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Pro tip: Magic Erasers are just melamine acoustic foam. Buy a tile, cut it with a utility knife or paper cutter, and you're set for years
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Jul 13, 2014 02:33
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uapyro posted:I have those growing all over my yard in Alabama. The only poison they are is to the sanity. Hmm. Any thoughts on chopping the vines up and spraying them with a brush killer? http://www.amazon.com/Bayer-704640B-Brush-Killer-Concentrate/dp/B001DKBDHK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Ehud fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jul 13, 2014 |
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Jul 13, 2014 02:35
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Ehud posted:Hmm. Any thoughts on chopping the vines up and spraying them with a brush killer? Oh, and it's called Wisteria by the way. By the looks of it, you'll need a lot. I've tried using UltraKill grass/weed/brush killer on it. It'll sometimes kill or turn the leaves brown on where I spray. But there's just so much of it that it doesn't seem to phase it much. While searching for wisteria and glyphosate (41% in what I have), it says to cut a major root/vine, and then put some of the weed-brush killer in a dish or cup and let the freshly cut part sit and soak in the stuff.
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Jul 13, 2014 03:16
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uapyro posted:I had this problem a few times before. It happened when the door didn't completely close, some stuff thawed, while the other froze over from the slight gap.
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Jul 13, 2014 05:17
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Ehud posted:plants For future reference there's a general purpose plant thread here in DIY also. I'm phone posting otherwise I'd add a link.
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Jul 13, 2014 08:02
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stubblyhead posted:For future reference there's a general purpose plant thread here in DIY also. I'm phone posting otherwise I'd add a link. Just found it. I went ahead and copied my post over to that thread as well. Thanks!
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Jul 13, 2014 13:12
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Zhentar posted:Mosquito trap efficacy varies significantly depending on particular circumstances. They'll certainly appear to be working, with piles of mosquito corpses, but they aren't always effective at reducing mosquito populations (and in some cases, they'll end up attracting more mosquitoes to bite you than you started with). The mosquito population last year was completely unbearable, and there was a large population of Asian Tiger mozzies which are terrible terrible critters. I bought a mosquito magnet, which took a bit to make a dent in the population but did definitely help. It came with Ocetenol attractant which worked great, but per the manufacturers recommendation for my area I switched to the Lurex 3, which was not nearly as effective. YMMV
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Jul 13, 2014 16:54
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uapyro posted:So the easiest solutions that come to mind are either a bobcat and send them to hell, or repeated dosings of gasoline. A 50/50 mix of glyphosate and 2,4-D plus some liquid soap applied on a sunny day and left for a few days before cutting/removal would go a long way to weakening the root system. After removal any regrowth should be promptly treated the same way. I wouldn't think it would last more than a few months if you're on top of it and do a good job with the initial removal. That's a whole lot safer and more effective than gasoline.
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Jul 13, 2014 17:28
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One of the circumstances is the particular species of mosquito. Asian Tiger mosquitoes don't like to fly more than a couple hundred feet from their breeding grounds to feed, so they are (in that aspect, at least) better suited for control by trapping, since a single trap can significantly impact the local breeding population (they're generally more difficult to actually trap, though, so you're a bit lucky there). On the other hand, Aedes Vexans, a very common night-biting pest, particularly in the midwest, is known to travel at least 7 miles, and a few species will go even further than that. For those species, your lone trap does gently caress all to the breeding population and usually just ends up making your yard look like a better place to look for someone to bite than your neighbor's yard.
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Jul 13, 2014 18:07
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How do I kill bushes between two fences? I can't cut them really and dig them up without taking the fence down. Cut down as much as I could, tried roundup, saturated in 24d now. Is there something else I can get that will clear it out and not have the soil ruined a few months down the road (don't mind for a few months). It also rains a lot here so the soil should clear out sorta quickly. Thanks
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Jul 13, 2014 23:18
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Christobevii3 posted:How do I kill bushes between two fences? I can't cut them really and dig them up without taking the fence down. Cut down as much as I could, tried roundup, saturated in 24d now. Is there something else I can get that will clear it out and not have the soil ruined a few months down the road (don't mind for a few months). It also rains a lot here so the soil should clear out sorta quickly. Neither glyphosate (roundup) or 2,4-D will "ruin" the soil. You can replant in 10 days with a proper application of either of those. And they are your best bet if you can't dig or cover with black plastic to solarize.
