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slap me silly
Nov 1, 2009
Grimey Drawer
I'm pretty sure not. It really doesn't matter - the expense ratio on the regular funds is already quite low. Just let the admiral share thing happen in its own time.

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etalian
Mar 20, 2006

For people stuck with a Fidelity 401k make sure to check to see if the plan has the Spartan funds.

The expense ratio is very low vs the standard horrible rate and many of the Spartan US funds also pay a decent dividend as well.

Brian Fellows
May 29, 2003
I'm Brian Fellows
There's nothing wrong with Fidelity itself. Like you said, the Spartan funds are pretty awesome. My funds each have 0.05 expense ratios.

I actually like having my 401k through Fidelity. Up to this point I've only ever had Vanguard (both for IRAs and 401k), so it's cool to see all of the nifty tools and the like that Fidelity has. I actually think they're superior to Vanguard.

Vanguard definitely has a lot more great funds, and they're a lot more friendly overall with expense ratios, but there are several Fidelity funds that are on par.

If you've got a bad choice of funds to choose from, well, that has more to do with the company you work for and the benefits they're able to negotiate than with Fidelity itself. If you're a small company or if your company just bought a poor product, that's not on Fidelity.

ntan1
Apr 29, 2009

sempai noticed me

Brian Fellows posted:

I actually like having my 401k through Fidelity. Up to this point I've only ever had Vanguard (both for IRAs and 401k), so it's cool to see all of the nifty tools and the like that Fidelity has. I actually think they're superior to Vanguard.

I think every 20 or so pages there's a discussion about Fidelity versus Vanguard. Either isn't bad, but there are some small reasons why some people prefer one over the other.

I myself like Vanguard over Fidelity for two main reasons. 1) Vanguard has a better ownership structure, and isn't really incentivized to profit off of small investors. 2) Fidelity's main moneymakers have not been their Index funds, and the amount that people as a whole put into index funds is at a lower ratio than Vanguard.

Brian Fellows
May 29, 2003
I'm Brian Fellows
Yeah I agree Vanguard is better in every way, I was more taking exception to the "stuck with Fidelity" wording.

You could do much, much worse. The key is understanding what you're getting yourself into and maximizing your efficiency with what you've got to work with. I breathed a sigh of relief when I saw my new company's 401k was through Fidelity. It's definitely one of the BETTER companies to get "stuck with" more often than not thanks to their Spartan funds.

ntan1
Apr 29, 2009

sempai noticed me

Brian Fellows posted:

Yeah I agree Vanguard is better in every way, I was more taking exception to the "stuck with Fidelity" wording.

You could do much, much worse. The key is understanding what you're getting yourself into and maximizing your efficiency with what you've got to work with. I breathed a sigh of relief when I saw my new company's 401k was through Fidelity. It's definitely one of the BETTER companies to get "stuck with" more often than not thanks to their Spartan funds.

Yes, definitely :)

etalian
Mar 20, 2006

ntan1 posted:

I think every 20 or so pages there's a discussion about Fidelity versus Vanguard. Either isn't bad, but there are some small reasons why some people prefer one over the other.

I myself like Vanguard over Fidelity for two main reasons. 1) Vanguard has a better ownership structure, and isn't really incentivized to profit off of small investors. 2) Fidelity's main moneymakers have not been their Index funds, and the amount that people as a whole put into index funds is at a lower ratio than Vanguard.

Yeah Vanguard is a great company overall due to the way how it's setup and the funds other shines in things such as liquidity/tracking error/rock bottom ER costs even for average investors.



John Bogle the company founder is pretty awesome too, he doesn't have a massive compensation package, gives piles of money to charity and also is big supporter of government regulations to curb the excesses of the finance industry.

He also pretty much popularized the low cost index fund concept even though at the time people mocked his basic idea of index investing being better than a higher cost actively portfolio management.

etalian fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Jul 2, 2014

Radbot
Aug 12, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 3 years!
I got a job last year that was a major increase in income for me, and after having paid off all my debts in the first six months of working there, I decided to participate in my company's ESPP (employee stock purchase plan) at the maximum 20% rate. Long story short, I received the stock this morning and made out like a bandit - the stock went up about 15% which stacked on top of the 15% discount. All in six months.

Of course, the bastards decided to discontinue the ESPP a few weeks ago, probably because they lost their shirt on this latest round.

