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Just a quick repost since it seems to have been lost in the shuffle. I'm looking to build a new system. It's primary uses would be gaming at 1080p (single monitor). Other uses include general web surfing, watching movies, basic office work, etc. I could use recommendations for the cpu cooler and optical drive specifically. Any advice and constructive criticism given would be greatly appreciated as I'm pretty sure I've butchered this so far. The budget is flexible but it would be ideal to keep it in this general ball park of $1000 USD. Thank you very much. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($198.98 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($84.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Micro Center) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.98 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($224.98 @ Newegg) Case: Corsair 450D ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($57.98 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $936.86
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Jul 25, 2014 02:36
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Brain Issues posted:Finished my build, I'm really happy with how it turned out. It's the first time I've actually built a computer and tried to carefully install the parts and wiring so it looked good and wasn't just functional. Not really a fan of how the front of the case looks with the optical drive though. Nice job. Looks really squared away in there. =) Now just add some flashing LEDs and a cathode that pulses to your subwoofer! 
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Jul 25, 2014 03:21
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Mr Apollo posted:Just a quick repost since it seems to have been lost in the shuffle. I'm looking to build a new system. It's primary uses would be gaming at 1080p (single monitor). Other uses include general web surfing, watching movies, basic office work, etc. That's not an overclocking CPU so you don't really need an aftermarket cooler, unless I'm missing something? If you want the CPU to run quieter than stock the default recommendation is a hyper 212. For an optical drive, just get anything that can burn DVDs. Or don't! Unless you want to play blu-rays, its probably the part of your computer you can cheap out the most on. (or not have at all)
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Jul 25, 2014 04:26
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Mr Apollo posted:Just a quick repost since it seems to have been lost in the shuffle. I'm looking to build a new system. It's primary uses would be gaming at 1080p (single monitor). Other uses include general web surfing, watching movies, basic office work, etc. Just get a hyper212 evo as a cooler. Even though you don't need an aftermarket cooler if you aren't overclocking from a cooling perspective, I strongly recommend adding a cheaper, yet decent cooler like the EVO to cut down on noise, unless $30 would break your budget. As for optical drives, just get whatever happens to be cheaper - a DVD drive is a dvd drive. You can get a bluray reader if you want, but be aware you will also need to spend $70 on Player software.
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Jul 25, 2014 04:49
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Just got word that the PC I ordered for my wife has arrived at home, so I guess I'll be building it tonight. With than in mind, what is the general opinion on thermal paste application? Should I use the blob method or spread it out with paper?
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Jul 25, 2014 05:45
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neurotech posted:Just got word that the PC I ordered for my wife has arrived at home, so I guess I'll be building it tonight.
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Jul 25, 2014 06:02
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Josh Lyman posted:Don't prespread. Just line/blob it. Does it have to get everywhere? I've always used the spread method but then again I'm still using the same tube of stuff that I got for my Celeron 300A.
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Jul 25, 2014 06:18
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I am looking to build a Desktop for high end gaming purposes. I am looking for feedback and suggestions on the cooling system mainly. I would like the computer to be as quiet as possible so would filling the case with fans or using liquid cooling help? I was looking at getting a larger display like LG 34UM65-P 34" Ultra Wide LED Monitor,2560x1080Resolution,50M1:1DCR,Dual-Link ($699 @ Frys) and would like to get 60fps on Ultra settings in AAA and MMO's games mostly. My budget is $2,500 so there is definitely room to switch parts around for better performance. I already have hard drives and Win 8.1 and plan on filling up all the hard drives bays in the case. Thanks in advance for any advice! I haven't built a desktop for myself in years and I'm really looking forward to it. PCPartPicker part list CPU: Intel Core i5-4690k 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($69.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Z97 EXTREME4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($115.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($83.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked ACX Video Card ($464.98 @ Newegg) Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($104.98 @ SuperBiiz) Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.98 @ Outlet PC) Total: $1,229.89 jimtech fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jul 25, 2014 |
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Jul 25, 2014 06:23
