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binarysmurf posted:I'm looking to upgrade my headphones. in-built mic and media controls are necessary. Get the Rocki-It R-50. They won't be the best for EDM or hip-hop, but guitars are brilliant on them. They have a mic version.
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# ? Jul 27, 2014 14:14 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 23:48 |
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These sound descriptions are incredibly confusing. I tried looking up the Audio Technica M50 and there it says it has clean sound and even equalisation, but in the buying guide it says they're bassy, V-shaped and have recessed mids. Why are they different and does it even matter? Looking over the recommendations, the terms "neutral", "excellent", "accurate", "good", "smooth", "detailed", "great", "balanced", "well defined" and "decent" all seem to blend together to say 'it will sound nice', even though some of those have actual definitions in the glossaries. If I'm just some shmuck that wants to get some quality all-around sounding headphones, what words should I be looking for? Or are all the choices fine and the details don't really affect much?
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# ? Jul 28, 2014 00:47 |
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Mush Man posted:These sound descriptions are incredibly confusing. I tried looking up the Audio Technica M50 and there it says it has clean sound and even equalisation, but in the buying guide it says they're bassy, V-shaped and have recessed mids. Why are they different and does it even matter? Words used to describe sound are incredibly subjective. The best thing to do, if it's an option for you, is to find a place that lets you actually try out some headphones with music that you're familiar with. Barring that, some place with a good return policy. Additionally, what your point of reference is also important. If you've only ever used packed-in earbuds, almost anything that's pretty well regarded will probably be a big step up; whereas someone who already have a decent pair of headphones may find that another brand/model that's higher end may actually have a sound that they like less.
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# ? Jul 28, 2014 01:04 |
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Is it worth it to replace the drivers on a pair of Sennheiser HD600s? I've had these things for over fourteen years now and even though they've been mostly babied over the years they still have seen better days. The ear foams and headband foams are totally shot, and the left driver is sort of buzzy with some really low bass notes (Electric Wizard is practically unlistenable if only because it's so annoyingly prevalent). I'm getting ready to replace the foams, and I thought I would look into replacing one or both drivers, as I'd imagine it would make sense to do both just so they are evenly worn, not unlike brake rotors. Is this at all possible/feasible, or would I just be better off replacing them outright? The foams alone will cost somewhere in the range of $70 and I'm not about to dump any more than about $150 in the maintenance of these.
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# ? Jul 28, 2014 01:40 |
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Jadius posted:Is it worth it to replace the drivers on a pair of Sennheiser HD600s? I've had these things for over fourteen years now and even though they've been mostly babied over the years they still have seen better days. The ear foams and headband foams are totally shot, and the left driver is sort of buzzy with some really low bass notes (Electric Wizard is practically unlistenable if only because it's so annoyingly prevalent). I'm getting ready to replace the foams, and I thought I would look into replacing one or both drivers, as I'd imagine it would make sense to do both just so they are evenly worn, not unlike brake rotors. Is this at all possible/feasible, or would I just be better off replacing them outright? The foams alone will cost somewhere in the range of $70 and I'm not about to dump any more than about $150 in the maintenance of these. The HD580/600/650 are probably the most repair-friendly headphones around, since you can replace practically every part. Sennheiser USA website doesn't show the driver, but they definitely are available for order, so give them a call and they'll give you a quote. If you want to replace both drivers then the cost might come out a bit over $150 (a 2012 post on Head-Fi says they were over $60 each), but not by that much, and considering that you're basically getting a new pair of HD600s at that point, it's still worth it if you like the headphones. I've had mine for not quite as long (probably like 11-12 years at this point), and I've had to replace the headband foam and earpads once each, and they remain my most frequently used pair due to the comfort and sound signature that I like. E: Actually, they are available on Sennheiser's website, for $58: http://en-us.sennheiser.com/system-300r
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# ? Jul 28, 2014 01:54 |
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GokieKS posted:The HD580/600/650 are probably the most repair-friendly headphones around, since you can replace practically every part. Sennheiser USA website doesn't show the driver, but they definitely are available for order, so give them a call and they'll give you a quote. If you want to replace both drivers then the cost might come out a bit over $150 (a 2012 post on Head-Fi says they were over $60 each), but not by that much, and considering that you're basically getting a new pair of HD600s at that point, it's still worth it if you like the headphones. I've had mine for not quite as long (probably like 11-12 years at this point), and I've had to replace the headband foam and earpads once each, and they remain my most frequently used pair due to the comfort and sound signature that I like. Nice, thanks! $150 was just a ballpark, but what I really meant I guess is that I see no point in paying say $100 a driver, but upgrading them to new status for ~$200 is totally acceptable. I suppose there's little stopping me from dropping in 650 drivers instead, is there? In the meantime I just took them apart and cleaned 14 years worth of hair and ear dirt out of them and I kinda want to vomit. I probably should have replaced the foams a long time ago.