Anyways, I've sold it all (I'm aware of the tax implications, I just don't want to be heavily invested in my company) and will have a little over $10k in my bank account next week.

My plan is to open a Vanguard account and contribute $5,500 to a Roth IRA (I already have a Roth 401(k) through my company), with the remaining $4,500 going to a personal investment account - likely the Vanguard LifeStrategy Growth fund (80+% stock) for each.

Is this a good plan? I know market timing is a fool's errand, but I'm still anxious about making my largest single investment yet, and at the height of the market at that.

Nail Rat
Dec 29, 2000

You maniacs! You blew it up! God damn you! God damn you all to hell!!
That's why you diversify - at that asset level most likely through a target retirement fund. If the US market crashes it'll rebalance international and bond money into the now-lowered US stock.

From the sound of it you have no cash emergency fund so honestly I'd keep the last $4500 for that.

Radbot
Aug 12, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 3 years!
I honestly don't see a need for a cash emergency fund, unless I'm unemployed. Why keep cash idle when you've got $50k of credit cards available, no debt, and the ability to transfer money from your investment account to your checking account within ~1 week?

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

How do I pay my mortgage for the next 6 months after losing my job? You can't exactly throw that on a CC.

Radbot
Aug 12, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 3 years!
With the $10k that I can easily liquidate from my investment account? And you can definitely throw at least partial rent on a CC - I pay $500/mo of my rent from Amazon Payments on my Discover card every month just for the rewards.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog
Your credit card has to be repaid monthly, so you're just delaying your emergency by a month.
Your sell-the-investments plan works just fine as long as you time all your emergencies around market performance.

Nail Rat
Dec 29, 2000

You maniacs! You blew it up! God damn you! God damn you all to hell!!

Radbot posted:

I honestly don't see a need for a cash emergency fund, unless I'm unemployed.

Unfortunately then it's too late.

Also, if you break both your legs in an awful car crash(or both your arms if you're going to say "well I can just work from home :haw: " ), disability payments through your work will last for a certain amount of time and be limited to a certain percentage of your salary. Emergency funds are good for that kind of situation. Life is full of poo poo you didn't plan for.

Grope-A-Matic
Nov 16, 2008

sigh... you really suck at hand
to hand combat i wont lie and
this is way more challenging
then i thought it would be. to
teach you hand to hand combat,
alright i will try to teach you
some more hand to hand combat
I'm just starting out investing, so I figured I'd run my ideas by you guys first.

I'm 24 with a full time job earning ~50k/year. Right now I'm putting 11% away into a 401k (I work for a small company with no employer match). I have about $68k in student loan debt (because I was stupid and went to a private school for grad school), and since I'm on the 10-year repayment plan, my payments amount to ~950/mo. On top of that, I have health care through the exchange so I pay ~250/mo. Fortunately, I live with my folks so I don't have to pay for rent or food. After personal expenses, I usually end up putting $1000-1200 into savings each month. Right now, I have $34k between my checking and savings accounts.

My three main priorities right now are: 1) Paying off student loans, 2) Saving up for a down payment to buy a house or a condo, and 3) Putting money away for retirement. For #1, most of my loans are at 6.55%. However, I do have one loan (which is my largest single loan) for $12.2k at 7.65%. If I were to use my savings to pay that one off now, my loan payments would drop by $222.11 per month. That gives it a simple payback of 4.6 years. Paying off any of the other loans in one shot would have a simple payback of over 6 years. Do you think paying off the big loan now (at the cost of $12.2k I could be investing) is a decent idea?

As for #2, I feel the best way to accomplish this is to wipe out my student loans so I can start putting away more of my paycheck.

#3 is the other area where I'd like some advice. Right now, my company uses Austin Capital for our 401k, and the plans they offer us are ridiculously lovely--I'm talking expense rates of between 1.69 and 2.3% for all of the funds they offered. My coworker and I are trying to convince the owner to switch to something like Vanguard. Right now I have ~$6k in my 401k; if we can convince the owner to make the switch, I'll transfer it all to a Target Date fund (if available). Otherwise, I'll probably end up rolling it over to an IRA myself. Does this seem wise?

Thank you for the help!

slap me silly
Nov 1, 2009
Grimey Drawer
Hmm, so you have about $24000 cash plus $1500/mo to work with. There's a wide range for what might be reasonable - you could probably find someone here to argue for anything from putting it all to loans (no retirement funding at all) to putting it all to retirement accounts except the loan minimums. Me, I would maybe compromise somewhere easy: pay off the 7% loan like you said; max out a Roth IRA at $460/mo; and put the other $1000/mo to loans.

