but if something moves it's nice to know you're at a reference point and know where everything should be. The issue I had is that whatever it was at put the chain under a lot of tension, I guess? It was incredibly difficult to get the cam chain tensioner back in. Took like 1-2 hours longer to get the CCT back in compared to having it at TDC. If your CCT is easily accessed I don't think it'd be an issue, but trying to bolt something in that's actively pushing against you, that you can't see, with 1 hand, is incredibly frustrating. On the plus side I seem to have fixed my oil leak so loving whatever, least it's done.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 06:15
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:You'll be fine without them. I'm certian they cause the pilots to draw fuel with some air mixed in.. but.. I can't really say I've seen a difference with or without them installed. I used thread locker to hold them in place until they swell back up. Hopefully that works 
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 07:16
|
|
|
M. Night Skymall posted:The issue I had is that whatever it was at put the chain under a lot of tension, I guess? It was incredibly difficult to get the cam chain tensioner back in. Took like 1-2 hours longer to get the CCT back in compared to having it at TDC. If your CCT is easily accessed I don't think it'd be an issue, but trying to bolt something in that's actively pushing against you, that you can't see, with 1 hand, is incredibly frustrating. On the plus side I seem to have fixed my oil leak so loving whatever, least it's done. You made sure that it was retracted when installed, right?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 07:53
|
|
|
Z3n posted:You made sure that it was retracted when installed, right? Yeah, this is my second time installing them this week, but it definitely had to be pushed in really hard, and I don't remember doing that when I re-installed them after my valve adjustment. Also even once I managed to get the bolts on the sides threaded in getting the tension bolt with the spring on there was a complete nightmare, had to compress the spring a lot. I don't know enough about how the CCT/timing stuff works to know what was going on but the whole thing felt a lot different than when I did it all at TDC a couple days ago. Bike started up/idled fine though so it doesn't seem like it affected anything other than making it really annoying to install. Also getting the gasket off it was a real bitch, spent forever scraping at it. Anything work for that? I tried kerosene and brake cleaner but they had basically no impact on the bits of gasket still stuck to it, just had to slowly scrape it off with a razor blade and try not to mar the surface. M. Night Skymall fucked around with this message at 08:10 on Jun 27, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 08:07
|
|
|
At non-tdc one or both of the cams will be rocking against the valve springs. When you're trying to push the tensioner in you're essentially trying to turn the cams against the valve springs, which takes strong spanner-pull levels of force. At TDC the cams are neatly perched with all the spring pressures in balance against the lobes. It's kind of like doing a cambelt on a car; if it isn't at TDC when you take the belt off, the cam will immediately spring a quarter turn away from wherever you had it because some lobes have more spring pressure than others, making the cam want to turn away from the pressure. At TDC the cam sits still without needing any external force to hold it in place. When you took the tensioner out with the cams not at TDC, they would've rotated somewhat and taken all the 'slack' out of the tensioner-side length of chain.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 08:12
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:At TDC the cam sits still without needing any external force to hold it in place. This is highly engine/cam profile specific. I've worked on more than one engine where the cam gears liked to rotate a few teeth in one direction or the other from TDC once the timing belt was off; you'd have to manually line both gears back up with the timing alignment marks when slipping the belt back on.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 08:59
|
|
|
Yes, but a couple of teeth wouldn't be noticeable when you're installing a new chain tensioner. The cams both turning 90 degrees and taking all the slack out of the chain would do exactly what he described, however. I know it isn't bike related but I've done quite literally hundreds of cambelts on all sorts of vehicles and I've only run into cams that won't sit still once or twice, usually on the off-bank on v-engines. It can often be very difficult to position the cams just-so, and sometimes a stiff breeze can bump them off the tipping point and cause them to turn, but it's pretty rare to run into one where they just absolutely refuse to sit still at the TDC position. Two or three teeth off sometimes happens but, again, wouldn't cause his problem.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 09:33
|
|
|
Re: brakes, I rode like 3 miles without touching the front, rotor was just very slightly warm. Little enough that I think it was from the sun and not dragging pads. In other news, riding without using the front is goddamn hard.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 15:05
|
|
|
M42 posted:Re: brakes, I rode like 3 miles without touching the front, rotor was just very slightly warm. Little enough that I think it was from the sun and not dragging pads. Well you obviously need to learn not to rely on the Layer Dan(tm) lever, you see. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 15:51
|
|
|
M42 posted:In other news, riding without using the front is goddamn hard. It's like driving a lovely car!