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Jul 13, 2014 23:21
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My kitchen sink has developed a leak. Specifically, the connection from the output of the garbage disposal into the trap is leaking. Said connection is a sort of conic pipe thing -- that is, it works fine so long as water flows in the right direction, but doesn't have any explicit seal to keep water from getting out otherwise. My best guess is that there's a clog downstream, causing the water to back up and escape through that connection. I installed the garbage disposal myself, so it's entirely possible I did a poo poo job of it. But it's been in for the better part of a year now and this is the first I've noticed any difficulty. Considering the amount of water that's leaking, I'm fairly certain I would have noticed it before; plus there's no obvious water damage yet. Can I just pour some Draino (or equivalent) down the sink? Is that going to harm the disposal?
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Jul 14, 2014 04:16
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I want to frame out a doorway in my basement, in this area: Ideally, I'd be lining it up where I have that steel stud in the floor (which is not attached) The door will come to just below the drain pipe, as seen here (I'll be picking it up off of the floor about an inch to allow for whatever flooring I decide to put in there)  Edit: yes, I realize the door is upside down, I wasn't paying attention when I propped it up for the picture. It will be installed the proper way, don't worry I know what I want to do for the left side, where it will meet with the "stair tower" but I'm not sure what to do on the top or the right hand side. I can't go all the way to the floor joists above because of pipes, and I'm not sure if I can nail something into that giant rear end beam for the right side support. (I'm assuming I can but I figured I'd see what you guys thought first). The pipes I have to go around  My thoughts on securing the bottom were to use liquid nails and ramset nails on the metal channel, and then lay the wood studs into the channel. Is there anything wrong with this, or is there an easier way that I could be doing? AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Jul 14, 2014 |
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Jul 14, 2014 14:40
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Can't help with the problem but for gods sake please put the door in right way up
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Jul 14, 2014 14:47
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I had my yard marked for stuff underground. Only thing I see I might bump planting some plants/fence is the phone line. If I have no intention of ever using it does it really matter if I did happen to hit it? Thanks
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Jul 14, 2014 18:49
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Christobevii3 posted:I had my yard marked for stuff underground. Only thing I see I might bump planting some plants/fence is the phone line. If I have no intention of ever using it does it really matter if I did happen to hit it? Depending on where you the line it could be a very big deal. The phone company doesn't have home runs from everyone's house to theirs, they have trunk lines and if you cut one of those you're screwing up service for a lot of people and likely costing yourself several thousand dollars. If it's just the line to your house they probably wouldn't know, but you'd be potentially screwing a future homeowner. That's if anyone has landlines in the future.
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Jul 14, 2014 19:02
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It is just feeding my house. How deep should it be? My neighbor wants to buy my lot later when I leave and move my trailer to his other lot to replace his older trailer anyways. It is really retarded and underground diagonal across my whole front yard. I'm just wanting to plant some shrubs and fencing. I should only be going down a foot maybe two by hand digging for reference. Shouldn't the phone line be at least 3 or 4 feet deep? They marked the yard but never the depth... Christobevii3 fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Jul 14, 2014 |
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Jul 14, 2014 19:08
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One of my friends has an A/C unit in his bedroom that's just a few months old and it doesn't seem to be cooling well. The room is 18x12 with a 8 foot ceiling, the A/C unit is 9800BTU. He says the compressor seems to cycle on and off more frequently than the old one did, and when it gets down to the set temperature it still feels a few degrees warmer than other rooms. He says it feel like less airflow than the old one which was also 9800BTU and original to the building (1967.) He also mentioned that at times he can hear liquid moving through it, which makes me think the compressor might be undercharged. It also seems to cool much better during the day than at night, which he suspects might be due to elderly neighbors on all sides plus above and below turning on their heat. I suggested that he put a fan near it to distribute air through the room more and see if that helps, is there anything obvious I should tell him to check? Christobevii3 posted:How do I kill bushes between two fences? I can't cut them really and dig them up without taking the fence down. Cut down as much as I could, tried roundup, saturated in 24d now. Is there something else I can get that will clear it out and not have the soil ruined a few months down the road (don't mind for a few months). It also rains a lot here so the soil should clear out sorta quickly.