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jimtech posted:I am looking to build a Desktop for high end gaming purposes. I am looking for feedback and suggestions on the cooling system mainly. I would like the computer to be as quiet as possible so would filling the case with fans or using liquid cooling help? I was looking at getting a larger display like LG 34UM65-P 34" Ultra Wide LED Monitor,2560x1080Resolution,50M1:1DCR,Dual-Link ($699 @ Frys) and would like to get 60fps on Ultra settings in AAA and MMO's games mostly. My budget is $2,500 so there is definitely room to switch parts around for better performance. I already have hard drives and Win 8.1 and plan on filling up all the hard drives bays in the case. Thanks in advance for any advice! I haven't built a desktop for myself in years and I'm really looking forward to it. A Nanoxia DS1 would be your best bet for a super quiet case that still cools well. Regardless of which you choose, there is no reason to add extra fans. I also suggest an MSI graphics card - they have the quietest coolers. I think a 34" screen at that resolution is too big - I would suggest a 27" screen at 2560x1440 - the higher pixel density will make the screen look nicer and it's a more useful aspect ratio in my opinion. A gtx780 is also at the lower end of what I would recommend for adequate performance at 2560x1440 - An R9-290X would be better. I personally use the still more powerful 780ti but be aware the cost:performance ratio isn't as good. 750w is overkill on the power supply, and you're paying rather a lot for a lower end(but still good quality) model. get something like this: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-rm650 or this: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-ss650km You say you already have a hard drive (how old are they? replace if more than 3 years), but do you also have a solid state drive? If you're going to build a new PC an SSD is essential. Your PCPartpicker List PCPartPicker part list doesn't match what you've specified in the part by part list below it by the way. You should still have a grand or so left in your budget after all this, so maybe get yourself some nice speakers/mouse/keyboard or something.
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Jul 25, 2014 06:41
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The Lord Bude posted:A Nanoxia DS1 would be your best bet for a super quiet case that still cools well. Regardless of which you choose, there is no reason to add extra fans. I also suggest an MSI graphics card - they have the quietest coolers. I think a 34" screen at that resolution is too big - I would suggest a 27" screen at 2560x1440 - the higher pixel density will make the screen look nicer and it's a more useful aspect ratio in my opinion. A gtx780 is also at the lower end of what I would recommend for adequate performance at 2560x1440 - An R9-290X would be better. I personally use the still more powerful 780ti but be aware the cost:performance ratio isn't as good. I'll check those suggestions out, thank you very much! I currently have 6 Samsung 250gb SSD's that I am wanting to put inside the computer. They were purchased within the last 2 years. Currently using a Logitech G510 and Razor Naga but will look at mechanical keyboards this weekend. For the graphics card, would it be better to do a SLI setup if I went with the 27in 1440p display?
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Jul 25, 2014 07:34
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The rule about SLI or CrossFire is that it's really, really, really better to go as far as you can with a single card first (within reason - nobody expects you to pay $1000 for a Titan Black instead of $650 for a 780 Ti just because it's the "higher up" single card). While dual 770s would be a bit faster than a 780 Ti at the same cost, if and when the SLI profile is working correctly, there's a laundry list of eccentricities, caveats and constant driver updates that could mean that the SLI profile doesn't work correctly for days, weeks, or sometimes ever, in which case your game only runs on one of your cards with performance to match.
Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Jul 25, 2014 |
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Jul 25, 2014 08:42
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Factory Factory posted:The rule about SLI or CrossFire is that it's really, really, really better to go as far as you can with a single card first (within reason - nobody expects you to pay $1000 for a Titan Black instead of $650 for a 780 Ti just because it's the "higher up" single card). While dual 770s would be a bit faster than a 780 Ti at the same cost, if and when the SLI profile is working correctly, there's a laundry list of eccentricities, caveats and constant driver updates that could mean that the SLI profile doesn't work correctly for days, weeks, or sometimes ever, in which case your game only runs on one of your cards with performance to match. Thanks for clearing that up for me. So it seems that I would be better off just using a single card for now and try sli further down the road. So I would need to make sure the motherboard I buy supports it.
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Jul 25, 2014 09:02
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jimtech posted:I'll check those suggestions out, thank you very much! I currently have 6 Samsung 250gb SSD's that I am wanting to put inside the computer. They were purchased within the last 2 years. Currently using a Logitech G510 and Razor Naga but will look at mechanical keyboards this weekend. For the graphics card, would it be better to do a SLI setup if I went with the 27in 1440p display? I would always get a single card, even if it costs more. A 780ti isn't great value, but I find it performs perfectly at 1440p. If you have 6 SSDs; you'd better look at how many SATA ports your choice of motherboard has, and remember you only get decent performance from the Intel Ports, extra ones provided by Asmedia chips are only good for DVD drives.
