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Holy poo poo, everyone is posting cool and sexy armies - got to join in! Before anyone asks, yes the battlesuit hardpoints are all magnetized, I haven't gotten around to painting all the guns yet so I didn't include them. Had a lot of fun loving around with the Riptide bases, even though I've gone through what feels like a kilo of greenstuff while at it.
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Jul 18, 2014 11:58
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Dude those bases are loving awesome.
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Jul 18, 2014 12:02
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Moola posted:Dude those bases are loving awesome. Thank you! Glad you approve. Got the Trukk engine from my brother and hat it bouncing around in my bitz box for AGES, was happy to finally figure out a use for it. Rest is jus greenstuff and using everything from paper mache balls to bits of sprue for filler to save up on the 'stuff. Speckled Jim posted:Gold chat time. Who can reccomend a good gold metallic. I have gehennas gold and auric gold from the citadel range, but they are impossible to keep from seperating. In fact i havnt used them in a few months, i wouldnt be surprised if theyre beyond useless now. TheChirurgeon posted:I use the GW paints for my metallics. They do separate from time to time, but some vigorous shaking is all it takes to get them back into painting order. My standard tactic is to start with a layer of Gehenna Gold, then cover that with Auric Gold, shade with Agrax Earthshade, and then do highlights with a mix of Auric Gold, Runefang Steel, and white. The new GW metallics do like to separate, but a good long shake-and-stir seems to get them back into usable condition pretty fast. Also, the 'dry' gold - Golden Griffon - is AWESOME stuff. I paint my golden stuff by pretty much just painting it with Balthazar Gold, drybrushing Golden Griffon, washing on Seraphim Sepia and dabbing Reikland Fleshshade into the deepest recesses - depending on how shiny I want it I might give it more washes (to dim it down) or a little bit of a careful drybrush with GG to make the highlights pop more. Alternatively, for big golden areas, try painting it with Ironbreaker, give it a black wash to tone it down and a Runefang Steel drybrush to highlight it, and then just give it multiple thin washes of Seraphim Sepia, making sure the layers are 100% dry before going for the next one. Finish up with some Reikland Fleshshade in the deepest recesses. Did that for my Coteaz and he ended up pretty ballin':  
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Jul 18, 2014 12:23
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Moola posted:Dude those bases are loving awesome. Seconding this. How did you make those wonderful bases?
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Jul 18, 2014 12:43
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Pretty off-topic but I can't figure out where to ask and it isn't worthy of its own thread. Back when I was last playing 40k was in the late 90s/early 2000's. There was a competitor game to 40k I remembered seeing in my main store - there was a wall of blisters next to the 40k stuff. I thought for sure it was Warmachine but according to their wiki they've only been around since 2003 so I don't think it could have been them. Am I just making this up or does anyone remember what that was?
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Jul 18, 2014 12:59
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TheChirurgeon posted:Seconding this. How did you make those wonderful bases? On the Riptides? Lots and lots of greenstuff, for the most part. I figured out the rough shape of it and used greenstuff to glue a bunch of junk into the base for filler - mostly various 10-30mm paper mache balls - and once that had dried, I covered them in a layer of GS to get the shape down about right and fill up the gaps between the filler pieces - I went with a multi-tiered shape to give it some variation and give the impression of cliff formations. Once THAT had set, I just covered the whole thing in a thin layer of greenstuff to finish up the shape. After the stuff had had a little bit to cure, but not enough to set entirely, I used the flat edge of a sculpting tool to score horizontal lines - like layers in stone - into the rock formations, before breaking it up with pressing and slicing vertically to give the impression of a proper worn rocky texture. This is also the point where I made the 'ice' by simply applying a thin layer of greenstuff and smoothing it out as best as I could - I simply cut away extra from the edges to give the ice cover that jagged, cracked look. Finally, before the greenstuff had time to set, I just pressed the feet of the Riptide into the base (and applied the cracks around the foot on the ice with the tip of a sculpting tool) - with a base like this it's easier to build the base and plonk the feet on, then build the lower body up on the base itself to get a 'natural' pose. I shamelessly used texture paint (Astrogranite) on the tops of the rock formation and later, snow all over the base to hide any flaws in the greenstuff. The Tyranid hand and half a Trukk engine was just random stuff I dug up from my bits box 
Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 13:26 on Jul 18, 2014 |
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Jul 18, 2014 13:17
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fnordcircle posted:Pretty off-topic but I can't figure out where to ask and it isn't worthy of its own thread. Back when I was last playing 40k was in the late 90s/early 2000's. There was a competitor game to 40k I remembered seeing in my main store - there was a wall of blisters next to the 40k stuff. It wasn't necromunda was it? I mean necromunda was also a GW game but that's still a possibility. There were plenty of mini manufacturers around that time But not heaps of sci fi ones that spring to mind.