How long can you stand to live with your parents? You may need to plan an exit strategy there as well... I agree with you about a house purchase - paying off the loans first may delay it a bit but will make it a lot more comfortable.

ntan1
Apr 29, 2009

sempai noticed me

Grope-A-Matic posted:

I'm just starting out investing, so I figured I'd run my ideas by you guys first.

I'm 24 with a full time job earning ~50k/year. Right now I'm putting 11% away into a 401k (I work for a small company with no employer match). I have about $68k in student loan debt (because I was stupid and went to a private school for grad school), and since I'm on the 10-year repayment plan, my payments amount to ~950/mo. On top of that, I have health care through the exchange so I pay ~250/mo. Fortunately, I live with my folks so I don't have to pay for rent or food. After personal expenses, I usually end up putting $1000-1200 into savings each month. Right now, I have $34k between my checking and savings accounts.

My three main priorities right now are: 1) Paying off student loans, 2) Saving up for a down payment to buy a house or a condo, and 3) Putting money away for retirement. For #1, most of my loans are at 6.55%. However, I do have one loan (which is my largest single loan) for $12.2k at 7.65%. If I were to use my savings to pay that one off now, my loan payments would drop by $222.11 per month. That gives it a simple payback of 4.6 years. Paying off any of the other loans in one shot would have a simple payback of over 6 years. Do you think paying off the big loan now (at the cost of $12.2k I could be investing) is a decent idea?

As for #2, I feel the best way to accomplish this is to wipe out my student loans so I can start putting away more of my paycheck.

#3 is the other area where I'd like some advice. Right now, my company uses Austin Capital for our 401k, and the plans they offer us are ridiculously lovely--I'm talking expense rates of between 1.69 and 2.3% for all of the funds they offered. My coworker and I are trying to convince the owner to switch to something like Vanguard. Right now I have ~$6k in my 401k; if we can convince the owner to make the switch, I'll transfer it all to a Target Date fund (if available). Otherwise, I'll probably end up rolling it over to an IRA myself. Does this seem wise?

Thank you for the help!

You can't move the 6k off of your 401k until you leave the company. Convincing your owner to use Vanguard or a better company would significantly help.

On the subject of loans, I would try to pay off a majority of the loans as soon as possible. A 6% or 7% guaranteed return on investment (by paying off your loans) isn't bad at all.

Vilgan
Dec 30, 2012

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Your credit card has to be repaid monthly, so you're just delaying your emergency by a month.
Your sell-the-investments plan works just fine as long as you time all your emergencies around market performance.

To play devil's advocate a bit:

I feel like people stress the importance of having an emergency fund way too much. It seems like an easy thing to point out so everyone rushes to point out that you should have 6 months, without really thinking about life circumstances.

Ways to comfortably live life without investing in a -2%/year after inflation "emergency fund":

1) Build up equity in your house, open up a HELOC and don't use it unless you lose your job or something along those lines
2) Have a spouse with a job and expenses such that you would BOTH need to lose your job for it to be a problem
3) Keep some funds in a short term bond fund. It is unlikely to tank very much and at least it should almost keep up with inflation.
4) Have a job that you are supremely confident that finding another job is trivial, even in a terrible economy (Some sort of disability insurance here is good, provided by many employers)

etalian
Mar 20, 2006

Grope-A-Matic posted:

I'm just starting out investing, so I figured I'd run my ideas by you guys first.

I would also start your Roth IRA especially since your 401k doesn't have a match and also has the standard high expense funds.

Makes sense to max out your Roth while you still meet the income requirements and then focus on your 401k savings.


congrats on starting saving early.

Brian Fellows
May 29, 2003
I'm Brian Fellows

Vilgan posted:

To play devil's advocate a bit:

I feel like people stress the importance of having an emergency fund way too much. It seems like an easy thing to point out so everyone rushes to point out that you should have 6 months, without really thinking about life circumstances.