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# ? Jul 28, 2014 02:20 |
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Jadius posted:Nice, thanks! $150 was just a ballpark, but what I really meant I guess is that I see no point in paying say $100 a driver, but upgrading them to new status for ~$200 is totally acceptable. I suppose there's little stopping me from dropping in 650 drivers instead, is there? Yeah, you can put in HD650 drivers - they're fully interchangeable. I don't see them on their website, but I'm sure they'll sell you a pair if you call them up asking for it.
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# ? Jul 28, 2014 03:13 |
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Mush Man posted:These sound descriptions are incredibly confusing. I tried looking up the Audio Technica M50 and there it says it has clean sound and even equalisation, but in the buying guide it says they're bassy, V-shaped and have recessed mids. Why are they different and does it even matter? Because product descriptions are marketing bullshit.
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# ? Jul 28, 2014 17:14 |
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Mush Man posted:These sound descriptions are incredibly confusing. I tried looking up the Audio Technica M50 and there it says it has clean sound and even equalisation, but in the buying guide it says they're bassy, V-shaped and have recessed mids. Why are they different and does it even matter? Most of the descriptions are white noise, but after a while you get really good at filtering them. If you're not looking straight into the frequency graph of the headphone you need a truckload of reviews in order to have any meaningful data to filter, though. V-shaped and recessed mids mean the same thing, it means the mids have lower volume/impact than the lows and the highs, which means vocal sounds lower than usual (more "recessed"). Of course without seeing the actual tested headphone curve that means jack poo poo because the guy might be used to a headphone with boosted mids or the guy might be bullshitting you or what not. You need some weapons-grade synesthesia to get through the terms: code:
They use a lot of the texture analogy which drives everyone crazy. Mud has a low-frequency noise texture and is kinda amorphous, for example. "Good soundstage" usually refers to feeling like the sound is coming from the outside. They'll usually call it "airy" (because the longer you are from the sound source the more the waves are influenced by, uh, the air) and that usually means recessed lower mids. The opposite of Airy is Forward. So you'll rarely see a "forward" headphone being said to have "good soundstage". That's the most sense I could make from the terms, someone feel free to correct me. Elentor fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Jul 28, 2014 |
# ? Jul 28, 2014 17:59 |
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Midorka posted:...product descriptions are marketing bullshit. Please bold, siren, and make flashing in the OP.
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# ? Jul 28, 2014 18:09 |
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Has anyone heard either of these AT IEMs? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_i=507846 http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATHCOR150RD--Ear-Headphones/dp/B00BIDH86W/ref=sr_1_74?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1406573155&sr=1-74
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# ? Jul 28, 2014 19:46 |
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Are the Seinnheiser HD439 or HD449 any good? They're on sale so they're within my price range. Also I was reading reviews about burn in time or something, is that real or just more retarded bullshit.
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# ? Jul 29, 2014 08:23 |
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I'm in Europe and there are no Pistons available here with shipping from Amazon. Is it somewhat safe to order them straight from alibaba off a seller with 300+ confirmed and rated Piston sales?
