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1gnoirents posted:Sorry in the bios where it says "DRAM Frequency" Cool, ill try it out tonight.
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Jul 2, 2014 14:49
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Vrin can actually go higher and is a common roadblock, but 2.0 is a good moderate validation value to work from. It does increase temperature so its good to keep it as low as it will go eventually (and general lower voltage=better of course). Cache voltage has never really seemed to affect temperature for me but it does seem to improve stability especially combined with a fixed lower uncore. And uncore itself can make a whole setup completely unstable above a certain clock speed and there is very little benefit to having it 1:1 for Haswell overclocking, I actually like to start with that fixed to factory clock speed. LLC to "high" or "extreme" ... that's about all I can remember now though. I don't think C states matter. The ROG mobo you have (I think?) has a shitload more options that I don't know about too
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Jul 2, 2014 15:07
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Yea, it has a shitload of options. I have never messed with cache voltage so that could do it. Ill try it out.
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Jul 2, 2014 15:43
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Torabi posted:Ok so here is a picture of one of the ram sticks in CPU-Z, it appears to be at 1.5V already so I guess I saw something else in the BIOS. So all I need to do is bump up the frequency. Just to be 100% sure, by first setting, you mean the DRAM frequency or the one that is actually first, that AI tweaker thing.
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Jul 2, 2014 16:14
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Now i'm not overclocking but i would like to monitor the core temps on my cpu from the desktop, running an Intel i5-4690 on an Asus H97I Plus motherboard, Win 8.1. Are there any decent free programs that show such basic data?
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Jul 5, 2014 21:05
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Just Another Lurker posted:Now i'm not overclocking but i would like to monitor the core temps on my cpu from the desktop, running an Intel i5-4690 on an Asus H97I Plus motherboard, Win 8.1. I use RealTemp, personally.
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Jul 5, 2014 21:15
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Hace posted:I use RealTemp, personally. Much appreciated. 
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Jul 5, 2014 21:30
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Vs Coretemp?
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Jul 5, 2014 21:38
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echinopsis posted:Vs Coretemp? CoreTemp would bluescreen me 99% of the time with Win8.1
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Jul 5, 2014 23:02
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Just Another Lurker posted:Now i'm not overclocking but i would like to monitor the core temps on my cpu from the desktop, running an Intel i5-4690 on an Asus H97I Plus motherboard, Win 8.1.
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Jul 5, 2014 23:04
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Just Another Lurker posted:Now i'm not overclocking but i would like to monitor the core temps on my cpu from the desktop, running an Intel i5-4690 on an Asus H97I Plus motherboard, Win 8.1. HWMonitor does a decent job, works with Win7 so it should be compatible with 8/8.1
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Jul 5, 2014 23:05
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Hace posted:CoreTemp would bluescreen me 99% of the time with Win8.1 Wow, CoreTemp started loving with me in the last few weeks. I've had it running just fine on Windows 8 and 8.1 since last December or so, on probably at least 3 builds. Out of the blue it never works. Everytime it starts it essentially locks up explorer.exe after making it crawl for a minute. Then I can't see content of any windows (such as the task manager), and I'm not able to reboot. Although I am able to use other programs from icons. I've reinstalled it of course but never got much further than that. It was very  but I haven't had a lot of computer time either so I just sort of forgot about it.
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Jul 6, 2014 03:01
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Just Another Lurker posted:Now i'm not overclocking but i would like to monitor the core temps on my cpu from the desktop, running an Intel i5-4690 on an Asus H97I Plus motherboard, Win 8.1. When I am slackly overclocking my i5 2550k, I just let Asus` own "AI Suite II" adjust crap on the fly, recently it keeps me at a steady sub 4000mhz as I have been lazy in dusting my old machine.   I can get it much higher than that, pretty stable as well, however, I think everything needs a nice clean, an application of noctua guck and maybe a little more actual fine tuning. staberind fucked around with this message at 11:06 on Jul 6, 2014 |
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Jul 6, 2014 03:50
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1gnoirents posted:Wow, CoreTemp started loving with me in the last few weeks. Just this past week I had the same exact issue. It's probably a Windows update or coretemp update issue, but instead of trying to look for a solution I just switched to HWMonitor. 
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Jul 6, 2014 04:00
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Why are the recommended voltage limits for Intel parts so low? I grabbed an unlocked Pentium to see what it was capable of, and I'm seeing that if I want it to last at all that voltage should stay under 1.4V. Meanwhile, over on the AMD side it looks like they're shipping the FX-9xxx parts above 1.9 Vcore in default factory settings. Are we being way too conservative, or is AMD replacing lots of chips under warranty?