Ways to comfortably live life without investing in a -2%/year after inflation "emergency fund":

1) Build up equity in your house, open up a HELOC and don't use it unless you lose your job or something along those lines
2) Have a spouse with a job and expenses such that you would BOTH need to lose your job for it to be a problem
3) Keep some funds in a short term bond fund. It is unlikely to tank very much and at least it should almost keep up with inflation.
4) Have a job that you are supremely confident that finding another job is trivial, even in a terrible economy (Some sort of disability insurance here is good, provided by many employers)

Well yeah, but not everyone can meet all of those. I don't own a house, I don't have a spouse, and I feel like being supremely confident in your job is a terrible idea no matter what (hey, I'm a badass engineer but nothing could save me when I lived in the Detroit area in 2006).

Short term bonds or CDs, on the other hand, are totally viable for an emergency fund. Throwing it in stocks is crazy to me, but nothing wrong with bonds and CDs.

However, I think that when you're starting out saving and don't have the means to max out a Roth IRA AND have a total safety net emergency fund, it's probably smart to throw money in that Roth IRA and call that your "break the glass in case of emergency" money. Sure, it'd be a shame if you pull that money back out because you'll be forfeiting your Roth contribution for that year. But if you keep it in an emergency fund instead, you're forfeiting it anyway. And you can always pull the principal you contribute to the Roth.

You just might want to consider keeping the Roth in a mutual fund or bonds until you've built up a true standalone emergency fund.

balancedbias
May 2, 2009
$$$$$$$$$

Vilgan posted:

To play devil's advocate a bit:

I feel like people stress the importance of having an emergency fund way too much. It seems like an easy thing to point out so everyone rushes to point out that you should have 6 months, without really thinking about life circumstances.

Ways to comfortably live life without investing in a -2%/year after inflation "emergency fund":

1) Build up equity in your house, open up a HELOC and don't use it unless you lose your job or something along those lines
2) Have a spouse with a job and expenses such that you would BOTH need to lose your job for it to be a problem
3) Keep some funds in a short term bond fund. It is unlikely to tank very much and at least it should almost keep up with inflation.
4) Have a job that you are supremely confident that finding another job is trivial, even in a terrible economy (Some sort of disability insurance here is good, provided by many employers)

1- I pile this in with "keep a credit card with a high limit you don't use in a safe." It seems incredibly lazy, and it guarantees that you are paying a higher price than if you paid cash for the same item unless you repay all of it in a month.

2 - I would add that the spouse should be in an unrelated field, otherwise the layoff risk is compounded. And don't have kids. And don't get divorced.

3 - sounds good

4 - be arrogant, I guess? I mean, what the hell?

Eyes Only
May 20, 2008

Do not attempt to adjust your set.
As an individual investor there is very little reason to hold any short term bonds at all, so I take exception to #3. Savings accounts can be as much as 1% interest right now with zero risk, so buying any bond with a YTM less than that is purely irrational since the bond will come with interest rate risk. 5 year CDs are also FDIC insured and go up to 2.3% now, usually with an early withdrawal penalty of 6 months interest. It's hard to beat that with treasuries unless you go well into intermediate duration.

The short-term bond market is mainly driven by large institutions that are forced to by short-term treasuries for one reason or another.

Feral Bueller
Apr 23, 2004

Fun is important.
Nap Ghost

Vilgan posted:

To play devil's advocate a bit:

:words:

At best, these make assumptions that don't apply to a number of the people in this thread's current life circumstances and are missing the boat as to the point of this thread. At worst, they're not grounded in reality, most specifically #4. Either way, they're profoundly naive.

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X
Anyone ever hear Credit is King? No, its Cash is King. For a reason.

Job loss can make a HELOC go away, or shrink a credit card's limit, etc. It can't shrink your efund tho, until you dip into it. And it also won't need to be repaid because the efund is already yours...

I would say not everyone needs a 6mo fund, but 3mo is basically the bare minimum. Anyone who is making the decision to do less should be educated in why to have it, and be able to make their own decision. Hence, advice given to interweb strangers should be for 3-6mo in virtually every situation.

baquerd
Jul 2, 2007

by FactsAreUseless

SiGmA_X posted:

I would say not everyone needs a 6mo fund, but 3mo is basically the bare minimum. Anyone who is making the decision to do less should be educated in why to have it, and be able to make their own decision. Hence, advice given to interweb strangers should be for 3-6mo in virtually every situation.

