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KillHour posted:But the 2015's coming out! I drove my RWD V8 E39 all winter, despite having a 4x4 on winter tires. We also got nearly 6 feet of snow in less than 2 months. Winter tires and rear wheel drive make winter fun. e: I don't know what the gently caress hyundai is trying to pull here, but the V6 genesis is 45 grand canadian, the v8 is 64 grand. e2: even worse, both the 550i and E550 are AWD only in canada. Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jul 26, 2014 |
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Jul 26, 2014 02:31
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Powershift posted:I drove my RWD V8 E39 all winter, despite having a 4x4 on winter tires. We also got nearly 6 feet of snow in less than 2 months. The Genesis is AWD only in Canada, as well. Also, the V8 is only available in the "Ultimate" trim, which unlike in the US, is not available on the V6. That's why the V8 is so expensive (has all the options possible, plus a $2500 option the US can't get). Edit for comparison (before destination and taxes): US 3.8 Ultimate (AWD): $51,500 US 5.0 Ultimate (RWD): $54,750 CAN 5.0 Ultimate (AWD): $62,000 US 3.8 Base (AWD): $40,500 CAN 3.8 Base (AWD): $43,000 Not terrible. KillHour fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Jul 26, 2014 |
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Jul 26, 2014 02:42
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leica posted:Well you could probably get the current Mazda 2 pretty drat cheap. Not even a single one on the local Mazda lot. Like I said earlier, my mother will want to test drive whatever we pick and I really doubt a dealer will do an inventory trade for a test drive.
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Jul 26, 2014 06:22
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 Came for old Honda laughs and got stupid hybrid new car poo poo....
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Jul 26, 2014 12:08
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Rhyno posted:MSRP? Really trying hard to not spoon feed you the "LMGTFY" answer, but you can pick up a 1.4L LT Sedan for around $16.5 after offers. Maybe a little better, check truecar.
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Jul 26, 2014 12:32
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Larrymer posted:Really trying hard to not spoon feed you the "LMGTFY" answer, but you can pick up a 1.4L LT Sedan for around $16.5 after offers. Maybe a little better, check truecar. We hit a few dealers right at the end of the night last night. She dug the Sonic and the Fiesta. Reviews on the Sonic are fairly unsettling but she was impressed. Both cars were priced at $15,800 which isn't bad at all. She doesn't really feel comfortable with my mother paying for a car like this so she wants to find something a bit older and cheaper. Edit: And wouldn't you know, right down the street (a few miles) is a dealer with a low mileage 2012 Fiesta for $12K. Gonna go check it out here in a bit. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Jul 26, 2014 |
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Jul 26, 2014 16:37
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Rhyno posted:My mother is a Honda fangirl so she's pushing Civic Hybrids and the Cr-Z. I just want to get the most reliable car for the money. Hyundai has the 10 year 100,000 mile warranty and the local Hyundai dealer has a promotion where they "double" that. I just want a car that won't be a headache week after week like the loving Beetle has been. Late to the table here. For the love of God, do not buy a Civic Hybrid. They don't return the mileage they promise, and I went through a battery pack in the second year I owned mine. Also had a lot of electrical issues (power windows, navigation, CEL lights). And trim issues (squeaks, rattles, sunvisors fell off). And suspension issues (rear wishbones were miscast, could not be aligned properly, ate rear tires). And both dealers treated me like a pariah ("Honda's don't have these kind of problems"). CRZ would also fall into the category of overpromise, underdeliver. Goober Peas fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jul 26, 2014 |
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Jul 26, 2014 17:32
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Just buy a fit, cheap and pretty useful. Or a fiat, they are the best! Comedy option being a crown vic.
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Jul 26, 2014 20:13
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Holdbrooks posted:Just buy a fit, cheap and pretty useful. Or a fiat, they are the best! Comedy option being a crown vic. Fiat's on the list!
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Jul 26, 2014 21:45
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So she took initiative, grabbed a friend and they went and checked out cars today. She drove a Fiesta, Sonic, Yaris, 3, Corolla, Cruze and a few others. She made a list of what she liked, how the cars drove, pros and cons etc. She found two that she liked so far http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...369781721&Log=0 http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...369956277&Log=0 Like I said before, she really feels like this would be taking advantage of my mother's generosity so she doesn't want to jump into a $18K car or anything so she's eyeballing used cars. I'm still pushing for new but used wouldn't be terrible, especially the Fiesta.
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Jul 27, 2014 06:39
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Get the Fiesta, the Corolla has 'careless driver' style body damage, a sucky colour and twice the mileage for only a $2k savings. Pry on the salesman until you get most of that $2k back, too. Pull his gold fillings out if you have to. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jul 27, 2014 |
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Jul 27, 2014 19:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Get the Fiesta, the Corolla has 'careless driver' style body damage, a sucky colour and twice the mileage for only a $2k savings. I'm going with her tomorrow to check out a few more cars but I like Fiestas and having a hatchback would be handy as hell. I can't wait to Tonight some Civic updates I promise!
