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How small a wire are you using? I use 1/32" if I recall correctly.
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Jul 21, 2014 17:04
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Oh the wire can be that small and still make a good joint? Didn't realize, I figured it'd have to be a little bit bigger than that. That's plenty small enough to do the arm on this sucker I've been struggling with.
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Jul 21, 2014 17:05
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I'm only one person so I won't say definitively but yeah I haven't had problems with my joints using 1/32" on joints that only accept that small a wire.
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Jul 21, 2014 17:06
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I do my pinning with small paperclips that I swipe from work.
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Jul 21, 2014 17:10
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Awesome. Last question - advice for making sure I line the holes up right when I go to drill? I'm pretty much completely rear end at eyeballing distances (which is hilarious for tabletop games where I have to eyeball everything) so I'm pretty sure I'll misalign my parts. I'll probably go with paperclips too, seems like a really easy way to do things.
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Jul 21, 2014 17:10
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I pin one end and then jam the joint together. The pin in one side of the joint makes a scratch/dent/impression on the other side of the joint so you can just drill on that spot.
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Jul 21, 2014 17:45
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signalnoise posted:I pin one end and then jam the joint together. The pin in one side of the joint makes a scratch/dent/impression on the other side of the joint so you can just drill on that spot. I put a drop of paint on the rim of the first hole and then smack them together. Seems to work.
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Jul 21, 2014 17:48
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serious gaylord posted:I put a drop of paint on the rim of the first hole and then smack them together. Seems to work. I like this I'm going to do this from now on
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Jul 21, 2014 17:52
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rantmo posted:I do my pinning with small paperclips that I swipe from work. I have been doing this a lot with the small paper clips for small models and with the larger ones for bigger models. Still though for larger models like heavy war beasts for warmachine/hordes I have been really enjoying using roughly 18 gage stiff wire that I got from the hobby shop. I also have a metric crap ton of 22 gauge metal wire (don't confuse with electronics wiring cause it's nowhere near as stiff). Pinning is so awesome and I am addicted because I need more exciting things in my life. For the most part I am pretty good at eyeballing it but I might try some of these other methods. The most important thing in my opinion is to not commit to one size for all of your pinning. Let the size of what you are doing influence what gauge pins you use. Somewhat related, what is the best place to get privateer press metal models from? I would much rather do the work to pin metal than to try to get rid of those mold lines, and end up saying screw it and leavin them on.
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Jul 21, 2014 18:38
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Most def do not strip and repaint, not at first. At the very least, complete an army before you strip something from a different army. Better to get everything you own painted before retrying. You know what's the very, very best thing to do? Don't buy so much. Buy one unit, paint it, get another one. You may not notice it, but having a pile of unpainted stuff will always bear on your mind. My brother impulse buys a lot of Warhams stuff, especially from eBay. He doesn't know how to store fragile stuff, though, this Chariot Of Tzeentch was in pieces. Put a 1/8" aluminum rod through the base and into the Disc, should be solid now:   This one took a lot of drilling by hand and more than a few copper pins.   Still have some touchups to do on the paint, but not before I fill in the remaining gaps in the greenstuff (some pieces were lost). I was going to post here to ask what model this is, turns out it's a LotR Baalrog with an incredible number of feathers sculpted on. If I knew the artist I'd plug his name, guy is a hero.  
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Jul 21, 2014 20:31
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waah posted:Somewhat related, what is the best place to get privateer press metal models from? I would much rather do the work to pin metal than to try to get rid of those mold lines, and end up saying screw it and leavin them on. Which faction?
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Jul 21, 2014 21:40
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Anyone know where to get dragonforge bases in the uk? Or what the import fees would be like on the Forgotten Empires Waters Edge Super Set which is $72.00? gilljoy fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Jul 21, 2014 |
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Jul 21, 2014 22:00
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Oh, Oath Thread sponsor Dragon Forge? They're a one-man operation based in the US, customer order directly through the site.
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Jul 21, 2014 22:17
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krushgroove posted:Oh, Oath Thread sponsor Dragon Forge? They're a one-man operation based in the US, customer order directly through the site. Ahh drat was hoping to avoid the custom charges when I get them delivered ot the UK  I'll have to take the chance I suppose.
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Jul 21, 2014 22:25
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gilljoy posted:Ahh drat was hoping to avoid the custom charges when I get them delivered ot the UK I placed an order recently and don't anticipate having Customs charges added on - but I've only got one big base and a few small bits ordered.
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Jul 21, 2014 22:33
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I'm trading with a fellow and he has a (very badly painted) 40k army. I agreed because its a really good trade, in terms of what i'm getting, but I've run into a snag here. How the hell does anyone strip paint off of GW models? Every, I mean EVERY time I've tried to the paint or primer bonded to the plastic and made it near impossible. Simple Green? Not strong enough. More caustic agents? Melt the model or turn them into a soft, pliable state. Its infuriating. How do you guys clean GW plastics without ruining them?
