|
Sagebrush posted:I think that anything from Leatherman or Gerber is going to be good. Seconded. Both companies have great warranties too.
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2014 21:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 06:21 |
|
|
rockrobster posted:I work for a company that assembles furniture then delivers it and I'm needing a good multi-tool. I've been looking around online and the market is extremely flooded with a lot of shoddy looking product. Specifically I would *like* to have one with a carabiner , gut hook ( to remove cellophane from shipping) , a phillips, pliers, and some wrenches. Just wondering if anyone had any suggestions. I don't necessarily require all those tools but the more I can have on me the less time I have to waste on digging in our "tool closet". ( Which is a fcking nightmare to find anything in.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2014 21:43
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Seconded. Both companies have great warranties too. Leatherman used to offer lifetime warranties 
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2014 23:12
|
|
|
I will toss SOG into the suggestion hat. My SOG multitool always seemed to be about triple the quality of the Leatherman tools I ran into. At the time, that SOG model was the only multitool on the market with a strapcutter hook and I loved it. I'm glad to hear that that feature caught on.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2014 23:42
|
|
|
So I need a new lathe for a scale model of the Pantheon (!) I've been commissioned to do, and I've got about $1000 to spend. Conveniently, Woodcraft has a Nova on sale http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020011/22005/Nova-1624-44-Wood-Lathe.aspx. I've heard good things about Nova lathes, but do y'all have opinions? Or other ones I'd be better off buying? I turn bowls on the side, mostly, and don't as much care about the distance between centers as I do the inboard/outboard capacity.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2014 18:35
|
|
|
I accidentally made the gears skip on a friend's SOG while trying to use the pliers, so I don't think I'll ever buy one of those. That being said, I did break one of the jaws off the pliers on a leatherman surge while using it to undo an upper control arm nut, but they cheerfully replaced it for me free of charge.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2014 23:54
|
|
|
Stavrogin posted:So I need a new lathe for a scale model of the Pantheon (!) I've been commissioned to do, and I've got about $1000 to spend. Conveniently, Woodcraft has a Nova on sale http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020011/22005/Nova-1624-44-Wood-Lathe.aspx. I've heard good things about Nova lathes, but do y'all have opinions? Or other ones I'd be better off buying? I turn bowls on the side, mostly, and don't as much care about the distance between centers as I do the inboard/outboard capacity. I think that Nova is generally regarded as a pretty good lathe. I'm assuming this is your second lathe? If it's not, you should cut your budget in half for the actual lathe and plan on spending the other half on tooling / chucks. I have a variable speed lathe and it's awesome. I don't think I could ever go back to changing belts. If you need a lathe that size, variable speed may be out of your price range.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2014 10:53
|
|
|
I grabbed a 2" drum sander bit from work that we don't use anymore. I remember earlier in the thread someone advising against using one of these in a drill press, but would using this in a drill also cause issues, as there would be pressure applied to the gearing laterally vs. straight on like they are designed to do?
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2014 15:40
|
|
|
canyoneer posted:Leatherman used to offer lifetime warranties 25 years isn't long enough for you?
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2014 00:55
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:I grabbed a 2" drum sander bit from work that we don't use anymore. I remember earlier in the thread someone advising against using one of these in a drill press, but would using this in a drill also cause issues, as there would be pressure applied to the gearing laterally vs. straight on like they are designed to do? I really wouldn't worry about it much in either case. Tools are meant to be used. Just don't apply crazy preassure, which you probably shouldn't anyway.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2014 01:14
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:would using this in a drill also cause issues, as there would be pressure applied to the gearing laterally vs. straight on like they are designed to do? Unless your spindle has a threaded end which the chuck threads onto and locks with a lock nut, then yes it is a bad idea. The more common method of retaining the spindle tooling in a drill press is the fit of the mating tapers. They are only meant to have force applied in the vertical plane. Excessive lateral forces will cause the tapers to unseat and whatever was in there will fall out, possibly fly out. If it uses a lock nut, it's bad for the bearings as they weren't designed for it, but you can do it safely.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2014 01:49
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:I grabbed a 2" drum sander bit from work that we don't use anymore. I remember earlier in the thread someone advising against using one of these in a drill press, but would using this in a drill also cause issues, as there would be pressure applied to the gearing laterally vs. straight on like they are designed to do? I have read arguments both ways and my opinion is that lateral pressure might possibly cause problems but probably won't. Drill presses use tapers, lathes use tapers, both use roller bearings (better lathes have taper bearings); lathes are designed for lateral pressure. So I don't rule out the possibility it's bad but neither do I worry about light drum sanding.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2014 06:26
|
|
|
The tooling in a lathe spindle has some other method of retention (camlock, threaded end, drawbar for collets) and the taper serves as a precision locating surface. The tailstock taper, which is the same as a non-locking drill press spindle, is used for drilling and between centers work which will see thrust applied linearly, effectively locking the center into the mating taper.
