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PhantomOfTheCopier posted:Moving on to the discussion question, then: How are you (everyone in the thread) storing/allocating your emergency savings? If you have a single line item for emergency savings, under what circumstances has the balance gone down? Have you misused the money? For those saving within each category independently, are you meeting your savings goals? A single line for emergency savings. We only used it for our dog getting sick unexpectedly and for our AC going kaput. So, I'd say no.
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Jul 13, 2014 02:54
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PhantomOfTheCopier posted:Moving on to the discussion question, then: How are you (everyone in the thread) storing/allocating your emergency savings? If you have a single line item for emergency savings, under what circumstances has the balance gone down? Have you misused the money? For those saving within each category independently, are you meeting your savings goals?  . Who knows what could happen.
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Jul 13, 2014 09:38
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Tyro posted:Personally I would do the math so that it zeros out over a year and carry the negative balance (if any) forward in the account. So for the three week thing, $202/month. To get more in the spirit of ynab, you should probably front load it a bit so you don't "go negative" in the second month. Thanks, this makes more sense now that I've gone through the introductory webinar and I've just finished a recorded one on Credit Cards. I do have a couple more questions related to some of the things I have had "handled" for a while now. The biggest would be the mortgage. My wife gets paid every 2 weeks, and we automatically put have half of her check transferred into a mortgage account, and every month our credit union just transfers that money out of that account to pay the mortgage. I feel like I should take that, and a car payment that's handled the same way.. completely out of the system, since they are in their own silo's and already under control. I think if I took my wife's check, and put that money into the mortgage 'checking' account, and budgeted it elsewhere until other money came in, which got budgeted towards mortgage/etc, it would just be needlessly complicating things. Am I kind of right in thinking this, or should I keep all of these things in the system, and maybe remove the automatic handling of these expenses?
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Jul 14, 2014 02:09
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glug posted:Thanks, this makes more sense now that I've gone through the introductory webinar and I've just finished a recorded one on Credit Cards. I do have a couple more questions related to some of the things I have had "handled" for a while now. The biggest would be the mortgage. My wife gets paid every 2 weeks, and we automatically put have half of her check transferred into a mortgage account, and every month our credit union just transfers that money out of that account to pay the mortgage. I feel like I should take that, and a car payment that's handled the same way.. completely out of the system, since they are in their own silo's and already under control. I think if I took my wife's check, and put that money into the mortgage 'checking' account, and budgeted it elsewhere until other money came in, which got budgeted towards mortgage/etc, it would just be needlessly complicating things. I'd keep it in there, but set it up as a scheduled transaction, so that all you need to do in YNAB is mark it as "approved". This way you're not getting confused about which transactions are or are not on the budget, and your mortgage is accounted for when you do the math on how much money you need to live on.
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Jul 14, 2014 02:22
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anitsirK posted:I'd keep it in there, but set it up as a scheduled transaction, so that all you need to do in YNAB is mark it as "approved". This way you're not getting confused about which transactions are or are not on the budget, and your mortgage is accounted for when you do the math on how much money you need to live on.
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Jul 14, 2014 15:03
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Is there a good way to use YNAB just for tracking, like Mint's Transactions log? It looks like I'm permanently locked out of Mint. I tried YNAB and imported my transactions from June/July and all it did was really gently caress with the balances on my accounts, and reconciling it caused it to think I had like $9k in July income. Should I just wipe it clean and start from scratch, without bothering to import old transactions? I don't have cash flow problems, I just want to make sure I'm sticking to my allotted amounts each month in every category, which Mint was great for.
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Jul 14, 2014 20:07
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xie posted:Is there a good way to use YNAB just for tracking, like Mint's Transactions log? It looks like I'm permanently locked out of Mint. I tried YNAB and imported my transactions from June/July and all it did was really gently caress with the balances on my accounts, and reconciling it caused it to think I had like $9k in July income.
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Jul 14, 2014 20:42
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Recently, I decided to create a budget for myself. I was hoping if you all could look at it, and see if I am missing anything major. It's a basic outline, so any suggestions are welcomed: Monthly Budget All In USD Net Income: $2,450.00 Expenses Rent: $300.00 Cell Phone Bill: $40.00 Car Payment: $212.72 Gas: $150.00 Car Insurance: $84.72 Food shopping: $250.00 Fun Money: $350.00 Savings General Savings: $1,000.00 Remainder: $62.56 ---- I'm not really sure what else to include. My car loan has a 0% interest rate on it, so I'm just paying the principal on it. I paid off my student loans last year. I have health insurance from my job, so that's taken out of my paycheck. So, is there something else I should factor in?