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# ? Jul 29, 2014 12:27 |
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I think the OP mentions that burn-in is scientifically bullshit. Your ears may need to get used to a new sound signature, but small drivers don't require burn-in anymore than large speakers.
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# ? Jul 29, 2014 13:03 |
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the panacea posted:I'm in Europe and there are no Pistons available here with shipping from Amazon. Is it somewhat safe to order them straight from alibaba off a seller with 300+ confirmed and rated Piston sales? I also live in Europe and the pistons from the boaty guy linked here shipped just fine?
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# ? Jul 30, 2014 19:39 |
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So after 2+ years and 2 warranty replacements I lost my B&W C5s on the trolley, I'm not too broken up about it but I really liked them and I spent almost $200 on them, on the other hand, over two years of use so I'm not heart broken. Before I go out and buy another pair is there anything else I should seriously consider in the same-ish or lower price range? I really liked them and how secure they were in my ears, I had no complaints about the sound, maybe a little rattle on occasion. Oh and the construction felt a little fragile but they replaced them twice under warranty with no questions so that was't a huge deal. The thing I liked most about them is how secure they stayed in my ears, part of the reason I lost them is as they hit the 2 year out of warranty mark I decided to start using them to walk the dogs in figuring they were getting near the end of their useful life anyways. I think I am going to get good pair of working out headphones, probably Bluetooth (Plantronics BackBeat GO 2 or Jaybirds) and then another pair of higher quality in-ears, I would like to stay under the $200 range, similar quality and sound to the B&W C5s if not another pair. Past ear phones that I have owned were: Shure E4c: Liked the sound, cord noise was annoying and didn't stay seated in my ears very well. Shure E3c: Meh Etymotic Research ER6: Owned forever and ever ago, liked but way too fragile "Nice" Budget: $100-$200, maybe higher Source: iPhone/Android Isolation Requirements: Strong, I want the world to float away regardless of where I am, the B&W C5s and Shure E4cs did a great job of this, would not complain about better Preferred type of headphone: In-Ear Preferred tonal balance: Neutal/balanced, I would like a wider sound, maybe leaning towards the bass as long as it didn't get muddy Past headphones: B&W C5, Shure E4c Preferred music: Trip-Hop, Jazz, House, electronic As far as Bluetooth if anyone has any suggestions for something in-ear, I'm probably going to get the Plantronics BackBeat GO 2 or Jaybirds, most likely the Backbeat Go 2s, I mostly just want them to listen to podcasts while I am working out. Three Olives fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jul 30, 2014 |
# ? Jul 30, 2014 20:50 |
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Trompe le Monde posted:Are the Seinnheiser HD439 or HD449 any good? They're on sale so they're within my price range. Also I was reading reviews about burn in time or something, is that real or just more retarded bullshit. I have a pair of HD439s and the only things I can say that are positive about them is they didn't make my ears bleed, and they were fairly comfortable for long use with my glasses. It's not offensively bad, it's just not great in any way.
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# ? Jul 30, 2014 20:56 |
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So I have some best buy vouchers and I want to buy some new headphones. I've narrowed it down to three choices: The polk nue voe, sony XBA H1, or the samsung level in (ig900). Does anyone have experience with any of these headphones (or any other suggestions from best buy's line-up)? I listen to a bit of everything but predominantly electronic music, so strong bass is a plus (it seems like all three have this). Any help much appreciated!
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# ? Jul 30, 2014 23:25 |
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Just throwing it out there that if anyone is in the $500 range for a good setup; I've had the HE-400 + schiit modi/magni for a year now and they're lovely for EDM(hardcore/freeflow).
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# ? Jul 30, 2014 23:49 |
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I have a Sennheiser pc360 headset that I use for music/games on my PC and lately the sounds muted from the left side, so I have the offer of exchanging it from Sennheiser for a new 363d for $175 + shipping. I'll probably go for it given a new pair costs at-least $270 here, but perhaps someone here can convince me there's a better choice in purchasing an around-ear headset or headphone + mic that doesn't require an amp.
