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Does it not have a push-pull throttle? You should be able to simply close the throttle and shut down the revving.
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Jul 16, 2014 00:29
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clutchpuck posted:Does it not have a push-pull throttle? You should be able to simply close the throttle and shut down the revving. It revs with throttle closed usually starting as I'm coming off of it. And worse when the fork is turned to either side
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Jul 16, 2014 00:34
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Just Horizontal posted:So changing chain starts that again until they bed into each other. So not replacing the sprocket will give you an increased rate of wear of the sprocket as well as chain as the pitches (spacing between links/teeth) will be slightly out. But as I said, I'm not sure how much of a difference that will make.  , I changed the chain and front sprocket on  2 winters ago and left the rear sprocket because I was lazy. I lubed and adjusted it regularly (like after every couple hundred mile ride). It needed to be adjusted a lot every time. Did the same thing this last winter, but replaced chain and both sprockets. Still lubing and adjusting it after every couple hundred miles. So far every time I go to adjust it, I tighten it a little out of habit before measuring, and then discover it's too tight, and have to loosen it back to where it was. Same style and frequency of riding both years. Significantly more wear when not replacing all three parts. And the rear sprocket I failed to replace the first time didn't look that bad.
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Jul 16, 2014 00:44
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:It revs with throttle closed usually starting as I'm coming off of it. And worse when the fork is turned to either side If your steering angle affects it, you have the throttle cable set too tightly. It needs a little free-play in the throttle grip so turning the handlebar doesn't also open your throttle. Definitely check that. If your throttle cable is damaged, it needs attention.
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Jul 16, 2014 00:44
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I want to take a rider course of some sort. I feel like I've gotten less confident with taking corners at speed, and have been especially noticing it now that I live in an area with a lot of 45+ mph speed limits. I'm not expecting to take a course and be dragging my knee when I leave, so I was thinking that a race school would probably be overkill. And at the same time, I feel like the more advanced MSF courses aren't as much as I want. Any suggestions on what I should look for in courses? I'm in southern Virginia if anyone knows something fairly local.
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Jul 16, 2014 01:29
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I don't know about your state, but they offer an IRT (Intermediate Rider Training) and an ART (Advanced) class. They cost roughly the same as the MSF for basic rider training, and I bet if you are required by the state to take it (or something like it), they might offer the more advanced ones. I know that when I did the BRT they recommended that everyone come back in 6 months and take the IRT with their own bikes.
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Jul 16, 2014 01:33
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I'd pick a track over the advanced rider course just from what I've heard of it, especially since you're concerned with higher speeds and that course is still in a parking lot. You also wouldn't do bad to go back and check out MSF, ATOTW, Total Control, or whatever cornering book/video you can find. If I was you tho I'd mostly think about practicing the MSF's "Slow, Look, Lean, Roll". That and taking a wider line and hitting a later apex. It gives you a better view of the turn and is a faster line in general for street riding, you'd be surprised how much confidence you'd get just from that. Most of the time when I see people looking uneasy or slow thru turns they're taking too tight of a line and turning in far too early.
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Jul 16, 2014 01:42
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clutchpuck posted:If your steering angle affects it, you have the throttle cable set too tightly. It needs a little free-play in the throttle grip so turning the handlebar doesn't also open your throttle. Definitely check that. If your throttle cable is damaged, it needs attention. Think I found the root of it (I'm going to replace the whole cable anyways.) Little plastic boot at the throttle broke. when it's not lining up perfect is when it revs up. That said there's a hard kink in the cable too. So yeah...is this a weekend job? Or am I looking at leaving this with a shop while I'm out of town for work next week?
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Jul 16, 2014 01:42
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Replacing a throttle cable is like a 15 minute job if you know what you're doing. Do you know what you're doing?
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Jul 16, 2014 01:43
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I would try for a Lee Parks class http://www.totalcontroltraining.net/HTML/Schedule.html You just missed the one in Woodbridge and Suffolk is a trek, though
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Jul 16, 2014 01:44
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Sagebrush posted:Replacing a throttle cable is like a 15 minute job if you know what you're doing. Do you know what you're doing? I've done clutch cables on dirtbikes before. Not sure how much more involved the throttle is.