Yep, and no matter how much you think you're kick rear end at money and managing risk and credit, not having at least one month's expenses in cash is basically asking for trouble. I personally keep 3 months and feel it's high, but my wife has a lower risk tolerance so I keep her happy with that.

rayray00
Mar 27, 2003

Capturing the moment from hair-loopies to big bellies.
So I left my job of 7 years back in mid may and was invested in their 401k plan. My new job has a pension, so I'm looking to transfer my 401k to some sort of IRA. This is all very very new to me and am trying to figure out the best option. From what I understand if I have my job cut the check directly to my chosen IRA place (still have no idea what kind of options I have) I won't get 20% withheld? I'm thinking a Roth IRA is the best bet (again no idea). I'm reading through the links and this thread, but it's a lot to wade through and pretty overwhelming. Advice would be greatly appreciated!

ExtrudeAlongCurve
Oct 21, 2010

Lambert is my Homeboy

Vilgan posted:

1) Build up equity in your house, open up a HELOC and don't use it unless you lose your job or something along those lines

I like how HELOC are still considered some sort of financial panacea that can replace a real emergency fund. Yes because paying money out of pocket for closing costs (which you will never get back), navigating red tape at a bank that is trying to sell you a product, and paying a variable interest rate on a loan is just so appealing. Hmm yes and in a true emergency surely I will have the money to pay back the HELOC every month, guaranteed.

Sure there are many, many fallbacks (loans, credit, selling organs) in a true emergency but only one has no future strings attached unless you seriously think the rate of inflation is a "terrible string to have attached."

I don't disagree that not everyone needs a full 6 month buffer but assuming you can skate by with nothing earmarked is highly optimistic.

Nail Rat
Dec 29, 2000

You maniacs! You blew it up! God damn you! God damn you all to hell!!
"Build up equity" is also not necessarily a great strategy for emergencies either since you can pay a ton of extra money on your mortgage every month and still have the value drop due to any number of unforeseen circumstances, which wouldn't allow you to get a HELOC if it takes you underwater. I'm 8k ahead on my mortgage payments but significantly underwater because it's lost 50k in value.

Grope-A-Matic
Nov 16, 2008

sigh... you really suck at hand
to hand combat i wont lie and
this is way more challenging
then i thought it would be. to
teach you hand to hand combat,
alright i will try to teach you
some more hand to hand combat

slap me silly posted:

Hmm, so you have about $24000 cash plus $1500/mo to work with. There's a wide range for what might be reasonable - you could probably find someone here to argue for anything from putting it all to loans (no retirement funding at all) to putting it all to retirement accounts except the loan minimums. Me, I would maybe compromise somewhere easy: pay off the 7% loan like you said; max out a Roth IRA at $460/mo; and put the other $1000/mo to loans.

How long can you stand to live with your parents? You may need to plan an exit strategy there as well... I agree with you about a house purchase - paying off the loans first may delay it a bit but will make it a lot more comfortable.

ntan1 posted:

You can't move the 6k off of your 401k until you leave the company. Convincing your owner to use Vanguard or a better company would significantly help.

On the subject of loans, I would try to pay off a majority of the loans as soon as possible. A 6% or 7% guaranteed return on investment (by paying off your loans) isn't bad at all.

Thank you both for the advice! I talked to my boss yesterday and she's in favor of switching away from our current plan--we're just waiting until September or October for tax reasons and because we re-upped with Austin Capital less than a year ago. I think I'm going to go ahead and pay off that big loan, roll over my current 401k to the new plan when we switch, and start contributing to a Roth. As for how long I can stand living with my parents--all of my siblings moved back in with my parents for several years as adults, so the pressure to get out and buy my own place is pretty low haha. I guess a rough goal would be to move out around two years from now--ideally, I'll have my PE license and be making a fair amount more money, and I'll have paid off one or more of my loans and brought my monthly payments to more reasonable levels.

EDIT: I talked to the coworker who's been pressing the 401k issue to my boss along with me. The company we're considering switching to is Employee Fiduciary, which focuses on 401k plans for small businesses. The rates seem to be pretty low and they offer just about any plan (including Vanguard) we want for no overhead. Just out of curiosity, is our company only allowed to have a 401k plan with one provider at any given time? For instance, could we open up a plan with Employee Fiduciary while we're still on contract with Austin Capital and just put all our contributions in the new plan while waiting for the old contract to run out? Or are there legal/contractual reasons preventing this?

Grope-A-Matic fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Jul 3, 2014

FlyWhiteBoy
Jul 13, 2004
I've done all the typical things recommend in this thread. Maxed Roth and 401k and I'm finding I have about $12k more in my emergency fund than I need. What should I do with it? I'm not yet a home owner so I don't really want to lock the money away. But at the same time I'd like to be more aggressive than bonds. Should I consider open a taxable account with Vanguard? I'd probably throw it in a far away target retirement date fund. But what would be the implications if I were to withdraw any or all of the balance?

