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Deleted some stuff about me mixing up the frog with the lever cap, that was all wrong, it might be frog now that you say it. I'll look into it. I'll have to ask the manufacturer if the thing can be adjusted. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 19:39
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If the blade is moving back up, then your lever cap isn't on tight enough. When locking it in, it should almost "snap" down. Shouldn't take a ton of force, but it shouldn't just clasp down like nothing. Try tightening the cap screw a quarter turn at a time and see if it helps. You should still be able to adjust the blade depth with it locked in, but it shouldn't move freely.
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Jul 7, 2014 19:44
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Did a GIS on the table saw name and I see a lot of models that, from what I can tell, has the blade as near one side as mine does, mostly the older models. Newer models seem to not have it as near the side, the whole slot is wider on them so I think it's part of the redesign of the saw through the years.
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Jul 7, 2014 19:58
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Is there an exploded parts diagram in those manuals anywhere? I've seen blades that close to iron tables, but ONLY on sliding table saws like Tannewitz and such.
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Jul 8, 2014 00:43
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My concern would be that if the blade deflected at all, instead of running into the relatively forgiving throat plate, it'd hit the nice hard steel of the table and probably send bits of saw blade flying everywhere.
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Jul 8, 2014 02:00
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You're probably missing an arbor washer on the inboard side of the arbor.
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Jul 8, 2014 02:05
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Cobalt60 posted:Is there an exploded parts diagram in those manuals anywhere? Well it is a sliding table saw, it's just disassembled at the moment. Edit rather than two posts: Bad Munki posted:My concern would be that if the blade deflected at all, instead of running into the relatively forgiving throat plate, it'd hit the nice hard steel of the table and probably send bits of saw blade flying everywhere. There is a gap, just a very slight one, so it can deflect some without doing that. But there are small marks on the inside of the "mouth" that shows it has happened before during it's life, perhaps this is the reason for the rather beefy and large stabilizers. I think I can put a surplus 20mm arbor reducer on the inside but that would be all I could use, the nut would then have zero clearance on the arbor. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 09:16 on Jul 8, 2014 |
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Jul 8, 2014 09:05
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I'm repairing some chairs that have had glued joints fail. One of them has a broken beam that I think someone attempted to repair in the past, it looks like it was glued but no adequately clamped. Here's a lovely picture: I want to clamp these pieces back together but there is a thick layer of wood glue on one of them that prevents a tight fit. Is there anything I can do to remove it? I have access to a bunch of solvents if that will soften it without damaging the wood. I managed to chip out a piece but I don't think that will work for all of it. I don't know what type of glue was used but it looks like it cured white, I don't think it was epoxy.
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Jul 9, 2014 02:32
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You can try white vinegar. Soak a rag and stuff it in there, lightly clamp if needed to make sure it is touching all the inside surfaces. That may dissolve or at least loosen the glue enough to make scraping or chiseling it out easier. Depending on what type of glue it is, heat can also loosen it. With that ragged of a surface though, you will likely have to chisel some out regardless. As far as re-gluing it, it depends on how big of a void there is in between the pieces after you get the glue out. You may need some putty (if it is small enough, you can get away with making your own, sawdust + glue).
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Jul 9, 2014 14:05
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I got a new job with a massive pay bump and was deciding between finally buying my own tools, a motorcycle, and a tattoo as a gift to myself. From this post you should guess what I've chosen. Right now I have nothing outside of simple drills and hand tools. I live in an apartment but will be there for another 3 years as GF is finishing professional school and have plenty of space in an open basement to set up a shop. First purchase was thinking toolbox and table saw. Another guy in the apartment has a great chop saw to use which I'll probably mount to a shared workbench I'll be building. I'm open to all advice on both toolbox and table saws, budget is ~$1500-2000. I'll also want to build something to start storing my stains/varnishes/clamps/etc. First projects will be building a new bed and custom shelving for the living room. loving stoked to finally get to a point in my life where I can afford to build my workshop and make projects easier.
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Jul 9, 2014 19:05
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c0ldfuse posted:I got a new job with a massive pay bump and was deciding between finally buying my own tools, a motorcycle, and a tattoo as a gift to myself. From this post you should guess what I've chosen. I too live in an apartment (only for one more week) and I am just curious about how you are going to store this tablesaw. Are you renting a single or two car garage or what?