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Jul 10, 2014 16:29
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Twerk from Home posted:Why are the recommended voltage limits for Intel parts so low? I grabbed an unlocked Pentium to see what it was capable of, and I'm seeing that if I want it to last at all that voltage should stay under 1.4V. Meanwhile, over on the AMD side it looks like they're shipping the FX-9xxx parts above 1.9 Vcore in default factory settings. Are we being way too conservative, or is AMD replacing lots of chips under warranty? They are completely different architectures and cpus. It isn't something you can really compare. Also keep in mind the stock voltage for a 9xxx is 1.5v. An intel haswell will hapilly put along at .8-1.1v before overclocking.
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Jul 10, 2014 16:34
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Don Lapre posted:They are completely different architectures and cpus. It isn't something you can really compare. I think this is also a great example of intel's better architecture and efficiency.
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Jul 10, 2014 16:40
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Definately, amd is just now on 28nm for their A cpus (fx are still hilariously on 32nm). Intel is going to have 14nm chips out this year or early next.
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Jul 10, 2014 16:45
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So it turns out my local shop has a single 4790K, and its an L4 batch that seems to be a great overclocker, with several people reporting 5Ghz on air. The available evidence seems to indicate that the brand new NZXT Kraken X61 AIO watercooler is now the best low noise cooler by a measurable margin, with both the pump and fans improving performance at lower noise levels. I was thinking of waiting for either news on a possible Samsung 850 Evo or another round of discounts on the 840 Evo, but I'm sorely tempted to just pull the trigger now. I was trying to avoid a gigantic case but it seems if I want good cooling and low noise the NZXT H630 case is where it's at right now.
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Jul 13, 2014 01:11
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Alereon posted:So it turns out my local shop has a single 4790K, and its an L4 batch that seems to be a great overclocker, with several people reporting 5Ghz on air. The available evidence seems to indicate that the brand new NZXT Kraken X61 AIO watercooler is now the best low noise cooler by a measurable margin, with both the pump and fans improving performance at lower noise levels. I was thinking of waiting for either news on a possible Samsung 850 Evo or another round of discounts on the 840 Evo, but I'm sorely tempted to just pull the trigger now. Just as an FYI, Swiftech's redesigned H220X is supposed to be available for order from their own website next week. http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2494&sid=10cf6795ffe3c21686608d154038e677&start=125
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Jul 13, 2014 02:04
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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:Just as an FYI, Swiftech's redesigned H220X is supposed to be available for order from their own website next week. The cooler master 240l is the redesigned swiftech
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Jul 13, 2014 02:22
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Alereon posted:I was thinking of waiting for either news on a possible Samsung 850 Evo or another round of discounts on the 840 Evo, but I'm sorely tempted to just pull the trigger now.
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Jul 13, 2014 02:40
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Alereon posted:So it turns out my local shop has a single 4790K, and its an L4 batch that seems to be a great overclocker, with several people reporting 5Ghz on air. The available evidence seems to indicate that the brand new NZXT Kraken X61 AIO watercooler is now the best low noise cooler by a measurable margin, with both the pump and fans improving performance at lower noise levels. I was thinking of waiting for either news on a possible Samsung 850 Evo or another round of discounts on the 840 Evo, but I'm sorely tempted to just pull the trigger now. Nice. The x60 was pretty awesome on "silent" if I remember so pretty cool they made something even better. I just got done putting a Kraken X40 on my 780ti (with G10). I forgot to plug in the X40 3 pin(power cable? I'm not sure what to call it) into the GPU fan connector. So for the time being I plugged into a system fan header on the motherboard and figured I'd use the USB control to just run some settings manually. I was a little confused about how this was going to work really. The connector is 3 pins that runs the pump and radiator PWM fan, so I guess the USB connector must provide the signal to ramp up or down right? Unfortunately I don't get any fan speed report back with