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Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Started modifying the Gen Coupe this weekend. Installed the AEM intake while waiting for the HKS Legamax exhaust to arrive since FedEx somehow let the truck loaded with shipments leave their warehouse without knowing where it went (Not out for delivery - I was told the boxes were at the warehouse and I could go pick them up). I should be able to pick up the exhaust tomorrow at the FedEx hub, and the Forge BOV and Isis shifter should arrive by UPS tomorrow.

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Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

Seat Safety Switch posted:

but in the meantime I snaked the drain with a trombone cleaner

Holy gently caress that's ingenius, I've got a few laying around from my band days.

FatCow
Apr 22, 2002
I MAP THE FUCK OUT OF PEOPLE
Didn't do much to my ride, but I did work on my ride's ride. Hopefully now it won't bottom out when I load it.

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde
What did you do to your ride today at midnight?

Got a sudden urge to work on something at 11pm, decided to start the head removal process on the 855T. I didn't get very far because eh, it was almost midnight and I was mostly there to enjoy the peace and quiet and nice weather. And then three Japanese Hornets showed up and ruined the fun. gently caress those giant bastards, seriously.




Spot the bad cylinder(s).


Originally it was just the #1 hole (burnt valves), but there appears to be some leakage between 1 and 2. Also interesting that they seem to get better left to right.

I didn't get a picture, but judging by the amount of oil residue I found in the turbo piping, the snail is toast as well.

crutt
Sep 13, 2003
Hamhock Captain.
I made it louder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GSis8P_J28

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
These Japanese hornets?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2P7Q1ncgcoY

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde

Yep. Every summer my yard is full of those fuckers, there's a nest somewhere nearby. You can't even smash them, cuz they release some pheromone that calls more to the area.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Terrible Robot posted:

Spot the bad cylinder(s).


Originally it was just the #1 hole (burnt valves), but there appears to be some leakage between 1 and 2. Also interesting that they seem to get better left to right.

I didn't get a picture, but judging by the amount of oil residue I found in the turbo piping, the snail is toast as well.

You seem to be missing a cylinder :v:

Try shooting the hornets with brakleen or charcoal lighter fluid next time. Oddly, charcoal lighter fluid seems to work better. Be prepared to run like a motherfucker however.

1gnoirents
Jun 28, 2014

hello :)

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Started modifying the Gen Coupe this weekend. Installed the AEM intake while waiting for the HKS Legamax exhaust to arrive since FedEx somehow let the truck loaded with shipments leave their warehouse without knowing where it went (Not out for delivery - I was told the boxes were at the warehouse and I could go pick them up). I should be able to pick up the exhaust tomorrow at the FedEx hub, and the Forge BOV and Isis shifter should arrive by UPS tomorrow.



I just bought a genesis last week (3.8 '13) so I don't know much yet but I remember reading that shifter is not good (or maybe it was just for 2013+).

I like (getting my wallet butt raped by) TWM, but apparently even those have quirks for these cars. The ATQ shifter was recommended to me out of all of them for 2013+ .

I bought cheap rear end CNT knock off exhaust I'll be putting on today and hoping it even sort of lines up.

Carteret
Nov 10, 2012


1gnoirents posted:

I just bought a genesis last week (3.8 '13) so I don't know much yet but I remember reading that shifter is not good (or maybe it was just for 2013+).

I like (getting my wallet butt raped by) TWM, but apparently even those have quirks for these cars. The ATQ shifter was recommended to me out of all of them for 2013+ .

I bought cheap rear end CNT knock off exhaust I'll be putting on today and hoping it even sort of lines up.

The transmissions just kind of feel poopy. I have a '11 3.8, graced with the worst iteration of the manual transmissions. I grabbed the SFR short throw shifter, and have really enjoyed it. If you have a heavy loving knob on there it really smooths everything out nicely. I hope your exhaust fits! My 1st gen ARK sounds amazing, but hangs so goddamn low it's ridiculous.