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Jul 25, 2014 09:10
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jimtech posted:I am looking to build a Desktop for high end gaming purposes. I am looking for feedback and suggestions on the cooling system mainly. I would like the computer to be as quiet as possible so would filling the case with fans or using liquid cooling help? I was looking at getting a larger display like LG 34UM65-P 34" Ultra Wide LED Monitor,2560x1080Resolution,50M1:1DCR,Dual-Link ($699 @ Frys) and would like to get 60fps on Ultra settings in AAA and MMO's games mostly. My budget is $2,500 so there is definitely room to switch parts around for better performance. I already have hard drives and Win 8.1 and plan on filling up all the hard drives bays in the case. Thanks in advance for any advice! I haven't built a desktop for myself in years and I'm really looking forward to it. Considering your healthy budget, there is plenty more to do here although not exactly necessary. The first question I'd have though is if you want to overclock or not. I do recommend 1440p with a budget like this though, and a bump up to a 780ti as well. I am much more adamant about SLI than most but the largest downside is games that don't support it. Which still happen even with some AAA titles. Frankly I wish I had 780 SLI for 1440p but there are diminishing returns at that point. I am *almost* happy with a single 780ti but it isnt butter smooth in every scenario and I do have to turn down some of the more intense AA settings. 770's performed better without a doubt even at 2gb, I have a feeling 780 SLI would be perfect for me. That being said I prefer the single card simplicity as well overall and am happy I went with it (it was a cost thing at first, I got a MSI 780ti for $560, but it is easily worth the asking price imo) The problem I was facing going SLI with anything above 770's was mostly power and heat related.
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Jul 25, 2014 15:49
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The Lord Bude posted:Yes. That case is tiny because it uses a right angle adapter card for the gpu, so that it lies flat above the motherboard instead of sticking out from it...this means the intake fans on the card are directly under those two side by side round vents on the top of the case - they draw cold air in directly so you get perfect cooling. Bear in mind the case requires an SFX form factor PSU though; which will place a hard limit on the wattage you can get for it. We are seeing higher and higher SFX wattages though, with the increased Popularity of tiny cases. Ya it seems like 450w is the hard limit on a PSU for that form factor. I usually overshoot on my desktop rigs and throw 750s in so that seems really low, but this thread seems to indicate that 450w might be enough.
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Jul 25, 2014 16:41
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My roommate's computer doesn't have an available PCI slot, and his USB NIC crapped out. Is there a good go-to USB network adapter?
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Jul 25, 2014 16:53
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The BitFenix phenom is looking a little more attractive because of its ability to support ATX PSUs, though I think the mATX version looks better then the mITX since I have no use for doubling the drive bays at the expense of a PCI-e slot.
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Jul 25, 2014 16:56
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Jarmak posted:Ya it seems like 450w is the hard limit on a PSU for that form factor. I usually overshoot on my desktop rigs and throw 750s in so that seems really low, but this thread seems to indicate that 450w might be enough. Jarmak posted:The BitFenix phenom is looking a little more attractive because of its ability to support ATX PSUs, though I think the mATX version looks better then the mITX since I have no use for doubling the drive bays at the expense of a PCI-e slot. Actually it looks like Silverstone have recently released a 600w SFX form factor PSU - that's enough for any single gpu on the market. If you end up going with a bitfenix: The Phenom has significantly worse cooling than the Prodigy or Colossus. It has virtually no front ventilation to feed the intake fan, and solid side panels. The prodigy is significantly better than the other two, because it comes with a mesh front panel (provided you get the black one) that allows proper air intake, and a vented side panel, so the graphics card can draw air from outside. Also I kinda prefer the mITX layout - the mATX has a weird upside down airflow.
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Jul 25, 2014 17:05
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MisterAlex posted:My roommate's computer doesn't have an available PCI slot, and his USB NIC crapped out. The next best thing after Intel is probably Asus.