Nail Rat
Dec 29, 2000

You maniacs! You blew it up! God damn you! God damn you all to hell!!

FlyWhiteBoy posted:

I've done all the typical things recommend in this thread. Maxed Roth and 401k and I'm finding I have about $12k more in my emergency fund than I need. What should I do with it? I'm not yet a home owner so I don't really want to lock the money away. But at the same time I'd like to be more aggressive than bonds. Should I consider open a taxable account with Vanguard? I'd probably throw it in a far away target retirement date fund. But what would be the implications if I were to withdraw any or all of the balance?

Target retirement funds aren't great for taxable accounts because whenever the fund rebalances, it's a taxable event.

flowinprose
Sep 11, 2001

Where were you? .... when they built that ladder to heaven...

Nail Rat posted:

Target retirement funds aren't great for taxable accounts because whenever the fund rebalances, it's a taxable event.

Also since it is a "fund of funds" I believe it also disallows the foreign tax credit for the international portions.

slap me silly
Nov 1, 2009
Grimey Drawer
Vanguard has a range called LifeStrategy that could be helpful. Pick your stock/bond/cash ratio based on how long you think you'll keep it in there. But if you're going to buy a house or a car in the next 3-5 years just leave it in cash.

ETB
Nov 8, 2009

Yeah, I'm that guy.

slap me silly posted:

Vanguard has a range called LifeStrategy that could be helpful. Pick your stock/bond/cash ratio based on how long you think you'll keep it in there. But if you're going to buy a house or a car in the next 3-5 years just leave it in cash.

Try and look for high interest checking accounts with your local credit unions. They might be a good place to accrue 2-3% APY while you let it sit.

Radbot
Aug 12, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 3 years!

ETB posted:

Try and look for high interest checking accounts with your local credit unions. They might be a good place to accrue 2-3% APY while you let it sit.

Where are you finding rates like those? I can't find a local CU offering better than 1% APY.

ETB
Nov 8, 2009

Yeah, I'm that guy.

Radbot posted:

Where are you finding rates like those? I can't find a local CU offering better than 1% APY.

I'm out in the PNW. Maybe our unions are cooler than yours. :v:

Radbot
Aug 12, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 3 years!

ETB posted:

I'm out in the PNW. Maybe our unions are cooler than yours. :v:

Even BECU isn't offering anything close to that.

Vilgan
Dec 30, 2012

Vilgan posted:

To play devil's advocate a bit:

I feel like people stress the importance of having an emergency fund way too much. It seems like an easy thing to point out so everyone rushes to point out that you should have 6 months, without really thinking about life circumstances.

Ways to comfortably live life without investing in a -2%/year after inflation "emergency fund":

1) Build up equity in your house, open up a HELOC and don't use it unless you lose your job or something along those lines
2) Have a spouse with a job and expenses such that you would BOTH need to lose your job for it to be a problem
3) Keep some funds in a short term bond fund. It is unlikely to tank very much and at least it should almost keep up with inflation.
4) Have a job that you are supremely confident that finding another job is trivial, even in a terrible economy (Some sort of disability insurance here is good, provided by many employers)

Quoting myself for context, since there were a variety of replies.

I think the main point I was trying to make is that there are a variety of situations where a 6 month emergency fund makes sense. But people always throw it around and keep reiterating it without any context to determine if it is appropriate. Is a single job loss or unexpected large expense going to cause a downward spiral that could make life really suck? If yes, you definitely need an emergency fund. If no, then evaluate options and figure out what your plan is in a variety of situations. Some absurdly high % of people don't have much of a buffer in life/expenses/etc and should have an emergency fund but many of them aren't worried about 401k's, investments, etc and wouldn't be in this thread anyway.

I think the main thing is: have a plan for a job loss or huge expense. Be comfortable with it. If that plan is keeping 6 months of expenses in cash, then that is a very good idea but it isn't the only way.

EugeneJ
Feb 5, 2012

by FactsAreUseless
You also have to figure how much you'd receive in unemployment and/or disability payments each month. If your expenses are low, then unemployment alone might cover it and you need less of an emergency fund.

If you have a ridiculous lifestyle with mounds of debt...you definitely need an emergency fund.

