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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Your ork is green. That's a huge problem, but not insurmountable. Taken out of context, this is the best line
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Jul 9, 2014 21:09
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Cross post from the terrain thread: Here are the results of some of my recent work.  I know its not miniatures, but don't neglect your tables people! Personally I love how static tables can be detailed, but I cant dedicate the space to it, so I always make modular terrain.
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Jul 9, 2014 21:13
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signalnoise posted:That right there is basically everything I want my not-orks to be, but can't technically achieve yet. So I need to pull away at least a color or two, replacing them with more neutral colors, and actually break down the figure as what parts actually need to be highlighted vs main color areas. I find establishing a colour theme is my big hurdle, but folks say as I get more experience with using colour it becomes quicker and quicker.
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Jul 9, 2014 21:15
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LumberingTroll posted:Cross post from the terrain thread: It still counts as miniatures if you ask me, or at the very least where they live/fight/die. Nice table, I'd be happy to lead droves of Guardsmen to their deaths on it.
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Jul 9, 2014 22:22
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LumberingTroll posted:Cross post from the terrain thread: Do you think that it's not related because you imagine most players setting up on a featureless void? Their LIVES are featureless voids, gotta have a solid planar surface to put tiny tin men on, though.
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Jul 9, 2014 22:48
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Weirdo posted:I find establishing a colour theme is my big hurdle, but folks say as I get more experience with using colour it becomes quicker and quicker. It's also really helpful to limit yourself to a small pallet of core colors, splashing in only when you absolutely must. And if you're really having trouble with color choices, find something you like and straight-up steal it. Most studios 'stock' schemes are done by people with a solid understanding of color theory, but naturally occurring coloration on animals and plants are also a great source. Here's the last thing I painted, and a source image:   These were speed-painted, and if you look closely you'll catch a lot of mistakes and flaws. I slobbed brown wash on everything, stole the scheme, missed some spots, and didn't even paint the rim of the base! There's a lot of knee-jerk "bad" things going on here, but the color choices really tie everything together and made something I'm proud of.
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Jul 9, 2014 23:16
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moths posted:It's also really helpful to limit yourself to a small pallet of core colors, splashing in only when you absolutely must. Great stuff! I've got some Mantic Undead I'm planning to do in a winter theme, with the Reaper bone triad for bones, and some deep blues for the robes (like their examples, only lose the red). I just need to mess around with adding some desert yellow for leathers, or using some oxidized bronze instead of steel for the revenants.
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Jul 9, 2014 23:38
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Beyond baller. I wish those guys could automatically generate their own dry-ice ground hugging mist.
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Jul 9, 2014 23:41
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Got in a hurry assembling my first painted warjack and ended up stripping a chunk of paint off the armor with a tny piece of green stuff left on my thumb  I can probably fix it, but it was a three-step candy coat and 'll have to mask the gently caress out of the thing to do it and it's a really awkward place. Don't rush your hobby, kids!
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Jul 10, 2014 00:55
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mr. stefan posted:Got in a hurry assembling my first painted warjack and ended up stripping a chunk of paint off the armor with a tny piece of green stuff left on my thumb pfft, just weather it more
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Jul 10, 2014 00:58
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w00tmonger posted:quick airbrushing question. It shouldn't matter, if you do a good job on the purple layer. You can always just do another pass of primer though. Vallejo Primer is really thin and it's not as if there's any small details to worry about. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 03:05
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 I rather like magnets.
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Jul 10, 2014 03:52
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LumberingTroll posted:Cross post from the terrain thread: I know I only lurk in this thread, but trust me when I say I used to have fully painted Dwarf, Empire, Skaven, Dark Angel, Eldar, Space Wolf, and epic Tyranid and Titan/Space Marine armies along with a Dark Elf/Skaven Blood Bowl team back in the day. That is some really great scenery, I would love to play my Skaven against someone on that board, sadly all my GW stuff is long gone. EDIT: I basically foolishy blew my college fund on minis, don't follow my example. I do miss my old metal Genestealers and all those weird Rogue Trader minis. The metal Genestealer Purestrains were the best Tyranid models GW ever made, they were so good. Dreadwroth fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 06:35
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How hard is it to dissolve cyanoacrylate glue bonds? Also, how can it be done at all? I'm just curious, in Hordes there's a faction with a unit that's fairly bad that comes in their starter box, but has an upgrade kit to turn the mini into a character mini that's very, very good. A friend of mine just started playing and doesn't know this kinda stuff yet, and I'm wondering how hard it would be to de-glue the mini and re-assemble it with the upgrade kit if/when he wants to.