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Jul 18, 2014 13:19
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Wasn't there a Star Wars miniatures game at some point? I'm 100% sure they did make roughly 27mm scale Star Wars stuff for miniatures games like the varoius Star Wars RPGs, not sure if it's the right timeframe though.
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Jul 18, 2014 13:28
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fnordcircle posted:Pretty off-topic but I can't figure out where to ask and it isn't worthy of its own thread. Back when I was last playing 40k was in the late 90s/early 2000's. There was a competitor game to 40k I remembered seeing in my main store - there was a wall of blisters next to the 40k stuff. If your store was an independent store and not a GW one then it could have been Warzone.
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Jul 18, 2014 13:28
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ijyt posted:If your store was an independent store and not a GW one then it could have been Warzone. Yes! That's it. For some reason it's been killing me that I couldn't remember. Thanks.
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Jul 18, 2014 13:42
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fnordcircle posted:Yes! That's it. For some reason it's been killing me that I couldn't remember. Thanks. No problem. I have fever dream-like memories of buying two packs of minis in Poland like a decade ago.
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Jul 18, 2014 13:46
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Drake_263 posted:On the Riptides? Lots and lots of greenstuff, for the most part. I figured out the rough shape of it and used greenstuff to glue a bunch of junk into the base for filler - mostly various 10-30mm paper mache balls - and once that had dried, I covered them in a layer of GS to get the shape down about right and fill up the gaps between the filler pieces - I went with a multi-tiered shape to give it some variation and give the impression of cliff formations. Once THAT had set, I just covered the whole thing in a thin layer of greenstuff to finish up the shape. After the stuff had had a little bit to cure, but not enough to set entirely, I used the flat edge of a sculpting tool to score horizontal lines - like layers in stone - into the rock formations, before breaking it up with pressing and slicing vertically to give the impression of a proper worn rocky texture. This is also the point where I made the 'ice' by simply applying a thin layer of greenstuff and smoothing it out as best as I could - I simply cut away extra from the edges to give the ice cover that jagged, cracked look. Finally, before the greenstuff had time to set, I just pressed the feet of the Riptide into the base (and applied the cracks around the foot on the ice with the tip of a sculpting tool) - with a base like this it's easier to build the base and plonk the feet on, then build the lower body up on the base itself to get a 'natural' pose. Yo how'd you do those icicles?
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Jul 18, 2014 14:08
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Bought the GW 'Northern Wastes' basing kit, it comes with a bunch of plastic icicles of various sizes. Some of the larger formations are a bit unwieldy, but they're fairly easy to snap into a more 'suitable' size.
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Jul 18, 2014 14:12
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'dem Tau. That blue is amazing!
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Jul 18, 2014 14:21
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Lord Twisted posted:'dem Tau. That blue is amazing! Thank you! I swear I didn't MEAN to make 'em look like Mega Man, but I can't complain of the end results. Just a dark blue base, a couple of blue washes and some drybrushing. All those smooth armored panels with the little ridges and panel lines respond REALLY well to basic techniques like that.
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Jul 18, 2014 14:24
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Slimnoid posted:Yo how'd you do those icicles? Looks like a bunch of toilet rolls
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Jul 18, 2014 15:04
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Those Tau are lovely, Mega Man styled or not. Keeku posted:It has me interested. Almost looks like Final Liberation (which I think was a great 40k game). Has anyone here played Slitherine's other games? Does their style of game seem like it would make a good 40k game, or are we in for another cheap cash in game?  It's super well received by dad gamers and grognards everywhere. Speckled Jim posted:Gold chat time. Who can reccomend a good gold metallic. I have gehennas gold and auric gold from the citadel range, but they are impossible to keep from seperating. In fact i havnt used them in a few months, i wouldnt be surprised if theyre beyond useless now. fnordcircle posted:Yes! That's it. For some reason it's been killing me that I couldn't remember. Thanks.
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Jul 18, 2014 15:43
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PantsOptional posted:26 pounds for 20 regular bases and 5 termi bases. Dan, for some reason I was seeing then as reusable stamps. Also, maybe I had high expectations, but I'm not seeing anything impressive with Krom's stats. 4 attacks that reroll in a challenge is nice, but T4 and unwieldy seems a bit exposed, even with the invuln save.
