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Ziploc posted:Surely someone has an opinion on a good pad material type. sintered front, organic/kevlar back is what I've seen recommended
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Jul 2, 2014 23:54
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 08:38 |
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Hard to go wrong with sintered. Organic pads wear out fast, but they're easier on rotors.
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Jul 3, 2014 00:09
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I've been told that sintered are best for hotter or wetter conditions and organics for no squeakiness. I put organics on my first bike and they worked out fine in central fl summer/fall. Have sintered pads on the front of my current and they kept a good bite when it was 100+ in the shade here in Texas last summer.
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Jul 3, 2014 01:20
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Got my bike back from the shop last week. Running OK... seems a little bit stuttery sometimes at mid-rpms (no tach, but especially holding it around ~50kph in... 4th?) or sometimes will start to bog down a bit going from a stop, but otherwise OK. Asked the mechanic to look at it and he didn't seem to see any problems. He also changed my oil for me (forgot to tell him I was gonna do it myself, whups). Was riding to work in the rain today (was going through some water every now and then but nothing deeper than the axles), bike was acting more or less normal. Blew some smoke off the exhaust and stuff when I started it up but kinda used to that, it had an oil leak before (which mechanic just patched, seemed to be successful, no oil under it the last few days) and rain will sometimes move it to the hot bits of the bike. I got to the higher speed road and switched lanes + started accelerating to pass some rear end in a top hat merging into mine, when the bike lost power. Engine was still running but bike wouldn't accelerate, I got back over in the left lane and pulled over. Let it idle in neutral for a minute or two, went to start out again and it was riding normally. Saw a bit of oil under it in the rain before I pulled out again but entire bottom of the frame was covered in leaked-out oil until mechanic patched the oil line recently, figured it was just a spot of old stuff he'd missed. I got on the second to last turn before work, slowed way down to make it, and the bike just died, did not want to kick back on. Got it under a covered area but there was nowhere to prop it up and check the oil properly, so I poured maybe 2-300mL in. Still didn't want to start. Walked it to work, went inside to change (really hot and sweaty in all my gear, flirting with heat stroke most likely), then back down the hill to get the bike. Noticed the killswitch was off (I'd hosed with it at my last stop, probably brushed it while pushing the bike), switched it back to ON and the bike kicked right up and ran normally. 
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Jul 3, 2014 02:24
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Nerobro posted:You have a carb boot leak. You test for this using carb cleaner. With the engine running, spray carb cleaner in the gap between the carb and the cylinder head. Keep a fire extinguisher handy. Just tried this, no real change when I sprayed each carb. It kinda wavers a bit, but if it's on too long, it just dies anyway. I'm just going to take it to a shop, this is beyond my ability level. red19fire fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Jul 3, 2014 |
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Jul 3, 2014 02:53
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Razzled posted:If that doesn't work and you're interested in a project maybe this will help: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/645097-puller-for-swingarm-bolt/ Swingarm update! I tried this trick using the 5/16s steel and not only did the steel bar get bent to a 30 degree angle, but I also stripped the nuts bare without the swingarm bolt giving a bit. I'm using the 3/8s bar now and we will see what happens, but I'm not optimistic. I'll try it right now, but I think I'm going to be going to a mechanic in the morning to get the swingarm bolt removed. Do any South Bay Area riders have a place that they would recommend to remove the swingarm bolt? Also, how much should I expect to pay a mechanic to do that?
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Jul 3, 2014 07:22
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Pete Carroll posted:Swingarm update! A large deadblow and a brass drift didn't work? How about going apeshit with PB blaster, blowtorch, and a high powered air hammer? This kind of makes me want to go and lube up my swingarm pivot bolt. e: Comedy option. Douche the inside of the pivot bolt with a bunch of LN2 for a while and see if that shocks it free or something 
Marxalot fucked around with this message at 10:34 on Jul 3, 2014 |
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Jul 3, 2014 10:28
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Marxalot posted:A large deadblow and a brass drift didn't work? How about going apeshit with PB blaster, blowtorch, and a high powered air hammer? No to the former. To the latter, I definitely do not have those and I'm not paying for them either. A shop is going to have to deal with this for me. I just destroyed the 3/8" steel bar. That loving bolt isn't going anywhere and I'm more worried about damaging the frame at this point. poo poo is stuck.