the NZXT software or any control (I do get pump speed and it varies based on liquid temperature I guess). It seems to be running at the lowest speed possible. I'm not sure why plugging it into the GPU pcb would make any difference but I'm hoping it will. I'm not sure how the MSI factory cooler worked with a 3 pin fan header. Does the board itself limit voltage to the fans? If that's how it works, would that cause a problem with the AIO? If the power input is expecting 12v at all times and being controlled via USB, would this be a problem? The instructions for either the X40 or G10 don't really say what is going on. I also bent the poo poo out of one corner of the bracket with the screws that mounted it to the GPU. I could barely feel any resistance - some cheap rear end metal. I'm pretty sure I put a slight bend in the card itself from when I looked at it on edge but just backing off a bit made it go back. I've seen these cards go through ridiculous bending without incident but it still annoyed the poo poo out of me. Despite all this and the radiator fan barely turning over I can't break 50*C  edit: I'm blind I guess, it is a 4 pin after looking at a picture. So the correct way for me to do this is X40 4 pin connector -> GPU PCB. Then the integrated USB cable into the motherboard, and then plug the radiator fan into the integrated female fan headers. I guess I can plug in the G10 fan anywhere since I'd like it to run 100%. I dont know why it isn't working or reporting any information the way its setup now though Hopefully this 20+ degree drop will give me a bit more overclocking room. Plus I put some heatsinks on 
1gnoirents fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Jul 13, 2014 |
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Jul 13, 2014 02:47
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Don Lapre posted:The cooler master 240l is the redesigned swiftech No, not the Glacer. This is an entirely new thing. http://youtu.be/ls51dMQMwgo
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Jul 13, 2014 02:48
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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:No, not the Glacer. This is an entirely new thing. Ohh god drat, Wonder if that will work vertical.
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Jul 13, 2014 04:22
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Question about those "expandable" All-In-Ones, I assume you're supposed to pop it open and then add a reservoir and more blocks to it... is there any way to keep it as a sealed loop, maybe use some trick to bleed the air out?
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Jul 14, 2014 01:23
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Zero VGS posted:Question about those "expandable" All-In-Ones, I assume you're supposed to pop it open and then add a reservoir and more blocks to it... is there any way to keep it as a sealed loop, maybe use some trick to bleed the air out? The reservoirs are built in to the radiator.
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Jul 14, 2014 02:04
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cisco privilege posted:You'll want to manually set the DRAM timings in BIOS (if they're not auto-detected by BIOS when set to 1600mhz speeds) to 10-10-10-27 going by CPU-Z - See the #'s located from CAS#Latency down to TRAS on the right side of the memory table. Completely forgot to try and bump up my ram. But that reminds me, according to corsair's own site the timing thing is supposed to be at 9-9-9-24. I think at least. http://www.corsair.com/en/vengeance-low-profile-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cml8gx3m2a1600c9 Edit: Actually, you are completely right. That was another type. That I linked. My bad.
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Jul 14, 2014 17:10
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Is there a way to reset/disable overclocking using AISuite, or do I need to do it in the bios? I ran the autotune, and the best my DC could do was 4.7ghz@1.32V, and honestly 300Mhz isn't worth .12V so I would like to reset it and see if I can undervolt it instead.
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Jul 14, 2014 23:21
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Alereon posted:I was thinking of waiting for either news on a possible Samsung 850 Evo or another round of discounts on the 840 Evo, but I'm sorely tempted to just pull the trigger now. cisco privilege posted:840 EVO's are already going to be ridiculously fast unless you have really specific requirements or something. I can't remember if you already picked up a SSD but moving from a C2Q to that chip should be mind-blowing even if it won't quite hit 5ghz. I'm still coasting on my 2600k thanks to HT making encoding and other highly-threaded tasks a cakewalk. This is the parts list I ended up going with, I guess it turns out I hate value and built a Good Gamin' Rig  For the GPU I'll continue using my GTX 670 2GB, overclocked further using that Accelero Twin Turbo III, until something compellingly better comes along.