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Jul 25, 2014 17:05
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The Lord Bude posted:The next best thing after Intel is probably Asus.
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Jul 25, 2014 17:17
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The Lord Bude posted:Actually it looks like Silverstone have recently released a 600w SFX form factor PSU - that's enough for any single gpu on the market. Looks like I might have to wait for that 600w to actually be available for purchase, research seems to indicate its due to hit literally any day now.
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Jul 25, 2014 17:23
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I'm thinking of building a machine, since I've been out of the gaming loop for quite a while. I'm interested in the epic big-hitter 1p games like Skyrim, Mass Effect, Bioshock Infinite, etc. that I missed out on over the last ten years or so. I'm really mostly interesting in 'not loving around with things', so overclocking isn't that important to me, and I've had horrible experiences with ATI graphics cards in the past so I opted for a GeForce. I've built quite a few machines in the 90's but now I feel completely out of my depth. I've mainly stuck to recommendations in the OP but a sanity check would be greatly appreciated: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (£139.98 @ Ebuyer) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.25 @ Scan.co.uk) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£64.28 @ More Computers) Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£60.38 @ CCL Computers) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£59.99 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB DirectCU II Video Card (£238.49 @ Amazon UK) Case: Fractal Design Define Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£61.99 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£44.11 @ CCL Computers) Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 62205ANHMWDTX1 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter (£22.97 @ Ebuyer) Mouse: Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse (£61.40 @ Scan.co.uk) Total: £777.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-07-25 18:24 BST+0100
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Jul 25, 2014 18:27
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I'd recommend getting the 250GB EVO if it fits in your budget, you might also want to pick up a 1TB traditional hard drive if you don't have one already that isn't too old because you'll probably need more storage space. You might also want to switch out the Asus 770 with the MSI model because it's quieter, and IMO the small price increase to the 4690 CPU is worth it.
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Jul 25, 2014 18:36
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Perfect, is it worth upgrading to the MSI 770 4gb version while I'm at it? A friend said he will give me a fractal 3000 case.
Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jul 25, 2014 |
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Jul 25, 2014 19:15
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Southern Heel posted:Perfect, is it worth upgrading to the MSI 770 4gb version while I'm at it? The 4GB 770s are more suited for SLI, more VRAM doesn't make cards better and 2GB generally seems to be appropriate. What's the price premium? If it's not much more money, you could just do it anyway.
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Jul 25, 2014 19:21
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teagone posted:Has anyone ever used a picoPSU in a low-power build? I recently purchased one with a power brick directly from the company that invented/sells them (http://mini-box.com), and most reviews I've read of select models have been pretty good. I got this one specifically - http://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-150-XT - with a 102W power brick and PCI bracket to mount the power adapter port. It's going to be used to power a bay trail based Steam streamer box/Plex HTPC (ASRock Q1900-ITX mainboard/cpu, Corsair 8GB DDR3, 120GB 840 EVO SSD). Part of the reason I got the picoPSU was because its fanless and I wanted my SteamPlex box to be completely silent, it's relatively cheap ($60 for everything), but also because I don't think a Celeron J1900 needs a 450W PSU, haha (the system is already built, currently powered by an Antec VP450). Just want to say I got my picoPSU in today and installed it without a hitch. My Steam/Plex box is 100% silent now  - I did a bit of research online and saw that a J1900 bay trail system hardly ever exceeds like 30-40w under load, so I figured a 150w picoPSU + 102W power brick would be adequate. I guess I could have gone lower, like with a 90w picoPSU and a 72w brick, but I just wanted to be sure I have enough juice for peripheral components and stuff.
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Jul 25, 2014 19:27
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I'm sorry for all the questions, but would it be better, performance wise, rather than a 1TB 7200 RPM hard drive, to get a 120 GB SSD for programs and the operating system, and use a 500GB 5400 RPM laptop hard drive with a converter cable? The costs for the 1TB and the 120 GB seem to be somewhat comparable. e: Meant as less of an "Are SSDs worth it" and more of a "how bad of an idea would it be to use a laptop hard drive to store everything. everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Jul 26, 2014 |
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Jul 25, 2014 19:28
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Twerk from Home posted:The 4GB 770s are more suited for SLI, more VRAM doesn't make cards better and 2GB generally seems to be appropriate. What's the price premium? If it's not much more money, you could just do it anyway. Honestly I'm about 180 above my budget already, what with the 770 instead of 280x, the upgraded CPU and an SSD - if it's not much dice then I'll leave it as is. Thanks for the advice.