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Kinfolk Jones
Oct 31, 2010

Faaaaaaaaast
I'd like some opinions on how I currently have my 401k balanced vs what I have available to me. This is how my current 401k is set up.

pre:
Prudential High Yield Fund					10.00%	$1,567.43
T. Rowe Price Retirement Income Fund				15.00%	$1,644.87
SSgA Russell Small Cap Index Securities Lending Series Fund	10.00%	$459.48
ClearBridge Small Cap Growth Fund				20.00%	$1,948.56
Oppenheimer International Growth Fund				15.00%	$1,118.94
Franklin Mutual Global Discovery Fund				15.00%	$1,553.51
Oppenheimer Developing Markets Fund				15.00%	$1,421.94
These are my fund options.
pre:
Fund Name						Asset			Symbol	ER %
SSgA Cash Series U.S. Government Fund			Money Market-Taxable	---	0.75%
PIMCO Low Duration Fund					Short-Term Bond		PLDRX	1.05%
PIMCO Total Return Fund					Intermediate-Term Bond	PTRRX	1.10%
SSgA U.S. Bond Index Securities Lending Series Fund	Intermediate-Term Bond	---	0.72%
Prudential High Yield Fund				High Yield Bond		JDYRX	1.08%
T. Rowe Price Retirement Income Fund			Retirement Income	RRTIX	1.07%
T. Rowe Price Retirement 2010 Fund			Target Date 2000-2010	RRTAX	1.10%
T. Rowe Price Retirement 2015 Fund			Target Date 2011-2015	RRTMX	1.15%
T. Rowe Price Retirement 2020 Fund			Target Date 2016-2020	RRTBX	1.19%
T. Rowe Price Retirement 2025 Fund			Target Date 2021-2025	RRTNX	1.22%
T. Rowe Price Retirement 2030 Fund			Target Date 2026-2030	RRTCX	1.25%
T. Rowe Price Retirement 2035 Fund			Target Date 2031-2035	RRTPX	1.27%
T. Rowe Price Retirement 2040 Fund			Target Date 2036-2040	RRTDX	1.28%
T. Rowe Price Retirement 2045 Fund			Target Date 2041-2045	RRTRX	1.28%
T. Rowe Price Retirement 2050 Fund			Target Date 2046-2050	RRTFX	1.28%
T. Rowe Price Retirement 2055 Fund			Target Date 2051-2055	RRTVX	1.28%
American Century Strategic Allocation Conservative Fund	Conservative Allocation	AACRX	1.50%
BlackRock Global Allocation Fund, Inc			World Allocation	MRLOX	1.49%
Franklin Moderate Allocation Fund			Moderate Allocation	FTMRX	1.45%
BlackRock Equity Dividend Fund				Large-Cap Value		MRDVX	1.29%
SSgA S&P 500 Index Securities Lending Series Fund	Large-Cap Blend		---	0.71%
MainStay Large Cap Growth Fund				Large-Cap Growth	MLGRX	1.37%
Victory Established Value Fund				Mid-Cap Value		GETGX	1.23%
SSgA S&P MidCap Index Non-Lending Series Fund		Mid-Cap Blend		---	0.72%
Janus Enterprise Fund					Mid-Cap Growth		JDMRX	1.43%
AllianzGI NFJ Small-Cap Value Fund			Small-Cap Value		PNVRX	1.42%
SSgA Russell Small Cap Index Securities Lending Series 	Small-Cap Blend		---	0.97%
ClearBridge Small Cap Growth Fund			Small-Cap Growth	LMPOX	1.47%
AllianzGI NFJ International Value Fund			Foreign Large-Cap Value	ANJRX	1.53%
SSgA International Index Securities Lending Series Fund	Foreign Large-Cap Blend	---	0.99%
Oppenheimer International Growth Fund			Foreign Large Growth	OIGNX	1.40%
Franklin Mutual Global Discovery Fund			World Stock		TEDRX	1.52%
Oppenheimer Developing Markets Fund			Diversified Emerging 	ODVNX	1.55%
Nuveen Real Estate Securities Fund			Real Estate		FRSSX	1.53%
Am I too invested in international? Based on what the website says, I'm at 75% aggressive, 15% Growth/Income, and 10% Income. Are there any other funds in this list I should take advantage of?

Details: 27, 73k gross salary, ~7k in a Vanguard Target 2055 IRA, 25k emergency fund

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