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I commissioned a few of these 1 pint tankards from our local coppersmith, he's sickeningly talented and this is like babby's first project stuff to him: The badge is a military cap badge of the Royal Guernsey Light Infantry, the local regiment that was essentially wiped out during WW1. The badges are recent re-strikes, made on the original dies by a Birmingham company. I'm part of a non-profit group that puts on displays and educational talks. The sale of these, of which there will be a maximum of 100 made, will hopefully help fund the group for the next 4 years.
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Jul 18, 2014 14:54
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ReelBigLizard posted:I commissioned a few of these 1 pint tankards from our local coppersmith, he's sickeningly talented and this is like babby's first project stuff to him: That is fantastic. How much, and will he ship the US?
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Jul 19, 2014 00:37
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If you do any kind of blacksmithing you need to watch this video. (If you just like big metalwork also watch it.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnCKGI7Fnm8
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Jul 19, 2014 20:08
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Amazing how slowly they have to work. I seem to recall an episode of How It's Made or something where the guy running the forging press was working insanely fast. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRA6RY2o9Lg&t=164s) Also it looks like they did they not temper it after hardening. Seems odd for a shaft. My German is pretty bad but I wanted to punch that narrator in the face after about two minutes.
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Jul 19, 2014 21:42
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Leperflesh posted:If you do any kind of blacksmithing you need to watch this video. I never tire of seeing industrial scale forging. I don't know much about machining, but I am also surprised that they machine after hardening and not after annealing. Sixide, I think it's odd too that they don't temper it. Maybe it's just not shown on the video.
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Jul 20, 2014 02:29
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Is it possible that the thermal mass is enough that even with a quench the interior cools slowly enough to end up less brittle? I'd also be curious to know what alloy they're using as that makes a big difference too.
TerminalSaint fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Jul 20, 2014 |
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Jul 20, 2014 02:34
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TerminalSaint posted:Is it possible that the thermal mass is enough that even with a quench the interior cools slowly enough to end up less brittle? I'd also be curious to know what alloy they're using as that makes a big difference too. I haven't done work like that, but I'd guess it's very possible. In the video sixide posted, they mentioned that they let it quench for five hours. If I'm recalling my materials processing class correctly, you need to cool it very, very quickly to form a significant amount of martensite. It varies by alloy, but I recall some being on the order of a few seconds for materials that are very difficult to harden, and minutes for other materials. There'd be a skin that's hardened, but once you machine past that, the bulk of the material should be good. I think I've got the textbook lying around the shop, I can look up some of the charts if people are interested. EDIT: Never mind, found one online. You want the diagram under Jominy number. Don't know what alloys they're using, but discounting 4340, most alloys have lost a fair bit of hardness by the end of the chart. And we're talking a lot slower than that for the bulk of the material. 4340 has an annealed hardness of 17 HRC, so that goes very slowly. I'm seeing 50 degrees/hour from here. I seriously doubt they're forging 4340, though. Karia fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Jul 20, 2014 |
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Jul 20, 2014 03:34
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Yeah they're taking something with a really enormous thermal mass and lowering into a fluid that looks like water to me. If they pull it out after a couple minutes it's still going to have a super-hot core that will radiate heat back out to the surface over the course of a few minutes, which could give them a temper. An alternative is that they temper it before cutting and that wasn't shown, perhaps because it's fairly boring compared to the glowing hot metal and the enormous lathe. What was surprising to me was that it looked like you basically had a guy deciding when and how much to press the metal, rather than a robot. I'd have thought that would produce results too inconsistent for what they're doing - making a really really big precision machine part that will be under enormous stress. That said, I desperately want to get to sit in that chair and use joysticks to mash a couple hundred tons of hot metal into whatever shape I felt like.
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Jul 20, 2014 05:49
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My German isn't all that great, but I do believe that's what they did: a "rough" forging of the metal, and then machining it to whatever specifications they need.
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Jul 20, 2014 05:53
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Leperflesh posted:If you do any kind of blacksmithing you need to watch this video. That's from "Sendung mit der Maus". That Narrator is pretty much unmistakeable. The target demographic is literally 10 years old.