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Jul 15, 2014 00:22
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A bit of an NZXT trip report: NZXT Kraken X61: Has effectively no documentation, not even telling you what screws to use for what platforms. This makes installation a frustrating matter of trial-and-error. For LGA115x (LGA1150) you use the silver-colored standoffs in the bag, the ones that have fine-threads of approximately the same length on both sides. The black standoffs are for LGA-2011, and I believe the other silver ones are for LGA-1366, I have no idea what hardware you use for AMD. The CAM software doesn't appear to work (showing obviously wrong values for can speed and such, I did carefully connect them according to the directions). I think I'll have to connect the fans directly to the motherboard for can control. Edit: gently caress, one of my radiator fans has a bad bearing and grinds and vibrates like a mofo past 40% speed. Thanks, NZXT! NZXT H630 case: Overall pretty excellent, but its hard to get clean cable management behind the motherboard tray, it's out of sight and airflow but I had trouble getting my right side-panel back on because I didn't pay enough attention to cables not crossing eachother in the back. Only downsides is that the fit on the front panel is a little suboptimal, I had a bigger-than-acceptable gap between my optical drive and the bay cover below it. I was able to flex the optical drive down a tiny bit and shift the lower bay cover up slightly, but there isn't much room to adjust. I got the gap down to the point where it isn't obviously ugly with the side panel on and the case dark inside, but its still a big enough gap to fit an optical disc through, which isn't great. Alereon fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jul 19, 2014 |
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Jul 19, 2014 15:59
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Alereon posted:A bit of an NZXT trip report: That's weird they didn't include instructions since the install sounds just like the x40 install, or any asetek. Which are pretty clear about those which standoffs and holes to use. I didn't know what cam software was but after looking at it that looks pretty badass - if it worked. Maybe it needs the kraken software workaround http://openhardwaremonitor.org/downloads/ running that and enabling .net framework through "Turn windows features on or off" menu edit: sucks about the fan though. I found out the hard way that finding better replacement fans for radiators is very difficult. Well I'm assuming in this case you'd have to exchange it but that doe simply suck. 1gnoirents fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jul 19, 2014 |
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Jul 19, 2014 22:38
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Does anybody have experience with Noctua NH-L12? It's a low profile cooler that someone in the parts thread recommended since the Hyper 212 Evo won't fit in a Corsair 250d. I wasn't really paying attention until after I ordered it and several reviews are saying it's not much better than the stock cooler because the 4 pipes aren't direct contact and has me worried.
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Jul 21, 2014 23:19
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I guess I'd like some insight/advice/opinions. Essentially, I've been fringing on the idea of building a water cooled PC for some time for the benefit of my PC being able to tolerate 80-90 degree rooms in the summer and for my general enthusiast building purposes. I've had my eye on the Mountain Mods H2GO case, where I'd house either one or two radiators (front and/or back) to support processor and gpu cooling; I'm thinking something along the lines of a 4690K and a GTX770 (I can't justify the extra $200 for a 780). I've read that in a similar setup people can achieve 30-35C idle, versus 50 or higher in air cooling. Pretty significant. At the same time, I'm only ever going to run two 24" widescreen monitors off of a single GPU (I haven't seen any indicator of SLI being worth investing in to date) to mostly single-screen game with the 2nd monitor available for video streaming / web browsing. My other option I've considered is a Noctua processor fan and stick with air cooling. In either setup, I plan to fit the case with some 6 Noctua NF-F12 static pressure fans in positive pressure configuration for low RPM/noise and high volume cooling. My research indicates that the pump from the water-cooling should be the loudest component when the case is properly set up, or virtually silent in total air cooling. I've tried to surmise the pros and cons of each: Air Cooling: +Significantly cheaper: Only about $60 for the Noctua CPU fan/heatsink. -Won't be able to push overclocking or tolerate higher temperatures, especially in summer +Lower maintenance; no checking of fittings, or other water cooled related wear and tear -More of the same; less of that 'new toy to tinker with' feeling that a new experience water cooling would provide Water Cooling: -Significantly more expensive: Probably almost $400 with the purchase of blocks, radiators, pump, fittings, etc parts +As I've read, concern for system temperatures disappears. Overclocking capabilities skyrocket. -Higher maintenance required with yearly break-downs and cleanings, and monthly fitting inspections. +Cool new project! Oh boy! I'd like to think I've got things pretty well figured out with regard to what I'm paying for in consideration for each option. For some of you, maybe you're thinking I'm doing something like diamond-plating mid-range system that should otherwise be configured with cheaper solutions but I'm pretty set on getting at least the Mountain Mods case in either situation because I would value my investment: It's well built, supports future system building and insane amounts of customization all while supporting an American-made company which is kind of a rare deal in the technology world. And as silly as it sounds, the noise of computer fans isn't something I've ever been thrilled about so if I can get as close as I can to building a quiet(er) system, the better. So you can bet your sweet puppies I'm insulating this fucker with sound dampening material and putting those $18 Noctua fans in my case!
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Jul 22, 2014 02:06
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From everything I read if you just get a pre-build closed loop watercooling just for your processor seems like the best thing nowadays is you want to overclock. Much less cumbersome than a huge metal pointy brick that get in the way of a huge part of your motherboard. Next time I have to mess with my processor I'll probably get one of those.