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Jul 17, 2014 01:40
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You don't have any utilities? Does groceries include stuff like toilet paper or soap? What exactly does your $350 in fun money go towards? That is $4200 a year!
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Jul 17, 2014 01:57
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Cruseydr posted:You don't have any utilities? Does groceries include stuff like toilet paper or soap? What exactly does your $350 in fun money go towards? That is $4200 a year! Well, I'm sharing a townhome with my older brother, so I just pay him for rent. The grocery bill does include stuff like toilet paper and soap (basically, anything I would get during a kroger or publix run). My grocery bill goes for both my brother and I since I food shop for both of us. Fun money goes towards any unnecessary expense (If I'm going out to dinner with friends, going out with friends, going on a date, picking up lunch, etc).
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Jul 17, 2014 14:19
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CowboyAndy posted:Recently, I decided to create a budget for myself. I was hoping if you all could look at it, and see if I am missing anything major. It's a basic outline, so any suggestions are welcomed: It looks pretty vague. Clothing? Health, dental, eye care? What happens if you need a new toaster, where does that money come from? What about saving for car repairs? What happens when you want/need a new phone? Honestly it looks a lot like my budget did when I really wasn't budgeting/tracking very well and as a consequence just ended up spinning my wheels financially for a long time. I'm guessing if you track your expenses for 3-6 months you will come up with more to budget for.
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Jul 17, 2014 16:33
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rrrrrrrrrrrt posted:It looks pretty vague. Clothing? Health, dental, eye care? What happens if you need a new toaster, where does that money come from? What about saving for car repairs? What happens when you want/need a new phone? Honestly it looks a lot like my budget did when I really wasn't budgeting/tracking very well and as a consequence just ended up spinning my wheels financially for a long time. I'm guessing if you track your expenses for 3-6 months you will come up with more to budget for. Ah, okay. I didn't think about those things as well. So start to track my expenses then?
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Jul 17, 2014 18:33
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CowboyAndy posted:Ah, okay. I didn't think about those things as well. So start to track my expenses then? If you're going to budget, and follow a budget, you're going to have to track your expenses. "Budgeting" what you're going to spend, but never comparing it to what you actually spent doesn't do you any good. Also don't be like Slow Motion and "budget" for something and then change your "budget" as convenient. Once you have a firm understanding of what your budget should be or what your goal is for a particular budget line you should not change it. You could look at your transaction data for the past 3-6 months and see where your money was spent, and then build categories and realistic goals around those numbers. Alternatively you can start with vague groupings and estimated spending and then evolve your budget over the next 3-6 months as you see what you're actually spending.
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Jul 17, 2014 18:51
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Bugamol posted:If you're going to budget, and follow a budget, you're going to have to track your expenses. "Budgeting" what you're going to spend, but never comparing it to what you actually spent doesn't do you any good. Also don't be like Slow Motion and "budget" for something and then change your "budget" as convenient. Once you have a firm understanding of what your budget should be or what your goal is for a particular budget line you should not change it. Well, I've got the vague groupings together, with what I think I would spend in each area. I'll look at what I spend on these next few months.
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Jul 17, 2014 21:34
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CowboyAndy posted:Well, I've got the vague groupings together, with what I think I would spend in each area. I'll look at what I spend on these next few months. If you're actually going to start "budgeting" you should be tracking all of the spending that you're doing. Whether it be with a credit card, bank card, or cash. You should set realistic budget "goals" for various categories and then tracking your actual spending against those categories. This will give you insight into how much you are actually spending in comparison to what you thought you were going to spend. It doesn't really sound like you're trying to budget. It sounds like you're trying to estimate how much money you can spend based on your current income. Which is a good start, but not really budgeting.