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# ? Jul 31, 2014 01:32 |
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Can anyone recommend a decent mic? I have he400s and I like them, but would like to use it as a gaming set.
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# ? Jul 31, 2014 17:04 |
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Bonobos posted:Can anyone recommend a decent mic? I have he400s and I like them, but would like to use it as a gaming set. What is the mic for? If it just gaming, get whatever $20 one is available at your local electronics place (put it on your desk). If it's for voice recording, look up 'blue snowball'.
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# ? Jul 31, 2014 18:08 |
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I use a Blue Yeti with my HD600s because it also acts as a DAC that you can plug the headphones into for zero latency monitoring. It's kind of overkill for VoIP and gaming (though you can get it on sale for not *too* much - I think I paid $80 for it), but it works great and is probably the last mic I'll ever need to buy for my computer.
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# ? Jul 31, 2014 23:00 |
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I was using Sennheiser HD280s as headphones for a long time that were worn out. I bought Sennheiser HD598 headphones, and while the audio quality is excellent in comparison I really miss the isolation from outside noise (closed vs open back). New earpads and headband thing form my HD280 is $50 so I was considering just buying Audio-Technica ATH-M30x/M40x/M50x. Does anyone have this headphone? how is the isolation and comfort when wearing for long periods? Whats the difference between the different models?
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# ? Aug 1, 2014 04:16 |
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Manta posted:I was using Sennheiser HD280s as headphones for a long time that were worn out. I bought Sennheiser HD598 headphones, and while the audio quality is excellent in comparison I really miss the isolation from outside noise (closed vs open back). New earpads and headband thing form my HD280 is $50 so I was considering just buying Audio-Technica ATH-M30x/M40x/M50x. Does anyone have this headphone? how is the isolation and comfort when wearing for long periods? Whats the difference between the different models? The OP will be here any second to call them rubbish, but I think if you loved the 280pros, you'll like the ath-m50. They have a lot of the same attributes. Foldable, similar pleather pads, coiled or straight cable, similar isolation. The AT's have a more durable headband than the sennheisers. Kind of a confined sound, but the 280s had that too. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Aug 1, 2014 |
# ? Aug 1, 2014 04:26 |
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z06ck posted:Just throwing it out there that if anyone is in the $500 range for a good setup; I've had the HE-400 + schiit modi/magni for a year now and they're lovely for EDM(hardcore/freeflow). I wish I would have followed suit. I pony'd up for 650's, asgard/bifrost and it's a bit overkill. Lovely for EDM but I'd be interested to hear your setup... I doubt I am doing the difference justice.
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# ? Aug 1, 2014 17:40 |
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Midorka posted:I love the R-50 for everything but electronic. Guitars are phenomenal on them. Ended up going with the R-50s. Got here yesterday. They are drastically different sounding than my Etymotics but in a good way and I am enjoying them a lot so far. My only complaint are the memory wire ear-loop bits are a bit fiddly to get actually around my ears, but that probably just my goony head/ears shape.
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# ? Aug 1, 2014 22:58 |
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Nah, the memory wire isn't that great imo. What do you like/dislike about them?
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# ? Aug 2, 2014 04:09 |
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Like: Mid range/Treble: Super accurate and clear. Really noticeable on guitars like you mentioned and all strings really. Found myself playing through anything them them and picking out detail I had not really noticed before. Sound stage is wide and deep with good separation. I like the silicon coating on the units adds a little bit of comfort. They also seem to sit enough in my ears that I can lay on my side and the sound doesn't get weird/muffled from the tip getting pushed further in. The cords, minus the memory part is pretty nice and seems to untangle quickly. Middle ground: The bass, maybe: The bass is actually seems very nice. There's good amount of mid and low bass that's clear with no muddiness, it does however lack the punch you want for a 4 to floor EDM track. So far I'm happy with the bass but I can understand why people would find it lacking. Dislike: The memory wire as mentioned. Not a huge fan of the tips so far. Have only run the ones that were on there in the box but I feel like I'm not getting as good of a seal as I would like. I will try the smaller ones, and if all else fails I still have a few triple flange tip sets from my Etymotics and I will try them. Of course this all with only a couple hours of use so everything has the shiny and new novelty factor to it. Also everything I've listened to has been through my Sansa, haven't tried anything through an amp yet. biggfoo fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Aug 2, 2014 |
# ? Aug 2, 2014 09:49 |
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In all honesty I think the R-50 might have the best mid-range I've ever heard. Hopefully you can resolve the tip issue though, that's a bummer.
