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Ignoarints posted:Hmmm I should do that. Especially when I get my second radiator for the GPU. That's a cool computer man!!
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Jun 28, 2014 20:05
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1gnoirents posted:That's a cool computer man!!  Did you register just to mildly mock ignorants?Edit: and now I mildly mocked him with the unintentional misspelling.
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Jun 28, 2014 23:05
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I accidentally banned my account with a thread tag and I don't have access to whatever email I used to register that account 6 years ago now. Which is the same thing that happened with my first account from like 2004. 
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Jun 28, 2014 23:51
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Don Lapre posted:God drat, I wish I had gone with a front mount radiator all this time. Gets fresh air, doesnt block the VRM's, doesnt' get residual heat off video cards or other components. Need to order a couple more f12's though so i can throw those sp120's back in the box. this is cool I respect it
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Jun 29, 2014 02:33
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSllkFWVhJI&t=109s
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Jun 29, 2014 07:10
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OK so you guys have highlighted the importance of a decent case. I have a decent computes but as far as cooling and fans go.. I not so worried about overclocking (well I didn't get intel K processor so I can't) but I want cool case. For a cool mother fucker http://www.dragonpc.co.nz/p.aspx?261964 I heard someone say something about how the PSU should be at the bottom? is that important? I have MATX mobo but should you get regular ATX case for extra room?
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Jun 29, 2014 07:38
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The Parts-Picking thread has some good case recommendations, but if you just want something nice and roomy look at Fractal Design and Bitfenix cases. Silverstone stuff is fine as well, and apparently Phanteks makes nice cases with really godawful names. A mATX board will fit in an ATX case no problem if you need more drive slots or room for a later ATX board or whatever, but don't get anything bigger than a midtower case as they're close in size to old-style full tower cases nowadays. future ghost fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Jun 29, 2014 |
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Jun 29, 2014 08:39
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I guess what I'm saying is that some of you guys have fans pointing out the bottom and other stuff. Is that only necessary for overclocking? I just wanna keep it cool. I mean I idle at 32 and hit mid 60s tops so I'm not worried.. I remember when I first installed my X2 620 years ago and it idled at 18, but that's beside the point. I just wanna be cool
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Jun 29, 2014 09:33
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echinopsis posted:I mean I idle at 32 and hit mid 60s tops so I'm not worried.. If you had a cpu in the past that claimed to idle at 18c that was an inaccurate reading. 18c is 64f. So unless you were using the computer in a room that was like 55f ambient air temp, nope. Your cpu has to be at least slightly warmer than room temp. It could only go down to the same temp as room temp if it was cooled with 100% efficiency (impossible) and the idea of the cpu being cooler than room temp is of course absolute nonsense.
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Jun 29, 2014 15:25
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Col.Kiwi posted:It could only go down to the same temp as room temp if it was cooled with 100% efficiency (impossible) and the idea of the cpu being cooler than room temp is of course absolute nonsense.
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Jun 29, 2014 18:26
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I feel like these kind of heat spreaders do poo poo all when populating all DIMMs: Since there's practically zero space between the DIMMs with the spreaders, I feel like the ram is better off with the spreaders removed. So should I remove them? All 4 DIMMs populated.
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Jun 30, 2014 02:12
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Shaocaholica posted:I feel like these kind of heat spreaders do poo poo all when populating all DIMMs: Unless you're seriously over-volting them for some reason, there's no chance you'll notice any difference, so just leave them on unless you really hate the way they look or something.
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Jun 30, 2014 02:30
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Shaocaholica posted:I feel like these kind of heat spreaders do poo poo all when populating all DIMMs: If they are factory installed you should really leave them be  If anything they will help dissipate some heat even though ddr3 doesn't really need it. There is nothing to gain from removing them unless you had some giant heatsink that doesn't fit otherwise.
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Jun 30, 2014 02:44
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Well I removed them. They were the single strip of thermal tape kind. Crucial ballistix DDR2-800 on an older machine. I just felt that with them on and with all the DIMMs filled there was very little room between sticks for air to flow.
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Jun 30, 2014 02:50
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I thought DDR2 Ballistix ran at like 2.2v or something? I remember reading a lot of reports about them dying from minor overvoltage over stock. Probably worth checking them with an IR thermometer at least since they might actually run a little warm at that voltage. No ideal if the heat spreader would actually make a different though.
