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Gonna go test drive a used 2008 ms3 tomorrow. Drove my brothers regular 3 around last week to remind myself how to drive stick, I'm pretty rusty, especially down shifts.. I've read the clutch is tricky, any tips? Also I'm going to be taking it to a mechanic for an inspection following the test drive. Is there anything I should look out for during my own inspection specific to the ms3? Google Butt fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jul 2, 2014 |
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Jul 2, 2014 20:31
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| # ? May 10, 2024 18:17 |
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Not MS3 specific, but might help: get the car on flat ground. Try to take off from a stand still using only the clutch and no gas so you can learn where the engagement point is and how long the friction zone is. Apply gas pedal for faster take offs. Downshifting takes time. Don't be afraid to blip high; its easier on your tranny and way smoother if the RPMs are too high and have to be brought down by the tranny rather than up.
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Jul 2, 2014 21:28
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Google Butt posted:Gonna go test drive a used 2008 ms3 tomorrow. Drove my brothers regular 3 around last week to remind myself how to drive stick, I'm pretty rusty, especially down shifts.. I've read the clutch is tricky, any tips? The clutch engages really low, but more importantly there isn't much 'travel' to the clutch being partially and fully applied. The clutch is fully applied like halfway upwards the full travel of the pedal. Basically, you just have to be really slow and easy with your clutch foot. It's pretty grabby and sudden otherwise. Once you get used to it, it's just fine.
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Jul 2, 2014 21:45
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I done did it. Dude I bought it from had a beautiful cayman s and perfect NSX in his garage.
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Jul 4, 2014 04:43
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Nice! The seats are awesome if it's a GT.
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Jul 4, 2014 14:14
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Bovril Delight posted:Nice! The seats are awesome if it's a GT. The seats are ridiculous, I had no idea.
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Jul 4, 2014 20:17
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You guys can't tease us non-MS3 plebs like that. Show us the seats :|
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Jul 5, 2014 00:50
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Martytoof posted:You guys can't tease us non-MS3 plebs like that. Show us the seats :|  08.5/09 GT is by far the best MS3. opengl fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jul 5, 2014 |
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Jul 5, 2014 04:33
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So the next MX-5 is apparently a new turbocharged design. Wonder if the new Speed3 might be around the bend with the same basic engine? I doubt we will see anything before MY16 though.
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Jul 5, 2014 05:47
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Cygni posted:So the next MX-5 is apparently a new turbocharged design. Wonder if the new Speed3 might be around the bend with the same basic engine? I doubt we will see anything before MY16 though. People keep saying this, can you post a source where Mazda confirms it?
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Jul 5, 2014 06:31
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Is there a decent guide to changing transmission fluid in a 2008 floating around? Edit: Anyone tried that Ford Motorcraft xt-m5-qs transmission fluid the mazda forums guys are head over heels for? Google Butt fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Jul 5, 2014 |
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Jul 5, 2014 06:40
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Rhyno posted:People keep saying this, can you post a source where Mazda confirms it? The turbo engine? It's pretty noticeable in the 'teaser' video Mazda put out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_iRcpJ1Z1U
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Jul 5, 2014 06:44
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Mazda curse strikes again. That problem I spoke of earlier turns out to be a bent rim and a hosed wheel bearing. The hub needs to be replaced with the rim plus an alignment. 1250 repair cost. They tell me that the control arm or suspension may need fixing. They will know on the alignment rack.
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Jul 5, 2014 18:09
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I've got another question. Can the vibrations caused by an aftermarket rear motor mount potentially stress the other stock mounts or otherwise damage anything else on the car? I ordered a jbr 88duro rmm and I just want to be sure it won't have any effect on the reliably of other parts.
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Jul 5, 2014 18:20
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Google Butt posted:Is there a decent guide to changing transmission fluid in a 2008 floating around? http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=287768 I put that fluid in recently at 43K. Can't say I've noticed much difference. Maybe a tiny bit smoother, but I honestly wouldn't spend the $65 again unless I was trying to solve a problem.
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Jul 5, 2014 20:03
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opengl128 posted:http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=287768 Thanks. I wonder why all these dudes are saying they feel a miraculous transformation in their transmission after doing it.
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Jul 5, 2014 20:14
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Google Butt posted:Thanks. I wonder why all these dudes are saying they feel a miraculous transformation in their transmission after doing it. If anything it made my car harder to shift when it is cold. It was also quite pricey. I'd just stick with whatever Mazda uses in the future. Has anyone done a coolant flush or brake and clutch fluid flush on their gen 1 ms3? I'm at about 45k miles and thinking that couldn't hurt.