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Jul 3, 2014 10:34
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Marxalot posted:Comedy option. Douche the inside of the pivot bolt with a bunch of LN2 for a while and see if that shocks it free or something Actually, that's not a terrible idea, especially on a long tubular bolt. I've had good luck with Loctite Freeze & Release on some marine fasteners, and boy if you think your swingarm bolt is bad try 30 year old fasteners with dissimilar metals on a salt water boat.
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Jul 3, 2014 13:54
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If anyone cares I helped Marv Hushman pick up his Sportster from the repair shop last night. A new clutch was installed and the shop declared the bike roadworthy but after a 10 mile ride Marv wasn't sure. He says the bike is handling weird. Slight inputs at the handlebars result in the bike "diving." I rode it around the parking lot and it did feel weird but I'm a sport bike guy so what do I know? Marv thinks the handling issues are a result of over tightening the steering stem. My thought is to use a bike jack and raise it off the ground and see if the handlebars move left and right normally. Failing that, I don't know what to do. Does anyone have any ideas? Also Harley dealerships are hilarious. 
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Jul 3, 2014 16:44
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The bottle opener is awesome.
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Jul 3, 2014 16:52
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It's the only tool a real Harley man needs. That and a wallet full of credit cards.
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Jul 3, 2014 16:55
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If Marv wants to know he can ask his own drat self, what with being a bike owner again and all
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Jul 3, 2014 18:00
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 took the mechanic about a minute to pull the swingarm bolt and it was so easy for him that he didn't even charge me. Huge shout out to SportTech Cycles in San Jose. They were really cool about this.
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Jul 4, 2014 03:05
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Pete Carroll posted:
So how'd they do it? I'm guessing a large brass drift and a mini sledge.
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Jul 4, 2014 03:09
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You loosened the jar lid for them.
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Jul 4, 2014 03:20
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velocross posted:So how'd they do it? I'm guessing a large brass drift and a mini sledge. yes. Geirskogul posted:You loosened the jar lid for them.  sure
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Jul 4, 2014 03:22
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clutchpuck posted:The bottle opener is awesome. Maybe if it were a real wrench with a piece of steel welded into the jaws. That thing is just a cheap casting.
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Jul 4, 2014 03:49
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I'm coming close to the minimum thickness on the rotors for my 919. Good god rotors are expensive. If I wanted to go OEM or EBC I'm looking at $500 for 3 metal discs. I would go the Chinese ebay special route, but nearly all options are dumb rear end v rotors or something machined to the point of barely being a rotor. Ignoring the questionable utility of v rotors, I highly doubt any of them are actually 420 SS like every listing says. Is there anything between Chinese rotors and EBC/Galfer/Brembo/OEM in price?
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Jul 4, 2014 04:55
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Thank you all for your advice. Learning towards not taking the bike up now, maybe I'll look for a disposable two-stroke moped up there... 
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Jul 4, 2014 05:44
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astrollinthepork posted:I'm coming close to the minimum thickness on the rotors for my 919. Good god rotors are expensive. If I wanted to go OEM or EBC I'm looking at $500 for 3 metal discs. I would go the Chinese ebay special route, but nearly all options are dumb rear end v rotors or something machined to the point of barely being a rotor. Ignoring the questionable utility of v rotors, I highly doubt any of them are actually 420 SS like every listing says. Is there anything between Chinese rotors and EBC/Galfer/Brembo/OEM in price? I'd keep checking eBay for a set of factory rotors. If they are shared by some sort of sport bike there should be a lot of low mileage ones out there. Either way, a set of low mileage factory rotors will be your least expensive option and you won't have to worry about quality.
