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Yeah I live out in the country and travelling miles and miles to buy a tool for £2 cheaper is stupid. I buy online or from car boot sales.... Women always selling other halfs tools when he shags a cheaper woman!
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Jul 13, 2014 09:38
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Are those vibratey multi tool things any good? I saw an air one in a catalog yesterday at a not totally terrible price and was almost tempted.
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Jul 13, 2014 10:36
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General_Failure posted:Are those vibratey multi tool things any good? I saw an air one in a catalog yesterday at a not totally terrible price and was almost tempted.  More clarification please.
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Jul 13, 2014 10:48
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InitialDave posted:
That looks about right. Or there's the photo I lifted from their catalog and rehosted.  I still like yours better.
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Jul 13, 2014 11:08
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I don't know how well a cheap one works, but the basic principle is sound, they do what they say on the box.General_Failure posted:I still like yours better.
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Jul 13, 2014 12:13
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InitialDave posted:I don't know how well a cheap one works, but the basic principle is sound, they do what they say on the box. It's essentially the same way as those things they use for cutting casts off people, right? So long as the thing to be cut isn't good at absorbing vibration it cuts? I've just been thinking that if the tech is sound they'd be brilliant for things where a slip of a rotary tool causes headaches. Thanks for the idea for something to watch too by the way.
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Jul 13, 2014 13:39
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I could use some advice. This is a double-post from CA but I thought some of you clever tool guys might have insight.quote:So I am finally on reassembly of the C14 after the valve clearance job and I have a bit of an issue I can see coming up.
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Jul 13, 2014 15:55
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General_Failure posted:It's essentially the same way as those things they use for cutting casts off people, right? So long as the thing to be cut isn't good at absorbing vibration it cuts? I've just been thinking that if the tech is sound they'd be brilliant for things where a slip of a rotary tool causes headaches. It's also called a vibrating saw, and they're completely awesome. My dad uses one all the time when making cabinets for electronics or when installing stuff in cars. Very often you have to saw holes in plastic panels, and it's so much faster and neater than using a reciprocating saw. We've used it to adjust window moldings on their house, precision joinery cuts when building speakers etc., it has like a million uses. Most of them come with a sanding attachment that works really well, too.
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Jul 13, 2014 16:13
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slidebite posted:I could use some advice. This is a double-post from CA but I thought some of you clever tool guys might have insight.
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Jul 13, 2014 17:57
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I like the thought and you're giving me an idea because I don't have a crow foot. I could use an open ended wrench with a standard 1/4" bit and adapt that to the torque wrench. The torque values will be out because it'll be a few inches longer, but I could probably turn it down and be close... Either that or I'm thinking of just marking the # of turns after it seats on one that I can get to, maybe I'll do a combination just to cover my bases. So if we go by your method, If the small open wrench is, say, 3" long and the torque wrench is about 18" long, would I have to decrease the torque value by approx 1/6th (3 divided into 18) because the combined wrench is longer? Make sense or am I over analyzing it?
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Jul 13, 2014 18:26
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Tindjin posted:Price Check.. I bought my 135 with a 150 tank for $400. On one side of the spectrum, the aluminium gun is laughable on a 140- unless all you are planning on doing is thing gauge panel work. On the other side, someone would probably happily give you $800 for welder/gun/tank. Any more then that and your approaching entering into a 211, which is IMO, an amazing little machine for light duty fab/home use. I actually want another 120v machine at somepoint just for .023 wire + bodywork.
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Jul 13, 2014 18:40
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If I'm doing my math and physics right, you would have to multiply the torque by the ratio of the length of the torque wrench to the length of the torque wrench plus open ended wrench. So with 3" and 18", it would the final torque you are looking for (100 in-lb?) times 18 divided by 21. That means setting your torque wrench to 85.7% of the final torque (85.7 in-lb?). You would have to put the force at the end of the torque wrench for this to work. If you grab it in the middle, you are decreasing that lever arm and the numbers change accordingly (eg, 9/12=75% of final value). So, for the length of your torque wrench, use the distance from the head to where you hold it, not the overall length. This also assumes that the torque wrench and open ended wrench are in line. If they are at an angle to each other, the total length (21" in the first example) will be lower. That is the distance from where you are applying force to the end of the open ended wrench and you either need to measure it or do some simple trig to calculate it. I can draw a picture and give a general formula if you want. Uthor fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Jul 13, 2014 |
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Jul 13, 2014 18:48
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Uthor posted:If I'm doing my math and physics right, you would have to multiply the torque by the ratio of the length of the torque wrench to the length of the torque wrench plus open ended wrench.