Chauncey fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Jul 4, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2014 17:09
|
|
|
Chauncey posted:The tooling in a lathe spindle has some other method of retention (camlock, threaded end, drawbar for collets) and the taper serves as a precision locating surface. The tailstock taper, which is the same as a non-locking drill press spindle, is used for drilling and between centers work which will see thrust applied linearly, effectively locking the center into the mating taper. Retention for things like drilling from the head stock which will pull the chuck or arbor out of the taper, that's not lateral pressure.
|
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2014 22:03
|
|
|
wormil posted:Retention for things like drilling from the head stock which will pull the chuck or arbor out of the taper, that's not lateral pressure. I do not know what point you are trying to make here. Do you not understand what you quoted?
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 01:56
|
|
|
Chauncey posted:I do not know what point you are trying to make here. Do you not understand what you quoted? he made sense to me. the locking on the headstock is for axial stress, the taper is what (primarily) bears lateral stress. also the tail stock will bear lateral loads when turning between centers as well
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 06:48
|
|
|
So, is the contention that since a tailstock can be used for turning between centers; a drill press can be used as a vertical lathe? If that is the point, then yeah, sure you can do that; but it's not safe. The only way to get to the conclusion that this type of thing is ok is if you don't understand what I said. The spindle taper does not bear lateral stresses. When tooling is secured to the headstock spindle, they are effectively one piece and lateral forces are then withstood by the spindle bearings. Again, if you don't understand, just ask. But don't spread dangerous misinformation. Lathes are not drill presses, thanks. Edit: when turning between centers in a lathe, the tailstock ram is pressed into the work and then locked in place, effectively retaining the tailstock's morse taper from falling out due to lateral pressure. ...Went out to the garage to get some visual aid. Here's a shot of my wood lathe headstock. It has a #2 Morse taper in both headstock and tailstock. The headstock has a 1"-8 male thread to mount chucks and faceplates.  A spur center is laying on the bed. It is inserted into the headstock and the tailstock center is brought to bear upon the work between the centers.   All of this works because the work is being restrained between the headstock and tailstock. If you take the tailstock pressure out of the equation, then you have to use the threaded spindle mount like this:  There is a reason they don't mount the chucks on a morse taper stub. It's because they won't stay in the spindle without some other means of retention. That's why they put threads on the end of my particular spindle. Hope this helps. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Jul 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 12:30
|
|
|
The usual concern is that lateral pressure will do "something" and cause more run out which is possibly a valid concern if someone would ever explain exactly what "something" is going to happen. Usually people remark that radial bearings are not meant for sideways pressure but that is not quite true. They are not the best choice but that is not the same. I am not saying that drum sanding on a drill press is okay, what I am saying is that after asking the question and having this discussion in a number of forums, no one has made a cogent argument that convinced me they were doing anything other than repeating what they've been told. Chauncey posted:So, is the contention that since a tailstock can be used for turning between centers; a drill press can be used as a vertical lathe? If that is the point, then yeah, sure you can do that; but it's not safe. The question is about drum sanding on a drill press. To put this in context, your worst case scenario is that the drill chuck might come loose while sanding and fall. The way I set up my drum sander this fall would be approximately 1mm. Even if it fell a few inches, it's still an acceptable risk to me. But since you are harping on this as a safety issue, I'm curious where you would rate this on a scale from 0-10, 10 being least safe.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 22:32
|
|
|
wormil posted:The usual concern is that lateral pressure will do "something" and cause more run out which is possibly a valid concern if someone would ever explain exactly what "something" is going to happen. Usually people remark that radial bearings are not meant for sideways pressure but that is not quite true. They are not the best choice but that is not the same. I am not saying that drum sanding on a drill press is okay, what I am saying is that after asking the question and having this discussion in a number of forums, no one has made a cogent argument that convinced me they were doing anything other than repeating what they've been told. It's not like the drill press is a radical new machine people are just now realizing the full potential of. "Repeating what you're told" is perfectly valid when you're pulling from centuries of practical experience. A machinist may not be able to pinpoint the exact chain of events that caused a grinding wheel to explode and impale some dude at the other end of the Boeing plant in 1948, but he now knows not to use it on aluminum. And it takes a special kind of arrogance to dismiss warnings from everyone you ask because they couldn't draw you a goddamn force diagram to prove that using a drill press as something other than a drill press is dangerous.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 02:29
