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thanks!^^^ So Ive been having some vibration under the car and little pinging noises when on the gas, most notably on the highway in 5th, but sometimes i hear it when im driving on the side roads in fourth. Everything under the car is tight, I checked all the exhaust heat shields, cut off the loose ones. I am thinking that the driveshaft center bearing is failing. Ive come to this conclusion in part because the noise is very similar to the one in my old nissan pickup after I slammed it and fried the bearing in the process. So Ive looked it up on the factory service manual, and they say the driveshaft(propeller shaft) is not meant to be taken apart, and im afraid i have to believe them, because I cant find the bearing itself anywhere online. My homeboy internetracecar said to grab a junkyard shaft, which I will probably do, because the new one from suby is 700. Anyone been down this road?
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Jun 30, 2014 23:53
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When I hit the brakes, sometimes my ABS, traction control, and hill hold lights come on. They stay on until I turn off the car. It doesn't always happen, maybe a few times in the last couple weeks. Any ideas? I'm still under warranty, is it worth my time at the dealer, or can this be fixed relatively quickly/cheaply myself?
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Jul 1, 2014 00:39
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always be closing posted:thanks!^^^ I went through this last year, ended up buying a new drive-shaft from wholesaleimportparts.com for $465, which sucked but still better than $700. I haven't had any issues with the new one. It was just the u-joints that were fried on mine, the center support bearing was fine. FogHelmut posted:When I hit the brakes, sometimes my ABS, traction control, and hill hold lights come on. They stay on until I turn off the car. It doesn't always happen, maybe a few times in the last couple weeks. Any ideas? I'm still under warranty, is it worth my time at the dealer, or can this be fixed relatively quickly/cheaply myself? If it is still under warranty there is no reason not to take it in. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Jul 1, 2014 |
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Jul 1, 2014 00:52
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FogHelmut posted:When I hit the brakes, sometimes my ABS, traction control, and hill hold lights come on. They stay on until I turn off the car. It doesn't always happen, maybe a few times in the last couple weeks. Any ideas? I'm still under warranty, is it worth my time at the dealer, or can this be fixed relatively quickly/cheaply myself? If you do anything you could void the warranty, take it in.
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Jul 1, 2014 00:57
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Terrible Robot posted:I went through this last year, ended up buying a new drive-shaft from wholesaleimportparts.com for $465, which sucked but still better than $700. I haven't had any issues with the new one. It was just the u-joints that were fried on mine, the center support bearing was fine. drat, thats not as bad. Im going to call around to the junkyards around here. My forester only has 120k, so I dont know how much better off I am with some 170k+ shaft. Im pretty sure that the problem is the carrier bearing though, since the shaft seems pretty tight. Ujoints usually clunk iirc.
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Jul 1, 2014 01:09
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FogHelmut posted:When I hit the brakes, sometimes my ABS, traction control, and hill hold lights come on. They stay on until I turn off the car. It doesn't always happen, maybe a few times in the last couple weeks. Any ideas? I'm still under warranty, is it worth my time at the dealer, or can this be fixed relatively quickly/cheaply myself? It's a wheel speed sensor. Could be anything from a bad $50 sensor to "OH MY GOD WHY DON'T YOU loving WORK" electrical gremlins. If it's on warranty, take it in.
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Jul 1, 2014 01:15
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Nasioc.txt
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Jul 1, 2014 04:57
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I wonder how many women refer to men they see as "a male". I actually know the answer. It is zero.
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Jul 1, 2014 05:20
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The only guy I know who calls women females is a dude who drinks 2 liters of pepsi a day, "showers" by washing his hair without shampoo in his kitchen sink once a month, and claims to have not brushed his teeth since 2011, not to mention the beard. I am really really grateful I hosed my Olfactory nerves up as a kid and can barely smell, if my nose worked 100% I'd probably throw up.
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Jul 1, 2014 05:31
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04 WRX wagon - front brake pads were getting pretty thin and I was noticing an intermittent pulse during braking that I could feel through the pedal and the steering wheel. Confirmed it's from the front with some stops via the handbrake. Put new front pads on and now the pulse is almost undetectable at low speed stops but very noticeable stopping from >40mph (pulse still felt through the pedal and steering wheel but now it's "harsher" for lack of a better term during those higher speed stops). I noticed that on both sides the lower caliper slides were pretty sticky but they moved enough to get the calipers with new pads back on. I also saw that both backside pads had worn unevenly - thinner on the "bottom" than the "top" (i.e. they were thicker near the tattler). The rotors seem to have plenty of material left, but they're probably fairly old. Do I need new rotors? Or could the pulse be from something else?
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Jul 1, 2014 15:51
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Did you bed in the pads correctly? If you're using fresh pads on beaten up rotors you may need to perform some higher-speed/higher-temperature bedding in to get them to make friends again. If that doesn't work it might be time to look at new rotors.