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Jul 17, 2014 21:57
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Bugamol posted:If you're actually going to start "budgeting" you should be tracking all of the spending that you're doing. Whether it be with a credit card, bank card, or cash. That does sound closer to what I am doing right now. My main goal has been to move $1,000.00 of my paycheck each month into my savings account, and keep it there. There have been a few months where I've had high credit card bills and could only move under 1,000.00 for the month. That made me realize I need to keep better track of how I am spending my money. So I need to first set goals for my different spending categories, and then see if I am (ideally) spending at or under those goals.
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Jul 17, 2014 22:39
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You may want to use https://www.mint.com You can connect it to all of your accounts and take out all of the "effort" in maintaining a budget. You can then set some basic budget categories and once a month or every other month go through all of your transactions and make sure they hit the right categories. It will be able to give you a high level view of what you're spending while maintaining very little effort.
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Jul 17, 2014 22:45
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Have you read the OP or the first few pages of the thread lately? 
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Jul 17, 2014 23:01
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PhantomOfTheCopier posted:Have you read the OP or the first few pages of the thread lately? Well... let me go through the OP again, and just read through the thread. Thanks for the advice so far everyone!
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Jul 18, 2014 14:32
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Just need some quick advice on if this is a decent plan. I've got $3300 in CC debt that I'd like to get rid of as I've moved banks. $3,121.93 in school loans with minimum payments being $43.46 Income $1576/month Expenses Rent: $175 Food: $200 Fast food: $50 Gas/cigarettes/snacks (mostly cigarettes): $160 Cell phone $45 Student loan: $110 Credit card: $190 Total: $930 Net: $646 I've been able to throw a bit into my savings account, usually close to what I have left but I'm wondering if I should be a bit more aggressive towards the CC. I was thinking of doing $50 for the loan and $240 for the credit card.
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Jul 18, 2014 19:58
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Lblitzer posted:Just need some quick advice on if this is a decent plan. I've got $3300 in CC debt that I'd like to get rid of as I've moved banks. $3,121.93 in school loans with minimum payments being $43.46
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Jul 18, 2014 20:28
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SiGmA_X posted:I'm a fan of focusing and attacking. What's your emergency fund [savings account] balance? I'd aggressively get that to 1k, then aggressively attack your CC debt and then student loans. Sounds like a 11-12mo time frame. Then get your efund funded (3-6mo of expenses) I've got $700 right now, I'm planning on selling my PC which should get me another $500-600, but I believe having about $1.5k would put me in a decently safe spot. I've just got to keep myself from spending on unnecessary things like shopping. Perhaps I'll look into fixing cellphones or donating plasma for some extra cash.
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Jul 18, 2014 21:59
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Lblitzer posted:I've got $700 right now, I'm planning on selling my PC which should get me another $500-600, but I believe having about $1.5k would put me in a decently safe spot. I've just got to keep myself from spending on unnecessary things like shopping. Perhaps I'll look into fixing cellphones or donating plasma for some extra cash.
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Jul 18, 2014 22:48
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Lblitzer posted:I've been able to throw a bit into my savings account, usually close to what I have left but I'm wondering if I should be a bit more aggressive towards the CC. I was thinking of doing $50 for the loan and $240 for the credit card. Focus on the CC first (extra $290/month); it probably has a higher interest rate.
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Jul 18, 2014 22:50
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SiGmA_X posted:Solid. I would attack your debt with your spare money. Hold off.on saving more, unless you get a 401(k) match and then save that amount, until you get debt free. After that point, get your efund up more. You're definitely on the right track. Won't be getting 401k matching until next year (I believe) because I just started with the company I'm working at now. Heck I haven't even started any sort of investing and I'll be turning 26 next month. Luckily I feel like my debt situation isn't a terrible one. My current savings is more than I've had in almost 3 years. It's nice to not be working in retail anymore!
