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asdf32 posted:The multi tool can be great for plastic. Outlet cutouts for example. But blades really can suck. Some last just a few minutes. Read all about blades on ToolGuyd, Stuey is doing a lot of testing (mainly cutting nails) with different blades. Long story short, Bosch is good. I'd like to try a carbide grit blade, but that's not that different than a cutting wheel on my grinder. More controllable, I guess.
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Jul 9, 2014 16:59
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Anyone know what profile of aluminum this is, or what it perhaps is cut from? Found it in some german forum (I don't speak german and I got no useful info from that place) and it looks like a real useful piece of metal for my own table saw (my fence is identical) so I could swap between a high and low fence. Move it back and forth as well for a short rip fence or full length bisenmeyer style. 
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Jul 9, 2014 20:22
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sharkytm posted:Read all about blades on ToolGuyd, Stuey is doing a lot of testing (mainly cutting nails) with different blades. Long story short, Bosch is good. The carbide grit blades on plaster are useless (well, it came from HarborFreight so ya). I second the Bosch blades. I picked up a few on clearance a while back but I save them for jobs where I really need to make a good cut. Any idea why these bitches are so expensive by the way?
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Jul 9, 2014 21:16
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stubblyhead posted:That's pretty impressive. My old house's walls were much the same, and cutting holes with my rotozip chewed up bits incredibly fast. Then you might be more impressed that I once used it to cut a hole out of the tile backer in my kitchen sink surround to put in a switch box for my garbage disposal. It cut through the tile and cement, but didn't do too great on the steel mesh. I had to switch to a carbide bit for that.
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Jul 9, 2014 22:29
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Delta (US) used to make one similar called a Unifence.
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Jul 10, 2014 00:09
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kid sinister posted:Then you might be more impressed that I once used it to cut a hole out of the tile backer in my kitchen sink surround to put in a switch box for my garbage disposal. It cut through the tile and cement, but didn't do too great on the steel mesh. I had to switch to a carbide bit for that. Similar to this, I got a handful of the red Diablo sawzall blades (the coarse tooth ones) at Home Depot a month or two ago for general demo purposes on my house and accidentally cut a half inch into a piece of fieldstone when I went through a sill plate faster than expected. Blade still works pretty OK on wood.
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Jul 10, 2014 00:19
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I had to cut a load of large-ish holes in a lathe and plaster ceiling and ended up just using a circular saw with a 3 for £10 blade you can pick up at Toolstation. At that price I don't really mind that at the end of the job it was more grind than slice. Worked pretty well, though as you'd imagine the amount of dust was pretty spectacular. The option to set the depth of the saw was quite nice though, meant I could be fairly certain I wasn't going to blow through any water / electric cables as I went on my merry way!
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Jul 10, 2014 00:35
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For plaster, I use an angle grinder with a diamond blade on it. Be sure to wear a dust mask and safety glasses, and have a friend with you to hold a shopvac hose next to the cut to minimize dust. You will still make a hell of a cloud of dust, but nothing is faster. If it is a small cut for an outlet box or something, I just use a cheapo drywall jab saw.
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Jul 10, 2014 02:18
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Sointenly posted:The carbide grit blades on plaster are useless (well, it came from HarborFreight so ya). The HF carbide blade works great on plaster (just slow, as any other grit type blade would be)
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Jul 10, 2014 02:26
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iForge posted:drywall jab saw. These don't work for poo poo on plaster. When you jab it into the wall, the plaster shatters, and you end up with a huge loving chunk that's broken off... and they can't touch the old plaster-and-lath walls. You'll vibrate the lath too much, and the plaster will fail. I love plaster's noise-deadening properties and the hardness of the walls, but it sure is a bitch to work on...
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Jul 10, 2014 11:15
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dyne posted:The HF carbide blade works great on plaster (just slow, as any other grit type blade would be) I have to respectfully disagree. Not only is too shallow to make it through both the plaster and button board backing, it wore out in about 10 minutes. The plaster had totally worn off the abrasive and it was down to the bare metal of the blade.