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Jul 13, 2014 19:02
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Uthor posted:math That's close to what I figured too  I don't need to be 100%, hell, my torque wrench is probably off by 5-10% any but I don't want to over analyze it. Appreciate the insight guys.
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Jul 13, 2014 20:04
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Alright back to generator chat. What if I went the opposite direction on this--If I have a Generac installed, is there any way to make it run LPG or unleaded gasoline? Our natural gas service is eerily reliable but it would be nice to know we didn't need to depend on it in an emergency.
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Jul 13, 2014 21:51
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revmoo posted:Alright back to generator chat. What if I went the opposite direction on this--If I have a Generac installed, is there any way to make it run LPG or unleaded gasoline? Our natural gas service is eerily reliable but it would be nice to know we didn't need to depend on it in an emergency. Any quality fixed gasoline generator will have a readily available LP conversion. These conversions typically downrate them by 10-20%, but run quite well. The only thing to be concerned about is just how big of a generator you want to run and how big your tanks are. If the surface area of the top of the tank isn't large enough you'll starve for propane. This means there is no way in hell you're running a reasonable sized generator off of a grill tank, but a standard 100 gallon stand up tank should be fine for most applications unless it's really drat cold out. The big fucker at the fire house (I forget the rating, but it ran 2 commercial heat pumps along with other poo poo and was a V8 ford turbo) required us to use 4 500 gallon tanks (the kind that sit on their side) to meet it's vaporization demands during the winter without adding one of those scary loving vaporizer things that actually burns propane to heat the tanks up to make it vaporize faster. We have since switched to a diesel, but that's not really relevant to the size you're talking about.
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Jul 13, 2014 22:04
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Depends on where you live too. In town? Natural gas is fine. If your in the boonies? Propane all the way.
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Jul 13, 2014 23:22
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Depends on where you live too. In town? Natural gas is fine. If your in the boonies? Propane all the way. We're in-town and our natural gas supply is great. But I'd be kicking myself if I dropped 4 large on a genset and then an earthquake hit (New Madrid fault FTW) and we couldn't get power because gas lines were disrupted for several weeks. I guess for 99% of outages natural gas would be fine though.
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Jul 14, 2014 02:08
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revmoo posted:We're in-town and our natural gas supply is great. But I'd be kicking myself if I dropped 4 large on a genset and then an earthquake hit (New Madrid fault FTW) and we couldn't get power because gas lines were disrupted for several weeks. Rev, I know, as one of the more accomplished e36 owners you're assuming the worst and preparing for it but I think you're going a tad overboard here. If an earthquake massive enough to cause damage to underground NG lines hit, you'd have bigger problems like trying to find a new place to live for awhile than getting power to said structurally damaged structure.
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Jul 14, 2014 05:28
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Are there good covering sleeves for huge breaker bars? Basically, my last breaker bar just stayed under the rear seat of the 4x4, and was therefore exposed to huge amounts of dust. I just got a nice breaker bar (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=651014&group_ID=682694&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog) and would like to get a canvas sleeve or something to protect it a bit.
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Jul 14, 2014 08:06
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Krakkles posted:Are there good covering sleeves for huge breaker bars? I'd go to a fishing shop and get a rod cover, one that suits a small two piece or telescopic rod will probably fit. Or go to a canvas sewing place they could probably knock something up for a six-pack.
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Jul 14, 2014 08:13
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That sounds perfect! Thank you.
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Jul 14, 2014 08:49
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You can't spend 200 bucks on a breaker bar and just throw it in a bag. Get a pool cue case! http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Series-C4...5325465&sr=1-12
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Jul 14, 2014 09:14
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Krakkles posted:Basically, my last breaker bar just stayed under the rear seat of the 4x4, and was therefore exposed to huge amounts of dust. Are you worried about the dust damaging it?
