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Tim Thomas posted:I'm getting married soon, and my lovely fianceé mentioned today that "instead of getting you the complete gently caress-off Omega that you mentioned as a joke that one time as a wedding gift, I get you a reasonable Omega and buy you a fuckload of Festool stuff? I think I'm allergic to dust and it can't be good for you, so you'd have to get an awesome dust extractor with whatever you get." The Rotex 125 is pretty rad, but also pretty beefy. Haven't used a Domino, but given that it's effectively a better version of a biscuit joiner, if you find yourself planning a lot of work using floating tenons, go for it. Their tracksaw is loving incredible if you work with sheet goods a lot, probably the best tool they sell overall.
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Jul 20, 2014 02:55
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ChaoticSeven posted:
We have a 1 year old boy, and definitely prefer quality wood toys to the plastic junk most people give as gifts. The downside, is our hardwood floors are taking a beating. Blocks for sure. As TooMuchAbstraction said, my son absolutely LOVES knocking over towers as fast as I can build them. A rocking horse would be amazing, and I wish I had the skill to build one. We bought a Stokke high chair, but you could easily make one with the right tools. I thought they were just overpriced gimmicks that everyone has to try and justify the price they pay, but they really are the poo poo. We can pull our son right up to the table, which lets me eat a little while I feed him. It's indestructible and grows with your kid.
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Jul 20, 2014 03:52
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Oh, I totally forgot. It's a LITTLE premature now, but as soon as the kid starts walking, you'll be super glad if you've made a bunch of miniature, 1- to 2-year-old sized furniture. A few chairs for different rooms, a table, etc. They LOOOOOOOOVE furniture that is their size. I keep meaning to build my 2.5 year old daughter a mini adirondack chair to go around the fire pit with the adult-sized chairs. 
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Jul 20, 2014 03:56
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I just got a great deal on an old Craftsman 10" Table Saw at our local Habitat For Humanity store. It came with a bunch of sleds the original owner had made plus some extra blades and a 7" dado blade that seems to work by wobbling or something while it spins. Anyways the guy gave all this stuff to the Habitat store with the saw but the saw itself has no splitter or blade guard. I assume he must have thrown it away because the manual says it comes with one. Is there a good universal replacement splitter that I can buy for this saw or do I need to go on eBay and purchase a used one? Craftsman's website says they no longer sell replacement blade guards for this model. I assume because its was made in 1987 or something. It's a great saw. Runs really well. But I definitely want to put some safety stuff on it because I like my fingers where they are.
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Jul 20, 2014 04:21
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My mother-in-law has an old door she wants made into an outdoor table. She wants a standard table, not a picnic style table. What is the best way to attach legs to it? Everything I'm seeing right now just has a skirt being made, then screwing the four pieces of the skirt into the legs, then bolting the skirt to the table... but there's no mention of screwing the legs themselves to the table. What I'm thinking is this: 1) Use pan-head screws instead of deck screws to bolt the legs to the skirt, and the skirt to the table top. 2) Use pocket screws to keep everything hidden and neat 3) Drill out the legs and bolt in some leveling feet. It'll mostly be used in a carport on a concrete pad, but I think these would be a nice addition to keep it from being wobbly. 4) Cut out a rectangular area where the knob and lock assembly currently is and use it to fit a metal bin [muffin tin sized] to hold napkins/condiments/etc. Is there anything in particular I need to do to prevent racking / side to side movement? I've not discussed finishes with her, but what are my options for paint? For a more natural look? It's the first thing I've built in a while, and I'm a little stoked to have something to do. It's a solid door her dad made for his house, and it just got replaced. He passed away about 20 years ago, so she wants to keep it as a reminder of him. I'm thinking that I'll turn it into a table, get the surface looking good and apply a natural finish (but something weather resistant as they can be neglectful...). I've not really built a table before, and I want this to turn out really well, so I'm open to suggestions.
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Jul 20, 2014 05:59
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Falco posted:We have a 1 year old boy, and definitely prefer quality wood toys to the plastic junk most people give as gifts. The downside, is our hardwood floors are taking a beating. Turn an old tv cabinet into a play kitchen https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...iw=1258&bih=743 Things like wooden roll-along toys are great fun as well. I'm going to do at least one, probably both, of those for our friends' kid who's 1 year old at the moment. And don't forget about building beds, not just the crib.
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Jul 20, 2014 08:45
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Just started doing the same last night, I am building something simple to start with, building blocks, this is the first batch. Later I wanna try food coloring to paint them and then seal with shellac or something. These ones where treated with food grade mineral oil.