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Jul 22, 2014 04:02
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Null1fy posted:I guess I'd like some insight/advice/opinions. Essentially, I've been fringing on the idea of building a water cooled PC for some time for the benefit of my PC being able to tolerate 80-90 degree rooms in the summer and for my general enthusiast building purposes. I've had my eye on the Mountain Mods H2GO case, where I'd house either one or two radiators (front and/or back) to support processor and gpu cooling; I'm thinking something along the lines of a 4690K and a GTX770 (I can't justify the extra $200 for a 780). I've read that in a similar setup people can achieve 30-35C idle, versus 50 or higher in air cooling. Pretty significant. At the same time, I'm only ever going to run two 24" widescreen monitors off of a single GPU (I haven't seen any indicator of SLI being worth investing in to date) to mostly single-screen game with the 2nd monitor available for video streaming / web browsing. My other option I've considered is a Noctua processor fan and stick with air cooling. In either setup, I plan to fit the case with some 6 Noctua NF-F12 static pressure fans in positive pressure configuration for low RPM/noise and high volume cooling. My research indicates that the pump from the water-cooling should be the loudest component when the case is properly set up, or virtually silent in total air cooling. Someone else will have to answer fully, but in my opinion if I'm choosing between a custom water loop with a 770 vs saving $400 with air (or just AIO for the CPU) and putting that towards the GPU, there is no question there. I don't think it'd be worth paying for a waterblock for a 770 unless you already had one and wanted to SLI ... maybe. Which incidentally is a very good SLI combo (towards the SLI comment) not that I'd recommend it. You wouldn't get much more out of a 770 with a custom loop water block on it. I'd have a hard time with the cost of a AIO bracket + cheap cooler, although I would on one if I were to SLI. Buy the single most badass AIO for your CPU and get a single, much more powerful card with a proven cooler with the saved money.
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Jul 22, 2014 04:30
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Null1fy posted:Air Cooling vs. Water Cooling Especially with two radiators your setup is not cheap: expect to spend $400-500 for the waterblocks, radiator(s), reservoir, pump, tubing, and fittings. Installing the parts is relatively easy and taking leak-tests into account can be done in a single weekend at most if you're moderately competent and read the instructions. You could buy an All-in-One for significantly less but where's the fun in that? Pumps are mostly silent when mounted on a rubber/foam baseplate: you're unlikely to hear it especially if you're rockin' six Noctua fans inside a noise-isolated case. Basically, it boils down to this: are you willing to spend up to $500 dollars and a bit of elbow grease to turn your PC into a bitchin' rig that runs cooler, quieter, and faster than anything on air whilst shrugging of summer heat? 1gnoirents posted:Buy the single most badass AIO for your CPU and get a single, much more powerful card with a proven cooler with the saved money.
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Jul 24, 2014 13:41
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Welmu posted:
Yes. I'm just looking at the pros and cons of what you get for the money in this situation. A proven air cooled 770 isn't going to struggle or be loud even if the ambient temperature is 35* though. It's hard for me to see the value in putting a water block on that. You can push it farther for sure, especially if you unlock the bios and overvolt. But say instead you put that money into a 780ti, it won't come close. Is that hugely overkill for what will probably amount to gaming on one 24" 1080p monitor? Oh yes But just comparing cost benefit etc, etc. On the other hand if you just want to do it just to do it because its fun, I wont ever think thats dumb.
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Jul 24, 2014 14:46
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I know that this is a stupid question about ancient hardware, but I've got a Phenom II machine with DDR2 that's blue screening, and I'm fairly confident the memory is bad. It failed Memtest 2 years ago at stock settings so I just bumped the memory voltage to 2.0V. The memory has a lifetime warranty, but it's OCZ which is no longer honoring warranties. Now I'm getting BSODs again, and all 4 sticks are failing memtest. I just need this machine to make it about a year longer, but I don't want to fry more hardware than I need to. Am I likely to damage my CPU and motherboard if I run DDR2 @ 2.3V, where it starts passing memtest again? DDR2 seems to be expensive as hell now that it's discontinued, but it doesn't really seem like a great time to do a new build, and the PII 965 is a fast enough CPU for this need already.
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Jul 24, 2014 16:17
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Not an answer sorry, but does your ram voltage have to be lower than VIN or CPU input voltage (or equivalent) in this case? Overall that seems high as hell to me in general but voltage on ddr2 for AMD is something I know virtually nothing about.
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Jul 24, 2014 16:48
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