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Jul 14, 2014 19:15
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My kitchen sink has developed a leak. Specifically, the connection from the output of the garbage disposal into the trap is leaking. Said connection is a sort of conic pipe thing -- that is, it works fine so long as water flows in the right direction, but doesn't have any explicit seal to keep water from getting out otherwise. My best guess is that there's a clog downstream, causing the water to back up and escape through that connection. Is the plastic beveled washer leaking at the trap? First off, check out that washer along with the nut holding it down. It's possible that one or both of them developed a crack since you installed them. They don't last forever and they crack easily, especially if you over tighten them. The other thing to check out is if that nut is tight. It only needs to be hand tight, so don't hulk out, they break easily like I mentioned.
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Jul 14, 2014 20:09
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Christobevii3 posted:It is just feeding my house. How deep should it be? My neighbor wants to buy my lot later when I leave and move my trailer to his other lot to replace his older trailer anyways. It is really retarded and underground diagonal across my whole front yard. I think it's supposed to be at least a couple feet deep, but in my experience gas lines are the only thing that are ever run at the proper depth. If you're hand digging you should be fine as long as you're extra careful around the marked lines.
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Jul 14, 2014 20:50
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Is there pool thread or does anyone know poo poo about maintaining pools? I bought one of intex easy set above ground pools (12' x 30" - ~1400 gallons) and I used calcium hypo to bring the free chlorine to about 3ppm before getting in the pool the first time. Then (thinking it was a good idea) shocked the pool afterwards with calcium hypo to bring up the FC 10ppm. I did use cyanuric acid stabilizer when I filled it. Now, 2 days later, but FC is still really high (at or above 10ppm according to the test strips). I was under the impression that it would come back down fairly quickly, but mine is just sitting there.
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Jul 14, 2014 22:46
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sbyers77 posted:Is there pool thread or does anyone know poo poo about maintaining pools? I bought one of intex easy set above ground pools (12' x 30" - ~1400 gallons) and I used calcium hypo to bring the free chlorine to about 3ppm before getting in the pool the first time. Then (thinking it was a good idea) shocked the pool afterwards with calcium hypo to bring up the FC 10ppm. I did use cyanuric acid stabilizer when I filled it. What test kit are you using? are you using http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html to calculate how much CYA/cal hypo to add? I'm in-ground and 26,000 gallons so a lot of this is different for me, but the chemistry is all the same. I really like troublefreepool.com and they helped me get my swamp turned into a pretty blue sparkly pool. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/155-guide-for-seasonal-temporary-pools this will probably help you. edit: it may take some time to get the FC down, but eventually it will come down.
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Jul 14, 2014 23:04
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Yep. Using both of those links as a guide. I put in 8oz of stabilizer at start up, so according to the calculator I should be around 40 CYA. These are the test strips I am using: http://asin.cc/2Rgt60
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Jul 14, 2014 23:21
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Christobevii3 posted:Shouldn't the phone line be at least 3 or 4 feet deep? They marked the yard but never the depth... In my experience they're usually right under the surface, but if you cut it and don't have a landline nobody will notice or care. If the next owner wants to use it they'll probably replace it during the install.