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Jul 20, 2014 13:59
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Stavrogin posted:Does anyone still draw furniture/woodworking plans by hand? I personally use sketchup to render most of my jobs for clients, but I've always wanted to be better at hand drawing when I'm in the conceptual phase. So I'm looking around for how-to books, just to g me into it. Any advice? I do. Not really plans but workable sketches. The only real advice I have is: practice. I like using graph paper. Edit: I should state I've taking lots of hand drafting classes in college and high school. mds2 fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jul 20, 2014 |
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Jul 20, 2014 16:06
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Thank you for all the suggestions on toys. The blocks will probably come quickly and maybe the mobile or something akin to it. I think I have a book with walking toys they can pull along similar to what was suggested to. I'll be adding more book, the books suggested along with the comments that were supplied about them to the OP tonight. Here's a jewelry or whatever case I've been working on.   
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Jul 20, 2014 19:43
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It's probably super-obvious, but how did you do the wobbly top? It's a lovely effect.
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Jul 20, 2014 22:57
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QuarkMartial posted:What I'm thinking is this: 1) Wallow out the screw holes (or just use a drill bit a few sizes larger than you need) in the apron to give the top some ability to expand/contract. That way the top will be secure but the screw will have room to move side to side a little bit. It's a door so shouldn't move much but better to err on the side of caution. Racking how? Not sure I understand the question. Paint for a natural look? Do you mean wood stain? Again, not sure I understand. Gorgeous.
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Jul 21, 2014 03:25
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wormil posted:1) Wallow out the screw holes (or just use a drill bit a few sizes larger than you need) in the apron to give the top some ability to expand/contract. That way the top will be secure but the screw will have room to move side to side a little bit. It's a door so shouldn't move much but better to err on the side of caution. Thanks for the expansion tip. As for racking, I was referring to how to keep everything from moving back and forth. I guess if the skirt and legs are screwed together, and also screwed to the top, then it won't move. I just want to make sure there's nothing simple I'm overlooking to make the table more stable. Paint/Stain: Sorry that wasn't clear. Those are two separate thoughts, really. For paint on a table outside, what sort of paint should I use? For a stain, to get a more woodgrain/natural look, what would I use? I've not talked to her about what sort of finishes she wants, so I want to be informed about both with regard to how to make it hold up outdoors.
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Jul 21, 2014 04:30
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Stains will change the way the wood looks, and personally I suck at applying them, plus prefer the look of natural grain coming through so I tend not to use them much. If this is for an outdoor table, you will want to use a finish that will stand up to the weather. The wood whisperer has built an outdoor table and goes through some of the finishing options you can choose, and the pros and cons of them.
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Jul 21, 2014 04:55
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thespaceinvader posted:It's probably super-obvious, but how did you do the wobbly top? It's a lovely effect. In the past I've used a 60-80 grit flap wheel in an angle grinder to do the rough shaping, but about a year ago I picked up a carbide doughnut wheel for the grinder that is quicker and burns less.
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Jul 21, 2014 05:14
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Ever heard of or used the Lancelot and squire cutters? They seem pretty cool, I like the idea of a chain blade. http://katools.com/carving-tools/lancelot-and-squire-cutters/ I was wondering if maybe someone had made something like that for a table saw and the first google hit on my search query was about an unusual suicide with a table saw so perhaps it's telling me something.
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Jul 21, 2014 05:49
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QuarkMartial posted:Thanks for the expansion tip. When wood isn't allowed to move is when you get problems because it will move, nothing will stop it. Which is why the legs are only attached to the apron or else the top would pull everything apart. You're on the right track. One last tip and this gets a lot of people ... finish the top evenly, whatever you do to one side, do to the other. And flip flop, finish on top, then bottom, top, bottom, etc.; otherwise it can cause the top to bow or warp.
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Jul 21, 2014 08:37
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His Divine Shadow posted:Ever heard of or used the Lancelot and squire cutters? They seem pretty cool, I like the idea of a chain blade. I've used the chain version for working on round notches in logs. They work great, but are loving dangerous if you don't know angle grinder safety rules. They like to grab, unsurprisingly.