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Jul 4, 2014 06:13
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Don't used rotors warp when removed/reinstalled?
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Jul 4, 2014 07:12
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Please explain, because Google is failing to educate me about this
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Jul 4, 2014 07:21
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Yeah that's bullshit apparently, never mind. It's what I was told when looking into changing sprockets, not to remove the rotor because tension/heat/devil magic/whatever.
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Jul 4, 2014 07:29
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I guess it could theoretically be true if you came screaming off the track with your rotors glowing red hot, hauled rear end into the pits and immediately popped the rotors off the wheels and threw them in a bucket of water. So avoid doing that.
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Jul 4, 2014 07:33
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Bugdrvr posted:I'd keep checking eBay for a set of factory rotors. If they are shared by some sort of sport bike there should be a lot of low mileage ones out there. Either way, a set of low mileage factory rotors will be your least expensive option and you won't have to worry about quality. The 919 has the same brake rotors as the VTR1000 firestorm, old fireblades, CBR600's, hornet 600's, VFR/CBR400's, CBR250 VTR250 NSR250 and about a dozen other models. I agree that used factory ones are the best bet. Tanbo posted:Yeah that's bullshit apparently, never mind. It's what I was told when looking into changing sprockets, not to remove the rotor because tension/heat/devil magic/whatever. I assume this came up because some numb-nuts tightened the bolts wildly unevenly. The rotors are basically 'floating' in the sense that they're on buttons so the friction surface is independent of the bolting-to-wheel structure anyway.
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Jul 4, 2014 07:54
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It's midnight here in California and I'm trying to put the DRZ together before morning. The problem is that some of the old-busted-engine was taken apart by a mechanic so I'm piecing it back together using an old service manual and Youtube. Everything was going fine until I got to the PAIR air supply. The service manual is describing how I remove it and blah blah blah, but as far as I can tell I don't have a spot for it to go and even if I did I can't find the part in my box of parts. It is entirely possible I don't have the PAIR and I'm looking at the wrong place to put it, but I'm not so sure. It could also be the case that the PO did some kind of mod that removed it. So if I just ignore that step and move on, am I hosed? Will I run into problems later? Or can I continue piecing the bike together and then return to the PAIR? Do I even need the PAIR*? *p.s. wtf is a PAIR?
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Jul 4, 2014 07:59
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It's a system that pulses fresh air from the airbox into the exhaust ports to reduce emissions. No you don't need PAIR unless you have to pass some sort of emissions check. To delete pair, throw literally everything in the bin. There will be a couple of reed valves in the cam cover behind a plate with a tubular protrusion for the pair pipe to go onto. Either bolt in a flat plate in place of this, or put a dead-end tube on the protrusion. Block the air pipe coming out of your airbox with something. Easy.
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Jul 4, 2014 08:03
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How much of a pain/expensive would it be to retrofit a non-ABS Aprilia Shiver or Dosoduro with ABS? Would it just be a matter of fitting the target ring and sensor (and pump/valve?) and bootstrapping it into the correct ECU pins? Would it need an ECU reflash? I understand Aprilia uses a databus like CANBUS, so would the ECU automatically detect the ABS if you wired it in? e- a bit of digging I'm pretty sure the answer is "far too much money to make it worth it". Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Jul 4, 2014 |
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Jul 4, 2014 08:17
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astrollinthepork posted:I'm coming close to the minimum thickness on the rotors for my 919. Good god rotors are expensive. If I wanted to go OEM or EBC I'm looking at $500 for 3 metal discs. I would go the Chinese ebay special route, but nearly all options are dumb rear end v rotors or something machined to the point of barely being a rotor. Ignoring the questionable utility of v rotors, I highly doubt any of them are actually 420 SS like every listing says. Is there anything between Chinese rotors and EBC/Galfer/Brembo/OEM in price? I've got chinese rotors on my VFR, they're black and wavy, but they work great, better than my old oem rotors even.