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 15:52
|
|
|
M42 posted:Re: brakes, I rode like 3 miles without touching the front, rotor was just very slightly warm. Little enough that I think it was from the sun and not dragging pads. It's pretty good practice, really. The best time to learn how to do most things is before, not after, you really really really need to know how to do them.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 16:23
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:It's pretty good practice, really. The best time to learn how to do most things is before, not after, you really really really need to know how to do them. See also: Shifting with a broken clutch cable.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 18:04
|
|
|
Am I the only one that has a second clutch cable alongside my current one, lubed, taped, and tucked away (softballing that one in) for use when mine inevitably breaks on the way to work when I'm already 10 minutes late during the one rainstorm Phoenix gets a year? I mean, broken throttle? I'm sitting right on the carburetor, that's easy. Broken clutch cable? gently caress that's annoying.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 18:10
|
|
|
I hate the rear brake on my DRZ. It seems like it locks with barely any effort and all of a sudden I'm fishtailing. It is fun and cool looking and all, but drat it probably isn't a good habit.Z3n posted:See also: Shifting with a broken clutch cable.  How do you do that?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 20:19
|
|
|
Adjust your rear brake pedal and get more travel in it. My bike's rear end locks up like crazy on the worn cement roads here when it's at stock, so I added a few extra millimeters of travel and it's far better behaved now, particularly when it's chilly out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 20:23
|
|
|
Kilersquirrel posted:Adjust your rear brake pedal and get more travel in it. My bike's rear end locks up like crazy on the worn cement roads here when it's at stock, so I added a few extra millimeters of travel and it's far better behaved now, particularly when it's chilly out. Good tip. I just got the service manual for my bike and I'm swapping out the engine this week, so that seems like the perfect project.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 20:29
|
|
|
Chichevache posted:
Bike gearboxes are dog-boxes. They don't have synchros, they have dog-gears that physically move and have little posts that click into corresponding holes on the ratio gears, one for each pair of gears. So you have 1-2, 3-4 and 5-6 (if you have sixth). This is exactly the same design as a sequential manual in a racing car. You don't actually need a clutch to change gear, all you need is for torque flow to be interrupted momentarily. This takes the pressure off the gears (same as pulling the clutch in) and allows just enough time for a dog gear to slip out of it's current gear and pop into the opposing gear (or for another dog to pop into another gear still, if you're going from second to third, for example. You can interrupt torque flow by momentarily jumping off the gas. In the split second where the engine's torque has slacked off on the gears but before the rear wheel starts to apply torque in the opposite direction (engine braking) you click the gear lever up and it changes gear seamlessly. Likewise a tiny blip of the throttle lets you change down when engine braking. Do this: Ride your bike in second gear. Give it a fair bit of gas, then while accelerating, momentarily cut the throttle and in the same moment bump the gear-lever up. It'll change gear like magic. A quickshifter does this for you by having a switch in the gear linkage which cuts off the ignition momentarily when you push up on the lever so you don't have to faff around with the throttle. It doesn't hurt the bike and actually reduces clutch wear because you aren't riding the clutch at a million RPM on a 150hp bike (not applicable to you but still). After a bit of practice you can learn to do it perfectly. Your mileage may vary as some bikes are more cantankerous than others and throttle response is different on different bikes. It's possible to do this with every gear change, up and down. Starting from a stop with no clutch is trickier 
Slavvy fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jun 27, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 21:36
|
|
|
My bike's rear brake has BMW's "hydraulic assist" which means it comes slamming on unless I'm really careful.M42 posted:Looks like my front brake pistons are a little sticky. There's a grinding noise when I spin the wheel - not in one spot, over the entire rotation. Brake still works fine, it's just like a mm too compressed. What's the best way to clean them? Take the caliper off the fork, remove brake pads, brake cleaner on the piston sides, then push them back in? The sides weren't scored, but I didn't clean them too thoroughly when replacing my pads. I had the same issue after a tire change. I got to the point of taking off the calipers completely and after that didn't produce any change, I took it to a local independent shop. They said, it's fine, just ride it. Sure enough, after a few weeks, the wheel spun relatively freely on the center stand and no issues.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 22:07
