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You should be fine with the SRI/TIP on stock everything. I just did the JBR SRI (TIP still in box) - drove it for a day, and hated it. On the flipside, the installation was more or less idiot-proof, but the "increased" sound it comes with is akin to a choking vacuum cleaner with the turbo spooling and lots of BOV sounds (even with the stock one) - little too much Fast and Furious for my taste.
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Jul 18, 2014 18:05
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| # ? May 10, 2024 17:23 |
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Yeah, keep in mind that the Mazda forums are loving terrible. I'd bet a lot of the blown engine folks aren't being entirely truthful about how they're driving / modifying / maintaining the car.
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Jul 18, 2014 19:30
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Hit an Apex posted:You should be fine with the SRI/TIP on stock everything. That's a bummer man. I read you can fit a cold air box in there to quiet it down. I think what people were saying is that if you change the intake without calibrating the maf sensor, it could potentially cause problems. That guy Lex from Stratified was basically saying that the stock tune tells the turbo to spool at maximum speed at low RPM. Also that cruising at highway speeds for a while and then entering boost to make a pass is where a lot of motors blow. It's hard to tell if he's just trying to sell his e tune. Anyway, I guess I should have held off on buying this stuff. It appears the $350 I've spent would have been better on the internals so I can get an AP. I got excited.
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Jul 18, 2014 20:36
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Mazda has an OEM CAI that requires no tune. If they're selling a kit that doesn't require additional work I wouldn't worry.
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Jul 18, 2014 21:10
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So I don't get it, my 2014 Mazda3 is extremely fuel inefficient. I'm well above the promised mileage claims. Right now my trip computer tells me I have an average of 9.4l/100km. I'm supposed to be getting something like 7.4-8.5. What gives? I have the 2.5L engine.
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Jul 18, 2014 22:58
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Kraftwerk posted:So I don't get it, my 2014 Mazda3 is extremely fuel inefficient. I'm well above the promised mileage claims. Right now my trip computer tells me I have an average of 9.4l/100km. I'm supposed to be getting something like 7.4-8.5. What gives? I have the 2.5L engine. For starters take the trip computer with a grain of salt. If you want to know your mileage maintain a spreadsheet (or there might be an app now, it's been years since I needed to worry about fuel economy.) As far as worse than advertised, published economy numbers tend to be grossly optimistic. Your driving style can also have a huge effect on economy - basically, if you aren't driving it like a grandma on the highway you're not going to hit the advertised economy. Geoj fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jul 19, 2014 |
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Jul 19, 2014 00:07
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Kraftwerk posted:So I don't get it, my 2014 Mazda3 is extremely fuel inefficient. I'm well above the promised mileage claims. Right now my trip computer tells me I have an average of 9.4l/100km. I'm supposed to be getting something like 7.4-8.5. What gives? I have the 2.5L engine. I average 23mpg City in my Skyactiv 2012 Mazda3, which is rated at 28mpg City. It's not unusual not to hit EPA numbers if you're driving in an area with a high density of stop signs and traffic lights.
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Jul 19, 2014 02:49
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Tacier posted:I average 23mpg City in my Skyactiv 2012 Mazda3, which is rated at 28mpg City. It's not unusual not to hit EPA numbers if you're driving in an area with a high density of stop signs and traffic lights. I average 28 mpg compared to a 26/35 rating, and I drive in freeway traffic. The epa numbers are a little optimistic
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Jul 19, 2014 20:02
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Google Butt posted:That's a bummer man. I read you can fit a cold air box in there to quiet it down. Many people have done the SRI/TIP with no issues on the factory tune for many 10k's of miles. (including my wife's) The issues described was, a long time of driving at highway speeds, engine is heat soaked, 6th gear, floored to pass, HPFP can't keep up with lean conditions (extra fuel demanded from ECU), due to 6th gear lower RPM's for HPFP to spin at, and a very aggressive VVT advance in the 1st gen MS3 and the MS6, and any mechanical deficiency in any 1 of your 4 pistons due to not perfect manufacturing from factory = blown engine. Downshift to 5th gear when you pass on the highway and you'll be fine, due the higher RPM's the HPFP will be spinning at, it can maintain the ~1800 PSI demanded in the fueling tables, and can dump in extra fuel in the cylinders, cooling them off, and preventing knock on the heat soaked engine, in part due to a less than ideal intercooler plumbing design. People all complain about weak pistons on both the STI and the Mazdaspeeds, and that the Tune is at fault. The real answer is that manufacturing isn't perfect, and making more power just exposes those defects in manufacturing much sooner than otherwise would be noted. When you crunch the numbers, their quality control is actually very good, and its only a handful of defective parts making it into the wild. (Guestimate: 1% of all STI's have a ringlands failure, 3k sold per year, 30 engines fail per year, 12k pistons were made for those 3k cars, but only 30 pistons were defective (ringland failures only show 1 piston failing, not all 4), that means Subaru has a 0.25% defect rate that slips through QC, an excellent number. While they can x-ray pistons for casting defects, its cost prohibitive, and not always 100% accurate, the only real way to test is to destroy the piston, but then you don't have anything to sell  )
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Jul 19, 2014 21:21
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Awesome information! Thanks a lot man. So, if I really wanted to improve reliability, I'd buy some better pistons?