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Jul 15, 2014 00:00
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sbyers77 posted:Yep. Using both of those links as a guide. You should be good to go. Just let the FC slowly drift down. I'm honestly not sure how accurate the test strips are, but I wouldn't pony up $100 for a tf-100 test kit for a seasonal pool either. I do know that my FAS/DPD is the only thing that can reliably test for FC above 8ppm or so though. It sounds like your water is clear and you're good to go. If you keep using cal hypo keep an eye on your calcium, especially if you have hard water out of the tap. If you don't (I don't), you should be fine. Liquid bleach is best but it's a huge pain and not always cheap.
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Jul 15, 2014 01:45
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I like to make machines out of acrylic and steel stock. I have access to some laser cutters, 3D printers, and legitimate licenses to several pieces of industry-grade CAD/design packages. I'm kind of tired of paying for these materials. Is there any method of getting a whole bunch of scrap? Like, an industry that throws out or recycles a poo poo ton of acrylic? Even, like, 1' square or less? I buy a lot of offcuts, so I'm used to working with weird sizes, but even those are expensive from the plastics shops. I also want ball/lead/acme screws, but poo poo's expensive, and there's gotta be dead machines thrown out by the dozens that still have perfectly good components.
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Jul 15, 2014 01:46
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Quick question: We just had brand new carpet installed today. We're about to put together an older queen bed for our use until we get a new king sized bed in about a month or so. Of course having just plopped down a chunk of change for the carpet, we're anxious to not create big dimples that may be visible when we get a king bed and maybe move the furniture. Or maybe it won't do anything...who knows. Anyway, any quick tips on how to prevent or lessen the dimples? Cardboard or towels underneath? Just deal with it because really it's not that big of a deal?
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Jul 15, 2014 03:18
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sbyers77 posted:Yep. Using both of those links as a guide. FYI stabilizer may not show up until up to a week after you add it. Add your sanitizer assuming it's there even if it doesn't show yet. I bought the TF-100 and have been following the guides on troublefreepool for two years now with great results. I buy 12.5% liquid shock for sanitizer, either by the gallon or 5-gallon. Make sure you kind of read up on what stuff adds to your pool, pay attention to the stuff you can't get out without a partial or full water change (calcium and stabilizer are two that come to mind). For instance, using dichlor or trichlor pucks add stabilizer steadily, cal hypo adds calcium, etc. Good luck.
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Jul 15, 2014 03:44
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BonoMan posted:Quick question: We just had brand new carpet installed today. We're about to put together an older queen bed for our use until we get a new king sized bed in about a month or so. Of course having just plopped down a chunk of change for the carpet, we're anxious to not create big dimples that may be visible when we get a king bed and maybe move the furniture. Or maybe it won't do anything...who knows. Quoting myself to say we found some carpet samples from when we were carpet shopping and they work perfectly.
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Jul 15, 2014 03:57
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I want to build a self-standing wooden shed on the flat concrete pad under my deck. 8ft by 8ft footprint, 6 feet tall. I'd like the structure to be butted right up against the foundation of the house, but I think I'll need to initially construct it at least 2-3 feet away from the house so I can attach wooden siding and paint for longevity. The finished thing is going to be heavy. How am I going to slide it into position? Would building on top of greased wooden "ski tracks" be sufficient? Temporarily bolting one of these to each corner of the shed seems overly elaborate:  Am I looking at this whole situation wrong?
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Jul 15, 2014 04:46
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Not much to add other than those trailer wheel things are a huge pain in the rear end, especially if you're rolling them anywhere but very flat asphalt/concrete with no gravel.
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Jul 15, 2014 04:55
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PuTTY riot posted:Not much to add other than those trailer wheel things are a huge pain in the rear end, especially if you're rolling them anywhere but very flat asphalt/concrete with no gravel. I only need to go 3 feet one direction once on a flawless concrete pad, but they're (hopefully) a comedy option at $100 for four.
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Jul 15, 2014 04:56
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My shed is half that size (8x4x6) but my dad and I were able to move it around by ourselves just by lifting/pushing/turning it a few inches at a time. It was somewhat slow/tedious, but wasn't hard. Two of those trailer jacks and a helping hand would probably make for a very easy move.
