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Ravendas posted:I'm making a Necromunda table. I bought an 8'x4' sheet of MDF hardboard at a Home Depot here, and had him cut it in half for a 4'x4' table top, then the remaining half into 12" strips. It's very flat and smooth, and should be just fine on a 3'x3' table. I think I might make myself one of those tables posted a few posts up there. Either that, or just a supporting rim around it to keep it straight and steady when I place it on a card table.
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Jul 30, 2014 22:26
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Paolomania posted:Would you happen to be talking about these 8'x4' MDF panels? It seems like a great surface for under $15. Is it true that it act like a massive whiteboard? Does it seem like it holds up on its own or will it need a backing? It's 3/16" thick so I imagine it needs a decent amount of bracing if it's not laid on top of a table.
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Jul 30, 2014 22:43
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Also be wary of storing it resting it up on one side without bracing, it'll warp over time. Bane of my existence that.
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Jul 30, 2014 23:39
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BATTLEZONE POST!!!! I decided to try showing off what you can do with mixed sets. I found out some interesting tidbits. Here is a reinforced radio tower for you.  I was able to take advantage of the Urban, Defense Line, Fortified, and Landing Pad sets in this one piece. However, it was not without some difficulty. Lessons Learned: 1- Fortified wall panels have these massive rivets in them, and half of it is thicker than the rest. This makes it so those corner braces are IMPOSSIBLE to fit onto the corners of two Fortified wall panels. You just can't do it without shearing off a couple of the rivets and accepting that either the top or the bottom is not going to be flush with the panel. Other panels are very easy to use for this, so plan ahead and either get your flush cutters out or be prepared for disappointment if you plan to do this. 2- Two guardrails attached to the same vertex will overlap. You're going to have to cut them. 3- Connectors are actually braces that hold poo poo in place. They don't just connect things. You will want to use them on both sides of any given connection where it is possible to do so. In order to keep this whole things straight I had to use a fuckload of connectors. Buy extra connector sprues. 4- Here's the big one: The longest of the Defense Line panels is the same length as the hypotenuse of the Landing Pad triangle panel! This allows you to make more interestingly-shaped buildings, as I have below. However, if you do this, be prepared to do something with the opening you create. Regular panels won't work. I achieved my desired look by using two of the garage door side things from the Fortified set. I imagine a strider should be able to fit through there.  I'm going to continue trying to make interesting shapes, not just cubed buildings. I dislike cube buildings, and I feel like Deadzone should be able to accommodate more than cubes. I might try to make a fully suspended stage set for Deadzone, like you're fighting on a Halo map or something. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 03:31
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By the way, this came up in IRC. Not trying to shill but, if any goon wants to, I am more than willing to use the parts I have to make buildings on request and sell the building as a set of parts, or assembled, or assembled + painted. I'm doing this for fun, but if I build all this terrain I'm going to end up with way more than I'll ever use at once. No price gouging or anything, I'd do a transparent breakdown of costs. I would benefit from having fun building stuff, and you can benefit by not having to buy all the different terrain sets to build what you want! That said I'll also take requests just to see what I can make out of someone else's idea, and post that here to show you an example of what you can do with this stuff!
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Jul 31, 2014 16:44
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What style of buildings? Like, sci-fi/industrial, fantasy, or ?
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Jul 31, 2014 16:47
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Bad Munki posted:What style of buildings? These BattleZone buildings I've been posting. It's kind of expensive to make buildings that use all the different possible pieces, because you have to buy sets. And you'll probably have leftover stuff. I am saying I'll part out kits from a large collection, so people can just buy the buildings they want to make instead of having to buy a shitload of stuff they don't want.
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Jul 31, 2014 17:05
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Ohhh, I get it. I don't pay attention so good. 
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Jul 31, 2014 17:20
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Does anybody know of a place I can get those static grass/foliage "tufts" in bulk? http://www.warlordgames.com/tutorial-how-to-use-army-painter-tufts/ Like this stuff.
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Jul 31, 2014 18:16
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Numlock posted:Does anybody know of a place I can get those static grass/foliage "tufts" in bulk? http://www.sceneryexpress.com/ or search for "silfor tufts" on the Googles.
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Jul 31, 2014 18:23
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Numlock posted:Does anybody know of a place I can get those static grass/foliage "tufts" in bulk? As above, Silfor is a MUCH better deal than Army Painter. MUCH better.
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Jul 31, 2014 19:23
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Very good quality too in my opinion. Silflor rules
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Jul 31, 2014 19:29
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Ahha, thanks. I got a 15mm Soviet Infantry Battalion to base up (once of course, I finish painting them) so cheaper is better.
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Aug 1, 2014 00:10
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signalnoise posted:Also, if anyone is interested in buying some Hirst Arts molds, let me know. I'm not going to flood the page with a huge image so here's a link. Nevermind the bubbles, that's water from having just been washed. I've been...I've been hitting the plaster a little hard, guys.   I really like the inn molds, though!
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Aug 2, 2014 07:04
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Signalnoise that corner piece on fortifications sprue A is definitely meant to be a door, the door part only has one connector to make it easier to remove.