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Jul 19, 2014 21:33
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Google Butt posted:Awesome information! Thanks a lot man. Except keep in mind that you're also nowhere near the point of creating enough power to stress the motor to the point of considering forged pistons/rods. e: crazzy's post sorta touched on how some posts aren't fully telling the story on behind driving habits, etc. The lesson to take away is to downshift to 5th when you want to pass on the highway so you prevent unnecessary stress on the motor and other mentioned weak points like HPFP. Don't get too hung up on buying these parts as if your car is a ticking time bomb, because you'll end up with constant buyer's remorse. air- fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jul 19, 2014 |
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Jul 19, 2014 21:54
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Four brand new tires on my 3 today. Thanks for whoever recommended the Continentals, the difference in noise versus the Yokos is astounding. The car is significantly quieter. Also, gently caress the Yokos, seriously.
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Jul 19, 2014 21:59
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Google Butt posted:Awesome information! Thanks a lot man. uhhh, well, that would be the best solution I suppose, but its not exactly cheap (pistons $500, remove engine $, remove head and crankshaft $, hone cylinder bores $, etc. $$$) couple grand at cheapest. And Forged pistons have their own set of issues, due to forged aluminum expanding at a different rate than the cast pistons do, or the iron cylinder liners do. So you can get piston slap when cold, oval shaped cylinder walls eventually, piston rings not seating correctly, etc.) In all reality, I would say you can do an Intake + cat-back exhaust before the HPFP/Accessport and you'll be fine. Just don't drive like a complete asshat (WOT creates a huge amount of heat that needs to be exchanged with the ambient air, which can take a while depending on outside temperature). There's something like a 1% chance you got a dud for one of your pistons, but these usually show up even stock, and usually before the 50k mile mark. After that, its most likely safe to assume your engine is one of the good ones.
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Jul 19, 2014 22:14
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crazzy posted:People all complain about weak pistons on both the STI and the Mazdaspeeds, and that the Tune is at fault. The real answer is that manufacturing isn't perfect, and making more power just exposes those defects in manufacturing much sooner than otherwise would be noted. When you crunch the numbers, their quality control is actually very good, and its only a handful of defective parts making it into the wild. (Guestimate: 1% of all STI's have a ringlands failure, 3k sold per year, 30 engines fail per year, 12k pistons were made for those 3k cars, but only 30 pistons were defective (ringland failures only show 1 piston failing, not all 4), that means Subaru has a 0.25% defect rate that slips through QC, an excellent number. While they can x-ray pistons for casting defects, its cost prohibitive, and not always 100% accurate, the only real way to test is to destroy the piston, but then you don't have anything to sell
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Jul 19, 2014 23:59
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nm posted:This may be true for Mazdas, but not the subarus. The Subaru US tune leans out at bad moments, presumably for emissions reasons. The ROW tune doesn't. The proof is in the fact that places like Australia do not have piston issues, using the same engines from the same factory, while the US one does. Only difference is the tune. If the tune was the sole source of the problem, then every single car would have a blown engine (you cannot blame 1 single factor unless it affects every single thing, otherwise it would need to be a specific combination of factors OR specific usage scenarios with your single factor). The emissions restricted tune + mandatory tuning for california's 91 octane = exacerbating defective pistons from the factory. The heat soak prone engine does not help matters, makes a lean scenario more likely, which equals a bunch of knock's, which shatters 1 specific weak piston. There are also reports of people having a ringlands failure with the Cobb OTS maps, and they don't tune for emissions at all (accessport is technically illegal against federal law since it modifies the emissions system, they don't enforce most aftermarket violations though), so if the tune was the sole issue, these reports shouldn't exist. Also, its odd that piston 2/4 are the main ones that seem to fail, since the turbo is on the other side, and you would think the turbo cooking one of the pistons would be the reason, but the opposite side seems to have the issue. I've heard the fuel rail pressure dropping on that side could be an issue, but haven't seen much follow up on that, but if it was the issue, every car would have a blown engine. The sporadic nature of the failure makes it particularly hard to pin down, also the fact that NASIOC is functionally brain-dead, and that IWSTI doesn't actually seem to be that much better makes getting accurate information difficult at best. Alas, we need hard metrics/statistics to come up with a proper solution, but only Subaru Engineers would have that, and i don't think they'll be sharing any time soon. (P.S. I own an STI, so I have a dog in this fight to not blow my engine up , I am also an engineer, but in a different field, so all I can do is guess unfortunately, and the only common attribute I see is weak/defective pistons, or a systemic design defect with the EJ series engines with total cooling or fueling. I'm leaning towards pistons due to the actual ringland failure numbers being so low in the total %, and if there was a systemic issue, the number of failures would be drastically higher.)