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Jul 9, 2014 21:31
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Crotch Fruit posted:I too live in an apartment (only for one more week) and I am just curious about how you are going to store this tablesaw. Are you renting a single or two car garage or what? There is an open floor basement of ~1200sq ft minus space for pillars, washer, dryer, bike rack. The three units each have their own 10ft x 10ft storage space separate from this as well. Ill have to move the bike racks (which I built) and there is a guy in the 3rd unit who has a good workbench set up already and said he'd be happy to juggle the space he uses around to fit in more equipment (he has let me use his ~$600 miter saw whenever I need it). c0ldfuse fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jul 9, 2014 22:46
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bimmian posted:You can try white vinegar. Soak a rag and stuff it in there, lightly clamp if needed to make sure it is touching all the inside surfaces. That may dissolve or at least loosen the glue enough to make scraping or chiseling it out easier. Depending on what type of glue it is, heat can also loosen it. With that ragged of a surface though, you will likely have to chisel some out regardless. As far as re-gluing it, it depends on how big of a void there is in between the pieces after you get the glue out. You may need some putty (if it is small enough, you can get away with making your own, sawdust + glue). Isopropyl alcohol softened it up enough that I could peel off big pieces with a screwdriver. I still have a ~1.5mm gap when pressing the two pieces together but maybe I can work with that.
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Jul 10, 2014 00:21
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That's too big a gap for most glues to make up, so I'd be thinking epoxy for that sort of repair.
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Jul 10, 2014 02:58
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Got another question about refinishing old doors. Why am I putting myself through this? But also, when I am using the belt sander on the doors to remove the poly, the poly keeps getting sort of gummed up, and I end up with long streaks of gummy goo all over the door, and then the belt gets all gummed up and useless. Am I correct in thinking this is related to the belt getting too hot, or does old poly just do that? Any way to avoid it?
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Jul 10, 2014 03:24
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Slugworth posted:Got another question about refinishing old doors. Add in wood windows and all the frames and I'm right there with you  quote:But also, when I am using the belt sander on the doors to remove the poly, the poly keeps getting sort of gummed up, and I end up with long streaks of gummy goo all over the door, and then the belt gets all gummed up and useless. Am I correct in thinking this is related to the belt getting too hot, or does old poly just do that? Any way to avoid it? It might be the belt getting too hot. My refinishing efforts have involved a heat gun stripping off most of the paint and then using a random orbital to get the underlying varnish and stain off. I haven't had gumming issues like you describe so maybe the belt is hot?
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Jul 10, 2014 03:27
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Stultus Maximus posted:Add in wood windows and all the frames and I'm right there with you Thankfully the belt sander has had no issue with any of the trim so far. Just the doors for whatever reason. And whoever suggested a steel brush for detail work earlier - You are a wonderful person.
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Jul 10, 2014 04:03
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Slugworth posted:Oh yeah, I am doing every bit of trim in the house as well. 3-piece 7" oak base, casing, doors, window jams. I have given myself a little respite, in that I will only do the windows themselves at the very end, and only if I have it in me. They are hidden behind blinds, so gently caress it. Use brass rather than steel. Not just because steel is harsher, but it also can leave particles that rust. All my windows were painted and caulked shut so I have no choice but to do that first.
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Jul 10, 2014 04:05
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c0ldfuse posted:Right now I have nothing outside of simple drills and hand tools. Depends on whether you want to go down the hand tool or power tool route. I would recommend using power tools to dimensions your rough lumber at least, you can do it with hand tools but it's a lot more effort and time. I think everyone should be proficient with a set of chisels and and saws. They can cover 80% of all the work you do, and will get you to understand grain structure a lot better. After all that, the router is probably the most versatile tool I can think of. Add a router table and that increases a lot more. I'm onto my second homemade table, after I outgrew the first scrap of plywood clamped today my bench.
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Jul 10, 2014 06:18
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Tim Thomas posted:That's too big a gap for most glues to make up, so I'd be thinking epoxy for that sort of repair. Hmmm. Thanks for this. I'll try clamping the poo poo out of it before I decide anything, I may be able to press them further together. e: thinking about it, there's no reason why I should be hesitant to use epoxy. It will even bond to any old wood glue left in the break. Will a common 2 part epoxy like Araldite work? the wizards beard fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 08:51
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the wizards beard posted:Hmmm. Thanks for this. I'll try clamping the poo poo out of it before I decide anything, I may be able to press them further together. Any 5 ton epoxy will work and also be completely overkill. The wood will fail long before the joint does.