|
|
|
at the date posted:It's not like the drill press is a radical new machine people are just now realizing the full potential of. "Repeating what you're told" is perfectly valid when you're pulling from centuries of practical experience. A machinist may not be able to pinpoint the exact chain of events that caused a grinding wheel to explode and impale some dude at the other end of the Boeing plant in 1948, but he now knows not to use it on aluminum. And it takes a special kind of arrogance to dismiss warnings from everyone you ask because they couldn't draw you a goddamn force diagram to prove that using a drill press as something other than a drill press is dangerous. It's arrogance to ignore warnings from people who can't explain what they mean because they're just parroting someone else and don't themselves understand what would happen or why? 
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 04:12
|
|
|
at the date posted:It's not like the drill press is a radical new machine people are just now realizing the full potential of. "Repeating what you're told" is perfectly valid when you're pulling from centuries of practical experience. A machinist may not be able to pinpoint the exact chain of events that caused a grinding wheel to explode and impale some dude at the other end of the Boeing plant in 1948, but he now knows not to use it on aluminum. And it takes a special kind of arrogance to dismiss warnings from everyone you ask because they couldn't draw you a goddamn force diagram to prove that using a drill press as something other than a drill press is dangerous. You misunderstand the situation. This is not a case where everyone says one thing and I am being contrary. The idea that drum sanding will harm your drill press is not universal. Woodworking has a lot of old wive's tales, there is more superstition passed around as fact than facts. Some years back when sandpaper sharpening became popular, many people claimed that sandpaper will damage the steel and many people still spread that nonsense around. So no, I don't simply accept whatever I'm told. If someone I trust tells me something, I pay attention. If someone I don't know tells me something and can't offer a rational explanation, I am skeptical. I will try to prove or disprove it. In this case I have not been able to prove it; not just today and yesterday but over the last couple of years.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 04:33
|
|
|
DIY & Hobbies > Tools - Toys for grownups (children too apparently)
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 04:38
|
|
|
All I said was that if your drill press does not have a locking collar, your arbor can fall out from lateral forces. That's why it is called a drill press. I even went to great lengths to explain this. The implications go beyond using a drum sander. Sure it's most likely going to just drop onto the table harmlessly if it does in fact fall out. Just making sure the uninitiated understand that without positive retention, side forces may cause whatever tool you decide to stick in your drill press spindle to fall out. Let me reiterate for the dense crowd. Use your drill press as a mill, wire wheel, sander, grinder, or whatever. Lord knows I have. But be aware that the spinny thing can remove itself unexpectedly. Using your drill press to mill steel would be more likely to make your spinny thing fall out than drum sanding would, but the possibility is there. If you are aware of this failing, you can more safely use your drill press in a manner it was not intended for. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Jul 6, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 04:45
|
|
|
Chauncey posted:Let me reiterate for the dense crowd. You've posted the same thing 5 times, we get it, we got it the first time, it's just that no one really believes the drum sander is going to "fly out" of the chuck and hurt someone.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 05:07
|
|
|
Hey speaking of drill presses!!! Used mine for the first time last night and noticed it's out of round. Any tips on how to adjust that?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 07:18
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Hey speaking of drill presses!!! Used mine for the first time last night and noticed it's out of round. Any tips on how to adjust that? What? It has big run out?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 07:54
|
|
|
Ah right, runout is the term in english. Noticed the drill bit wobbled back and forth. Already googled my way to some suggestions here: http://vintagemachinery.org/files/PDF/FAQ/drill_press_tune-up.pdf