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Jul 20, 2014 00:45
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Google Butt posted:Awesome information! Thanks a lot man. I really think you should drive more and worry less.
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Jul 20, 2014 00:52
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Bovril Delight posted:I really think you should drive more and worry less. Word. Installed my SRI/TIP today, took a few hours but was pretty straight forward. Just got back from the first drive and I feel slightly better throttle response, maybe pulls a tiny bit harder and sounds satisfying. Maybe a little boy racer, but I like it. Downside is that it makes the cabin quite a bit hotter, which makes sense but still a bit surprising. Will a cold air box make enough of a difference in cabin temp to be worth buying? edit: Holy poo poo the Cobb air box is $199, drat. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Jul 20, 2014 |
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Jul 20, 2014 06:08
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crazzy posted:If the tune was the sole source of the problem, then every single car would have a blown engine (you cannot blame 1 single factor unless it affects every single thing, otherwise it would need to be a specific combination of factors OR specific usage scenarios with your single factor). The emissions restricted tune + mandatory tuning for california's 91 octane = exacerbating defective pistons from the factory. The heat soak prone engine does not help matters, makes a lean scenario more likely, which equals a bunch of knock's, which shatters 1 specific weak piston. Of course it is combination of factors, but I suspect that a dyno tune from someone who knows what they are doing will seriously reduce failures on EJ25s. But we're not in the subaru thread.
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Jul 20, 2014 07:34
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Picked up a used AP v2 on MSF. Pretty excited to be able to monitor what's going on with my car and maybe run that stratified ots tune.
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Jul 23, 2014 22:17
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Google Butt posted:Picked up a used AP v2 on MSF. Pretty excited to be able to monitor what's going on with my car and maybe run that stratified ots tune. APv3, assuming I saw the right MSF classified thread  The v3 is so pretty looking and I have no real reason to get one but man is it tempting.
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Jul 23, 2014 22:39
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air- posted:APv3, assuming I saw the right MSF classified thread It's a v2, but $325 was good enough to pull the trigger.
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Jul 24, 2014 02:09
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Double postin' I'm going to be changing the oil on my gen 1 for the first time this weekend, I thought I read somewhere there are some tricky clips holding on the plastic skid plate. Don't want to snap anything off, anyone experienced this?
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Jul 26, 2014 04:52
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Do yourself a favor and Drexel/saw an access door to get to the filter without removing the undertray. It gets old, real fast, especially once the bolts start seizing up.
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Jul 26, 2014 05:14
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opengl128 posted:Do yourself a favor and Drexel/saw an access door to get to the filter without removing the undertray. It gets old, real fast, especially once the bolts start seizing up. That's a good idea, definitely doing that.
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Jul 26, 2014 06:39
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I've never had any issues removing the undertray. Furthermore you're likely to get oil on the undertray and then it will be absolutely disgusting when you finally take it off. The undertray uses 7 bolts and 2 clips. The clips are popped out by gently prying the center piece out with a flathead screwdriver and then popping the entire plug out. It's a no brainer that takes an extra minute or two to do.
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Jul 26, 2014 15:29
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The downside is those clips tend to break if it gets cold. Not a huge deal, but definitely a pain.
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Jul 27, 2014 03:24
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The PO of my car broke those clips off already so I never had to deal with them, but they're also absolutely useless in the grand scheme of things. I could probably still do them in my sleep. Across the front, then two on each side. Best tool for it is a 1/4" ratchet with either a deep-well 10mm socket, or a regular one with a short (and I do mean short) extension.