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Jul 27, 2014 20:26
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So where were we? Right, old head and intake off.  VTEC head is on, gasketed, rtved and torqued into place. Cylinder 1 is at TDC, spark plugs in, ready to install the intake. Except that the VTEC solenoid is a bitch and the bolts I have are too long. And I can't put the intake on until it's in place because of clearance issues. So I put one engine mount bolt back just to be safe overnight and called it. I also grabbed some junk harness so I can pin the ECU properly. If I can find the correct bolts tomorrow I should have the engine fully assembled by nightfall.
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Jul 28, 2014 02:59
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Got quite a lot done but still not as much as I wanted. Intake is in, fuel rail in, distributor in, all wires and hoses reinstalled. So that left me with the timing belt to do. AC pulley was easy. Can not get the alternator to budge. Finally said gently caress it and called it a night. Won't be able to take another crack at it til later this week.
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Jul 29, 2014 03:22
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So I guess I need to pull the harmonic balancer first? This is not what the instructions I was following say to do. Easiest way to do this appears to be to toss a tow strap through the HB and hook it to a tow hook I guess?
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Jul 30, 2014 23:08
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Rhyno posted:So I guess I need to pull the harmonic balancer first? This is not what the instructions I was following say to do. Easiest way to do this appears to be to toss a tow strap through the HB and hook it to a tow hook I guess? Auto parts store with tool rental should have the honda crank pulley tool.
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Jul 31, 2014 18:23
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honda whisperer posted:Auto parts store with tool rental should have the honda crank pulley tool. I think I have a puller somewhere, there's just not a lot of room down there and I'd rather not pull the whole engine out if possible. Not gonna be able to get back at the car until Sunday though.
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Jul 31, 2014 18:58
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Rhyno posted:I think I have a puller somewhere, there's just not a lot of room down there and I'd rather not pull the whole engine out if possible. Not gonna be able to get back at the car until Sunday though. You could always use the chain trick as well. Worked fine for me getting the pulley off and back on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egXIuGtxnMc
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Jul 31, 2014 19:25
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Rhyno posted:I think I have a puller somewhere, there's just not a lot of room down there and I'd rather not pull the whole engine out if possible. Not gonna be able to get back at the car until Sunday though. Its not a press fit. The tool just holds the crank still while you loosen the bolt. No need to remove engine on a honda timing belt.
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Jul 31, 2014 19:58
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honda whisperer posted:Its not a press fit. The tool just holds the crank still while you loosen the bolt. No need to remove engine on a honda timing belt. Oh, good to know. I'll check with AZ on saturday after work.
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Jul 31, 2014 20:01
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AZ didn't have the tool. So gently caress it. I ran a tow strap through one of the holes, tied it to the tow hook and tried whacking it lose. No luck there. So up the car went, off came the wheel and I just impacted that fucker off. Then grabbed my two-jaw puller and slid the balancer off. Oil pan could probably use a clean up and new coat of rtv. I might do that before I fill up the oil, we'll see how I'm feeling tomorrow.  Was checking fitment and was going to slide the belt on when I remembered they recommend you change out the water pump when doing the timing belt.  Since I have it apart I think I'll just order that part and do it. I need a new alternator belt anyways. Thanks for your advice and help so far. With each small job on this project I feel more confident in my mechanical abilities.
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Aug 4, 2014 04:23
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You should also do the timing belt tensioner, front main seal, and cam seal.
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Aug 4, 2014 07:42
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some texas redneck posted:You should also do the timing belt tensioner, front main seal, and cam seal. Tensioner for sure. If the front main or cam seal leak do them but if they're dry I would leave it as is. Also no problem on the honda tips. Its nice to post in a honda thread that isn't about wheel offsets and wire tucks and whatnot.
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Aug 4, 2014 12:32
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There was absolutely no play in the tensioner or the WP. I think I'm going to put it together, wire it up and test it. If I was intending to drive this car as a daily I'd do them but I thin it'll be fine and if it blows up on my sister I'll just blame her for it.  Also, one last box showed up. 
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Aug 4, 2014 22:44
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Full exhaust is on. Is there a trick to the timing belt or do I just brute force it? And is there a trick to unpinning the ECU harness? I've pulled a few out of my junk harness but it's been a huge pain.