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Jul 21, 2014 10:33
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wormil posted:When wood isn't allowed to move is when you get problems because it will move, nothing will stop it. Which is why the legs are only attached to the apron or else the top would pull everything apart. You're on the right track. One last tip and this gets a lot of people ... finish the top evenly, whatever you do to one side, do to the other. And flip flop, finish on top, then bottom, top, bottom, etc.; otherwise it can cause the top to bow or warp. Finishing evenly is definitely a good reminder, thanks! So, basically screw the legs and skirt/apron together, then screw that to the top (through the skirt), making sure to have slightly larger holes to account for expansion/contraction. Sound right? E: This is all stuff I'm familiar with and have basically done in the past, but since it's for someone else I just want to make absolutely sure I don't mess it up. If it were for me, and I messed up, I wouldn't sweat it near as much.
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Jul 21, 2014 17:24
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QuarkMartial posted:So, basically screw the legs and skirt/apron together, then screw that to the top (through the skirt), making sure to have slightly larger holes to account for expansion/contraction. Sound right? Do a GIS for "tabletop fasteners" and you'll see some examples of hardware specifically made for joining tabletops to skirts. The flat ones allow movement by sliding in a kerf and the figure-8 ones do it by pivoting action.
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Jul 22, 2014 00:30
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While I was out of town my wife remodeled the living room and I get to build furniture again! A console table and two end tables at least, most likely from walnut. Just need to find or design something I like. One end table will also hold Blurays and video games + controllers, the other end table will have some sort of corral for remotes. The designs will be different but in the same style ... whatever that turns out to be. I might try to incorporate some bent laminations, been wanting to do that for a long time. I also floated the idea of building a mid-century modern couch and she liked the idea. I'm pretty stoked.
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Jul 22, 2014 04:21
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Guess I know why my 40-tooth blade wasn't working very well, it's only a 38-tooth blade now. Of course it had lots of deposits on it, probably glue and plastic from all the MDF/laminate cutting I've been doing. I cleaned my other blades as they also seemed to need it, did the soaking in water & dishwashing fluid trick I read about, my blades developed rust while underwater and more after scrubbing them clean (which was a bitch of a job btw), removed the rust with rust remover & 0000 steel wool (phosphoric based remover) and put some gun oil on it just to keep it from rusting more, though I am not sure it's a good idea to have oil on a blade. I am thinking I'll degrease the blades and wax them instead. But at the end of all this work I am not looking forward to repeating this process. Hear good things about Felders resin remover product for blade cleaning though.
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Jul 22, 2014 10:03
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Hit something metal in a piece of walnut last night. Chipped up 9 or 10 teeth on a relatively new Forrest blade. gently caress.
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Jul 22, 2014 14:23
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Atleast my blade was much cheaper and I used a gift card to buy it. But now I got a new blade, CMT Orange 285-040-10M, what struck me about it was how humongous the carbie teeth where compared to other blades. Maybe it's wrong but it gave me an impression of quality and durability.
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Jul 22, 2014 16:13
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I use a citrus degreaser to clean blades. Lay it on a cheap pizza pan, spritz the teeth, wait 30 seconds and scrub with a toothbrush. Whole process takes maybe 2 minutes. edit; make sure to rinse and dry well, degreaser will remove any coating if left on too long. wormil fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 18:29
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I made a simple work bench for around the shop. It's the same plywood legged/mdf top + hollow core door construction method I used for my tablesaw outfeed table. I love how light yet strong it is. I put hardboard on both top and bottom due to it's intended use as a tear down table for my car work.       Not wood working, but I starting making a new 6ft tall garden sprinkler.  Oh, and nesting boxes!  Next up: Picnic table. the spyder fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 19:43
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ChaoticSeven posted:Hit something metal in a piece of walnut last night. Chipped up 9 or 10 teeth on a relatively new Forrest blade. gently caress. What's up with that? I bought a walnut log, actually the core from a log that was turned into laminate. It turns out it's full of metal chunks, I assume to keep the wood from splitting, and they dulled the poo poo out of my new roughing gouge because I had no idea it was going to be full of metal. I can't even tell how they got there because I can't see an entry point on the 3 I found, and am hesitant to use any more of this wood for anything for fear of ruining tools. What gives? I thought of using magnets to try find the rest, but what's the best way to remove them before turning it with minimal loss of material?
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Jul 22, 2014 22:33
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Wand-style metal detectors are cheap, I'd trust that way more than trying to get magnets to stick or whatever. As for removal...umm...do you have an MRI machine handy?