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Jul 11, 2014 18:37
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Frogmanv2 posted:Depends on whether you want to go down the hand tool or power tool route. I would recommend using power tools to dimensions your rough lumber at least, you can do it with hand tools but it's a lot more effort and time. Yup I agree. Still looking for a table saw recommendation and toolbox recommendation.
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Jul 11, 2014 19:07
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Something with a riving knife as opposed to a splitter or kickback pawls would be my suggestion, beyond that I don't know much about what brands and such is available for the US market.
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Jul 11, 2014 20:07
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c0ldfuse posted:Yup I agree. Still looking for a table saw recommendation and toolbox recommendation. Forget the toolbox in my opinion. I picked up the dewalt 744 or 45 (whichever had the stand) awhile back and it's treating me right. Relatively small footprint. I did upgrade to a thin kerf forrest woodworker ii blade and it is worth it's weight in gold (saw no longer feels like it lacks in power). I personally have found more enjoyment building shop furniture for storage more satisfying than purchasing items( and the learning curve is a bit more forgiving) . This way you also get more experience learning to cut joinery and relative dimensioning in practice. As many have said before in this forum as well as others buy the tool that will help you complete your next project. Pick up some jet or Bessey clamps and some tight bond ii ( don't go nuts until there is a clamp sale) I would say build yourself some storage based on your needs. I.e. A workbench that has storage for power tools. Underneath. Tool cart for general tool storage, Dutch tool chest, whatever. All of these things have plans you can find online. Get a decent set of chisels and appropriate sharpening guides (veritas mkii is pretty good) and maybe a router plane ( a bit pricey but it's been a huge help. In my shop). Then... See where your needs take you. Make some pairing hooks! Get a small vise from rockler! Your needs will always adjust as your interest in the hobby grows Rereading your post would definitely recommend a rabbeting block plane and router plane for cleaning up joinery. Starting out with saws I constantly undercut and then refine my joinery to size by hand. But that may be just me. Speaking of.... Anyone have the laguna 14-SUV. Bandsaw? Thoughts on it ? It very well be my next purchase! Boombaclot fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Jul 12, 2014 |
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Jul 12, 2014 01:22
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Boombaclot posted:
I can't speak to the 14-SUV, but I have the Laguna LT16 SE and I love it. I seriously smile every time I walk by it when I leave my house through the garage. It has cut everything I've thrown at it no problem, and this is using the blade the old man I bought it from had on it. One of these days I'll one of those woodslicer blades for it.
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Jul 12, 2014 01:35
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Wedding gift for a friend, walnut and maple with bloodwood and yellowheart accents. I thought the wedding was next weekend but it turns out it is today, I realized that on Tuesday. Rather basic because of that, but I'm a fan of the simplicity. Spent a little extra time at woodcraft finding some nice grain, all the while one of the employees was trying to get me to buy one of the premade kits, that was a little weird.  I used butcher block conditioner instead of the salad bowl finish this time, I greatly prefer it. Goes on easier, dries faster, gives a more subtle finish. Brought out the grain wonderfully.
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Jul 12, 2014 16:29
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(I ask this coming from an ignorant background but interested in getting into woodworking soonish) How do you deal with moisture expanding wood? if wood grains expand even a little bit with moisture/etc, then how can you build complex items like furniture/etc where grains don't all meet ideally?
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Jul 16, 2014 15:56
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Falcon2001 posted:(I ask this coming from an ignorant background but interested in getting into woodworking soonish) Some information here http://www.woodworkerssource.com/wood_movement.php http://www.wagnermeters.com/wood-moisture-meter/wood-moisture-content-and-wood-joints/
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Jul 16, 2014 17:27
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Falcon2001 posted:(I ask this coming from an ignorant background but interested in getting into woodworking soonish) You are already way ahead of the game just asking the question. A lot of beginner mistakes are related to not understanding wood movement. I wish we had a book list in the OP.
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Jul 17, 2014 05:02
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I've been doing a lot of hand dovetailing lately. 
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Jul 18, 2014 16:55
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mds2 posted:I've been doing a lot of hand dovetailing lately. Nice!