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Jul 10, 2014 09:43
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Magres posted:How hard is it to dissolve cyanoacrylate glue bonds? Also, how can it be done at all? Cyanoacrylate can be dissolved with acetone, which is useful if it's a metal mini. Acetone also strips paint, so soaking a metal mini in acetone will remove both paint and super glue. Don't do this with plastic though. Super glue is also brittle, and can be made more brittle by freezing it. One tip I haven't tried but read about is to put the mini in the freezer, and then snap off the parts. Personally I don't find this very necessary, as most bonds with only super glue will break if you just gently bend or twist the parts at an angle: super glue doesn't resist pressure that well. So if I had a plastic mini I would first see if I could get the part to snap off if I gently pull the parts apart, carefully so that I don't bend the actual plastic. If that doesn't work, I'd use a hobby knife to make a small cut at the bond, and keep working with cutting and pulling the pieces carefully. That should do the trick unless the bonded areas are extremely large. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 09:53
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Super Clean will also weaken super glue bonds a lot of the time, while, again, stripping paint. It's sort of like weaker acetone that won't harm plastic. (In practical terms, I mean, not chemically.)
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Jul 10, 2014 10:16
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w00tmonger posted:Bought 2 shades of purple at the store thinking it would be a main color and a highlight to go with it. Taking a closer look it lines up better with my vision if its a main color and a shading. Would anyone have a link to this sort of technique, as I've always worked from dark to light and not the reverse. I'm using vallejo Hexed Lichen and highlighting with citadel Genestealer purple. I think you could also use a dark shade on a purple and then highlight over the shade with the same purple for a less contrasting shade.
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Jul 10, 2014 10:45
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Rulebook Heavily posted:
I really, really hate my foam carrying cases, especially when the mini is custom sized and I have no idea where The One True Slot for it is. It would be so much more easy and hassle-free to magnetize them into a box with a ferrous bottom.
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Jul 10, 2014 11:08
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JerryLee posted:Super Clean will also weaken super glue bonds a lot of the time, while, again, stripping paint. It's sort of like weaker acetone that won't harm plastic. (In practical terms, I mean, not chemically.) Post 9-11 User posted:I really, really hate my foam carrying cases, especially when the mini is custom sized and I have no idea where The One True Slot for it is. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 13:41
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So, painting megathread.... I've decided on a whim to try and paint some minatures, looking for advice. I've looked at some of the tutorials in the op, got a good set of tools and some paints, and some Khador Kommandos from PP. I'm going to stick to the box colours as much as I can with the paints I've got, is the following a fair enough approach? 1. Clean up minis, glue together and to bases. 2. Prime with spray primer (I have black). 3. Base coat the different areas of the models with appropriate colours, try not to go outside the lines. 4. Use a little wash/ink to deepen the shadow areas. 5. Mix some lighter paint for the main highlights and carefully paint on the high spots. Dry brushing maybe? 6. Paint the details (belt buckles, ammo packs, faces,hands, guns etc. 7. Basing What have I missed or what is different from this and how you do things? Thanks in advance.
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Jul 10, 2014 15:44
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BigHandsVince posted:So, painting megathread.... If you're painting a lot of red/yellow I recommend lots of patience. Apply thin layers and wait for them to dry between passes. I more or less painted as per the in book description, so as long as you have some steps in your head to progress on, you should be golden.
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Jul 10, 2014 16:06
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BigHandsVince posted:So, painting megathread.... I like this list. Like I've never painted before so don't take that as 'magres knows what he's doing and thinks it's a good list!' It's more I have no idea what I'm doing and I'm functionally retarded with visual art, so painting scares the poo poo out of me and having a step by step list like this soothes and calms my inner engineer. I like breaking everything down into step by step lists, now that I think about it, so I'm going to steal this from you.
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Jul 10, 2014 16:16
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w00tmonger posted:If you're painting a lot of red/yellow I recommend lots of patience. Apply thin layers and wait for them to dry between passes. Depending on the red (high pigment reds may be fine), but definitely for yellow, beige, etc. on a black primer, put a layer of gray on before the color you want. Bright colors show up way better on gray than black. It will cut the amount of layers you need by as much as half. Also, dry brushing is fine for a quick and dirty model, but it's not the panacea everyone thinks it is. It can be difficult to make it look decent and if you have too much paint on the brush can really make your model look like crap. As with everything practice makes better. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 16:17
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I enjoyed that informative post by cosmic muppet. What sort of search terms would I be using to look for if I wanted to read up on that? Articles or general theory. I suppose I could use a couple elective credits on art classes next sem but I'd rather not.
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Jul 10, 2014 16:39
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Post 9-11 User posted:I really, really hate my foam carrying cases, especially when the mini is custom sized and I have no idea where The One True Slot for it is. One thing I've found is that you don't need any kind of expensive rare earth magnet to magnetize simple plastic models like this (incidentally, the tray is a steel cut tray from Shogun Miniatures and I love it). 20mm wide magnetic tape does the job just fine. What it lacks in grip, it makes up for in surface area. It even comes in 25mm too!
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Jul 10, 2014 17:50
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I really love drybrushing for creating a metallic effect, but for best results I use a dedicated drybrush and some matte medium (helps keep the layers more transparent).
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Jul 10, 2014 18:36
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More minitaire posting with the color reference I made to assist myself with this ork project. I have one that is 100% bigger if anyone is interested.
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Jul 10, 2014 18:45
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Oh hai mister postman, what is it that you have for me?  