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Jul 10, 2014 17:19
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Price Check.. Selling my Miller 140 Mig with aluminum gun and one of by big tanks (can't remember size but thing is 5 ft tall and about 7-8 inches across). The welder is in great condition and the aluminum gun has never been used, the tank is about 80% full. What do you think is a fair price for it? My wife and mother went in on a brand new 211 for me and got another aluminum gun and some other fun extras. Selling the 140 to help pay for a plasma cutter and some more steel.
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Jul 13, 2014 05:57
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sharkytm posted:These don't work for poo poo on plaster. When you jab it into the wall, the plaster shatters, and you end up with a huge loving chunk that's broken off... and they can't touch the old plaster-and-lath walls. You'll vibrate the lath too much, and the plaster will fail. I disagree. Take your time on the cut and it won't disturb the plaster and lath. Sure, you end up with some slightly rough edges but its nothing that the box cover doesn't hide. Let the saw do the work like any other cut and you can cut through the plaster and lath or plasterboard with a topcoat with no issue. When your $3 jab saw goes dull, you throw it out and start again with the new one. I've been doing it this way for years, and have yet to damage a wall from the cut. I have, however, had small pieces that were already cracked and loose come off, but nothing that a little 5 minute mix can't handle. When you are working in a finished house that you would like to keep clean, using a jab saw versus a power tool can save you a good bit of time cleaning up dust. My house is plaster and lath, I can make a demonstration video if you would like.
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Jul 13, 2014 07:06
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Sointenly posted:I have to respectfully disagree. Not only is too shallow to make it through both the plaster and button board backing, it wore out in about 10 minutes. The plaster had totally worn off the abrasive and it was down to the bare metal of the blade. Well, maybe you got a dud (or have exceptionally hard plaster?). Mine has cut a ton of plaster and is just long enough to get through my 3/4-1" thick plaster and drywall combo walls. The HF one actually worked better than my fein one as it's larger.
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Jul 13, 2014 10:57
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How do you guys organize your hand tools? My Father in law had a couple of Husky 350+ piece mechanics tool sets that he bought on clearance a while ago. He brought 2 of them over to my place to fill out my hand tool collection. So i've never had this problem before, but I actually have too many wrenches combo wrenches now. I usually like to rack all of my wrenches on those craftsman wrench organizers, I try to keep it to one set per organizer (ie. Metric / SAE but if I do that, i'm going to end up using 4 drawers on just wrenches. Curious how you guys organize your tool chest.
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Jul 16, 2014 19:19
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I separate my hand tools by the material I use them with. One with sockets/wrenches, wood , concrete, electrical, door hardware, etc. I've almost maxed out my storage so I'm looking for a used heavy duty metal drawer filing cabinet. If you have a lot of dupes maybe put away your good stuff and use the husky tools until they break.
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Jul 17, 2014 01:18
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Looking for recommendations on a table saw. Just got a new job and going to buy myself ~$2k in tools as a gift. I have access to a really nice miter saw and very basic hand tools at the moment. Was looking at some of the Grizzly tables with riving knife but not sure of the varying capabilities and what I'd actually need. First projects are going to be a dutch chest, new bed, and custom shelving for living room. Edit: To add, need recommendations on basic hand planers and if buying a dust collector on CL is worth the savings. Also books on joint making, any other tools which you'd say are must-haves. Hand saws for jointing, vises, chisels,squares--etc. I'll likely be taking some joint making classes as well to expedite the learning process. c0ldfuse fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Jul 17, 2014 |
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Jul 17, 2014 17:00
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c0ldfuse posted:Looking for recommendations on a table saw. Just got a new job and going to buy myself ~$2k in tools as a gift. Paul Sellers' book is good for hand tool woodworking. It covers the basic tools used and describes making the most common joints, and there are a series of small projects to build up skills. e: And you'll probably get better answers in the woodworking thread, even though there's a lot of overlap here...
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Jul 17, 2014 17:42
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On tablesaws I recommend spending upwards of $900 for a permanent machine, one you will keep for a long time. I'm not a fan of the portable saws. Although the new small Delta is developing something of a following on Lumberjocks though you might have to put a little work into tuning it up the first time. For Stanley hand planes look up Patricks Blood and Gore website for a little review on each.