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Jul 1, 2014 15:58
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amenenema posted:04 WRX wagon - front brake pads were getting pretty thin and I was noticing an intermittent pulse during braking that I could feel through the pedal and the steering wheel. Confirmed it's from the front with some stops via the handbrake. Put new front pads on and now the pulse is almost undetectable at low speed stops but very noticeable stopping from >40mph (pulse still felt through the pedal and steering wheel but now it's "harsher" for lack of a better term during those higher speed stops). I think it's the front rotors with uneven pad material on them, but it could potentially be the rear brakes. On the 04 WRX, the rear rotors are composite so the e-brake actuates the inner drum while the hydraulic brakes actuate the calipers. Testing using the e-brake does not isolate the rear brakes. I know it's wasteful but I've gotten into the habit of just doing pads and rotors every time. Blank rotors are like $30 apiece, so I just toss em on even if it doesn't seem like it needs em. I just like em without the giant rust crust, I guess. dayman fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Jul 1, 2014 |
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Jul 1, 2014 16:44
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dayman posted:I know it's wasteful but I've gotten into the habit of just doing pads and rotors every time. Blank rotors are like $30 apiece, so I just toss em on even if it doesn't seem like it needs em. I just like em without the giant rust crust, I guess. You're not the only one who does this. poo poo I feel like if I'm taking a couple of hours to put the car on jacks and all that I might as well not cut corners.
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Jul 1, 2014 16:51
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Thanks all - I'll try bedding them in and if it doesn't get better I'll grab new rotors. Since I can feel it through the wheel I'm pretty confident it's just the fronts, but the e-brake note is helpful knowledge.
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Jul 1, 2014 17:15
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Apparently it's impossible to find an OEM engine air filter for an '11 WRX online, anyone know where to look? Otherwise I'll have to suck it up and drive 20 miles to the dealer.
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Jul 2, 2014 04:16
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blargle posted:Apparently it's impossible to find an OEM engine air filter for an '11 WRX online, anyone know where to look? Otherwise I'll have to suck it up and drive 20 miles to the dealer. Rockauto or rallysportdirect.
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Jul 2, 2014 04:20
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Does anyone know where I can get wiring diagrams ect for the alarm that came stock on blobeyes? It might be different in Australia to the US but its worth a shot. I have an idea for a project while i wait for Uni to start again, need to figure out if its possible.
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Jul 2, 2014 05:42
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VelociBacon posted:Rockauto or rallysportdirect. Neither one sells the OEM part.. I'll just hit the dealer.
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Jul 2, 2014 12:49
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blargle posted:Neither one sells the OEM part.. I'll just hit the dealer. Do you mean by OEM like Subaru brand? Honestly, its an air filter.
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Jul 2, 2014 12:57
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FogHelmut posted:Do you mean by OEM like Subaru brand? Honestly, its an air filter. Air filters are air filters, generally. I use the purolators from advance/autozone. This is what comes out of mine after STPR. 
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Jul 2, 2014 13:41
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Just get a Purolator from wherever.
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Jul 2, 2014 21:11
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Hey guys. Does anyone have any more info on the break recall? "Affected vehicles are the 2009-2013 Forester, the 2008-2011 Impreza and the 2008-2014 Impreza WRX/STI, the 2005-2009 Outback and the 2005-2009 Legacy, the NHTSA said." http://www.reuters.com/article/2014/07/03/autos-subaru-recall-idUSL2N0PE0JF20140703 I am going to head to the dealer this weekend to see if I need a replacement.
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Jul 3, 2014 15:38
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I seem to think this was already a recall from a while back? At least I thought it was. edit: Yea, looks like they're expanding it to cover more models. But it was out for the Legacy/Outback models a few months back. http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/201...type=blogs&_r=0 PitViper fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Jul 3, 2014 |
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Jul 3, 2014 15:40
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darkcaps posted:Hey guys. Does anyone have any more info on the break recall? This affects me and I want to know what "anti-corrosion wax" is and how long it will last.
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Jul 3, 2014 16:30
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Jul 3, 2014 16:53
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It's been sunny lately and driving around to work and such with the roof scoop open and hearing the motor and feeling the way it drives it's going to make it really hard to sell this car now that it's not leaking.
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Jul 4, 2014 05:06
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PitViper posted:I seem to think this was already a recall from a while back? At least I thought it was. Still need to have it done: "This recall supersedes recall 13V-110 which applied to certain 2005-2009 Legacy/Outback vehicles. Vehicles that were remedied under the previous campaign still need additional areas rust-proofed."
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Jul 4, 2014 07:15
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I'm replacing the bushings at the connection between the shifter and the shift linkage (the ones in the middle of the actual shifter). Is there anywhere I can find a torque spec for the bolt that goes through the bushings or is it just a 'till it feels tight' deal?