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Jul 18, 2014 15:52
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if I want some sort of starter kit to start painting minis and play, what's the best thing to do? I have no idea what I'm doing. Stormclaw is pretty much sold out everywhere online, and I don't even live in a place with a hobby store. what about the Dark Vengeance set? looks like a lot of models for $100, but it looks like 7th edition came out afterwards, so I assume DV has the 6th edition rules? if I don't care about the rules (for now - as I said, I don't even live somewhere with anyone to play with so I can get a rulebook in due time), is that still going to be a good purchase as a starter kit? I like the look of both armies included. the rulebook thing isn't a big deal to me because I wouldn't mind owning a full copy (as opposed to the "mini" version in the box, which I assume just has the fluff cut out) and would probably use a pdf when (if) I played anyway, so I don't need the convenience. what about paints? I haven't painted minis in years, so most of my stuff is dried up. should I get one of those "basic" kits from GW, or am I better off picking out basic colors on my own? I really want an all-around set, but I'm okay with getting other brands (my only experience is with Vallejo and GW paints, and I actually really like GW paints, but their entire lineup is way, way different from what I'm used to now.) I know this isn't the paintin' thredd, but I'm posting here because I want to start with something that could transition from the hobby to the game if I were so inclined to drive 3 hours for a nice Saturday of WH (with goons, possibly? there are some on the map in OKC!) my knowledge of WH40k is pretty much restricted to 4e. I didn't like 5th much but from what I've read, 7th did almost literally everything I wanted to happen to the game. opulent fountain fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Jul 18, 2014 |
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Jul 18, 2014 16:12
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So while I painted something other than my 40k minis (oath was for another game) thank you so drat much to the poster who posted his army against a total grey army. Motivated the hell out of me and caused me to sit my rear end down and paint. Interestingly enough another poster in the painting thread listed the "ideal" order to paint stuff and that finally clicked with me too and all of a sudden I have two models of decent size 60% or so painted. So thanks again dudes for making me not want to be as embarassed as that other dude. At least now if/when I am embarassed it will be because of my paint job not looking like the superstars in the table top gaming threads.
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Jul 18, 2014 16:26
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My order from Mantic just arrived with the not-Thunderfires. Ordered one, received three. Guess it's time to rain down hell on some Orks 
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Jul 18, 2014 16:30
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dichloroisocyanuric posted:if I want some sort of starter kit to start painting minis and play, what's the best thing to do? I have no idea what I'm doing. This really depends on how quickly you want to jump in and what paint scheme you want to go with. Dark Vengeance will be re-released soon with 7th Edition rules (and an extra model for a minor price bump), but if you have no interest in Dark Angels and/or Chaos Space Marines then it's not a good way to go. If you plan on starting small and building, investigate picking up individual kits you want either locally or online at a discount. I would recommend double-checking how well specific units do in-game if you're interested in playing to be sure that you have a legal list set up when you want to jump into gaming. Paint-wise, GW paints are pretty drat nice. There are competitor paints (Vallejo, etc) that are just as good but for what you get the GW color range is generally the accepted norm. If you have a particular color scheme in mind check to see if any of the paint sets include those colors. If they don't, pick up individual paints. Regardless of what colors you want I would strongly recommend also getting a "black" and "white" paint, regardless of brand. I use black and white to darken/lighten whatever shade I'm working with to create multiple color levels without having to buy 15 different shades of the same general color. Also, washes ("shades") will set you free. I am addicted to Agrax Earthshade, which gives everything a natural grimy look. Regardless of what color scheme you pick, grab a wash to go with. What army do you want to play? People in the thread can give you pretty solid advance in terms of what's good and what's not when it comes to any army and it should help you when making buying decisions.