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Jul 4, 2014 08:45
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Linedance posted:How much of a pain/expensive would it be to retrofit a non-ABS Aprilia Shiver or Dosoduro with ABS? Would it just be a matter of fitting the target ring and sensor (and pump/valve?) and bootstrapping it into the correct ECU pins? Would it need an ECU reflash? I understand Aprilia uses a databus like CANBUS, so would the ECU automatically detect the ABS if you wired it in? The system is about £400 and then it's at least 5 hours labour to put it on, so you'd be lucky to get change out of £800. You'd also need access to someone with AXONE to actually enable the ABS - it's not a reflash but you still need exactly the right software to do it.
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Jul 4, 2014 09:06
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Pete Carroll posted:It's midnight here in California and I'm trying to put the DRZ together before morning. The problem is that some of the old-busted-engine was taken apart by a mechanic so I'm piecing it back together using an old service manual and Youtube. Everything was going fine until I got to the PAIR air supply. Good luck man, glad to see you are going to be back on the road soon.
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Jul 4, 2014 10:59
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Well, I ended up needing to send the wheel to Buchanan's for new spokes, but now I have another problem. I need a new exhaust header, part number 14150-44001. I can't find this thing ANYWHERE. Any ideas where to look?
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Jul 4, 2014 14:53
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Sagebrush posted:I guess it could theoretically be true if you came screaming off the track with your rotors glowing red hot, hauled rear end into the pits and immediately popped the rotors off the wheels and threw them in a bucket of water. So avoid doing that. Well, poo poo.
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Jul 4, 2014 18:20
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Pete Carroll posted:It's midnight here in California and I'm trying to put the DRZ together before morning. The problem is that some of the old-busted-engine was taken apart by a mechanic so I'm piecing it back together using an old service manual and Youtube. Everything was going fine until I got to the PAIR air supply. If you bought an e model engine, they dont have a Pair system from the factory.
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Jul 4, 2014 18:21
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Linedance posted:How much of a pain/expensive would it be to retrofit a non-ABS Aprilia Shiver or Dosoduro with ABS? Would it just be a matter of fitting the target ring and sensor (and pump/valve?) and bootstrapping it into the correct ECU pins? Would it need an ECU reflash? I understand Aprilia uses a databus like CANBUS, so would the ECU automatically detect the ABS if you wired it in? 1) Sell non-ABS model 2) Buy ABS model 3) Look at price difference 4) Laugh at how little it was compared to retrofitting 5) Go ride
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Jul 4, 2014 19:35
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Oil chat: 3.5k or so kms in, the Street Triple R needs an oil top up. The manual gives the required specs of synth or semi synth and suggests a recommended Mobil oil. The thing is, I don't know what the workshop used when they did the first service. Does it matter, or can synth and/or semi synth oils be mixed? Also, WHY THE gently caress are bikes generally designed to have their fluid levels checked while upright? Dumbest loving thing in the world for something which needs to be monitored regularly by the rider. My track stand obviously makes the bike level along the longitudinal axis but the lateral axis, not so much.
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Jul 5, 2014 04:58
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Because "upright" is a lot easier to measure than some arbitrary non-level angle?
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Jul 5, 2014 05:06
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Sagebrush posted:Because "upright" is a lot easier to measure than some arbitrary non-level angle? On side stand and turning bars to the left should cause the bike to settle to a pretty consistent lean angle on level ground, I'd have thought?
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Jul 5, 2014 05:14
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Maybe, if the ground is actually level, and your side stand isn't bent or loose, and the bars are turned to the correct angle and the tires are stock and inflated properly and all that. And some bikes are designed to be measured on their sidestands. But if you specify that the bike should be measured with it upright and level, it's pretty easy to find that position regardless of the terrain or modifications to the vehicle. If you don't have a center stand you can always find an appropriately sized block of wood to be your Measuring Block and stick that under the sidestand.
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Jul 5, 2014 05:17
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