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Jul 20, 2014 11:13
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Jul 20, 2014 18:24
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 Are Lilliputians being used as slave labour in the automotive industry? Catch our damning exposé at 9! Pagan posted:That is fantastic. How much, and will he ship the US? For one with the badge or just a plain one? Badged we're asking £55 (95 USD), I can do you an un-badged one for about £40 (70 USD). I work for an e-commerce site that ships internationally so I'm sure I can work out a way to get it stateside.
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Jul 21, 2014 09:04
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So my balls shriveled up on the great espresso machine boiler project. I have a friend who is an expert welder who clued me in on what to do, and my brother who is a certified boiler inspector told me how it (could possibly) go boom and kill someone. Moving along, does anyone have any experience with hossfeld benders? What dies are universal enough to do 80% of the work out there, is a hydraulic ram really necessary? I want to make gocarts and luggage racks for motorcycles (I'm just kinda blue skying here).
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Jul 22, 2014 03:39
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Made some fancy chain. Cut n welded myself some extra-large copper jump rings, twisted them a uniform number of rotations with two pieces of rod to maintain the shape of the eyes, used pliers to finagle each link back into straightness (they looove to warp and do weird stuff when hand-twisted), hammered em flat and strung everything together with more jumprings. 
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Jul 23, 2014 01:11
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Looks nice! You mentioned that you recently got a little torch - I assume you mean the "Smith Little Torch". How is it? I've been using a plumbers torch with a b tank of acetlyene for years, and it is really imprecise for any small work. I've thought about picking one of those up numerous times.
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Jul 23, 2014 17:11
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It's very nice, bearing in mind that I haven't done a ton with it yet. The usual 2-7 tip range that comes with the starter box is real comprehensive and should cover most of the smaller work you want to do. I can't even use the 2 tip properly with my cheapie oxygen regulator tailored for larger torches, so maybe consider picking up the bigger set with the special low-pressure regulators, if you find yourself doing small stuff or thin sheet with any consistency.
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Jul 23, 2014 23:29
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G99 G01 Z-3.0 F1.0 
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Jul 25, 2014 00:49
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oxbrain posted:G99 G01 Z-3.0 F1.0 haha well that was silly!
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Jul 25, 2014 01:07
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oxbrain posted:G99 G01 Z-3.0 F1.0 I think you're mistaken, you're looking for this thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3558051 
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Jul 25, 2014 01:38
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ReelBigLizard posted:
I would be mad interested. Just to check, is it usable, or is it one of those leaded insides that's just for looks? I'm in the UK, is there some way to order it?
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Jul 25, 2014 11:24
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at the date posted:haha well that was silly! The trouble with live tooling lathes is you keep switching back and forth between 98 and 99.
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Jul 25, 2014 14:30
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Vindolanda posted:I would be mad interested. Just to check, is it usable, or is it one of those leaded insides that's just for looks? I'm in the UK, is there some way to order it? Completely useable! lead-free solder and fully tin plated on the inside. I'm putting a page up this weekend where people can order them. Going to get the next run of 10 in about 1-2 weeks. The first three testers flew off the stall at our display on the weekend:   Excuse the terrible cell phone panorama. This was just a small display we put on last minute for the local Red Cross Fete.
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Jul 25, 2014 14:57
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ReelBigLizard posted:Completely useable! lead-free solder and fully tin plated on the inside. I'm putting a page up this weekend where people can order them. Going to get the next run of 10 in about 1-2 weeks. The first three testers flew off the stall at our display on the weekend: Amazing. I can't wait. You said there were ones without the badge, right? It would feel wrong to use one with a regimental insignia if I hadn't been in that regiment.
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Jul 25, 2014 21:02
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What kind of oil do you quench steel in to harden it? I am going to be making some tapered reamers on my lathe and mill and need to harden the cold roll after I cut the steel.