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Jul 14, 2014 09:51
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KozmoNaut posted:It's also called a vibrating saw, and they're completely awesome. Your words placate me. I went and grabbed one today. I've needed to do pretty much all of these things that you said. So yes i grabbed the air tool version. At $30 it seems cheap enough to give it a shot. Plus I have a probably irrational love of air tools.
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Jul 14, 2014 10:13
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spog posted:Are you worried about the dust damaging it? Dust is extremely dangerous to Snap On tools. Grease and wear from use are also detrimental and must be avoided.
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Jul 14, 2014 10:30
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Powershift posted:You can't spend 200 bucks on a breaker bar and just throw it in a bag. Also ...  if you guys don't get why I'm taking better care of a tool that I plan on keeping. If you think dust in a greasable tool won't affect it, you're fooling yourself.
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Jul 14, 2014 12:10
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Krakkles posted:That seems a bit much. And it wouldn't help it fit in said 4x4. But thanks, anyway. Serious talk: get a thick plastic bag and you can seal it with a bit of tape or a rubber band. Not only does it keep dust off, it keeps moisture out. Plus, it is easy to wipe clean. Things like mops may come in suitable bags. And my Wii came with a good bag around the power cable. Or if you really want to splash the cash: http://www.amazon.com/ZCORR-Corrosion-Velcro-Shotgun-Rifle/dp/B00A2SMVAC
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Jul 14, 2014 12:53
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Harbor Freight Dollar Days tomorrow, I asked earlier but didn't get an answer. Do they offer these prices online? I'd rather just get everything at once rather than drive over to the store and see half the stuff already sold out.
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Jul 14, 2014 19:48
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Krakkles posted:That seems a bit much. And it wouldn't help it fit in said 4x4. But thanks, anyway. Spray it up with some WD40 or Fluid Film and you should be just fine.
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Jul 14, 2014 20:03
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Ziploc bag and a rubber band. Job's done.
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Jul 14, 2014 20:06
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I'd just invest in a pair of snap ring pliers and re grease the insides from time to time. Or yeah, just put a plastic bag with WD40 rubber banded to the head. Or hell, be classy and put a Crown Royal bag over the end.
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Jul 14, 2014 20:28
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SuperDucky posted:Rev, I know, as one of the more accomplished e36 owners you're assuming the worst and preparing for it but I think you're going a tad overboard here. If an earthquake massive enough to cause damage to underground NG lines hit, you'd have bigger problems like trying to find a new place to live for awhile than getting power to said structurally damaged structure. I get what you're saying, and you make a good point. I'm just trying to weigh my options here. The fact is that I have to prepare for extended outages because we've experienced them multiple times in the past. We've got pets and a reef aquarium that can only go 24 hours or so (less in winter/summer) before my house becomes a biohazard situation. I have to weigh hotel costs across 5-10 years (when Ike rolled through there were no vacancies btw) vs a cheap generator vs pissing off my neighbors vs a generac that costs twice as much as my car. It might be worth buying but I have to take all these things into consideration. Anyway, I appreciate all the input on the subject.
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Jul 14, 2014 21:16
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Krakkles posted:That seems a bit much. And it wouldn't help it fit in said 4x4. But thanks, anyway. A 24" length of PVC with end caps? Cheap, indestructible, can be filled with ~~materials~~and used to clear jeep trails in emergencies 
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Jul 14, 2014 22:27
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revmoo posted:We're in-town and our natural gas supply is great. But I'd be kicking myself if I dropped 4 large on a genset and then an earthquake hit (New Madrid fault FTW) and we couldn't get power because gas lines were disrupted for several weeks. You're worrying about this to the point of not seeing the forest for the trees. Most installed generators use NG because there is always a reliable supply available. I've never had natural gas service go out and neither have most people because by the time infrastructure is damaged to the point that NG can't be delivered people are already talking about evacuations (forced in the case of a gas leak). On the other hand, very few gas stations have backup generators so there goes the option to refuel a gasoline or diesel generator and LP isn't going to be much easier to obtain. Gas/diesel doesn't keep forever and to run an LP generator for a week you would probably need a tank on par with the ones people without NG service use. By not going with NG you're committing yourself to continually replacing the unused fuel you're storing on your property so it doesn't go bad, being probably unable to refuel during the emergency you're buying the generator for, and running the risk that the tank will be empty from the generator's monthly self-test when you actually need it (ask the guys at my local Lowe's about that one. Tank went bone dry and nobody knew until the store lost power and nothing happened.)