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Jul 16, 2014 01:44
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Sagebrush posted:Replacing a throttle cable is like a 15 minute job if you know what you're doing. Do you know what you're doing? Sometimes... Sometimes you have to take a bunch of crap off the bike to get it routed. Don't forget the zip ties. My vstar was a massive chore to change cables out on.
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Jul 16, 2014 02:10
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clutchpuck posted:Sometimes... It looks like it runs under the tank, which I'm guessing has to get pulled.
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Jul 16, 2014 02:26
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nsaP posted:I'd pick a track over the advanced rider course just from what I've heard of it, especially since you're concerned with higher speeds and that course is still in a parking lot. Yeah, I was trying to avoid the parking lot courses. Something that's on a track of some sort, but aimed toward street riding was what I was thinking of. Snowdens Secret posted:I would try for a Lee Parks class I'm in Portsmouth, so that Suffolk one probably isn't more than 20 minutes away. And this is sounding like what I wanted to do. I was also looking at Cornerspin because it looks fun
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Jul 16, 2014 02:42
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Thought you were in NoVa, that's what I get for not reading
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Jul 16, 2014 02:54
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Sagebrush posted:Replacing a throttle cable is like a 15 minute job if you know what you're doing. Do you know what you're doing? Removing a appendix is like a 15 minute job if you know what you're doing.  But yeah, a throttle cable, even if you're not mechanically inclined, is something you should be able to go through in a couple hours at worst even if you're super cautious and unsure barring a disaster. Like, a literal disaster. Earthquake, Tornado, Tsunami, etc.
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Jul 16, 2014 05:48
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Canadian/Vancouver goons: Are Canadian Tire batteries worth a drat or should I go elsewhere? I'm putting it in a bike I'm selling so I don't want to go overboard. I've heard Walmart batteries aren't super terrible.
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Jul 16, 2014 05:54
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Bike you're selling? Cheapest between Walmart or crappy. Might even want to try a true battery place, their prices can be surprisingly good. FWIW I've had a $60 Walmart Energizer in my C14 since late 2011 and it's been fine.
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Jul 16, 2014 06:01
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slidebite posted:Bike you're selling? Cheapest between Walmart or crappy. Might even want to try a true battery place, their prices can be surprisingly good.
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Jul 16, 2014 15:33
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A couple weeks ago I bought my new F800GS. Absolutely love the bike, but I've got one question. Sometimes when I lean it over at highway speeds I get this weird sensation that the back wheel is sliding out a bit. It's strange because it's a really smooth feeling, not like I'm losing traction or skidding sideways or anything, but it's definitely moving a bit. It doesn't happen all the time either, and almost seems like it only does it the first time I lean the bike that far. Is this something to do with the tires (Anakee 3 I think) being new? I've never had a new bike or tires before. It's just kinda disconcerting to be doing 75 on a turn and have that feeling all of a sudden.
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Jul 16, 2014 18:36
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SeamusMcPhisticuffs posted:A couple weeks ago I bought my new F800GS. Absolutely love the bike, but I've got one question. Sometimes when I lean it over at highway speeds I get this weird sensation that the back wheel is sliding out a bit. It's strange because it's a really smooth feeling, not like I'm losing traction or skidding sideways or anything, but it's definitely moving a bit. It doesn't happen all the time either, and almost seems like it only does it the first time I lean the bike that far. Is this something to do with the tires (Anakee 3 I think) being new? I've never had a new bike or tires before. It's just kinda disconcerting to be doing 75 on a turn and have that feeling all of a sudden. Did you come to the bike from a sports bike? Because if it's the same feeling I've experienced it's just caused by the difference in your head position meaning the feeling of rotation is different. It's most pronounced in long sweepers at constant or slightly accelerating speed. Otherwise it could just be the profile of your rear tyre - I've noticed I feel that much less on PR2s/PR3s than on Dunlops, which seem to have a slightly sharper profiles.
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Jul 16, 2014 18:40
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Did you come to the bike from a sports bike? Because if it's the same feeling I've experienced it's just caused by the difference in your head position meaning the feeling of rotation is different. It's most pronounced in long sweepers at constant or slightly accelerating speed. I'm coming from an F650 Dakar, but I don't have much in the way of prior experience on the highway since I used to live on an island, so maybe it's just me not being familiar. And yeah, it's mostly noticeable on long sweepers.