PCJ-600
Apr 17, 2001
Saturday I saw this:




Which led to the guilty parties doing this:




But that really didn't help the overall appearance:




So I got some tape, and a lot of sandpaper:




About 9 hours and several gallons of Plasti-Dip later:





2 gallons of Black Cherry, 2 gallons of Black and 1/2 gallon of Black and Blue were mixed for the blackberry body color. The grille and roof rack are 100% Black and Blue, emblems all black.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
That looks really good!

Carteret
Nov 10, 2012


That does look really good! If you were going to go to all that effort, though, why Plasti-dip? I would think a more permanent product would save you time in the long run.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Plasti-dip does not peel nicely from faded paint surfaces :(

PCJ-600
Apr 17, 2001
Thanks! I went with that because I wanted to avoid the anxiety that comes with putting a 3- and 5-year old near a fresh paint job. As the family car the Mitsubishi gets beat to hell, and I can just respray a damaged panel so I don't worry about the inevitable wear and tear. Much of the prep was sanding and smoothing, the dip itself went on very quickly and I have about 2 gallons left for touch-ups.

Geirskogul posted:

Plasti-dip does not peel nicely from faded paint surfaces :(
I saw a few videos where dip peeled OK off faded clearcoats similar to mine. I'll deal with it when the time comes and if I have to battle with it, so be it; the paint was so shot my other options were way beyond budget or not practical with the kid factor. Much of rear was replaced last year after some drunk idiot (blew a .18) plowed into us in his Matrix, so removing the dip on the back half will at least be minimal work.

PCJ-600 fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Jul 7, 2014

1gnoirents
Jun 28, 2014

hello :)

Carteret posted:

The transmissions just kind of feel poopy. I have a '11 3.8, graced with the worst iteration of the manual transmissions. I grabbed the SFR short throw shifter, and have really enjoyed it. If you have a heavy loving knob on there it really smooths everything out nicely. I hope your exhaust fits! My 1st gen ARK sounds amazing, but hangs so goddamn low it's ridiculous.

Apparently there were some changes to 2013+ but I didn't look into it. I will definitely be getting a shifter of some sort, I've had the shortest available shifter in every card I've had since 2003. But I have to say this particular car's factory shifter/transmission feel is pretty nice. There are some pretty bad stories from earlier Genesis shifters so I wasn't sure.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Today was a mega-install day: Isis short shifter, HKS Legamax Exhaust and Forge BOV. I chose the Isis shifter because functionally all the short shifters look the same to me: shorten the lever and alter the pivot point. I only got to pull the car out of the garage after installing everything but I already dig the sound of the exhaust and the throws on the new shifter.

Pictures:



Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.




White lettering just looks so perfect on there. And that is a very pleasing noise maker.

baram.
Oct 23, 2007

smooth.



2013+ tails look so much nicer than first gen :allears:

SquirrelGrip
Jul 4, 2012
I have done nothing but fund this



Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Step 1: cut a hole in a box



It's my diff in a box!

The diff from hell is done. One bad bearing making a hell of a lot of noise, went through and replaced all the bearings and seals.



Fucker fought every step of the way. With this, the F-150 is mechanically perfect.

1gnoirents
Jun 28, 2014

hello :)

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Today was a mega-install day: Isis short shifter, HKS Legamax Exhaust and Forge BOV. I chose the Isis shifter because functionally all the short shifters look the same to me: shorten the lever and alter the pivot point. I only got to pull the car out of the garage after installing everything but I already dig the sound of the exhaust and the throws on the new shifter.

Pictures:





Nice, I just put in my CNT crapback. The definition of frustration and shoddy bullshit will have a picture of this exhaust.

But at least its on there... 4 hours later. The tips don't align, virtually nothing fits correctly, inevitably there is a leak. Someone in an exhaust shop is going to have a fun time with this one.

However just got back from a test drive and it sounds very good. Muted, but to the level I was expecting. Good tone. As good as a basic v6 gets anyways. After some test pipes I think it'll be just right. After a shifter, intake, lip spoiler, rebadging, proper HID drop ins from the GT, I think it will be good to go.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



1gnoirents posted:

Nice, I just put in my CNT crapback. The definition of frustration and shoddy bullshit will have a picture of this exhaust.