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Jul 18, 2014 22:54
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So, I'm tired of being constantly broke and living paycheck to paycheck. I bought YNAB 4 and have created a budget and have stuck to it for the past two weeks, so I'm feeling good about my prospects. However, I feel my budget is a bit...lacking. I don't feel that I'm allocating all of my money as well as I should, because I'm new to the YNAB method of "Only budgeting the money you have RIGHT NOW instead of planning for the whole month". Here is my info: Timeline: Two weeks at a time, to coincide with my twice-a-month paychecks. Here's my budget for July:  My stats: Monthly income: $2749.12, or $1374.56 per check. 24 years old, employed in IT with a full time job paying $45,000/year I have several debts I'm trying to pay down, as you can see in the photo USAA Credit Card: $890.17 @ 18.9% interest Walmart Credit Card: $615.06 @ ~28% interest Car Loan: $18,779.49 @ 4.5% interest Money I owe my girlfriend for emergency cat meds: $121 Student loans: ~$45,000 or so, that I won't have to pay on until next year so I haven't included them yet. I feel that my current financial situation is tenuous enough that I should worry about getting on a more stable footing by clearing the above debts first and socking away some savings before worrying about the student loan payments. Additional notes about my budget: - Rent isn't displayed for July because I paid it on the last day of June, with June's income. August's rent will be included for August when I get paid on July 31 and make a budget for that two week period. - I have no clothing budget because I very, very rarely buy clothes but when I need to, I can allocate money to it then - Netflix is $7.99/month - We don't know what the water bill is yet (we moved in May and the water bill is held for two months before we get it) - Internet is an anomaly; Comcast lost our account information in the move and we technically have no account, but we still have Internet service at the new place - Assume that for things like groceries, everything will be doubled since it's all budgeted on a two week scale instead of a monthly scale - If you see random numbers like $52.10 budgeted for groceries, that's because I've had to switch money from categories to keep everything straight and not go overbudget for certain items My goals: - Build up a month's worth of money in savings as a buffer so I can pay next month's bills with this month's pay - Build up $5,000 in an emergency fund - Pay off both credit cards and make a good dent in my car loan (I swear to God I'm cutting that Walmart card into bits and pieces as soon as I get it paid off, when I applied for it I was an incredibly broke college student and had no money for things like food and furniture, and I had to return to using it when I moved by myself to Atlanta to an apartment with no food and little furniture) - I'm contributing to a 401(k) @ 3% which my employer will match, but that will begin in August after my three month probationary period is over. Can I get some advice, please?
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Jul 22, 2014 17:13
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HonorableTB posted:My goals: I'm really unsure why you don't just cut the wallyworld card and pay it off now. That interest rate is absurd. Of course pay that off first before anything. I mean maybe save a month's buffer first, but immediately deal with that card. Then immediately pay off the USAA card. Those interest rates suck and will get you back a lot of money. I don't like having the car's value in your budget. This isn't a balance sheet it's a budget. That cell phone is RIDICULOUS why are you paying $160 dollars a month on a cell phone? Lastly how much is rent and is it a sunk cost at this point. I can't really make any other judgements at this time. Those CC's are the most ridiculous though you should scrape by and get those paid off asap. Also is that like a 6 year car loan?
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Jul 22, 2014 17:41
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Veskit posted:I'm really unsure why you don't just cut the wallyworld card and pay it off now. That interest rate is absurd. Of course pay that off first before anything. I mean maybe save a month's buffer first, but immediately deal with that card. Then immediately pay off the USAA card. Those interest rates suck and will get you back a lot of money. 1. Yes it is a 6 year car loan 2. Rent is $677/month for my half, there's nothing I can do about that. The rent itself is pretty reasonable for where we live (Midtown Atlanta) 3. About car value: I was advised in the YNAB thread to add that on there in order to get my net value, it's off budget so it doesn't really factor into the budgeting process 4. My cell phone bill will be going down soon - I'm paying for two lines and the early cancellation fee for the 1st line is literally the same amount of money as it would be to continue paying the bill until the normal cancellation period 5. Cutting up the Walmart card is a great idea and I'm planning on doing it. I'm paying about $70 more than the minimum to pay them both down. I can't really afford to pay more than $100 each on those cards.