|
|
|
Chichevache posted:I hate the rear brake on my DRZ. It seems like it locks with barely any effort and all of a sudden I'm fishtailing. It is fun and cool looking and all, but drat it probably isn't a good habit. Look up clutchless (up and down) shifting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 22:21
|
|
|
KARMA! posted:Look up clutchless (up and down) shifting. Slavvy posted:Perfect explanation of clutchless shifting 
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 22:29
|
|
|
I meant on youtube. I'm so sorry. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 22:30
|
|
|
Current Rims: Rear: 2.15x18 Front: 1.85x19 Current Tires: Rear: 110/90x18 TL Front: 100/90x19 TL I want to put a 60(S)/40(Dirt) dual-sport on both, probably a Kenda K784 for the front. Now, in the rear there is nothing that matches the current specs, I can't find a drat thing that matches except for street slicks. Can I put an 80 aspect on the rear with a 90 on the front? Can I put a front tire on the rear? Am I just hosed for tire selection on this 36 year old piece of poo poo moneypit? KARMA! posted:Look up clutchless (up and down) shifting. I haven't touched my clutch all year, it's beautiful. Rime fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jun 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 02:15
|
|
|
Rime posted:I haven't touched my clutch all year, it's beautiful. For a second I thought you were Razzled and it was because it was still embedded in your mailbox.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 02:42
|
|
|
Chiche noooooo
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 03:01
|
|
|
I'm in the process of removing the engine of a DRZ and I am currently trying to get the engine sprocket nut off. The problem is the nut is like a loving inch across. I tried using a monkey wrench but no luck. Is there any trick to this besides just buying the biggest socket wrench I can find?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 03:17
|
|
|
Go to Harbor Freight and get a cheap impact socket. If HF doesn't have the correct size go to sears - someone should. Often on bigger nuts like that you can get away with using a socket a few mm too large as long as it still contacts each face of the nut nicely. I only say that because sometimes you can only find a much larger size and not the size you'll need - it'll do in a pinch I suppose. Also, make sure the lock washer is off in case you didn't push it aside yet.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 03:23
|
|
|
Pete Carroll posted:I'm in the process of removing the engine of a DRZ and I am currently trying to get the engine sprocket nut off. The problem is the nut is like a loving inch across. I tried using a monkey wrench but no luck. Is there any trick to this besides just buying the biggest socket wrench I can find? I bought a 30mm(I think, I'm at work so I can't check what I have) impact socket from a Napa autoparts and stuck it on a bigass torque wrench that I got from Harbor Freight. Maybe $30 total. I just sit on the bike, put it in first, mash the rear brake, and break the nut loose like that. Same thing to tighten it to spec. e: Don't gently caress up and remove your chain before doing this! Marxalot fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Jun 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 03:25
|
|
|
I 26mm impact socket is very handy to have.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 03:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 04:13 |
|
|
Marxalot posted:I bought a 30mm(I think, I'm at work so I can't check what I have) impact socket from a Napa autoparts and stuck it on a bigass torque wrench that I got from Harbor Freight. Maybe $30 total. This torque wrench look good to you? http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-239.html It'll be nice to finally know how much I've been over tightening everything by.  Also, why do I need to take off the chain? This is my first time doing any real engine work so I'm literally doing this by the book (Suzuki service manual) and they make no mention of it. I'm a bit cash strapped and I don't feel like buying a chain breaking tool right now. Baller Witness Bro posted:Go to Harbor Freight and get a cheap impact socket. If HF doesn't have the correct size go to sears - someone should. Often on bigger nuts like that you can get away with using a socket a few mm too large as long as it still contacts each face of the nut nicely. I only say that because sometimes you can only find a much larger size and not the size you'll need - it'll do in a pinch I suppose. Lock washer? How can I get that off before removing the nut? While I'm doing all this- and waiting for my new engine to arrive- is there any harm in wiping clean every piece of the bike that I take off? I'm a little worried since the thing hasn't been cleaned in ages and I half expect rust to be the only thing holding bits together.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 03:37
|
|