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Jul 25, 2014 20:11
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Southern Heel posted:Honestly I'm about 180 above my budget already, what with the 770 instead of 280x, the upgraded CPU and an SSD - if it's not much dice then I'll leave it as is. Thanks for the advice. You won't notice any difference with a 770 its best to save your money for that
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Jul 25, 2014 21:45
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Southern Heel posted:I'm thinking of building a machine, since I've been out of the gaming loop for quite a while. I'm interested in the epic big-hitter 1p games like Skyrim, Mass Effect, Bioshock Infinite, etc. that I missed out on over the last ten years or so. 1. See if you can get a Nanoxia DS4 instead of that define mini. 2. Razer mice have terrible quality, and now come with cloud based software to configure mouse settings. I suggest a Logitech G502 or G602. 3. The Asus gtx770 runs the hottest and is the noisiest of the major brands. If you can get one for a similar price, look at MSI (best) or EVGA (second best) 4. Your list of catch up games is tragically missing DragonAge origins. The Ultimate edition with the expansion and all DLC is available through steam and origin, and it's pretty much the best game of the past 10 years.
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Jul 26, 2014 04:49
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I've finally decided to build a new machine to replace the fossil I'm currently using. The thing is... I've never built a computer before and I really don't know what the hell I'm doing. I've been reading through this thread and browsing some articles, but I could really use some help making sure I'm not screwing something up or spending money on things I don't need. I'd be using this primarily for gaming and I'm not looking to overclock. Here's what I've come up with so far: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($223.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($86.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Kingston Fury Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($140.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Red 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 280X 3GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($292.98 @ Newegg) Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($86.98 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: AOC i2267Fw 60Hz 22.0" Monitor ($129.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1353.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-07-26 00:34 EDT-0400
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Jul 26, 2014 05:40
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Assuming this is standard-issue gaming and occasional dicking around with stuff that's vaguely productive? Anyone got The Frog going "buy it"? I'm pretty sure it isn't a standard smilie. Note that you CAN opt for a micro-ATX case if you like your computers smaller rather than larger, but that's already a pretty pro-thread case. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Jul 26, 2014 |
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Jul 26, 2014 05:46
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Nana Bo Bana posted:I've finally decided to build a new machine to replace the fossil I'm currently using. The thing is... I've never built a computer before and I really don't know what the hell I'm doing. I've been reading through this thread and browsing some articles, but I could really use some help making sure I'm not screwing something up or spending money on things I don't need. I'd be using this primarily for gaming and I'm not looking to overclock. Here's what I've come up with so far: Looks good. Don't forget a wifi card if you want to use wifi.
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Jul 26, 2014 06:32
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I was hoping to build a new computer since only having a laptop has started getting old. I'd mostly be using it for gaming, web browsing, watching movies, and school work (writing papers, lab reports, etc). Running games at max quality isn't super important, as I'm fine with playing around with video settings as long as I get a good framerate running fullscreen. Pretty much everything was pulled from the suggested picks in the second post and $1200 is pretty much the upper limit of where I'd be willing to pay, so any advice if I can switch parts out to pay less without having to make any major sacrifices would be great. Wasn't planning on overclocking, but if doing so with a weaker processor would save me a significant amount, then I'd be willing to look into it. PCPartPicker part list CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ newegg) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($86.98 @ newegg) Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($76.99 @ amazon) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US) Video Card: MSI Radeon R7 265 2GB Video Card ($149.99 @ amazon) Case: Corsair 330R ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ amazon) Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ amazon) OS: Windows 8.1 Pro for Students ($69.99 @ microsoft store) Monitor: Asus VS207T-P 19.5" Monitor ($98.99 @ amazon) Wireless Network Adaptor: Intel 62205ANHMWDTX1 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($33.99 @ amazon) Mouse: Logitech G500s Laser Gaming Mouse Wired Laser Mouse ($52.48 @ amazon) Total: $1114.36
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Jul 26, 2014 07:00