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Jul 22, 2014 17:51
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HonorableTB posted:1. Yes it is a 6 year car loan Pay the minimum on USDAA, pay whatever's leftover from the $200 on the Walmart card.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:00
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HonorableTB posted:1. Yes it is a 6 year car loan 1. YOU ARE GETTING WRECKED on that car loan. However I have no experience in these sorts of things so I'll leave it as a call out for someone else to talk about. A 6 year loan on a car you're 8k under on is a very bad situation. 2. Rents fine, you just left it out so I had to ask. 3. YNAB is weird about off vs on budget things, but I very much recommend taking off the value of the car. For one it really doesn't put into perspective your debt as well and it's used to justify a lot of things. Also it goes into all of your reports, and it just messes with your head in general. 4. HOw much is it going to go down to? 5. Just cut it now and throw it away. Also pay the minimums on your lowest interest rate items, and then pay off the highest interest rate cards next. If they have yearly fees cancel them and if they don't just keep them around.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:05
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Veskit posted:1. YOU ARE GETTING WRECKED on that car loan. However I have no experience in these sorts of things so I'll leave it as a call out for someone else to talk about. A 6 year loan on a car you're 8k under on is a very bad situation. 1. My car situation is actually a lot better than it used to be. My old car had severe engine problems (was struggling to make it up moderately big hills), the tires were completely shot, was coming up on 185,000 miles, and a whole host of other problems. The repairs were more expensive than the car. So I did a dumb thing and traded it in, got $3000, put a $1500 lien on the new(er) car (2013 Corolla) and the Toyota dealership slapped me with a $13,000 loan at 24% INTEREST. I called USAA, they took over the loan for me, and negotiated a 4.5% interest loan but Toyota wouldn't let go of it unless they paid the entire amount + expected interest at once so that's how I ended up with a $19,000 car loan. I was stupid and got bent over on account of it. 4. It'll go down to about $100, and I don't know if I can get it much lower than that. I know for sure I don't need unlimited minutes so I can cut back on that. Unlimited texting is useful to me since I text a lot more than I talk. I also have 2GB of data with a 27% corporate discount on the data price (loving rip off) Edit: My current bill is $160 and the 2nd line is costing me $54. So getting rid of that automatically drops me to $106. I went from 3GB data to 1GB data (saved $20), and my total bill is now $110. When the 2nd line gets dropped, it will go down to $56. 5. I'll cut it up as soon as I get home. I'm also going to take Engineer Lenk's advice and pay only the minimum ($13 since I have never had a late payment) on the USAA card and just hammer that Walmart card into submission before paying off the USAA. I don't want to cut the USAA card up even though it has a $35 annual fee because if something happens before I get my savings up, I literally have no other way to deal with emergencies. I'm going to talk to USAA about whether that card will become a "normal" card with a lower interest rate and no annual fee after a set time (I've heard that a super lovely card is the norm for first-time credit card applicants and the person usually gets a better card from the bank after a year or so once they build their credit - is this true?). If not, I'll have to cancel it. HonorableTB fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 18:17
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HonorableTB posted:1. My car situation is actually a lot better than it used to be. My old car had severe engine problems (was struggling to make it up moderately big hills), the tires were completely shot, was coming up on 185,000 miles, and a whole host of other problems. The repairs were more expensive than the car. So I did a dumb thing and traded it in, got $3000, put a $1500 lien on the new(er) car (2013 Corolla) and the Toyota dealership slapped me with a $13,000 loan at 24% INTEREST. I called USAA, they took over the loan for me, and negotiated a 4.5% interest loan but Toyota wouldn't let go of it unless they paid the entire amount + expected interest at once so that's how I ended up with a $19,000 car loan. I was stupid and got bent over on account of it. Just curious, why did you continue with the refi once you knew you had to pay the interest on the first note no matter what? All you've done now is add 4.5% on top of the original interest.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:27
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HonorableTB posted:1. My car situation is actually a lot better than it used to be. My old car had severe engine problems (was struggling to make it up moderately big hills), the tires were completely shot, was coming up on 185,000 miles, and a whole host of other problems. The repairs were more expensive than the car. So I did a dumb thing and traded it in, got $3000, put a $1500 lien on the new(er) car (2013 Corolla) and the Toyota dealership slapped me with a $13,000 loan at 24% INTEREST. I called USAA, they took over the loan for me, and negotiated a 4.5% interest loan but Toyota wouldn't let go of it unless they paid the entire amount + expected interest at once so that's how I ended up with a $19,000 car loan. I was stupid and got bent over on account of it. Wait, so instead of paying the full amount with interest over the life of the loan, you decided to roll it over to another place and add even more interest on top of it? Also, there are more options between brand new Corolla and almost dead beater. The Corolla will need regular maintenance, albeit it should be more reliable than your old hoopty. Just remember that you are spending more than half of one year of your net income on a car. If you're living in a downtown area, you should be biking or walking as much as possible to save on gas and maintenance. Your situation SUCKS right now. You've made some really bad decisions, and you're going to have to buckle down and get creative to start climbing out. Do you have any prospects for a better paying job in the works? That would help tremendously, but if you adjust your spending upward with the increase in income you'll be right where you are, but with more expensive debt payments.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:28