But at least its on there... 4 hours later. The tips don't align, virtually nothing fits correctly, inevitably there is a leak. Someone in an exhaust shop is going to have a fun time with this one.

However just got back from a test drive and it sounds very good. Muted, but to the level I was expecting. Good tone. As good as a basic v6 gets anyways. After some test pipes I think it'll be just right. After a shifter, intake, lip spoiler, rebadging, proper HID drop ins from the GT, I think it will be good to go.

I went with HKS even though they were expensive because I was counting on the quality. Took me two hours to do everything yesterday, including a run to the hardware store for bolts I ended up not needing. Be aware when you do your shifter that the shifter surround piece takes quite a bit of force to remove.

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde
Got a little bit more done on the 850 last night/early morning. Sometimes insomnia can be a good thing, I guess.

Intake is out. I discovered a bunch of PO fuckery while removing it, of course. Glad I bought 12 ft of silicone vacuum line and all new elbow fittings.
Thermostat housing is still on because both torx bolts stripped out when I breathed on them. Tonight I'm hoping to get the head off, or at least have the cams out.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Blew a massive hole in my radiator, apparently.

There goes my weekend :argh:

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Finally had a chance to drop the Miata off at the body shop after my neighbor backed into it over the winter. They did a pretty good job, I was worried about the paint match with the Marina Green Mica, but it looks spot on. Before and after:



evilskillit
Jan 7, 2014

METAL TOADS
Changed out the dented fender on the 2003 Buick Century with a replacement unit I got from the junkyard. Same color and everything. Didn't take any pics. It's a champagne colored 2003 Buick century, use your imagination unless someone REALLY wants to see what it looks like.

The junk yard charged a $5 core fee on the fender for some unknown reason. I figured that gas to get there and back will cost 5 or 6 dollars so I've got a spare beat up fender. Maybe I should make an art project out of it.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Crossposting from my beetle fuckery thread:

Big update time:

Removed the shroud:


It's dirty with fresh oil around the cooler:


The yellow wires are switched ignition +12V I have aleady replaced. Everything else is due, though:


Clearly, it's a leak from the oil cooler. That's a good thing, though, as I was fearing my oil spots and oily fan shroud were from a front main seal or something:


The throttle cable isn't that old, either:


Reference picture:


Oily left side cylinders:


Dry right side cylinders:


That clip wasn't and isn't holding anything. Maybe an old clip for the old solid fuel line or something?

Also note the doghouse duct cutout. Clearly someone converted this poo poo back to the stock cooler for some unknown reason.

I need to remove the crank pulley again to install the small breastplate/pulley tin:


Old doghouse-style thermostat vane arm (bent out to clear the cooler, AFAIK):


Try this great new mechanic trick! Runner's hate it!


It looks so sad:


Now, to figure out how to remove the fan from the alternator (I also have a new alternator):


You can see the oil right around the fan intake. Recent fouling:


Cooling fins. Also, the PO loved RTV.


REALLY loved it :argh:


Oil cooler base reference:


Interestingly, the cooler shroud used to be...blue?


Doesn't matter, though, because...



(I'm borderline retarded, but I'm having fun with this car)

MrChips
Jun 10, 2005

FLIGHT SAFETY TIP: Fatties out first

The distance between painting your tin metallic purple and smoking an owl pellet is less than you might imagine...

Today I found a third use for WD-40 (apart from dispersing water and taking up space on my shelves); it is damned good at removing road tar - I had read elsewhere on the internet that it works for that, but I wasn't prepared for how well it worked. I had great long streaky gobs of the stuff all over the wheel arches and rockers of my E46 again (goddamned road construction season), and instead of fighting with lovely, store-bought bug and tar removers, I tried the WD-40 trick. One quick spray and the stuff just melted and wiped off easily with a microfibre cloth. A wash, clay and wax later and everything is good as new again.