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Jul 27, 2014 03:53
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So the po stripped the gently caress out of the filter. I can't get it to budge at all with the flute wrench I got from AutoZone. Ended up just leaving it and filling up with rotella until this spin on conversion comes in that I guess I have to order right now. gently caress.
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Jul 27, 2014 05:02
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Even if it's in good shape, I couldn't get any generic filter wrench to work on the cap. Ages ago I ordered a bulk pack of OEM filters from a dealership online and they threw in a cap wrench that fit it perfectly. But in hindsight I wish I'd done the spin-on conversion instead. So do that.
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Jul 27, 2014 05:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:Even if it's in good shape, I couldn't get any generic filter wrench to work on the cap. Ages ago I ordered a bulk pack of OEM filters from a dealership online and they threw in a cap wrench that fit it perfectly. Yeah, I'm kinda pissed I put in a bunch in rotella with an old filter. Do you think it's safe to run another 3k on this filter until my next change, or chalk it up to a learning experience and install the conversion asap? Also, my oil level reads just under the words "MAX" on the dipstick after warming it up and taking a reading 5 minutes after I shut it down. Is that cool or should I drain a bit? Google Butt fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jul 27, 2014 |
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Jul 27, 2014 05:34
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Google Butt posted:So the po stripped the gently caress out of the filter. I went through this on my wife's '03 6i. Remove the cap with this, then buy one of these and always remove/tighten it using only this.
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Jul 27, 2014 05:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Even if it's in good shape, I couldn't get any generic filter wrench to work on the cap. Ages ago I ordered a bulk pack of OEM filters from a dealership online and they threw in a cap wrench that fit it perfectly. Funny, I got one at Pep Boys that worked perfectly. I doubt it's different between the Mazdaspeed and the regular version. Guess I got lucky to get it right on the first try, which is the opposite of how it goes for me usually.
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Jul 27, 2014 06:53
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Found this whilst shopping for the lady's new car. 2006, WWP, 128K, $11K.  Waitm what the hell is this?  The entire bumper is pushed in, the hood doesn't close  I tugged at this with two fingers, the whole bumper looks like it's going to fall off  And then there's this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU40t6b9_cs This is for sale at perhaps the shittiest dealer I've ever encountered, their ad says "Like New! Low Miles! Fast N Furious!" The paint on the bumper and fender was rough as hell, very badly resprayed. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jul 27, 2014 |
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Jul 27, 2014 07:07
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Hail damage.
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Jul 27, 2014 07:56
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How do you guys feel about aftermarket wheels on the gen 1? Is the weight savings noticeable going from the stock rim to something like the rpf1?
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Jul 28, 2014 21:01
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Google Butt posted:How do you guys feel about aftermarket wheels on the gen 1? Is the weight savings noticeable going from the stock rim to something like the rpf1? I put on 17x8 RPF-1s. With tires they weighed 5 lbs less per stock wheel-tire combo. I'm not sure if I really notice the weight difference, but tires in that size are cheaper and more common and I like the look.
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Jul 29, 2014 01:04
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Just flashed the stratified ots tune, holy poo poo it's shocking how gradual the turbo spools compared to the stock tune.
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Jul 29, 2014 22:50
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Google Butt posted:How do you guys feel about aftermarket wheels on the gen 1? Is the weight savings noticeable going from the stock rim to something like the rpf1? How much does your OEM wheel weigh? When I went from 22 lbs stockers on my subaru to 13lbs SSR type-C's (RIP) it was noticeable. Even to my RPF-1s (15-16lbs), it is marginally noticeable though not as obvious.
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Aug 1, 2014 04:54
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nm posted:How much does your OEM wheel weigh? When I went from 22 lbs stockers on my subaru to 13lbs SSR type-C's (RIP) it was noticeable. Even to my RPF-1s (15-16lbs), it is marginally noticeable though not as obvious. They weigh 24lbs. Also I'm selling an unopened Grimmspeed EBCS if anyone needs one http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3654738
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Aug 1, 2014 21:53
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I think it might be time to sell the MS6. The engine-blowing horror stories are getting worse across the few Mazda forums, I'm barely driving it as the Miata is such a blast and the demand is high enough that I can probably get a decent chunk for it. That one I posted above just sold for it's asking price and it's a pile of poo poo. Locally I can probably get $14-$15K out of it.
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Aug 2, 2014 04:58
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