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Jul 15, 2014 00:59
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Krakkles posted:That seems a bit much. And it wouldn't help it fit in said 4x4. But thanks, anyway. The head is sealed already, to keep dust and crap out. Besides, Snap-On tools are made to be used daily, in conditions way worse than under a truck seat, and they still last forever. And when they do fail, they're covered by a lifetime warranty anyway. Cat Hatter posted:You're worrying about this to the point of not seeing the forest for the trees. Most installed generators use NG because there is always a reliable supply available. I've never had natural gas service go out and neither have most people because by the time infrastructure is damaged to the point that NG can't be delivered people are already talking about evacuations (forced in the case of a gas leak). On the other hand, very few gas stations have backup generators so there goes the option to refuel a gasoline or diesel generator and LP isn't going to be much easier to obtain. Gas/diesel doesn't keep forever and to run an LP generator for a week you would probably need a tank on par with the ones people without NG service use. By not going with NG you're committing yourself to continually replacing the unused fuel you're storing on your property so it doesn't go bad, being probably unable to refuel during the emergency you're buying the generator for, and running the risk that the tank will be empty from the generator's monthly self-test when you actually need it (ask the guys at my local Lowe's about that one. Tank went bone dry and nobody knew until the store lost power and nothing happened.) Store it in jerry cans, dump it in your car after a few weeks, and then just fill the jerry can when you go to gas up. Keep multiple cans and rotate them, and you'll always have some on hand. Or just use a fuel stabilizer.
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Jul 15, 2014 05:52
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EKDS5k posted:Store it in jerry cans, dump it in your car after a few weeks, and then just fill the jerry can when you go to gas up. Keep multiple cans and rotate them, and you'll always have some on hand. Using a Generac 8,000 watt generator as an example because size wise its on the low end for an installed generator and the high end for a portable, I found one that consumes 7.5 gallons of gasoline in 11 hours at 50% load. To run for a week (low end of what the poster was looking for) that would require just under 115 gallons of gas. That's 23 5-gallon cans to keep stacked up like cordwood and routinely cycle through the car because fuel stabilizer is only rated to work for 2 years and still won't really protect from ethanol induced problems (although those should be minimal since the cans would presumably be full)...or just get a NG unit instead of going out of your way to get a generator that is more work to keep ready and to run. That aside, one day I'm going to open a gas station that actually has a backup generator so during blackouts I can have everyone in town lined up like in Maximum Overdrive  .
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Jul 15, 2014 07:27
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:A 24" length of PVC with end caps? Cheap, indestructible, can be filled with ~~materials~~and used to clear jeep trails in emergencies This. Or if we're still on about the breaker bar in particular a thinner bit of PVC with rubber table / chair / walking frame etc. feet of the right size on each end as caps works really really well. Really I don't think I've ever seen a breaker bar die from environmental contamination before it gets snapped / distorted beyond use. But hey whatever.
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Jul 15, 2014 09:53
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revmoo posted:a reef aquarium  You're a brave, brave man, A) for even having such a setup B) for having one in a high power outage zone. I've got a buddy who keeps reefs and its some crazy, highly scientific poo poo. Ignore my criticisms, carry on.
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Jul 15, 2014 15:00
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revmoo posted:Gen chat Just a final thought on my end of the world. A backup generator could add or detract value to your house. I know at my old house, it was an addition to the home which made it worth more. And more than likely, you'll make your money back on it when you go to sell your house. I was contemplating putting a permanent generator on my house, but instead I just ran a couple of cords over to the neighbors house because he had a gently caress off huge generator to keep the sump pit going because we always managed to lose power during any sort of rain.
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Jul 15, 2014 16:00
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