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Jul 18, 2014 19:54
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wormil posted:I wish we had a book list in the OP. Wish granted. This is what I have so far: Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking 3 Book Set Classic Joints With Power Tools by Yeung Chan The Complete Woodworker's Companion by Roger Holmes Illustrated Cabinetmaking: How to design and construct furniture that works by Bill Hylton Traditional Finishing Techniques Understanding Wood by R.Bruce Hoadley I have more, related to more specific areas of woodworking like turning boxes, making boxes, turning in general etc that I'll be adding with some better descriptions. Please, anyone, list whatever books you would like to add the OP and I'll update it. Promise. I also had the idea of adding some photos of projects completed by forum members in the OP. If you have one project you're especially proud of just supply a picture and I'll put it in. I'll be fixing the OP up quite a bit. I already added a few podcasts, the books listed above, took out some dumb old poo poo, added a few extra supply resources (more to come, suggestions for any of these are welcome too) and will continue to do so as time permits. Finally, I don't think I've mentioned this in the thread but I had my first child about 5 months ago. I've been super busy with that, but now she's doing really well with the whole sleeping through the night thing so it's starting to settle down some around here. Besides the usual crib which I already have, does anyone have some suggestions for woodworking related toys I might make for her? I'm coming up pretty empty there. I've been thinking about making a wood highchair but I'm undecided on that. mds2 posted:I've been doing a lot of hand dovetailing lately. Sweet as gently caress. Love the top.
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Jul 19, 2014 03:26
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ChaoticSeven posted:Finally, I don't think I've mentioned this in the thread but I had my first child about 5 months ago. I've been super busy with that, but now she's doing really well with the whole sleeping through the night thing so it's starting to settle down some around here. Besides the usual crib which I already have, does anyone have some suggestions for woodworking related toys I might make for her? I'm coming up pretty empty there. I've been thinking about making a wood highchair but I'm undecided on that. I made my nieces and nephews a crapton of building blocks. Classic, indestructible, and fun for a wide range of ages (e.g. 1-year-olds can have fun knocking down the towers that Daddy built). Of course they also aren't very hard to make either. You can also make puzzles like the Soma cube and more complex things, but those aren't going to be really age-appropriate for awhile. EDIT: I made my blocks with a 1.5" base dimension. This is larger than most commercial blocks, but it's also handy because you can use 4/4 lumber almost unmodified to make half-dimension "planks" (e.g. .75"x3"x6"). Most of the blocks I made were 1.5"x1.5"x(3", 6"), .75"x3"x3", .75"x3"x6", etc. You can also through in a few dowels to serve as columns and the like. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Jul 19, 2014 |
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Jul 19, 2014 03:32
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I've got a 2.5 year old and a 5 week old, so this is something that's always on my mind in the shop. A few suggestions: A little wagon for to put toys in and drag around. They love that stuff. Any of the "waddle" toys that move in interesting ways when you drag them. Example:  The axles on the wheels are set up so the head and tail bob, and wheels are stepped so they hold the tumbler which just sits on top and the blocks just roll around inside. That one's a favorite, I can post more pics if needed. As mentioned, blocks blocks blocks. You can get yourself the appropriate router bits (a full set is like $40) and make a million train track sections. When you have your second on the way eventually some day, it's nice to get the first child a doll as the birth date approaches. Doll will need a miniature crib and other accoutrements. Got a lathe? Make a rattle. Make a mobile. Here's an octopus I made, had a local laser shop cut the plastic bits:  (post with assembly, the joint was a little tricky) Winter is coming, make a toboggan.