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 08:40
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Ah right, runout is the term in english. Noticed the drill bit wobbled back and forth. Already googled my way to some suggestions here: Double check the bit isn't bent and is in the chuck properly. Another trick is to measure the run out cold, than measure it hot after the drill has been left running for an hour. If its decreased a measurable amount its usually the spindle bearings.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 09:30
|
|
|
For those who are doomed with plaster walls, what's your preferred method of cutting into them? I have button board & plaster and have needed to replace a couple of sole plates because of termite damage. My go-to so far for opening up the wall has been a multi tool with a but cutting plunge blade, but holy poo poo does plaster eat up those blades. I've cut probably 16ft of plaster in total and burned through 4-5 blades (which aren't cheap at all). I know there's always the grinder with a diamond wheel, but that just sounds like a nightmare of dust and chipped plaster.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 22:27
|
|
|
I am betting the trade-off is probably a pretty direct $$$ vs. lovely torn-up cuts seesaw.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2014 00:42
|
|
|
Sointenly posted:For those who are doomed with plaster walls, what's your preferred method of cutting into them? Rotozip + shop vac. They even make brackets to attach a hose to the tool.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2014 16:20
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Rotozip + shop vac. RotoZip bits don't like real plaster. The skim-coat stuff that some places use (like my house) it'll handle, albeit with difficulty. The old-school, 1/2" thick plaster... good loving luck.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2014 16:25
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:RotoZip bits don't like real plaster. The skim-coat stuff that some places use (like my house) it'll handle, albeit with difficulty. The old-school, 1/2" thick plaster... good loving luck. I mush have pretty drat good luck because I was cutting through plaster and lath with my rotozip just a few years ago when I was wiring a building built in the 1800s. Or were you using drywall bits when you tried to do this? You need the Sabers or Multipurpose bits if you want it to work.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2014 16:46
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:1/2" thick plaster... good loving luck. This.. It's actually kind of funny what the plaster does to the multi tool blades. It wears them so badly that what you end up with is a little metal spatula instead of a toothed blade. I even bought one of the $20 diamond abrasive blades. Used it for 10 minutes and had warn it down to bare metal. I'm thinking next time I might get out the angle grinder with an shoe on it and a diamond wheel. I know it's going to be a mess but i'm over burning through blades.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2014 17:05
|
|
|
Chiming in also that I tried all the different bits for Rotozip on my old paster; they all sucked. Heated up too much and went dull quickly. That said however, still have not found a better method unfortunately
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2014 21:41
|
|
|
Sointenly posted:This.. I used a cheapo HF carbide grit blade with my multimaster to cut a ton of plaster and it's still going strong. I gave up using it though because it was slow. I use an angle grinder with thin kerf blade and just deal with the dust.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2014 23:59
|
|
|
I just use a wrecking bar and redo the whole room with drywall  (though my house was so far gone that it wasn't an option anyways. I'd feel bad about tearing down walls worth of perfectly solid original plasterwork.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2014 01:17
|
|
|
I got 1/2"-plaster-with-1/2"-drywall-backer in my house (I got no loving clue why) and I'm still using the original plaster bit that came with the kit that screwed onto the end of my Dremel. I only run it at half speed and go slow, and it's still sharp enough to use.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2014 05:21
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:I got 1/2"-plaster-with-1/2"-drywall-backer in my house (I got no loving clue why) and I'm still using the original plaster bit that came with the kit that screwed onto the end of my Dremel. I only run it at half speed and go slow, and it's still sharp enough to use. That's pretty impressive. My old house's walls were much the same, and cutting holes with my rotozip chewed up bits incredibly fast.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2014 07:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 06:21 |
|
|
Sointenly posted:This.. The multi tool can be great for plastic. Outlet cutouts for example. But blades really can suck. Some last just a few minutes.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2014 07:35
|
|