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Jul 5, 2014 22:10
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I put that in my MS3. It seemed to smooth out a bit of the notchiness. Mostly noticed it when it was warmer, cold didn't seem to change much.
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Jul 5, 2014 22:10
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MetaJew posted:Has anyone done a coolant flush or brake and clutch fluid flush on their gen 1 ms3? I'm at about 45k miles and thinking that couldn't hurt. I did my brake fluid a couple years ago, but only because I boiled it at a track day. I don't imagine I'd have any reason to do it so far otherwise.
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Jul 5, 2014 22:31
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MetaJew posted:Has anyone done a coolant flush or brake and clutch fluid flush on their gen 1 ms3? I'm at about 45k miles and thinking that couldn't hurt. You should probably flush your brake fluid every other year or so, unless you live in a very dry climate. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs and retains water,) if you let it go for too long you're asking for your brake lines to rust from the inside out.
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Jul 5, 2014 23:26
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Cygni posted:The turbo engine? It's pretty noticeable in the 'teaser' video Mazda put out: It must be because I own an MS3 but I didn't even notice the turbo sounds when I watched this a couple days ago :3 Pretty likely they'll shove this in the new skyactiv chassis and call it a day.
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Jul 6, 2014 02:36
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Google Butt posted:I've got another question. Can the vibrations caused by an aftermarket rear motor mount potentially stress the other stock mounts or otherwise damage anything else on the car? I ordered a jbr 88duro rmm and I just want to be sure it won't have any effect on the reliably of other parts. I'd say it's the opposite. A stiffer rear mount will keep the engine from moving so much and reduce stress on the others. Of course they're all made of cheese so there's a good chance you'll blow up the upper mount anyway. Not as stupid easy as the RMM but not hard.
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Jul 6, 2014 04:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd say it's the opposite. A stiffer rear mount will keep the engine from moving so much and reduce stress on the others. Awesome, great to hear. I just picked up the 1.5 ton floor jack from HF in preperation for the RMM, pretty excited. I don't know if any of you are familiar with the Monterey Bay, but I took my ms3 out for a drive today.. Summit road, HWY 9 and Bear Creek Road. Great driving roads, it was such a blast, seriously. I've never heel toed outside of video games, feels so good to do it for real.
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Jul 6, 2014 04:43
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So opposite of the above - my brother's MS3 has had a nasty clunk in the front end for a while and I just brought it home again tonight (he had it a few weeks ago before shipping off to Korea) and jacked up the front and went hunting and found that the bushing in his aftermarket rear mount was pretty much non-existent. I put the stock mount back in and the clunk is (unsurprisingly) gone, but should I be worried about accelerated wear on his aftermarket side mounts now? I'm going to put in a replacement bushing relatively soon but I'll leave it sitting in the garage if I'm going to hurt something by driving it. Also is bushing wear on aftermarket mounts accelerated? It went in about two year/25,000 miles ago, the manufacturer (Sure) sells replacements for cheap, I just figured it would have lasted a bit longer.
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Jul 6, 2014 07:39
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There was a huge crapstorm over at one of the Mazda forums (mazdas247?) about shoddy parts out of SURE. I had their RMM on my ms6 and while it never failed on me it certainly was not the same feeling I had when it was brand new. You're better off getting a new mount from a different manufacturer like JBR.
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Jul 6, 2014 08:01
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Yeah, the ones I used were JBR mounts. Seriously loving solid pieces, my only regret was not doing them much, much earlier.
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Jul 6, 2014 08:23
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I quite liked the TRZ Dogbone mount I had put in. I believe it had the poly bushings.
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Jul 6, 2014 14:08
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Is anyone a VIP on mazdaspeedforums? Is there anything cool or useful in there? Any recommendations for safe jackstand points on the front and rear? Google Butt fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jul 6, 2014 |
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Jul 6, 2014 20:49
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Google Butt posted:Any recommendations for safe jackstand points on the front and rear? Lift from the front and rear crossmembers, place jack stands at the corner jack points where you would normally use your scissor jack to change a flat.
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Jul 6, 2014 21:32
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Google Butt posted:Is anyone a VIP on mazdaspeedforums? Is there anything cool or useful in there? I usually jack up the rear directly on the subframe and support it on the control arms at the spring seats. The front is a pain in the rear end, I've found lifting on the front LCA where it connects to the subframe works best and then there's a reinforced point on the floorpan about in line with the front edge of the front doors that works well for support.