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Engineer Lenk posted:Just curious, why did you continue with the refi once you knew you had to pay the interest on the first note no matter what? All you've done now is add 4.5% on top of the original interest. Because by that point I had no car and no way of getting to my new job, plus I needed the $1500 I got from the previous car's trade-in to make rent for that month because when I gave two weeks notice to my old job, they told me to go ahead and leave. That screwed me out of my last paycheck from them, so I was in dire straits. Nocheez posted:Wait, so instead of paying the full amount with interest over the life of the loan, you decided to roll it over to another place and add even more interest on top of it? I live in midtown Atlanta but I have to commute 25 miles to my job, which is normal for this city. I already walk everywhere I need to go in the city, or take MARTA. The only time I use my car is for getting to work and back. I know my situation sucks, and I'm trying to get out of it. This is the best paying job I can get with my experience level, and it's still $12,000 more than the job I had previously. I went from $33,000 to $45,000 with this job change. What matters now is how I can get myself out of this hole - I know I hosed up bad, and I'm chalking that up to my inexperience and just a bad decision. It's my own fault and no one else's, and I'm committed to making it better. HonorableTB fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 18:28
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HonorableTB posted:I know my situation sucks, and I'm trying to get out of it. This is the best paying job I can get with my experience level, and it's still $12,000 more than the job I had previously. I went from $33,000 to $45,000 with this job change. What matters now is how I can get myself out of this hole - I know I hosed up bad, and I'm chalking that up to my inexperience and just a bad decision. It's my own fault and no one else's, and I'm committed to making it better. Luckily you recognized that you are in a bad situation and you're trying to make it better. That said can you go back in YNAB and fill out what your June budget would have been so we have some historical info to go off of? On paper from what you've shown your discretionary spending isn't too bad minus the snus bullshit. Like I said, fill out your june stuff and report back.
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Jul 22, 2014 18:49
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Veskit posted:Luckily you recognized that you are in a bad situation and you're trying to make it better. That said can you go back in YNAB and fill out what your June budget would have been so we have some historical info to go off of? On paper from what you've shown your discretionary spending isn't too bad minus the snus bullshit. Like I said, fill out your june stuff and report back. Snus is the one vice I have I don't even drink. It's still cheaper than smoking, but still not as cheap as it would be if I didn't have the habit at all, which I realize. I didn't have a budget for June, because I had a come-to-Jesus moment when I realized how much in the poo poo I am. Will a list of what I spent in June be good enough?
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Jul 22, 2014 18:52
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HonorableTB posted:Snus is the one vice I have How about you take all the categories and plan out how much you would have liked to budget vs what you actually did. Also I mean if you had an actual come to jesus moment, and you're very serious about getting your poo poo in order, then at some point you should just make a thread and roll with the punches. Your situation is pretty lovely and will involve some pretty tough decisions like possibly having to sell the car (probably selling the car even), getting rid of the cell phone plan, and a lot of lifestyle changes to boot. Also nobody has even gone into onboarding the girlfriend so I mean it's a pretty complex situation.
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Jul 22, 2014 19:05
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I made a thread for my stupidity here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3652559
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Jul 22, 2014 19:33
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Veskit posted:
Common practice from what I've seen is if you have the auto loan as an account you also list the value to get an accurate picture. If he just had it as a budget item then yeah having the value there would be wonky.
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Jul 23, 2014 06:09
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HonorableTB posted:I made a thread for my stupidity here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3652559 Overall, start searching for ways to seriously cut costs. I don't advocate removing every single extra item in your life, because that tends to drive people crazy and then they retail therapy away more money in a week than they've managed to save, but you need to see extras as rewards for savings goals. As you're working toward a more viable budget, try to stretch out how often you spend on extras. If, for example, you start with weekly restaurant runs, try to only do three runs in August, then every other week in September, and so on. You can probably do the same thing with the snus. Pick one day or one half day a week where you don't touch it; drink water instead. Next is two half days a week, and so on.
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Jul 23, 2014 09:07
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