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Jul 15, 2014 08:03
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I am looking for a table saw to do tongue and groove joints initially. I have never done woodworking but my kid is interested in some projects. Craftsman has a 10" contractor table saw that looks decently made. I assume the important part is the stability of the guide part (fence?) but I have no idea what's important on this tool. What makers and types should I be looking at?
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Jul 15, 2014 12:40
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eddiewalker posted:I want to build a self-standing wooden shed on the flat concrete pad under my deck. 8ft by 8ft footprint, 6 feet tall. I'd like the structure to be butted right up against the foundation of the house, but I think I'll need to initially construct it at least 2-3 feet away from the house so I can attach wooden siding and paint for longevity. Don't use the trailer wheel jack. I moved an 8x8 chicken coop (weighed close to 2000 lbs) across an uneven yard, going uphill, and also rotated it 90 degrees. Jack up the shed (I used a car jack) and slide 3" pvc pipes underneath it. I used 4 pipes, but you could use 3, and maybe even get away with 2. Since you're on a concrete pad, it'll move easily.
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Jul 15, 2014 14:42
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emanonii posted:Don't use the trailer wheel jack. I moved an 8x8 chicken coop (weighed close to 2000 lbs) across an uneven yard, going uphill, and also rotated it 90 degrees. Jack up the shed (I used a car jack) and slide 3" pvc pipes underneath it. I used 4 pipes, but you could use 3, and maybe even get away with 2. Since you're on a concrete pad, it'll move easily. To be clear, the shed will roll on the pipes. Periodically a pipe will roll off the end of the shed (depending on how far it has to move) but you can just re-insert it at the front. Though with your project, I'd be careful about that whole "butting up right against the building" thing. Make certain both structures are able to clear water away from themselves.
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Jul 15, 2014 14:46
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Redleg posted:I am looking for a table saw to do tongue and groove joints initially. I have never done woodworking but my kid is interested in some projects. Craftsman has a 10" contractor table saw that looks decently made. I assume the important part is the stability of the guide part (fence?) but I have no idea what's important on this tool. Do you have a router and router table? They make tongue and grove router bit sets. Probably a better option if you're working with young kids is to find some old tongue and groove planes on ebay. Here's one option from Stanley. You can also buy them new from Veritas or Lie Nielsen. They cost more but you'll be sure you're getting a quality tool with no missing parts.
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Jul 15, 2014 15:47
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Thanks for the help with the pool, guys. Just getting a second opinion is helpful. Chlorine levels did start to come down a bit yesterday (it was finally full sun for the majority of the day). I will keep an eye on it. I have a general idea how to care for the water because I've maintained a spa before, but there is a enough of a difference between Chlorine and Bromine that I was a little unsure of myself.
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Jul 15, 2014 16:34
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kid sinister posted:Is the plastic beveled washer leaking at the trap? First off, check out that washer along with the nut holding it down. It's possible that one or both of them developed a crack since you installed them. They don't last forever and they crack easily, especially if you over tighten them. The other thing to check out is if that nut is tight. It only needs to be hand tight, so don't hulk out, they break easily like I mentioned. Well, the cause of the leak turned out to be pretty straightforward to diagnose once I cleared out all the crap under the sink and got a light under there:  Went to Home Depot and bought a replacement for that part, then installed it:  (Please ignore the duct tape installed by a previous owner that I have not yet gotten around to replacing) I do still get some very minor dripping when I push large amounts of water through the drain (e.g. by stopping up the sink, filling it up a bit, then removing the stopper). Looks like it's escaping at the connection between the trap and the disposal outlet, right above the barcode tag in that photo. There's no screw threads on the bottom end of that black plastic pipe; it just fits (very tightly) into the trap. The trap does have a rubber gasket so it ought to be pretty well sealed, but clearly some water is still getting out. Any advice?
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Jul 15, 2014 17:49
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Wrap some Teflon tape around pipe where the gasket makes contact. If that doesn't work, replace the pipe.
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Jul 15, 2014 18:53
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