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Jul 6, 2014 21:34
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Thanks dudes. I have a clunk in the rear going slow. I wiggled the endlinks around and they seemed tight, but I didn't actually try moving the RSB with my hand yet. Does the car need to be lifted to test for that? Just looked at the oem jack points, do I need some pinch weld adapters for my jack stands? Google Butt fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Jul 6, 2014 |
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Jul 6, 2014 21:38
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Anyone know of a source for OEM (or OE-spec, doesn't have to be genuine Mazda parts) replacements for MS3 suspension components? I'm fairly certain at this point the rear-end clunk in my brother's MS3 is a bad strut (already replaced swaybar endlinks) and I'm not entirely trusting of RockAuto after they sent me a regular 3 lower grille after selecting it from the "2.3L turbocharged" category. e: did some research on some Mazda-specific forums, seeing a lot of references to SenSen shocks/struts being better than the OEM parts at $160 for the full set. Anyone have anything good/bad to say about these? Geoj fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 21:13
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So tonight I was able to complete minor surgery on my little sister's 2006 Mazda6i! I replaced the ECT sensor and turbine speed sensor to clear some CELs that have been on for a while. I was also going to swap out the thermostat but ran into a problem trying to determine the best way to get the old one out. On my 2006 mazda5 it was easy as I could stick my little hand in from the front and remove everything. No need to remove the tensioner or the belt. On my sister's 2006 mazda6, there is the power steering reserve right in the way which is complicating things. I really dont want to have to remove the power steering reserve nor the belt unless I absolutely have to. Has anyone done something like this on a mazda6? Am I over thinking it or is there an easier way?
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Jul 8, 2014 06:08
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Gonna be installing my jbr rmm, any tips?
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Jul 8, 2014 06:31
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Google Butt posted:Gonna be installing my jbr rmm, any tips? Properly jack and support front end, use jack to relieve some weight off motor. Remove bolts holding the motor mount on, use a small amount of oil to lube the poly bushings on the new motor mount. Slide in, tighten bolts. Realize how poo poo the stock mount was all along.
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Jul 8, 2014 06:35
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Properly jack and support front end, use jack to relieve some weight off motor. Remove bolts holding the motor mount on, use a small amount of oil to lube the poly bushings on the new motor mount. Slide in, tighten bolts. Realize how poo poo the stock mount was all along. Thanks man! What kind of oil do you recommend for the bushing?
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Jul 8, 2014 08:06
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Geoj posted:references to SenSen shocks/struts being better than the OEM parts at $160 for the full set. Anyone have anything good/bad to say about these? I am thinking of getting Koni yellows or doing something else because I don't like the height, so I could sell you my SenSens if you want, I just gotta see if Edge's sale has anything I like for suspension. They're great for daily driving and are stiffer in the front, softer in the rear compared to OEM. Don't expect much for performance though. Look through my post history in this thread to get more info on how I reached my decision when shopping and it could help out with your dilemma. I no longer drive my car daily so it's more of a fun weekend thing now and I crave better suspension performance. e: you will also want to get rear camber arms while you're at it. Oh and this happened  
air- fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Jul 8, 2014 |
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Jul 8, 2014 15:06
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I've got a question that I'm afraid I already know the answer to, but wanted some input. I just had the tires rotated on my 2013 Speed 3. Now when I accelerate there is a small but noticeable pull to the right. I had a tire replaced a few months ago due to a near-sidewall puncture, and I opted to go for a Nexen N5000, because the stock Dunlops are $283 (!!!) a piece. It was originally in the rear, but now it's moved to the front so I have mismatched tires in the front. I suspect the pull is due to a slight difference in tire diameter or sidewall flex. I'm going to give it some miles to wear in on the front, but I'm not sure if that's going to fix the pull. I'll probably wait until the fronts are toast then but a new full set of Michelins or something. At least when I step on it the pull to the right offsets the torque steer a bit!
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Jul 10, 2014 01:53
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Petekill posted:I've got a question that I'm afraid I already know the answer to, but wanted some input. I just had the tires rotated on my 2013 Speed 3. Now when I accelerate there is a small but noticeable pull to the right. I had a tire replaced a few months ago due to a near-sidewall puncture, and I opted to go for a Nexen N5000, because the stock Dunlops are $283 (!!!) a piece. It was originally in the rear, but now it's moved to the front so I have mismatched tires in the front. You never know, a wheel weight could have fallen off or something!
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Jul 10, 2014 02:02
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What would you guys do next after a new RMM? Not looking to get crazy, I can't afford an accessport/fuel pump internals right now. Is there a standard upgrade path or anything that's worth bolting on until I get the AP/HPFP? SRI, sway bars, oil catch can, more motor mounts?! Google Butt fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 10:01
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