I also discovered that the worrying rattle in the front end I developed in the last week or so fortunately has nothing to do with my suspension or steering; rather, it seems to be coming from the driver's side of the hood. While I was waxing, pushing on the corner of the hood over the hinge exactly reproduced the rattle, and I could feel something isn't quite right undeneath. More investigation is needed.

MrChips fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Jul 11, 2014

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011

MrChips posted:

The distance between painting your tin metallic purple and smoking an owl pellet is less than you might imagine...


Well, you probably don't want to know how I disconnected the old (now unusable) fan from the alternator, then.
Have a new alt and a new fan, just needed the mounting adapter and nut. Didn't have a 36mm socket on hand, so...



E: I think I've felt this level of inappropriate-use-of-tools-ness before:



Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jul 11, 2014

evilskillit
Jan 7, 2014

METAL TOADS

I love it! Recently I had to compress a brake caliper but realized I didn't have a c-clamp, just some woodworker's pipe clamps. Jammed a ratchet into the cup of the piston, stretched the pipe clamp out real long and clamped against the body of caliper and the end of the ratchet.:smugdog: Worked great, tho manipulating a 36" pipe clamp in a fender well with the caliper still attached was fun but whatever.

solarNativity
Nov 11, 2012

Got new wheels and rubber.

Old and not-really-busted:


New hotness:

Devyl
Mar 27, 2005

It slices!

It dices!

It makes Julienne fries!
Did the plugs & oil today.

I wonder if these had ever been changed before I got the car...

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005
I don't have much time recently but I tried out the tach / dwell meter I picked up at the swap meet last week. The Niva should be running ~55* dwell. It's at about 44*. Kind of explains a bit. I look forward to the end results of adjusting the dwell / timing. The actual adjusting is a pig. Using the hand crank to turn the motor to the right position really, really sucks.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

evilskillit posted:

I love it! Recently I had to compress a brake caliper but realized I didn't have a c-clamp, just some woodworker's pipe clamps. Jammed a ratchet into the cup of the piston, stretched the pipe clamp out real long and clamped against the body of caliper and the end of the ratchet.:smugdog: Worked great, tho manipulating a 36" pipe clamp in a fender well with the caliper still attached was fun but whatever.

Until I bought an actual caliper compressor for a whopping $5 what I would do is grab my largest two box wrenches (1 1/16" and 15/16" respectively), put the old pads back in the caliper, then put the wrenches between the pads, brace the outside face of the caliper against my knee, and pull back on both wrench handles. Who needs a prybar when you have bigass wrenches?

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
So, did the doghouse cooler swap on the beetle (still running hot, but should be better, hopefully) and was taking the car for a drive. Of course, I'm just dicking around, so I'm in flip-flops, a greasy t-shirt and shorts, and didn't bring my wallet or phone.

Puttering down the residential blocks smoking everybody out (because I seafoamed the car right before I started the swap yesterday), and I start hearing this scraping noise, then a big BANG and the car jumps a bit, and the generator light turns on. I stop and get out (the sun is just going down), and immediately smell burnt rubber, like a bad vacuum belt. I open the rear decklid, and see shredded coils of rubber generator belt ALL OVER THE PLACE, and some pieces were smoking. Instead of investigating right away, I make sure that nothing's on fire, close the lid, turn on the parking lights, and start the 1.5 mile push of shame back to my house.

When I get back (after passing dozens of people, none who offered to help until the very last block), I start investigating what happened. When I did the alternator/cooler/fan shroud swap, I also re-installed a piece called the pulley tin, or small breastplate, circled in the picture below



This goes behind the drive pulley, and from what I understand, is important because it keeps the hot exhausted air from recirculating back into the engine bay. Unfortunately, the reason I had removed this tin a few weeks ago was to install an oil filter that comes pretty close to the crank pulley. You can see it peeking out in the following picture, to the left of the pulley:



Apparently it's a pretty close fit, because the back of the pulley was dragging on that piece of tinware. It chewed the back corner of the pulley up pretty badly, and created a lot of aluminum dust in one area. I don't know how (maybe heat?) but that caused the belt to either melt or abrade into nothing. I don't have a picture because it's dark, but when the belt went it completely crushed my right-side heater hose and air cleaner thermostat hose (stovepipe? metal hose with paper/cardboard shell). I took my biggest flat head screwdriver and a hammer and hammered the pulley tin out from the pulley itself, and though it's pretty close, I was able to put another belt back on and drive around a bit without issue (though that time I brought my cell phone).