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Captain McStabbin posted:I was hoping to build a new computer since only having a laptop has started getting old. I'd mostly be using it for gaming, web browsing, watching movies, and school work (writing papers, lab reports, etc). Running games at max quality isn't super important, as I'm fine with playing around with video settings as long as I get a good framerate running fullscreen. Pretty much everything was pulled from the suggested picks in the second post and $1200 is pretty much the upper limit of where I'd be willing to pay, so any advice if I can switch parts out to pay less without having to make any major sacrifices would be great. Wasn't planning on overclocking, but if doing so with a weaker processor would save me a significant amount, then I'd be willing to look into it. 1. Don't buy a non IPS monitor. IPS looks so much better, and they are perfectly affordable these days. 2. You should be able to get a Corsair Obsidian 350D or possibly a Nanoxia DS4 for the same price as that 330R. Both are better cases in my opinion than the 330R. 3. I suggest either a G400s or a G502 instead of the 500s. Have you already got a keyboard? I don't see one listed there. Pick Microsoft or Logitech for cheap and reliable, or go mechanical for something premium. 4. That R7-265 doesn't seem like good value to me. You can get the slightly more powerful R9-270 for $10 less: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/sapphire-video-card-100365l or the even more powerful R9-270X for $10 more: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-r9270xgaming2g I'd strongly advise getting the MSI 270X.
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Jul 26, 2014 07:21
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I am currently using a GTX570 in an old Core 2 Duo that I will be upgrading shortly. Right now my poor old overclocked CPU is the bottleneck, but will this card be fine for 1920x1080 medium-high graphics in modern day games?
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Jul 26, 2014 08:14
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The Lord Bude posted:1. Don't buy a non IPS monitor. IPS looks so much better, and they are perfectly affordable these days. Thanks for the quick input. I initially didn't include a keyboard because I figured I could probably find an old one lying around the house, but what the hell, in for a penny in for a pound. Never really built a computer before, so I appreciate the advice. However, I was planning on waiting till around black friday to actually purchase everything. Would it be worthwhile to hold on to this list until then? Or should I just use this as a learning experience for what to look for in parts and draw up a new build closer to when I actually purchase the parts?
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Jul 26, 2014 08:30
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Captain McStabbin posted:Thanks for the quick input. I initially didn't include a keyboard because I figured I could probably find an old one lying around the house, but what the hell, in for a penny in for a pound. Never really built a computer before, so I appreciate the advice. I would come back and check with us when you are ready to buy. Mrit posted:I am currently using a GTX570 in an old Core 2 Duo that I will be upgrading shortly. Right now my poor old overclocked CPU is the bottleneck, but will this card be fine for 1920x1080 medium-high graphics in modern day games? If you're happy playing at medium, yes. For high, maybe just barely. Performance seems to be just short of a gtx660. The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Jul 26, 2014 |
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Jul 26, 2014 09:20
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Assuming this is standard-issue gaming and occasional dicking around with stuff that's vaguely productive? Pretty much exactly for that, yes. I'm not trying to fit this is a tiny cabinet or anything, so I'm not too worried about the larger case. The Lord Bude posted:Looks good. Don't forget a wifi card if you want to use wifi. Noted. Thanks for the input folks, I appreciate it.
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Jul 26, 2014 09:49
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I am making a medium to high quality gaming rig that will also be used for home office work, web browsing and watching movies. I only have one monitor running 1080p. I was hoping to spend under $700, but it seems like that isn't really possible without sacrificing a little too much. I am saving a bit by using the OS, optical drives and hard drives from my old computer who's motherboard died on me. My only regret is not being able to fit an ssd in the build. But I might be able to get that down the line when I have some spare cash in the next few months. My hope with this build was being able to play some of the upcoming a list titles for the next two years or so without it chugging like crazy. I don't need super high quality graphics or high frame rates. Just respectable. Is this a realistic goal with this build and budget? Here is the parts I picked out based on the OP. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Micro Center) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($86.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($76.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 270X 2GB DirectCU II Video Card ($183.98 @ Newegg) Case: Silverstone PS07B MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($74.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($83.98 @ OutletPC) Total: $666.91 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-07-26 10:18 EDT-0400 Thanks for any input.
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Jul 26, 2014 15:21
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