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Jul 21, 2014 22:51
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Strength of Many posted:I'm trading with a fellow and he has a (very badly painted) 40k army. I agreed because its a really good trade, in terms of what i'm getting, but I've run into a snag here. http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-1839685-Reveal-Power-Scrubber/dp/B00BEUDWJQ or have you already tried that
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Jul 21, 2014 22:55
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Strength of Many posted:I'm trading with a fellow and he has a (very badly painted) 40k army. I agreed because its a really good trade, in terms of what i'm getting, but I've run into a snag here. I used Isopropyl and an ultrasonic cleaner. Alternatively you can soak them in iso and just take a brush to them.
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Jul 21, 2014 22:58
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signalnoise posted:http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-1839685-Reveal-Power-Scrubber/dp/B00BEUDWJQ or have you already tried that I have not! I've only used a regular, crappy toothbrush and occasionally tooth picks. Crain posted:I used Isopropyl and an ultrasonic cleaner. Alternatively you can soak them in iso and just take a brush to them. I've never thought to use an ultrasonic cleaner.. I haven't tried rubbing alcohol before. Guess I was too afraid to try anything else after last time I attempted a cleaning.
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Jul 21, 2014 23:08
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krushgroove posted:I placed an order recently and don't anticipate having Customs charges added on - but I've only got one big base and a few small bits ordered. I'll check it out, going to order that set to base my small ret army at some point in the near future
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Jul 21, 2014 23:53
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Woo I finished another! 
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Jul 22, 2014 01:00
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Whelp you timg'd it already so e;f,b In other news, holy poo poo my super glue is amazing. I froze all my models and was going to take them apart and re-do them with acrylic and pinning and even having frozen the superglue, I was loving deforming the plastic and pewter on my models before the superglue would give on all but the TINIEST of joints. Jesus. (I didn't tear any of my models apart but I sure as poo poo came close on the arm of one of my warjacks) Magres fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 01:14
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Can someone give me the dollar tour on decals? Like, what I need as far as paper and setting solution and poo poo like that? I need to know everything I need to buy and how to use it. specifying: Buying my own sheets, printing my own decals, all that signalnoise fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 03:12
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Magres posted:Whelp you timg'd it already so e;f,b Stop stressing about it. Plastic glue is better sure, but it's not like all your minis will fall into component parts after 2 months.
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Jul 22, 2014 03:48
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signalnoise posted:Can someone give me the dollar tour on decals? Like, what I need as far as paper and setting solution and poo poo like that? I need to know everything I need to buy and how to use it. From a post I made a while ago: quote:
Basically:
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Jul 22, 2014 03:53
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I finished my second Vendetta: Surprise! It looks just like the other one!    All I have left to do to be ready for the NoVa Open is 2 Leman Russ MBTs and a Leman Russ Demolisher.
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Jul 22, 2014 05:36
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On the topic of stripping miniatures, I found some old models in storage this weekend. This guy was within my first 10 or so models. I didn't have real paints yet, so he's done in crappy craft paint. Oh, Hydra. Time has not been kind to you. Neither has can of Mountain Dew that got dropped on you during a long-ago birthday gaming session. Did you know that a Mountain Dew can turns into a fine yellow mist sprayer when punctured by a hydra head? Now you do. I digress.  The hydra and a rather old L5R Clan War water dragon got a dunk in Simple Green. I'll paint them in a month or five.
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Jul 22, 2014 05:58
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Doctor Zero posted:Stop stressing about it. Plastic glue is better sure, but it's not like all your minis will fall into component parts after 2 months. Yeah after the part where I tried to pop an arm off one of my Menoth dudes and now have a small stress mark on the arm from bending the plastic, I'm done worrying about it. If these things break it's going to be because something smashed them into a million little pieces.
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Jul 22, 2014 06:00
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What's a good alternative to leadbelcher/boltgun metal? That's the only GW paint I use and I'm trying to move away from those paints entirely.The Sex Cannon posted:I finished my second Vendetta: This is nice, clean, and simple. Ace!
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Jul 22, 2014 06:27
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Magres posted:Yeah after the part where I tried to pop an arm off one of my Menoth dudes and now have a small stress mark on the arm from bending the plastic, I'm done worrying about it. If these things break it's going to be because something smashed them into a million little pieces. Oh wait, you're talking about Privateer plastics. They're PVC so styrene cement doesn't work on them anyway. Superglue holds really well on them though as you found out. I'd just keep using that.
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Jul 22, 2014 06:58
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In prep for the new Space wolves I've decided to start working on some of my Grey Hunters that I've never finished. Here's a pic of the squad I worked on today.  I'm really happy with how their shoulders turned out. Tommorow I'm going to finish them up and move up to my Wolf Guard Terminators. Speaking of , I magnetized a few of them and holy moley I think I'm addicted to magnetizing.