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Jul 5, 2014 21:39
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Hey guys, looking for a shove in the right direction here! I've got a 2006 wrx wagon with about 85k miles on it, that recently developed a nice clunking noise whenever I shift from reverse to 1st, into 1st, or into 2nd. I haven't gone under the hood too much because its 100F+ outside but based on some searching I think it is either a motor mount issue, something loose in the exhaust system (doubtful), or a strut problem. It's a single very audible clunk that pretty much only occurs at those times. Sometimes I can get it to clunk if I let the RPMs drop really low (<1500) and then accelerate quickly but it doesn't happen every time. Any ideas? I took a picture of the strut mounts, this is the passenger side (I hope...) this morning and noticed both of them were cracked so I think that might be a clear problem. How easy would it be to fix on my own? Again it is hot as poo poo where I am now and I don't have access to a garage, just a carport most likely. Not opposed to taking it to a shop, I have a guy I trust, I'd just rather not have to spend 2-3k if I can avoid it. 
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Jul 7, 2014 15:23
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The clunking noise when shifting is probably not strut tops - I've driven around on strut tops much worse than that and didn't have that problem. If you're routinely having rear end clunking when you do a fast up shift, that's the soft-as-hell factory "outrigger" bushings and is just the diff bouncing around on its mounts (nothing to worry about). That mushroomy bit in the middle of the strut top is actually a cap that you can take off with your fingernails, take a look down there and see if the nut has backed off or is visibly disgusting in a rust-like way. I really hate diagnosing sounds over the internet, but if it's a faint clunk that sounds like it's coming from far away it could be something in the shift linkage itself. The Subaru transmissions are loud enough that you can hear them shift gears while lying next to the car with it sitting still. As for the strut tops you should probably replace them. It is not terribly difficult, but you will have to drop the entire strut + spring + top assembly, dismantle it (use a spring compressor), swap out the part and then put the whole mess back on. Then do a front alignment. You'll need to put the car up on jackstands for this, so don't do it in a gravel carport. Driveway concrete is fine. I can't see it costing 2-3k even if you tell the guy to replace all four struts and strut mounts with brand new ones.
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Jul 7, 2014 15:28
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I'm thinking of looking at this Forester for the missus - price seems very good for the NW. Not sure what trim level it is, but anything I should keep an eye out for in general? http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/4556154687.html
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Jul 7, 2014 15:29
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blk posted:I'm thinking of looking at this Forester for the missus - price seems very good for the NW. Not sure what trim level it is, but anything I should keep an eye out for in general? Head gaskets. Read the blerb in the OP about them. Here is a Subaru maintenance table. Pretty standard for all 2.5 powered lumps. 
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Jul 7, 2014 16:02
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I'm about due for 60k service on my WRX, what's an average cost to have the plugs changed? I looked at the service manual and don't think I really want to do it.
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Jul 7, 2014 18:47
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Hollis Brown posted:I'm about due for 60k service on my WRX, what's an average cost to have the plugs changed? I looked at the service manual and don't think I really want to do it. I don't know about just the plugs, but ECS Performance (Subaru tuner) charges $600 for a 60K service, I think it's around $850 at the local dealership. That said, changing spark plugs isn't bad if you have the right set of tools.
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Jul 7, 2014 19:23
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Neptr posted:I don't know about just the plugs, but ECS Performance (Subaru tuner) charges $600 for a 60K service, I think it's around $850 at the local dealership. That said, changing spark plugs isn't bad if you have the right set of tools. That's not too bad, thanks for the quote. I was thinking about ordering extra-s and doing the diffs and transmission myself but hiring out the brakes, coolant, and plugs. I've got a little time to decide.
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Jul 7, 2014 20:32
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I just got back from an 8 hour road trip. I am happy to report that the 2015 WRX gets 33 mpg. At 80 mph. It's a fantastic trip car.
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Jul 7, 2014 21:21
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The clunking noise when shifting is probably not strut tops - I've driven around on strut tops much worse than that and didn't have that problem. If you're routinely having rear end clunking when you do a fast up shift, that's the soft-as-hell factory "outrigger" bushings and is just the diff bouncing around on its mounts (nothing to worry about). Since you seem to know your Subaru noises well, what would cause 98 to make a thunk/pop noise when taking it out of gear coming to a stop? It's only noticeable outside the car.
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Jul 7, 2014 21:51
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rcman50166 posted:I just got back from an 8 hour road trip. I am happy to report that the 2015 WRX gets 33 mpg. At 80 mph. It's a fantastic trip car. Where did you drive, how flat was it? That's amazing right there. Best I've ever been able to eek out is around 24-25 on my 2011.
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Jul 7, 2014 23:08
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Hollis Brown posted:That's not too bad, thanks for the quote. I was thinking about ordering extra-s and doing the diffs and transmission myself but hiring out the brakes, coolant, and plugs. I've got a little time to decide. If youre going through the pain in the rear end of changing those fluids why not do it all?
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Jul 7, 2014 23:19
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bull3964 posted:Where did you drive, how flat was it? Virginia to Connecticut. Half of it is intersection highway, the rest is interstate. Speed limit ranges from 35 to 65. At one point traffic was doing about 85, though.
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Jul 8, 2014 00:01
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