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Jul 25, 2014 22:27
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Brekelefuw posted:What kind of oil do you quench steel in to harden it? Most any oil works. I've used everything from linseed, to used motor oil. What ever I had a surplus on hand. I use canola or peanut more than anything since I can buy a 5 gallon jug for $10 Edit: I can apparently buy a 55 gallon drum of used motor oil for $100. Stinks to high heaven when you quench in it and smokes like a bbq but good stuff usually. Kasan fucked around with this message at 11:27 on Jul 26, 2014 |
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Jul 25, 2014 22:49
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I just looked up some quenching on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kb8uAByCcfM This is some serious quenching. The sound is a bit loud, so turn down.
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Jul 26, 2014 01:05
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We're scrapping some old equipment at work that has a lot of 3/16 wall stainless steel pipe but most of it has aluminum or copper fittings on the ends. Boss said if I want I can chop the fittings off and scrap it myself. With fittings is around 20 cents a pound, without would be a little over 60 cents a pound, I'm guessing we have 1000lb or more. So what is the best way to cut stainless steel pipe quickly? I have access to a few chop saws and a band saw but at the moment both are setup for mild steel.
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Jul 26, 2014 19:23
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Hu Fa Ted posted:So my balls shriveled up on the great espresso machine boiler project. I have a friend who is an expert welder who clued me in on what to do, and my brother who is a certified boiler inspector told me how it (could possibly) go boom and kill someone. I know this post is a little old but I just saw it and don't want you to give up on delicious espresso! Have you seen the Mythbusters episode on hot water tanks exploding? The boiler in your espresso machine has similar safety features that the Mythbusters had to override to make this happen. It will have a high temperature shut down and a pressure relief valve, either will avoid catastrophic failure. If your welds blow out at a pressure lower than the setting of your pressure relief valve it will not cause anything harm because the relief valve is set to a safe pressure. Of course steam is dangerous but it's useful as heck for things like electricity and coffee so we are really careful about the sort of thing. NitroSpazzz posted:We're scrapping some old equipment at work that has a lot of 3/16 wall stainless steel pipe but most of it has aluminum or copper fittings on the ends. Boss said if I want I can chop the fittings off and scrap it myself. With fittings is around 20 cents a pound, without would be a little over 60 cents a pound, I'm guessing we have 1000lb or more. The bandsaw should just work without modification and the chopsaw should work too as most abraisive discs I've used are rated for both stainless and mild steel just be careful to not gum it up on the aluminum though because that can cause disc failure. But yeah, verify your disc and go to town with the chop saw/grinder/saw. This is assuming you don't care about contaminating the stainless with carbon steel since it's just scrap anyway. SmokeyXIII fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Jul 26, 2014 |
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Jul 26, 2014 20:32
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SmokeyXIII posted:I know this post is a little old but I just saw it and don't want you to give up on delicious espresso! Have you seen the Mythbusters episode on hot water tanks exploding? The boiler in your espresso machine has similar safety features that the Mythbusters had to override to make this happen. It will have a high temperature shut down and a pressure relief valve, either will avoid catastrophic failure. If your welds blow out at a pressure lower than the setting of your pressure relief valve it will not cause anything harm because the relief valve is set to a safe pressure. Of course steam is dangerous but it's useful as heck for things like electricity and coffee so we are really careful about the sort of thing. This is dangerous advice. The safety device is set for a safe working pressure with the original tank in good condition. If a home made weld blows out just below that pressure it's still gonna sent shrapnel everywhere.