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Jul 22, 2014 07:32
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SirJoeKCB posted:Oh wait, you're talking about Privateer plastics. They're PVC so styrene cement doesn't work on them anyway. Superglue holds really well on them though as you found out. I'd just keep using that.  Hahahha whelp. The good news is that this exercise has made me trust in my super glue's ability to hold the poo poo out of my minis.
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Jul 22, 2014 07:47
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Strength of Many posted:I'm trading with a fellow and he has a (very badly painted) 40k army. I agreed because its a really good trade, in terms of what i'm getting, but I've run into a snag here. Superclean Degreaser will straight up murder some fuckin' paint, yo. But it will also murder your hands so wear gloves (seriously, I am not joking it will strip skin from your goddamn hands). Then just go at it with an electric tooth brush, dental pic, power scrubber or whatever you have handy.
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Jul 22, 2014 09:31
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El Estrago Bonito posted:whatever you have handy. Angle grinder. Wall of an update, but I’ve neglected posting much of anything here, and I’m actually making progress airbrushing stuff. Like a lot of progress, that would have taken me months doing by hand. I am fairly sure that painting black gems onto brightly coloured things is something they do on one of the levels of hell. I could only reliably dot in two wraith a night before my hands got too shaky from trying to maintain such fine control. I don't even have this sort of problem doing caligraphy. The tank gems were simple compared, and I did 4 tanks in one night.  Iyanden, old paintjob but dotted in the gems.  The Mymeara tank got some touchups of the darker base shade, I kind of went overboard highlighting it.  Samm Hain coming along nicely, no touchups.  Biel Tan might get some panels blocked out and done in wraithbone by hand later on.  An hour per model to dot in every gem, and two done per night at best, just awful.   A kind goon sent me his extra wraithguard head from the old metal line. On the downside my name seems to be on a list somewhere, so my mail gets searched CONSTANTLY. I'm talking to the point that if I order something online [and it's all innocent, model/consumer poo poo, nothing clandestine or illegal], there's at best a 3/4 chance it'll actually arrive. At times it's down to 1/2 of packages will arrive or not be torn open, emptied, and arrive in that condition. The one time I find someone with an extra wraithguard head that does mail it to me, is punched out and I get an empty envelope. Its destined to be the eternally headless wraithguard.  So thanks dude if you need some bits let me know, least the envelope arrived  Thinking I don’t actually need extra arms for the wraithguard, since I'm thinking the arms meant for wraithblades can double duty as gun arms for the guns/scythes. Not sure if anyones had experience with this? Currently I'm magnetising EVERYTHING though. The shield arms, blade arms, gun arms, are all being drilled and magnetised. Still trying to figure out how to do the swords because that connection is TINY, but I think I have a method worked out that'll still work without destroying the hand on the sword. I’ve only hosed up polarities about 1/5 of the time, and came up with the solution of “magnet on a stick” that is my “master” magnet. It actually helped a lot, since apparently I’m handicapped. For ideas, should I paint over the canopies like the Iyanden canopy? I masked out the vanes, and the screens are still clear, was planning on outlining/shading them by hand. But I rather like the filled in look too.
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Jul 22, 2014 09:56
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Anyone know a company that does miniatures for Pro-Wrestlers, preferably with a decent amount of luchadores?
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Jul 22, 2014 10:47
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Strength of Many posted:I'm trading with a fellow and he has a (very badly painted) 40k army. I agreed because its a really good trade, in terms of what i'm getting, but I've run into a snag here. Strength of Many posted:I have not! I've only used a regular, crappy toothbrush and occasionally tooth picks. Look at the bottom of this page where I post, and then click through to the next page after that to see a few more posts re: the same topic. Basically: I had the same problem with Simple Green and then discovered I was using the wrong kind of Simple Green. This *might* be your issue. You want the hardcore stuff found in the automotive section, not the nansy pansy stuff from general cleaning products or whatever.
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Jul 22, 2014 14:25
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Strength of Many posted:I'm trading with a fellow and he has a (very badly painted) 40k army. I agreed because its a really good trade, in terms of what i'm getting, but I've run into a snag here. Super Clean engine degreaser. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=126494&perpage=40&pagenumber=9#post412328648 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=126494&perpage=40&pagenumber=9#post412362416 Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 15:33
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Quite possibly the fastest I have painted an army. I still have a a few more units/beasts to do, but this is completely painted and playable.  
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Jul 22, 2014 16:51
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That's a good looking and cohesive force you've got there. Well done!
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Jul 22, 2014 17:02
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Strength of Many posted:I'm trading with a fellow and he has a (very badly painted) 40k army. I agreed because its a really good trade, in terms of what i'm getting, but I've run into a snag here. Might be late to the party but if you're in the UK then you can grab some Fairy Power Spray (I believe the US equivalent is called Dawn Power Dissolver) and that's done a great job of stripping paint from plastic and metal in the past for me. If you're US-based, I keep seeing people mention something called LA's Totally Awesome which is apparently pretty good?
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Jul 22, 2014 18:05
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