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Jul 17, 2014 19:20
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wormil posted:On tablesaws I recommend spending upwards of $900 for a permanent machine, one you will keep for a long time. I'm not a fan of the portable saws. Although the new small Delta is developing something of a following on Lumberjocks though you might have to put a little work into tuning it up the first time. For Stanley hand planes look up Patricks Blood and Gore website for a little review on each. Grizzly 0690 is on sale for $1375 delivered, which appears to be a hell of a deal. I have roughly $1500 planned for table saw as I want something I can use for a lifetime which will eventually likely include cabinetry work. I'm probably a month away from pulling the trigger on a saw. Regarding tuning it seems like a lot of table saws need this during initial assembly.
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Jul 17, 2014 19:44
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Hey guys, I'm just getting started with woodworking, but I have a ton of other tools. I have a circular saw only and have built a ton of crude stuff with it. I'm wondering, if I plan on procuring tools, should I be looking at new, or stuff on craigslist / in pawn shops? Where are the best deals had for tools you expect to last but don't want to pay a mint for? I'm thinking table saw, miter saw, sanders, bandsaw.
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Jul 17, 2014 23:31
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Best is local woodworking clubs.
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Jul 18, 2014 08:06
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I've had good luck with buying used equipment, I've bought hand planes, bit brace and chisels and a drill press for cheap. I guess I look for used first in a lot of things as it's a great way to get quality for cheap, the exceptions are cordless tools (and that's thanks to what I learned from here). I also bought my table saw used and it was a steal for what I got in return, but it has all the modern features that matter (the one that matters most is a riving knife). I wouldn't buy an old but otherwise great saw if it didn't have a riving knife. I am not sure if a 1-phase 3HP motor is enough for a lifetime saw either, but I dunno, I am used to more now, so biased I guess.
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Jul 18, 2014 08:25
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Pawn shops are generally overpriced, aside from the occasional time they get something so rare they can't get a price for -- I got a WWI Webley revolver from a pawn shop for about half what they go for on the auction sites, but your common tools/guitars will be drat near as much as they'd cost new. Though sometimes they have sales, so it's worth stopping in every month or so to check. Craigslist and even eBay can get you some good deals, if you find a seller too lazy to Google and find out what it's actually worth, and/or just wants to get rid of it ASAP, or in the case of eBay, has poor search-optimization skills. There's a website that searches eBay for common misspellings of the thing you want, you can get some good deals that way, because the average Joe just types a thing into eBay's search box and misses the typos.
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Jul 18, 2014 15:17
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Thanks guys! the search begins...
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Jul 18, 2014 22:15
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My fiancee's replacing her power wheelchair with one on which the gearbox is less hosed up - I'm wondering whether it might be plausible to use the motors for some form of homebuilt woodworking tools, but I know the square root of gently caress-all about electronics and electric motors - is it plausible that the motors from a wheelchair (the wheels of which aren't exactly known for going at the hundreds or thousands of RPM needed for things like sawing or turning a lathe) might be usable for making a bandsaw, lathe or jointer? They're definitely valuable, but I'd love to turn them into something I want rather than just selling them. Basically, can a low-rpm electric motor be turned into the sort of high rpm motor needed to cut stuff? (this may not be the right thread, I admit, but hopefully someone can help out)
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Jul 18, 2014 23:41
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I would think more along the line of sanders, but yeah.
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Jul 19, 2014 00:51
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Don't those wheelchair motors generally have pretty great torque?
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Jul 19, 2014 01:00
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AC motors have the wonderful property of having maximum torque at stall. From doing four seconds of internet searching, it looks like the motors in wheelchairs are brushless DC motors with a gigantic gearhead on it, which have similar torque properties but aren't nearly as fun. Fun would be using something like a 92mm AC brushless motor and throwing a VFD in front of it.
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Jul 19, 2014 02:35
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Bad Munki posted:Don't those wheelchair motors generally have pretty great torque? Generally they're high torque low speed, and these ones at least are brushed, I believe, because the brushes have been replaced at least once. A sander would be interesting, they don't need nearly as high speed... I'll break it down for parts and retain the motors, I guess.