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Jul 26, 2014 20:43
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Motronic posted:This is dangerous advice. The thing is that when you are below the pressure relief setting, the pressure is very low, only a few PSI and as such there will not be shrapnel. If the steam pressure was that high you could never work with it, milk would be everywhere. I'd repair the welds, and replace the relief valve with new and have a wicked espresso machine.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:09
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SmokeyXIII posted:The thing is that, below the pressure relief setting, the pressure is very low, only a few PSI so there will not be shrapnel. If the steam pressure was that high you could never work with it, milk would be everywhere. I'd repair the welds, and replace the relief valve with new and have a wicked espresso machine. Espresso machines operate at and above 9 bar depending on model. This is 130 PSI. So the relief valve is set even higher. Have you ever had a metal vessel at even 100 PSI explode near you? It's not pretty. And in this case it full of scalding water and steam.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:12
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NitroSpazzz posted:We're scrapping some old equipment at work that has a lot of 3/16 wall stainless steel pipe but most of it has aluminum or copper fittings on the ends. Boss said if I want I can chop the fittings off and scrap it myself. With fittings is around 20 cents a pound, without would be a little over 60 cents a pound, I'm guessing we have 1000lb or more. Abrasive on stainless is dirty and smelly and work hardens the material and kind of sucks; I use a bandsaw with a good bimetal blade for almost everything, but it's slow if you have a lot to do. The best option might be a carbide chop saw blade, but I think standard saws run too fast to just slap a new blade in so you'd be looking at something like this one.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:14
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Motronic posted:Espresso machines operate at and above 9 bar depending on model. This is 130 PSI. So the relief valve is set even higher. That's pump pressure, think about trying to froth milk with the pressure of a hose from an air compressor, it's not happening. I had a tube explode near me at 2000psi! Pretty proud of myself for not pooping in my pants to be honest.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:15
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SmokeyXIII posted:That's pump pressure, think about trying to froth milk with the pressure of a hose from an air compressor, it's not happening. Obviously you don't froth milk at that pressure, which is why the frother has a restricted orifice and valve on it.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:22
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Motronic posted:This is dangerous advice. This sounds about right, don't gently caress with pressure vessels. You could try a premade vessel, maybe something like a little scuba tank or air compressor tank. I'm not sure if either of those would work for what you're doing but there's all sorts of pressure vessels floating around that you could probably try and repurpose. I still wouldn't want to modify one but it should be possible to find something you can plumb in.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:36
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Motronic posted:Obviously you don't froth milk at that pressure, which is why the frother has a restricted orifice and valve on it. Bernoulli's Principle. Think about putting your thumb on a garden hose, restricting pressure increases flow. It's all pump pressure, the steam is at low pressure.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:40
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SmokeyXIII posted:The bandsaw should just work without modification and the chopsaw should work too as most abraisive discs I've used are rated for both stainless and mild steel just be careful to not gum it up on the aluminum though because that can cause disc failure. But yeah, verify your disc and go to town with the chop saw/grinder/saw. This is assuming you don't care about contaminating the stainless with carbon steel since it's just scrap anyway. King of Gulps posted:Abrasive on stainless is dirty and smelly and work hardens the material and kind of sucks; I use a bandsaw with a good bimetal blade for almost everything, but it's slow if you have a lot to do. The best option might be a carbide chop saw blade, but I think standard saws run too fast to just slap a new blade in so you'd be looking at something like this one. Thanks for the feedback, I'll swing by home depot or similar later and see what they charge for carbide chop saw blades. Need to figure out if it's worth the time/mess to cut up all this stuff. I'm guessing three full gaylord boxes of flex hose would take most of a full day to chop up. Will toss it on the freight scale and see how much weight we have then go from there.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:44
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Anyone have a lathe and interested in making (& selling) me some dies for a ring roller I'd like to make? Tired of bending metal around logs, pipes and barrels. Description: three 1" diameter by 2" long steel cylinders with a 3/8" diameter knurled groove through which the round bar stock will pass. End of each cylinder is turned down so it can be sandwiched between plates without bearings. I am making this up as I go so flexible on diameter, length and material for the rollers. The groove can be round or angular but should be knurled so it can grip the bar stock. I have a SketchUp model of the whole assembly and will turn that into a blueprint/schematic as needed.
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Jul 27, 2014 01:51
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 Fun little project I cut today. About three hours of cut time total, but totally worth it for the surface finish. I'll probably throw it in the mass finisher on Monday, and then possibly put in the burnishing media to get a polished finish. EDIT: Agh, that broke tables.
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Jul 27, 2014 07:36
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A blacksmithing family friend kicked me this to puzzle over. "How did I make this, and particularly, how did I join the two scrollwork components?"  I know he cold-bent the scroll sections and did a chop-n-weld for the intersection; I'm thinking that he bolted the two finished scrollwork sections together, drilled holes clear through, and used steel balls as spacers that he welded in place from the inside of the drilled holes, and then backfilled with steel until completely filled in. I think I can see the supposed hole outline on the scrollwork aligning with the top ball.
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Jul 28, 2014 00:29
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