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Jul 19, 2014 03:50
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ChaoticSeven posted:Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking I like that you added it. Here's some input on the books I'm familiar with. Take it for what it's worth: ----- Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking There are a hell of a lot of books in this series. If somebody just punched that into Google or Amazon, they would get hit with a lot of different books, so it would be good to narrow it down. Joinery - Tied with Flexner's wood finishing for #1 most useful woodworking book. Excellent illustrations and photos. Shows detailed how-to instructions for every joint you'll ever need and when you would need to use it. What really makes it shine is that it gives instructions on how to make the joints with different tools. Instead of saying "to make X joint, use Z tool and ...." it is more like "to make X joint using a table saw, do it like this. For a router, do it like this. For a bandsaw and a jointer, do it like this." Shaping Wood and Period Furniture Details. Buy one or the other. There is a lot of duplication between these two books. Not just similar ideas, but identical chapters. Taunton is (to me) the best publisher of woodworking books, so it was kind of a letdown to see two high-priced books in the same series to have so much duplicate material. Furniture and Cabinet Construction and Box Making. Both very good books for specific types of woodworking. As par with the rest of the series, the illustrations and photographs are excellent. ----- Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner Tied for #1 most useful woodworking book I've ever read. Everybody just assumes "Stain and poly" is just the way you finish a woodworking project because that is the only option. In my very biased opinion, smearing stain ("RBS" or "Reddish Brown poo poo" as one usenet rec.woodworking member called it) is a quick way to make your carefully planned and constructed woodworking project look like poo poo. There are much better ways of finishing your project that will bring out the beauty of the wood and Flexner goes into great detail on the How and Why. ----- Understanding Wood by R.Bruce Hoadley This isn't a book you are going to sit on the toilet and read to pass the time while thinking of your next woodworking project. Think of it as "The Machinery's Handbook" of woodworking. It covers every technical aspect of wood that you can imagine. If you are planning on building a credenza out of pine and cocobolo, this book will tell you exactly what to expect for expansion and contraction movements based on humidity levels. It is a reference manual, and the best there is. ----- A couple nominations for the list: "Methods of Work: Workshop: The Best Tips from 25 years of Fine Woodworking" There are a few books in this series covering general woodworking ideas, router ideas, tablesaw ideas, bandsaw ideas, etc... All of the books are excellent. As the title says, they are a collection of reader tips from Fine Woodworking magazine. As I turn through the pages of the books and read the tips, I keep saying to myself, "drat, that's brilliant! I never would have thought of that." My personal favorite woodworking book: The Workbench Book by Scott Landis. This is a book that you will sit on the toilet and read until you have a dark red ring around your rear end from the toilet seat and realize the rest of your family has gone to bed without you. Each chapter covers a different type of workbench, but it looks at it from the perspective of "What type of woodworking is going on in this time period" and then goes on to describe how they designed workbenches to suit their needs. It will really make you think about what you need based on the type of work you are doing and gives a lot of information on vices (tail vice, end vice, leg vice, etc...) and what they are useful for. It also goes into a lot of the details of construction of benches, but doesn't have measured drawings or plans.
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Jul 19, 2014 05:13
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Almost set fire to my sawdust collection bin last night. I've been saving left over pieces of wood from the house building, it's some kind of rough looking laminate and I figured I could use these saw offs to make small boxes or such for nails and whatnot if nothing else. Well I cut them up into length last night and then I was gonna make box joints, only had time to start on the first cut and it smoked up like hell and it didn't stop even after I'd stopped the saw, the smoke came from under the table, eep! I was real lucky it didn't catch fire, I was all ready to throw water into my saw. I think it's Laminated Veneer Lumber, not useful for even rough woodworking it appears.
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Jul 19, 2014 08:33
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His Divine Shadow posted:Almost set fire to my sawdust collection bin last night. I saw a recommendation somewhere that, even if you don't have anti-fire sprinkler systems in the rest of your house, you should at least have them over your dust collection system. Stuff can smoulder for hours before actually starting a human-noticeable fire.
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Jul 19, 2014 15:22
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I'm thinking my blade might be in need of cleaning and that might be the cause here, had similar experiences with regular wood today. Gonna clean it tomorrow and see what happens, I still think the wood in particular might be responsible, maybe all that glue or something from the LVL got deposited on the teeth.
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Jul 19, 2014 20:36
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I'm getting married soon, and my lovely fianceι mentioned today that "instead of getting you the complete gently caress-off Omega that you mentioned as a joke that one time as a wedding gift, I get you a reasonable Omega and buy you a fuckload of Festool stuff? I think I'm allergic to dust and it can't be good for you, so you'd have to get an awesome dust extractor with whatever you get."  So, I'm assuming the loadout for such things is something to the effect of Rotex 125 + Domino + CT26, then replace the Delta dust collector I have with a HEPA unit?
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Jul 19, 2014 21:26
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Does anyone still draw furniture/woodworking plans by hand? I personally use sketchup to render most of my jobs for clients, but I've always wanted to be better at hand drawing when I'm in the conceptual phase. So I'm looking around for how-to books, just to get me into it. Any advice?
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Jul 19, 2014 23:52
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