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Jul 16, 2014 19:02
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My SV650 keeps getting air in the front brakes. I'll bleed them and a ton of air will come out and the brakes feel great, but around a month later, it's back to being all mushy and needs to be bled again. I don't see any obvious leaks. Where would I go about to start troubleshooting this? I did a 2007 GSXR front end swap a few years ago, but this problem didn't start until fairly recently. I could just bleed every few weeks but something doesn't seem right to me.
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Jul 16, 2014 20:16
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Make double sure all of your fittings are tight. It's also possible a hose might have a poor crimp.
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Jul 16, 2014 20:33
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What would cause carbs to bog if you grab a bunch of throttle? I just took them apart, cleaned them, set the idle screw to the factory setting, and put them back on the bike. There is no airbox on it right now, it has an M4 slipon, I don't know if the jets are stock, and the TPS isn't adjusted. It's a 2000 R1. I can put up a video later... just need to redo one of the bowl gaskets since I guess I pinched it or some poo poo since it poured fuel everywhere. Idles great, barely need any choke to start it, and small throttle openings are beast. I miss FI. King of all Machines Operate posted:My SV650 keeps getting air in the front brakes. I'll bleed them and a ton of air will come out and the brakes feel great, but around a month later, it's back to being all mushy and needs to be bled again. The GSXR front masters suck dick stock and were recalled. Time for an 06+ R6 front master, front calipers, and some TWF spacers  
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jul 16, 2014 |
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Jul 16, 2014 21:50
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BlackMK4 posted:What would cause carbs to bog if you grab a bunch of throttle? I just took them apart, cleaned them, set the idle screw to the factory setting, and put them back on the bike. There is no airbox on it right now, it has an M4 slipon, I don't know if the jets are stock, and the TPS isn't adjusted. It's a 2000 R1. I can put up a video later... just need to redo one of the bowl gaskets since I guess I pinched it or some poo poo since it poured fuel everywhere. Idles great, barely need any choke to start it, and small throttle openings are beast. You mention no airbox, have you successfully ridden the bike without one before? I've had a bike bog down when airflow wasn't suitably restricted as it would lean out. Of course your exhaust or incorrect jets could make it lean out too. Other time I had a carb bog down on revs it was a torn diaphragm but that's probably not the case here.
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Jul 16, 2014 22:17
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High Protein posted:You mention no airbox, have you successfully ridden the bike without one before? I've had a bike bog down when airflow wasn't suitably restricted as it would lean out. Of course your exhaust or incorrect jets could make it lean out too. Other time I had a carb bog down on revs it was a torn diaphragm but that's probably not the case here. I swapped out all of the diagraphrams. I've never successfully ridden the bike at all, it came to me in a box. Basically my friend had a 2000 R1 sitting around for years with a blown motor / missing plastics / etc and randomly I met someone that had a 2000 R1 minus a frame / plastics / wheels / etc in pieces so I've built this thing with a combination of pieces from two bikes that I've never ridden or see run.
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Jul 16, 2014 22:34
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Just a quick question but does anybody know of some good shops in the Cincinnati/Dayton Ohio area? I'm getting close to needing a new chain and sprocket and its a little to much then I can handle doing myself right now.
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Jul 16, 2014 22:59
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Despite the fact that there are some dumb junkies, the founder race shop owner and his dudes are alright. I got tires from them and they quoted me a cheaper price than anything I found online. They did steal my chromies tho and replace them with plastic caps, the dicks....lol. They are on the east side which could be a drive for you, assuming you're on the west or outskirts by your asking of Cincy/Dayton. http://www.afjraceshop.com/
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Jul 16, 2014 23:04
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BlackMK4 posted:What would cause carbs to bog if you grab a bunch of throttle? I just took them apart, cleaned them, set the idle screw to the factory setting, and put them back on the bike. There is no airbox on it right now, it has an M4 slipon, I don't know if the jets are stock, and the TPS isn't adjusted. It's a 2000 R1. I can put up a video later... just need to redo one of the bowl gaskets since I guess I pinched it or some poo poo since it poured fuel everywhere. Idles great, barely need any choke to start it, and small throttle openings are beast. Without an airbox, knowing what jets are in it, and with a slipon, it's basically guaranteed to run poorly - the idle might just be way cranked up to compensate the fueling that's way off.