My feet are still kind of numb from pushing the car. It's a light car, sure, but a few small hills and flip-flops are not fun. Also, while I was pushing it back, some douchebag in an older Dodge rapist van pulled up the wrong way onto the street to park, facing me directly. I had to hop in the car, hit the brakes, back up, and turn around him (I was pushing it off to the side of the road, of course). I yelled at him and called him an rear end in a top hat, and he just rolled up his window and chatted on his phone until I was well past him until he finally got out. On the plus side, the person who did offer to help (last block, so I said it was unfortunately too late) was a really cute younger girl, and she laughed when I made a "You have to walk your beetle daily, or else it gets antsy," joke.


E: poo poo-tier night pictures, to show the damage









I only had an M6x1.0 tap on hand, and the only M6x1.0 bolts I had were allen-head. Eh, it works for me. The metal in the shroud is surprisingly thick - I thought it was going to be a cheap piece of tinware, but it's thicker than the stock one.

Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Jul 12, 2014

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Replaced my lovely seiv of a radiator. Decided that it was best to go aftermarket since it was the simplest option (and best for my future plans of track days.) Went from the factory dual-core to 40mm tri-core aluminium. Replaced the factory hoses with silicone replacements and did the thermostat while I was at it, as its taking a long time to get up to temp now thats its winter (and sometimes if cruising with no throttle downhill, it goes cold)

Had a slight hiccup when I put it all back together and didnt realise I had disconnected the throttle position sensor. Otherwise probably one of the least painful jobs I have done on my car.

Still have to drain the water out and refill with coolant (wanted to check for leaks before dying my driveway green...again)

Rad, clutch fan and shroud removed.


Old and busted vs new...coolness? (you can see where the leak had occurred in the old core)



Well, theres your problem.


Finished.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Car has been running warm to downright hot for a few days. Being a GM, the temp gauge normally sits a touch below half, and only flinches if it's about to catch on fire or if someone poured ice into the radiator. It's been getting up to about 1/3 above half.... with the a/c off. Turn on the a/c and it'll peg it in traffic (and send scorching air through the vents), or drop to normal on the highway (and roll fog from the vents).

Opened the underhood fuse/relay box. Tried to interpret the diagram, discovered relays for options my car doesn't even have. Swapped two identical relays. the radiator fan is now reliable, but I probably can't count on the anti-lock for much (..... the car isn't even equipped with ABS, but it had a relay for it with the same p/n as the ABS relay?). Still, even at 100+ outside, with the windows and sunroof open, it's honestly comfortable as long as I have a hat, sunglasses, and the car is moving.

OBD2 reported over 230F at several points. Upside is both the head and block are aluminum, and it never reached a critical point, so hopefully there's no real damage (aside for the huge sweat stains on my undershirts).

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON

some texas redneck posted:

Swapped two identical relays. the radiator fan is now reliable, but I probably can't count on the anti-lock for much (..... the car isn't even equipped with ABS, but it had a relay for it with the same p/n as the ABS relay?)

Probably cheaper for GM to install the same engine bay distribution/fuse box into every car regardless of options than to supply the manufacturing lines with different boxes with some fuses/relays missing.

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Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

Geirskogul posted:

On the plus side, the person who did offer to help (last block, so I said it was unfortunately too late) was a really cute younger girl, and she laughed when I made a "You have to walk your beetle daily, or else it gets antsy," joke.

Pushing your broken VW allows you to meet girls? Now I understand why people buy them.

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