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Aug 5, 2014 04:14
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Rhyno posted:Full exhaust is on. Make sure the tensioner bolt is loose. Get the belt on the crank pulley, then over the tensioner and water pump, then line the belt up with the cam gear on the left side and pull slack up on the right side and over the gear. Unpinning just take some finesse and practice. Peel back part of the plug closer to the wires. Wiggle out the white thing in the plug. Then use a pin or needle to release the retaining clip inside the plug and it will slide right out with no effort. Steps 1&2 have little clip things you need to push in to release them as well.
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Aug 5, 2014 17:31
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honda whisperer posted:Make sure the tensioner bolt is loose. Get the belt on the crank pulley, then over the tensioner and water pump, then line the belt up with the cam gear on the left side and pull slack up on the right side and over the gear. Am I not just not seeing the timing marks on the crank that I'm not seeing? As I see it I don't see how I can set the cam and the crank to TDC once the belt is on because the timing cover will be in place and I then can't access the tensioner. God drat it soooooo close.
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Aug 5, 2014 20:55
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Rhyno posted:Am I not just not seeing the timing marks on the crank that I'm not seeing? As I see it I don't see how I can set the cam and the crank to TDC once the belt is on because the timing cover will be in place and I then can't access the tensioner. On the crank sprocket there's a line that's cut into it near the teeth. Match that up with the arrow that's on the block behind the sprocket to the top right.
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Aug 5, 2014 21:12
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Senior Funkenstien posted:On the crank sprocket there's a line that's cut into it near the teeth. Match that up with the arrow that's on the block behind the sprocket to the top right. Gotcha. I'll have to poke my face in with better light.
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Aug 5, 2014 22:33
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GUYS I FIGURED OUT UNPINNING HOLY poo poo I'M A GENIUS.
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Aug 7, 2014 05:39
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Pretty sure the TB in on properly and all timing is correct. I'm not 100% certain that the tensioner has popped back to where it's supposed to be but I got tired and came back upstairs. I did run my wires through the firewall though so I made a little progress.
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Aug 8, 2014 03:03
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Well poo poo. As I said in Senior Funkenstein's thread, I'm kind of scare to turn the car over. I was double checking everything and found that the timing is off at least one degree. I took it apart, realigned it and when I tightened the tensioner (as it instructs in the Haynes) I end up out of time every time by roughly 1 to 3 degrees. Everything is done other than this, car is wired, ready to slot the new pins into the harness, just can't get it to align properly.
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Aug 11, 2014 20:37
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Degrees, or teeth?
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Aug 11, 2014 20:42
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Degrees, or teeth? Teeth, sorry. Don't know why I equated them in my head. But I don't know how it can slipping teeth when I have it so meticulously aligned
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Aug 11, 2014 20:59
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Make sure all the slack in the belt is behind the tensioner. Otherwise, when you release it, any miniscule slack on the opposite side will cause the cam and crank to be off.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:17
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^^ this Sometimes move the cam a little before the mark, wrap the belt around it, and then move the cam to get all the slack off that side before slipping it onto the tensioner.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:26
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Also, turn it over by hand the first time. That way, if you are going to hit valves, you can feel them and stop. Plus it makes you feel better when it goes all the way around smoothly before you turn the key.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:27
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A trick Slow is Fast taught me a few weeks ago when we built my motor - use a C clamp or vise grips and a rag to clamp the belt onto the teeth in the right spot. Count teeth to the next spot you need to index, snake the belt through the pulleys to it, clamp it onto that pulley too. Repeat until done.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:51
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kastein posted:A trick Slow is Fast taught me a few weeks ago when we built my motor - use a C clamp or vise grips and a rag to clamp the belt onto the teeth in the right spot. Count teeth to the next spot you need to index, snake the belt through the pulleys to it, clamp it onto that pulley too. Repeat until done. Rhyno, you used screwdrivers or something to lock the cam gears in place, right? Apologies if you mentioned this and I missed it. When I did my Prelude, I used a silver Sharpie to mark the edge of the old belt, extending the markings onto the cam gears / crank sprocket. Then, transferred the markings to the new belt (with a tape measure to assist / make sure I didn't gently caress up) and slipped it into place, making sure that the marks on the gears / sprocket lined up with the marks on the new belt. Worked great, although I'm sure there's a faster / better way I could have done it.
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Aug 11, 2014 23:21
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Black88GTA posted:Rhyno, you used screwdrivers or something to lock the cam gears in place, right? Apologies if you mentioned this and I missed it. Yeah I wedged one in but the cam gear isn't moving, just the crank. Gonna try clamping the belt down here in a bit and giving it a go. blindjoe posted:Also, turn it over by hand the first time. That way, if you are going to hit valves, you can feel them and stop. Plus it makes you feel better when it goes all the way around smoothly before you turn the key. See I did this when I first put the belt on and I swore it turned smoothly. I don't know how it came out of time since then. Must not have tightened the tensioner fully.
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Aug 11, 2014 23:28
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