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Jul 18, 2014 16:30
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Since army posting is the in thing at the moment I finally got around to taking pics of my old timey Salamanders! Beware terrible photography and painting: Assault Squad O'Jax, 'cause Salamaders have these too. Needs expanding to 10 but I'm having trouble finding more RT era Assault Marines for non-insane prices.  Captain Jaxxon's Command Squad. Colloquially known as the Jaxxon Five.  Captain Jaxxon and his command staff, inc. a spare Apothecary I had.  Devastator Squad Lokan, all missiles, all the time! Needs some more bodies when I get around to assembling more beakies.    Dreadnought Junior, with his Plasma Cannon (Missile Launcher with Plasma rockets 'cause this weapon fit is no longer technically legal).    Dreadnought Slugger, with Autocannon and Tracer Rounds (twin liked). Dunno what the gun originally was but this guy arrived like this.    Ironclad Dreadnought Ironhide, with multifunction Grenade Launcher (meltagun / ironclad launcher) and paired combat weapons (dual powerfist = rending attack aka chainfist).    Foecrusher, a classic Land Raider, usually carts around the Terminators.     Metal Storm, Captain Jaxxon's command Razorback with high-rof-cycling flechette launchers (twin linked heavy bolters).   Scourge of Arex, retrofitted Rhino with a Tarantula stuck on top due to a nasty cityfighting campaign. Multimeltas slightly damaged and locked in wide area saturation mode (twin heavy flamers). Often assigned to the Devastators.   Old Reliable, this Rhino's been in more wars than you've had hot meals. Takes a pounding and still keeps going, and wears ancient battle damage with pride. Combat taxi for one of the Tactical Squads.   Pyrus is a relative noobie as far as Rhinos go, with a machine spirit that yearns for close up action. This guy carts around the Assault Marines.  Scout Squad Te'Kan, stealth experts. Heck, they can infiltrate into battle while wielding a gun twice the size of a guardsman, that takes skill!  Tactical Squad Be'lal, focussed more towards popping heavy infantry and light vehicles with their Multimelta and Plasma gun.  Tactical Squad Jecom on the other hand is more anti-infantry with a Flamer and Heavy Bolter. Also kicks more rear end in general than Squal Be'lal and has seen more action.   Terminator Squad Akmad, pretty much ride around in Foecrusher and murder a squad a turn once they get out. Have fancy unique heraldry as befits the elite veterans.   Librariant Vex'ar plus a few more Terminators, who mostly just get swapped into Akmad's guys if I want to use a different big gun. Not decided on what to do with the Prototype dude yet.    Big Shot is a gambler and either wins big (murdering everything dangerous by itself) or loses big (gets popped in the first turn) without fail. I also took a couple more pics of last month's Oath GK. Not Salamanders, but fit the Old Timey theme. I have some more =I= stuff to go with them which needs painting up.   Grey Knight Squad Ephraim kind of tag along with the Salamanders and try to outshine them with their Matt 'Mary Sue' Ward powers.
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Jul 18, 2014 16:36
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Zark, I love your army and everything about it. God drat dude. Even the way you write about it evokes the RT era fluff where Marines were just normal dudes in power armor instead of hyper-competent warrior monks. So while I'm very optimistic about the upcoming 40k games from lesser known developers (Space Hulk: Deathwing and that Armageddon one) here's one I have absolutely no high hopes for: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIHxDQw7794 If someone said "hey let's make a Horus Heresy RTS!" I'd buy it day one normally. However, it's exclusive to mobile devices, and the developer's past games include Monkey Poo. It looks worse than the Red Alert iOS port. SRM fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Jul 18, 2014 |
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Jul 18, 2014 16:36
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Quote is not edit, guess there's a first time for everything. Editing for content: There are some new grots coming out in this big Flash Gitz bundle that also includes the existing powder grots: 
SRM fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Jul 18, 2014 |
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Jul 18, 2014 16:38
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stabbington posted:Liquid Gold paints are very good, but require you to thin them with alcohol, react incredibly poorly to water, and dry to a surface that doesn't take washes particularly well, which can make shading tricky.
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Jul 18, 2014 16:52
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If anyone wants the three dwarf dudes from these Hailstorm cannons to convert into Squats, PM me.
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Jul 18, 2014 16:54
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PantsOptional posted:If anyone wants the three dwarf dudes from these Hailstorm cannons to convert into Squats, PM me. I'm pretty sure you're actually required by law to mail them to BuffaloChicken.
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Jul 18, 2014 16:59
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NTRabbit posted:If someone gives me a idea of what a Dark Eldar allied detachment should look like, I'll work on it. So far all I can think of is Raiders with Banshees and Dark Reapers. HQ: Haemonculus (for cheap option) or Archon (for more expensive one.) The former can run naked, the latter you probably want Shadowfield, some kind of melee weapon, and maybe a Blaster if you're feeling snazzy. Troops: 5 Wyches with Haywire Grenades in a Venom or 10 Warriors in a Raider with Splinter Racks are generally the preferred setups. A blob of 20 Warriors with two heavy weapons and a Haemonculous can be a nice thing to pair up with some Eldar psychic buffs, though. Fast Attack: Reavers are pretty good. Give 'em Heat Lances for a good tank- and infantry-hunter. Heavy Support: Running a Ravager is all but mandatory. You really can't beat three Lances for 105pts.