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Jun 30, 2014 08:43
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The sticker says 2.0V but I'm running it in a Dell so I'm not sure what voltage its actually getting. Its also rated at CL4 but memtest is reporting CL5 set so maybe the voltage is different too. Been running prime95 for the last 4 hours with bigmem on and no errors yet. DIMM 1 is not terribly hot to the touch. The northbridge is pretty hot though but I think thats normal. Its also got fresh NT-H1 as well. Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Jun 30, 2014 |
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Jun 30, 2014 08:51
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Col.Kiwi posted:No offense but sometimes I feel like posts from this come from people who don't have a good feel of the relationship between C and F and are used to "thinking in F." Guess what country I live in, "Col.Kiwi"....... But yeah I guess I should be happy. Maybe I will just will myself to be.. 
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Jun 30, 2014 08:56
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Don Lapre posted:If they are factory installed you should really leave them be 
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Jun 30, 2014 14:38
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The heat spreaders for DIMMs also provide EMI shielding, improving signal-to-noise ratio and thus stable overclockability. It's not a big deal for stock speeds, but you only lose potential performance and reliability by removing heat spreaders.
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Jun 30, 2014 20:26
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Better delid method for people who dont want to use a hammer on their cpu or a razor blade   Just did all these chips in seconds. Also, dat loving soldered chip with the bare copper. Do this again intel. Don Lapre fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Jul 1, 2014 |
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Jul 1, 2014 14:54
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I was thinking of doing that but I was afraid the IHS might scrape off some of the surface-mount components. Vice, block of wood and hammer worked for me though.
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Jul 1, 2014 16:34
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Zero VGS posted:I was thinking of doing that but I was afraid the IHS might scrape off some of the surface-mount components. Vice, block of wood and hammer worked for me though. Shouldn't anymore than the block of wood and hammer. Its effectively doing the same thing just more controlled with vice only.
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Jul 1, 2014 16:38
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Nice, once the "seal" is cracked you can just pull it off anyways by hand for ultra safety. Problem was mine was simply now going to come off that way there was an absurd amount of glue. For what it's worth the razor blade way was actually not all that hair raising or difficult, but I didn't want to have to do it.
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Jul 1, 2014 16:44
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I bought a vice and hammer to delid my 4770K and couldn't get it to work, so ended up just using a razor (or rather, X-Acto knife). Worked fine.
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Jul 1, 2014 17:08
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Looks like I would be delidding that cpu if I did get it. Someone got 5.5 ghz on air from a quick headline bit I read (dont know the circumstances) after delidding
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Jul 1, 2014 17:52
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1gnoirents posted:Looks like I would be delidding that cpu if I did get it. Someone got 5.5 ghz on air from a quick headline bit I read (dont know the circumstances) after delidding Well they hit 5.5ghz at that overclocking competition. But I think they had something like 30 cpu's to work with.
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Jul 1, 2014 17:58
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Don Lapre posted:Well they hit 5.5ghz at that overclocking competition. But I think they had something like 30 cpu's to work with. Yeah that always gets me. Intel sponsored overclocking competition to usher in their new product. First thing contestants do, delid everything. Intel PR: Check out these 5.5Ghz CPUs! Intel laywer: *warranty void if you delid* Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Jul 1, 2014 |
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Jul 1, 2014 18:22
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I suspect that the cpu's intel supplied, despite being "stock", would be quite hard to buy normally. having met much more stringent qc than usual. E. Question for delidders: are the cores and whatever they are in flush, or is there space under them? was wondering how sensible using the surrounding area with a gasket as the base while liquid cooling. Or am I still crazy. staberind fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Jul 1, 2014 |
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Jul 1, 2014 18:46
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Shaocaholica posted:Yeah that always gets me. Intel sponsored overclocking competition to usher in their new product. First thing contestants do, delid everything. Not only that, I am pretty sure they pre-selected golden CPUs before handing them out, there has been exactly zero reviewers post-launch that have hit even 5GHz stable.
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Jul 1, 2014 19:00
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staberind posted:E. Question for delidders: are the cores and whatever they are in flush, or is there space under them? was wondering how sensible using the surrounding area with a gasket as the base while liquid cooling. Starting with Haswell there are surface mount micro components. 