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Jul 17, 2014 02:11
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BlackMK4 posted:What would cause carbs to bog if you grab a bunch of throttle? I just took them apart, cleaned them, set the idle screw to the factory setting, and put them back on the bike. There is no airbox on it right now, it has an M4 slipon, I don't know if the jets are stock, and the TPS isn't adjusted. It's a 2000 R1. I can put up a video later... just need to redo one of the bowl gaskets since I guess I pinched it or some poo poo since it poured fuel everywhere. Idles great, barely need any choke to start it, and small throttle openings are beast. Dirty main jet edit: or the fact theres no air box 500excf type r fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Jul 17, 2014 |
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Jul 17, 2014 02:18
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About how much money would I be looking at to have a shop change out my fork oil and throw in some new wheel bearings (that I already have, and bought the wrong size bearing remover for :smithcide:) while they install a new pair of tires? I'm trying to get my bike to ride smoothly and not feel like I'm running over really small bumps whenever I hit 45-55 anymore. I think the last shop to put tires on just didn't balance it right, but the fork oil is old as poo poo and I'm sure the bearings (if they aren't the cause of the problem to begin with) are probably shot/really worn by now. e: It's a DRZ, so it's not like changing the fork oil is hard at all. If it's not much money I'd love to just have someone else bother with it and save myself the better part of an afternoon that I don't really have. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jul 17, 2014 |
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Jul 17, 2014 03:34
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What kind of bearing remover did you buy? I've never used anything but a punch or drift for wheels.
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Jul 17, 2014 05:32
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Z3n posted:Without an airbox, knowing what jets are in it, and with a slipon, it's basically guaranteed to run poorly - the idle might just be way cranked up to compensate the fueling that's way off. Motor came from an ex trackbike judging by the safety wiring so I'm guessing it has an Ivan's kit or something. How do you measure these things?
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Jul 17, 2014 07:21
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A dyno and an exhaust sniffer up it's bum AFAIK.
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Jul 17, 2014 08:02
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nsaP posted:Despite the fact that there are some dumb junkies, the founder race shop owner and his dudes are alright. I got tires from them and they quoted me a cheaper price than anything I found online. They did steal my chromies tho and replace them with plastic caps, the dicks....lol. Yeah I'm in Dayton right now but moving to Cincy next month so that shop isn't to bad of a ride then. Thanks for the help.
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Jul 17, 2014 14:37
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What would cause the paint to blister on my Daytona? It's been sitting in the garage for a year and I didn't notice any blistering before then. the bike is 6 years old. I haven't gotten any chemicals or anything on it as far as I'm aware, I did take it in for a service recently but that's the only time it's been out of the garage in ages. 
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Jul 17, 2014 15:09
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Did they change the brake fluid on that service? That poo poo hates paint and it can spit in the bleeding process.
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Jul 17, 2014 15:16
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BlackMK4 posted:Motor came from an ex trackbike judging by the safety wiring so I'm guessing it has an Ivan's kit or something. How do you measure these things? The numbers are printed on the jets. Better to just snag a jet kit though to get to known good settings, as each company measures jet size a little differently.
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Jul 17, 2014 15:20
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So, I have a 2004 Suzuki SV650N in yellow, 19,500 mi. While I love the bike, I have always found it a bit lacking in the style and character department. I have the opportunity to sell my bike and purchase another, and two options really stood out for me, but I'd like some advice from here, because people here might know the bikes I have available immediately. I have available a 2002 Ducati Monster 750ie in black. I can get a better deal here, because he's willing to trade bikes nearly straight up. It's got 10,300 mi, all service records. Also a coworker is selling a 2001 Ducati 748 Biposto in yellow. 23,000 miles, all service records. Anyone owned either of these? I know the Monster is pretty much the same power/torque et cetera as the SV650, but is the experience that much different as an overall bike? I know it's got a billion percent more style.
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Jul 17, 2014 16:58
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