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Jul 18, 2014 17:20
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PierreTheMime posted:This really depends on how quickly you want to jump in and what paint scheme you want to go with. Dark Vengeance will be re-released soon with 7th Edition rules (and an extra model for a minor price bump), but if you have no interest in Dark Angels and/or Chaos Space Marines then it's not a good way to go. If you plan on starting small and building, investigate picking up individual kits you want either locally or online at a discount. I would recommend double-checking how well specific units do in-game if you're interested in playing to be sure that you have a legal list set up when you want to jump into gaming. I wanted some space marines to get my feet wet with painting, and the dark vengeance set looks solid for practice. That was my main thought. I wouldn't mind having either army sitting a shelf looking cool. I love all the armies, but things I'm interested in running are like eldar, dark eldar, csm, salamanders, orks.
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Jul 18, 2014 17:43
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To add to what AbusePuppy said, if you take a Haemon as your HQ, you can also run a small squad of Wracks to fulfill your troop choice. They're a little more resilient than Wyches, and a minimum squad is only 30 points. Also, you can fit them and the Haemon together in a Venom if you don't have somewhere else to put him. Scourges with splinter cannons are a nice FA option if you want another source of mobile anti-infantry shooting (though you probably have all you need with your core Eldar). Trueborn with blasters in a Venom is a good Elite choice if you want some more mobile anti-tank shooting. Finally, the Razorwing is a great all-purpose flyer. Its 2 dark lances are good for taking out flyers and ground vehicles, and its missiles and splinter cannon can bust up infantry blobs.
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Jul 18, 2014 17:51
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dichloroisocyanuric posted:I wanted some space marines to get my feet wet with painting, and the dark vengeance set looks solid for practice. That was my main thought. I wouldn't mind having either army sitting a shelf looking cool. I love all the armies, but things I'm interested in running are like eldar, dark eldar, csm, salamanders, orks. If that is the case then its sounds like the Dark Vengeance set is the best bet. You should probably wait until they release the 7th Edition version soon. Until that time, if you stop into a Games Workshop store they will give you a free Space Marine model to start with. Pick up some paints and dabble a bit. Might not be bad to pick up a small kit at the same time, even if it's just one of the $10 Cultist or Space Marine boxes.
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Jul 18, 2014 17:53
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dichloroisocyanuric posted:I wanted some space marines to get my feet wet with painting, and the dark vengeance set looks solid for practice. That was my main thought. I wouldn't mind having either army sitting a shelf looking cool. I love all the armies, but things I'm interested in running are like eldar, dark eldar, csm, salamanders, orks. You can buy GW starter paint kits that come with 8 colors and five marines just to give it a try. Amazon has some for $30 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007OSLKWI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405702805&sr=8-1
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Jul 18, 2014 18:01
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I've painted many models before, just not really any warhammer models. Biggest army I've owned was like 500 points of Sisters years and years ago. I ended up selling them because I didn't want a metal model army. Maybe I will buy some tac squad kits and paints and wait for a 7e starter box that isn't limited edition :P
opulent fountain fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jul 18, 2014 |
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Jul 18, 2014 18:04
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dichloroisocyanuric posted:bolter bitches Gentle reminder: that poo poo's pretty misogynistic and doesn't fly around here.
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Jul 18, 2014 18:38
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Monoliths posted:Gentle reminder: that poo poo's pretty misogynistic and doesn't fly around here.
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Jul 18, 2014 18:42
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Mango Polo posted:Easy route: Vallejo Model Air metallics. This right here. Liquid gold is the absolute poo poo and I love that its an alcohol based paint. I swear by it.
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Jul 18, 2014 18:59
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Can you airbrush it?
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Jul 18, 2014 19:01
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I've never tried, but I'm sure you could. I use them as highlight or accent paints so I've never needed to throw it over a large area. My basecoat is always acrylic.
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Jul 18, 2014 19:06
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A bit of shameless cross-posting in an attempt to catch some of my fellow warhams. I have a kickstarter for resin terrain that went live earlier today. In addition to some area terrain and other basics, it also includes some simple resin objective markers that are designed to work with 40k (40mm, numbers 1 through 6 for tactical objectives, with an extra 2 and an extra 3 for The Scouring). Take a look! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/48375726/resin-terrain-for-miniature-gaming The objective markers:  Some examples of the area-terrain system in action:  Edit: Aw hell, I almost forgot - the area terrain options include landmines! That way you can take a beautiful idyllic forest, and turn it grimdark and brutal.
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Jul 18, 2014 19:06
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