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Jul 1, 2014 19:11
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Shaocaholica posted:Starting with Haswell there are surface mount micro components. Ah, super, this is exactly what I wanted to see, I'll be starting with an LGA2011 (Maximus IV is the best board I have atm.), But eventually I'll try to get a Haswell. Essentially, If I use a non-conductive liquid, even with surface mounts, it should be safe enough, my worry was mineral oil or whatever puking out underneath the cpu's pcb.
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Jul 1, 2014 19:24
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staberind posted:Ah, super, this is exactly what I wanted to see, I'll be starting with an LGA2011 (Maximus IV is the best board I have atm.), But eventually I'll try to get a Haswell. If you use clu put nail polish over that spot. If gelid extreme you are safe as is.
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Jul 1, 2014 19:29
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I just bought some new ram today. 2x8 gb Corsair Vengeance LP at 1600 Mhz. My old ram was 3x2 gb Corsair XMS 3 at 1333Mhz. Both the new and old one are at 1.5V. The ram works great but my only problem is that the ram sits at 1066 Mhz instead of 1600 Mhz. I have an Asus P6T Deluxe V2 motherboard. Apparently it is an easy fix for somebody not scared shitless by the BIOS.  (page 87 in the pdf) Link to the full manual. http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1366/P6T_Deluxe_V2/E4398_P6T_Deluxe.pdf I read the OP saying that you should enable XMP but everything seems to refer to Sandy Brige. I have an i7 920, the generation that came out before Sandy Bridge. Checking the DRAM Frequency option in there (also shown in the picture I posted) I saw an option to change it from auto to 1600 Mhz but will the voltage change to 1.5V on its own? Since when I looked around at the auto settings, it seems to default to 1.1V? There are a million dram voltage settings. Some help would be greatly appreciated.
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Jul 1, 2014 23:24
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Torabi posted:I just bought some new ram today. 2x8 gb Corsair Vengeance LP at 1600 Mhz. My old ram was 3x2 gb Corsair XMS 3 at 1333Mhz. Both the new and old one are at 1.5V. Set that first setting to 1600 mhz. I don't know why but I can't see your picture now that I hit reply, but you can set your voltage too if it requires that as well to actually run 1.5v. Then you want to check your timings in Windows see if it took care of that on its own with CPUz or similar 1gnoirents fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jul 2, 2014 |
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Jul 2, 2014 01:14
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Just delidded my 4790k. Dropped 14c using gelid extreme between die and ihs and on ihs and heatsink.
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Jul 2, 2014 02:40
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Don Lapre posted:Just delidded my 4790k. Dropped 14c using gelid extreme between die and ihs and on ihs and heatsink. 4.8 @ 1.263 and now a 14 degree drop ... jealous. What can I get you to do to push that to 1.35 and get 5.0 ghz :P
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Jul 2, 2014 03:16
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I can't do more than a few ibts at 1.4v/5ghz. I'll have to figure out other settings to adjust. Haswell is complicated.
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Jul 2, 2014 03:22
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Don Lapre posted:Just delidded my 4790k. Dropped 14c using gelid extreme between die and ihs and on ihs and heatsink. Proof really that Intel wasn't serious about making the 4790K the best it could be. To Intel: bring back the solder and stop loving around. Love, everyone.
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Jul 2, 2014 09:08
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1gnoirents posted:Set that first setting to 1600 mhz. I don't know why but I can't see your picture now that I hit reply, but you can set your voltage too if it requires that as well to actually run 1.5v. Then you want to check your timings in Windows see if it took care of that on its own with CPUz or similar  Ok so here is a picture of one of the ram sticks in CPU-Z, it appears to be at 1.5V already so I guess I saw something else in the BIOS. So all I need to do is bump up the frequency. Just to be 100% sure, by first setting, you mean the DRAM frequency or the one that is actually first, that AI tweaker thing.
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Jul 2, 2014 12:52
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Torabi posted:
Sorry in the bios where it says "DRAM Frequency" Don Lapre posted:I can't do more than a few ibts at 1.4v/5ghz. I'll have to figure out other settings to adjust. Haswell is complicated. Raise vrin to 2.0, cache voltage to 1.2, uncore multiplier to 36 and if its stable its one of those values you can start backing down from (or up from, as far as uncore multiplier, with turbo boost off). Or do it properly of course and raise each slowly lol 1gnoirents fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Jul 2, 2014 |
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Jul 2, 2014 14:38
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