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Jul 19, 2014 08:57
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So I was at the local wood working store yesterday and picked up a Dewalt DCF610S2 screwdriver kit on sale for $30. Got the driver, one battery, charger, and a bag as part of the deal. So all in all, great deal. Love 12v tools, love that Dewalt is in the 12v game and this finally gives me an excuse to buy more Dewalt tools. The only down side to this is trying to figure out when i'd realistically choose a cordless screwdriver over an impact.
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Jul 22, 2014 16:46
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Sointenly posted:The only down side to this is trying to figure out when i'd realistically choose a cordless screwdriver over an impact. When you're assembling Ikea furniture in your new apartment at midnight.
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Jul 22, 2014 16:48
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Are there any meaningful differences between caulk guns? We just bought a new house and there's lots and lots of caulking that needs to be done. Bathtub, sink, many of the exterior windows, hairline cracks in a cement pad in the back, etc.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:41
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powderific posted:Are there any meaningful differences between caulk guns? We just bought a new house and there's lots and lots of caulking that needs to be done. Bathtub, sink, many of the exterior windows, hairline cracks in a cement pad in the back, etc. Get one with the wire that flips out to poke open caulk tubes. I have one without and it is a huge pain in the rear end.
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Jul 22, 2014 20:41
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powderific posted:Are there any meaningful differences between caulk guns? We just bought a new house and there's lots and lots of caulking that needs to be done. Bathtub, sink, many of the exterior windows, hairline cracks in a cement pad in the back, etc. Not really, other than a couple features like that wire mentioned above that I second is awesome. Another good feature is the cutter built into the handle for cutting the tip off of a caulk tube. Well, then there are the big tubes of caulk for stuff like driveway sealing that of course need a big caulk gun.
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Jul 22, 2014 20:54
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Even the super-cheap $3 guns from Valu Home Centers have the needle and the cutter. They've always worked fine for me, as long as you aren't too aggressive with them.
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Jul 22, 2014 21:37
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I've been considering getting a cordless drill and impact driver. I like the Makitas (read they use metal gears and such, not plastics) so I've looked at their 10.8v and 18v sets, basically boiled down to either of these: 18v http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-dlx2012-18v-li-ion-2-piece-combi-drill-impact-driver-cordless-kit-2-x-3-p68054 10.8v http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-lct204-10.8v-li-ion-2-piece-cordless-kit-2-x-1.3ah-batteries-p13929 The 18v is way more expensive, I found an 18v package at another shop for 291 euros but it had 1.5ah batteries, the more expensive one has 3ah batteries and maybe they're worth the extra money in the long run. Question is do I need 18v? I got a 3.6v cheapo li-ion screwdriver that works pretty well for most light use in the house, but it's too weak for a lot of stuff and we're gonna be building a terrace soon for our house and after that I'll want some tools for daily, semi-daily use in my workshop. Just wondering if the heavier 18v will be tiresome in the long run and a lighter 10.8v is better for daily use?
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Jul 23, 2014 07:55
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His Divine Shadow posted:I've been considering getting a cordless drill and impact driver. I like the Makitas (read they use metal gears and such, not plastics) so I've looked at their 10.8v and 18v sets, basically boiled down to either of these: I got the 18v kit that also included the circular saw and I've been very happy with it after a few projects, but I can't speak to the 10.8v version.
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Jul 23, 2014 15:39
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powderific posted:Are there any meaningful differences between caulk guns? We just bought a new house and there's lots and lots of caulking that needs to be done. Bathtub, sink, many of the exterior windows, hairline cracks in a cement pad in the back, etc. lovely guns have short grips without proper finger indentations. I have two, one $4 job with a short handle and mild indentations, and a $11 contractor one and the longer grip with proper finger grip makes ALL the difference in the world when you spend a whole day caulking trim work.
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Jul 23, 2014 17:56
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His Divine Shadow posted:I've been considering getting a cordless drill and impact driver. I like the Makitas (read they use metal gears and such, not plastics) so I've looked at their 10.8v and 18v sets, basically boiled down to either of these: I paid $289 US for my 18v kit + 3.0ah batteries- I really like this kit. The optional LED flashlight is just plain amazing for $38.
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Jul 23, 2014 19:22
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