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# ? Aug 2, 2014 13:40 |
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I am sure tips and the memory wire will be just fine. I just need to sit down and fiddle with them, but I have been more interested in just listening to things than working on that.
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# ? Aug 2, 2014 19:53 |
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Anyone have opinions on/experience with the AIAIAI Tracks? They're half price locally.
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# ? Aug 3, 2014 22:00 |
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Is the difference between the Etymotic ER-4PT and the HF3/5 worth the price difference? Thanks! Pappyland fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Aug 4, 2014 |
# ? Aug 4, 2014 02:53 |
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If you're interested in active noise cancelling, Daily Steal has the Bose QC15 for $199: http://www.dailysteals.com/#d/29559
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# ? Aug 4, 2014 05:29 |
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Josh Lyman posted:If you're interested in active noise cancelling, Daily Steal has the Bose QC15 for $199: http://www.dailysteals.com/#d/29559 Under condition, they're classified as "recertified." What exactly does that imply?
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# ? Aug 4, 2014 06:27 |
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Shif posted:Under condition, they're classified as "recertified." What exactly does that imply? Returned as defective, repaired by Bose or a registered repair shop. Generally a shorter warranty than new.
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# ? Aug 4, 2014 06:42 |
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grack posted:Returned as defective, repaired by Bose or a registered repair shop. Generally a shorter warranty than new. Truly repaired, or not worth the risk? Also, is it normal for Bose's noise-cancelling sets to seriously lack in the lows? A good friend of mine recently purchased (model unknown) a pair and I promptly tested out a drum and bass track. Much to my chagrin, the highs and mids were mildly penetrating, and the lows muffled at best. I tested with the noise-cancelling both activated and deactivated with trifle difference in quality produced. Could it be they were defective?
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# ? Aug 4, 2014 07:25 |
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I'm finally moving from my Modi/Magni. I was thinking of going Little Dot 1+, but that would have been a stop-gap. What I'm really eying is the WA6 or the WA7. WA6 would be my first choice but I may spring for the WA7 depending on how low it gets if it wins on Massdrop.
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# ? Aug 4, 2014 09:12 |
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Shif posted:Truly repaired, or not worth the risk? Also, is it normal for Bose's noise-cancelling sets to seriously lack in the lows? A good friend of mine recently purchased (model unknown) a pair and I promptly tested out a drum and bass track. Much to my chagrin, the highs and mids were mildly penetrating, and the lows muffled at best. I tested with the noise-cancelling both activated and deactivated with trifle difference in quality produced. Could it be they were defective? That's just Bose. I think the saying goes, "no highs, no lows, must be Bose."
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# ? Aug 4, 2014 14:15 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 23:48 |
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Shif posted:Truly repaired, or not worth the risk? Also, is it normal for Bose's noise-cancelling sets to seriously lack in the lows? A good friend of mine recently purchased (model unknown) a pair and I promptly tested out a drum and bass track. Much to my chagrin, the highs and mids were mildly penetrating, and the lows muffled at best. I tested with the noise-cancelling both activated and deactivated with trifle difference in quality produced. Could it be they were defective? QC15s have quite a bit of bass. Were these the on-ear or over-ear model? The on-ear ones are less bass-heavy I imagine. edit: must not have been QC15s, they don't have an option to use them without the noise canceling. ddogflex fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Aug 4, 2014 |
# ? Aug 4, 2014 19:00 |