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Jul 22, 2014 22:38
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Bad Munki posted:Wand-style metal detectors are cheap, I'd trust that way more than trying to get magnets to stick or whatever. Hahaha, I'll ask my buddy who's an MRI tech if I can swing by to run a chunk of walnut through one of his machines, see what his reaction is And a wand metal detector seems pretty perfect for this task, thanks
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Jul 22, 2014 23:30
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Is it necessary to put some kind of wax a table saw fence to make wood move more smoothly past it? My old Craftsman has the original steel fence and it seems to take a bit of force to feed the wood past it. The blade is a practically new Freud and I don't notice any burn marks on the wood when I'm done sawing. It just requires a bit more force than it seems should be necessary to feed the wood. I am using a Micro Jig Grr-Riper if that makes any difference at all.
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Jul 23, 2014 22:07
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I wax my table and fence all the time. Just a thin coat lasts a while, and really makes a difference. And it helps control rust.
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Jul 23, 2014 23:23
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One Legged Ninja posted:I wax my table and fence all the time. Just a thin coat lasts a while, and really makes a difference. And it helps control rust. Is there a specific wax you use or would something like turtle wax work?
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Jul 23, 2014 23:43
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Johnson's Paste Wax
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Jul 24, 2014 00:44
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Hey guys, I have a few newbie-ish sort of questions for you all. My new apartment now has a nice balcony and I got myself a really solid collapsible workbench to work with. I used to woodwork with my Dad as a kid, nothing crazy, mostly benches, bookshelves, big fuckall storage units on wheels (4'x4'x6' on industrial castors, they're good for about 1000lbs of crap each because we over-engineered everything). But, being in one apartment after another without access to his tools has really put a damper on my opportunities to do much, so I'm hoping to get some practice in and replace my coffee table that has caused more bruises and stubbed toes from its sharp metal corners than any furniture ever should: http://www.morelikehome.net/2012/02/rhyan-coffee-table.html Besides the table I have the tools I need to do this project I think: Circular Saw Kreg Jig (I just don't have the patience to do box joints/dovetails with hand tools, at least not right now) Miter saw, coping saw The usual basic tools (18v drill, hammers, etc) It's a bit bare-bones but I've worked on harder projects in the past, albeit with the luxury of a table saw. Maybe some of the more practiced people here can tell me if I'm in way over my head or if something like this should be pretty straightforward, and any tips from people who work out of apartments on balconies, etc have tips on keeping things tidy and economizing tools. I would hate to go as far as getting more tools if I can avoid it.
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Jul 24, 2014 03:44
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wormil posted:Johnson's Paste Wax Thanks. I'll give that a try.
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Jul 24, 2014 05:52
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Stalin McHitler posted:What's up with that? I bought a walnut log, actually the core from a log that was turned into laminate. It turns out it's full of metal chunks, I assume to keep the wood from splitting, and they dulled the poo poo out of my new roughing gouge because I had no idea it was going to be full of metal. I can't even tell how they got there because I can't see an entry point on the 3 I found, and am hesitant to use any more of this wood for anything for fear of ruining tools. What gives? Bullets and or nails, run into both on very old logs, unless you're saying they look inventively driven in to do something to the log
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Jul 24, 2014 06:59
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Mostly finished with a table I've been working on. This is the walnut that wrecked my Forrest blade I'd barely used.  
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Jul 24, 2014 19:32
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I'm looking at purchasing a table saw and came across this: https://delaware.craigslist.org/tls/4576154557.html Would it be worth it to pick up and cleaning it up?
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Jul 24, 2014 22:36
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calandryll posted:I'm looking at purchasing a table saw and came across this: https://delaware.craigslist.org/tls/4576154557.html Would it be worth it to pick up and cleaning it up? There's about a dozen of those saws on my local CL each week. Ranging from $100 (rusty/nostand) to $300 (perfect, accessories, stand, ect). I would offer the guy less, built a little stand/outfeed table around it and enjoy it- they are decent saws.
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Jul 24, 2014 22:59
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ChaoticSeven posted:Mostly finished with a table I've been working on. This is the walnut that wrecked my Forrest blade I'd barely used. Is that malachite inlay in the stringer? Also, is it covering something, or just for decoration?
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Jul 24, 2014 23:37
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It is. Though I didn't get a good shot of it, there is also a big crack filled with malachite in the middle of the stretcher on the front and back. It's covering where I pinned the tenons...After getting too frisky with the shaping on one side and exposing a corner of one of them. After that I squared the gouge off with chisels, filled it with malachite and then duplicated it on the other side to match.
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Jul 25, 2014 00:06
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