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Jul 10, 2014 18:52
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Magres posted:I like this list. Like I've never painted before so don't take that as 'magres knows what he's doing and thinks it's a good list!' It's more I have no idea what I'm doing and I'm functionally retarded with visual art, so painting scares the poo poo out of me and having a step by step list like this soothes and calms my inner engineer. I like breaking everything down into step by step lists, now that I think about it, so I'm going to steal this from you. I'm in the same boat as you, Magres. Engineer here, always thinking about the process. I will update with pics, just assembling stuff at the moment. If you add to the list, update the thread, that's just how I imagine I'm going to do it, I've no idea how it's going to turn out.
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Jul 10, 2014 19:40
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Does anyone have an idea of how to go about basing ruined city/rubble after the model has been glued to the base?
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Jul 10, 2014 20:08
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So, if someone were to do their vehicles up with color modulation, (Like this guy) how would you make infantry that matched? Assuming something like Deadzone Marauders or Imperial Guard, not Space Marines.
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Jul 10, 2014 20:13
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Signal posted:So, if someone were to do their vehicles up with color modulation, (Like this guy) how would you make infantry that matched? Assuming something like Deadzone Marauders or Imperial Guard, not Space Marines. Maybe some pretty bright, pastely colours? Dismiss attempts at painting "realistically" and use strong, bold highlights and clear contrasts. Maybe some black lining as well? Play around with it a bit and see if you can make it look almost celshaded.
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Jul 10, 2014 20:18
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signalnoise - great reference! I've been wanting to paint the tops of my paint bottles for ages, but it means putting a couple of drops of every color through my airbrush and I don't know if I can sit through that much cleaning in one night. And then when I'm painting the odd color here or there I can never be bothered. ijyt posted:Does anyone have an idea of how to go about basing ruined city/rubble after the model has been glued to the base? Rubble paste: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99P8Xz9yoGE
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Jul 10, 2014 20:23
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krushgroove posted:signalnoise - great reference! I've been wanting to paint the tops of my paint bottles for ages, but it means putting a couple of drops of every color through my airbrush and I don't know if I can sit through that much cleaning in one night. And then when I'm painting the odd color here or there I can never be bothered. The cool thing for me is, after I did that, I plugged them into photoshop to make a swatch collection so I can plan paint jobs based on actual paint colors I own, and while doing that I was checking the hues of all the colors. Turns out the black is actually a very dark blue, and some of the greys are dark blues or dark greens, desaturated but the color is still there. The browns were dark oranges, and the "sewage" paint actually turned out to have more blue in it than I thought. It's been pretty interesting to me to see what all the colors really are, and it totally jives with what TheCosmicMuffet was saying about using paints with different levels of saturation or colder/warmer colors, even in the shading. Like I keep hearing about shading with purple or blue to contrast warmer colors, stuff like that, and I think I understand it much more now. Or at least now I can refer to my digital swatches and plan my highlights with stuff that I might not consciously perceive just looking at the colors, but could work out in the composition of the finished product.
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Jul 10, 2014 21:27
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krushgroove posted:signalnoise - great reference! I've been wanting to paint the tops of my paint bottles for ages, but it means putting a couple of drops of every color through my airbrush and I don't know if I can sit through that much cleaning in one night. And then when I'm painting the odd color here or there I can never be bothered. Oh man that is an awesome channel, thanks!
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Jul 10, 2014 21:50
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Yeah, there's some good stuff on that dude's channel. Aaaaand now I'm going to be keeping every single tiny scrap of plastic, wire and paper offcut in yet another takeout food tub for my 'rubble basing'. My fiancee' loves that I recycle every bit of poo poo that would otherwise go in the bin. (she doesn't)
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Jul 10, 2014 21:53
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  I painted this little fellow to help make a very sick person a little happier. It leaves for the United Kingdom tomorrow. It's an old Ral Partha Chimera that I bought when I was 15 and have had sitting in my bits box for literally half my life. I knew I bought it for a reason, it just took a while to figure out precisely what.
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Jul 11, 2014 00:22
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Fearless posted:It's an old Ral Partha Chimera that I bought when I was 15 and have had sitting in my bits box for literally half my life. I knew I bought it for a reason, it just took a while to figure out precisely what. Listen, you don't have to tell *me* it's a Ral Partha Chimera. I could recognize a Ral Partha Chimera from 20 feet away behind a DM screen, 10 foamcore pillars, a wizard, a gnome, 2 fighters, and a GW terminator with thunderhammer and stormshield that someone is claiming is a paladin. It takes at *least* 10 years for Ral Partha pewter to mature into a robust and complex mini, with full body, hints of fruit, coffee, and soil. You did the right thing. Also, and this is *barely* related. Nice paint job.
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Jul 11, 2014 02:57
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New attempt at color management
signalnoise fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Jul 11, 2014 |
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Jul 11, 2014 03:10
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krushgroove posted:Yeah, there's some good stuff on that dude's channel. Aaaaand now I'm going to be keeping every single tiny scrap of plastic, wire and paper offcut in yet another takeout food tub for my 'rubble basing'. My fiancee' loves that I recycle every bit of poo poo that would otherwise go in the bin. (she doesn't) My wife catches me giving old bottles and scraps of packaging and plastic the once over and gives me The Look. And then I throw it away with a sigh.
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Jul 11, 2014 03:38
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