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Aug 2, 2014 15:53
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Phoon posted:Signalnoise that corner piece on fortifications sprue A is definitely meant to be a door, the door part only has one connector to make it easier to remove. Sure, but it's an anomaly amongst the rest of the terrain. Why make this bigass door that you can only really use one way? I dont like it. You could just as easily simply not use connectors on all sides of it.
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Aug 2, 2014 16:03
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Its meant to be for a large gate into an enclosed area rather than a door into a building - it works best with two pieces. I made a pretty decent gate this way but all my stuff is boxed away at the moment due to moving. But yeah it only really has that one specific use.
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Aug 2, 2014 16:15
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While looking for table ideas, I saw this picture: It looks like they made a modular table using these. It seems like this would make a durable and inexpensive play surface, if not world class in looks. Has anyone tried something similar?
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Aug 3, 2014 05:49
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OB_Juan posted:While looking for table ideas, I saw this picture: I've yet to try it myself, but I've seen a lot of similar tables using those kind of interlocking foam tiles. Seems to be a decent approach. There are plenty of tutorials out there if you look for them.
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Aug 3, 2014 16:06
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The sci-fi fortified district Battlezone is the deal of the day at Miniature Market. I picked up a couple, not a bad price.
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Aug 4, 2014 10:19
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Anyone have a good east coast source for hydrostone for hirst arts casts? Either that or casting plastic? I'd really like to find a decent source that doesn't involve some no name store from Indiana.
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Aug 4, 2014 16:59
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Where east coast? I'm in Erie, PA, and I ordered 50 pounds of excalibur or merlin's magic or whatever the hell it was, and didn't have any trouble. It was a drop shipment so while I placed the order from wherever, it shipped directly from the manufacturer. But if you actually live in a place that isn't a forgotten shithole, like, say, NYC, I know there are some places that carry it in an actual store you can just pick. So yeah, all depends on whereabouts you are.
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Aug 4, 2014 17:31
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Bad Munki posted:Where east coast? I'm in Erie, PA, and I ordered 50 pounds of excalibur or merlin's magic or whatever the hell it was, and didn't have any trouble. It was a drop shipment so while I placed the order from wherever, it shipped directly from the manufacturer. DC Metro area. Probably just try the links on HA for Merlin's/Excalibur.
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Aug 4, 2014 17:35
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My only problem with Merlin's Magic is that you really gotta use a hell of a lot more than ol' Hirst thinks is necessary. drat good product if you mix it thick though.
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Aug 4, 2014 17:36
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What about casting plastic? I want to get a good set of accessories from the Cavern Accessories mold (#85) and I've had 0 luck with PoP.
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Aug 4, 2014 18:07
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Resin is expensive (compared to plaster) and the chemicals in the resin tend to dry out a mold faster. That being said, you could do it if you realize that your mold will start to crack eventually.
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Aug 4, 2014 18:10
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berzerkmonkey posted:Resin is expensive (compared to plaster) and the chemicals in the resin tend to dry out a mold faster. That being said, you could do it if you realize that your mold will start to crack eventually. I might for something like the fences. On a side note I think HA actually updated their list of plaster and hydrostone suppliers cause I didn't see this one before: http://merlinsmagicplaster.com/ They even sell sample packs of all the different shades for $2: http://merlinsmagicplaster.com/product/merlins-magic-die-stone-plaster-sample/ I'll definitely get some to see if this works well enough for the particularly fragile molds.
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Aug 4, 2014 19:22
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signalnoise posted:Ummm 80 bucks shipped? Deescount for you actually buying the concrete floor mold These arrived today. Thanks again! Crain posted:I might for something like the fences. Relatedly I suspect I'll be placing an order with these guys soon. It took me like 10 years (    ) to get through 20-25 lbs, but I'm nearly there.
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Aug 5, 2014 04:44
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Iris of Ether posted:These arrived today. Thanks again! The trick I've found is to always have molds going when I've got spare time, as well as casting with a definite plan in mind for at least two molds, along with generic "filler plans" for spares. I've found a ratio of 3 to 1 plaster:water seems to work well for consistency and setting times. Generally, 4oz of water/plaster mix is good for a single mold, so I'll cast up 15oz of dry plaster for five molds. Since that's close enough to a pound (17 unit casts for 16 pounds of plaster), it's relatively easy to gauge weight and total process work. Using this, I've got two bridges, half a dozen two/three story building bases, a cast of the dragon inn, and an entire two by two section of my modular board done in a few weeks. I'd love to hear other people's experiences with HA molding and building. If Bruce didn't dislike people posting plans, I'd also show the diagram plans for the double-sized inn I'm working on, as well as any random projects and filler for excess pieces. These things are drat useful, and I've never felt so satisfied with my terrain. Gonna bring it in to my FLGS for some Mordheim when I'm done with more stuff, as their tables tend to be criminally bare during league games because of the one douchebag who plays that ridiculously shooty elf warband.
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Aug 5, 2014 06:36
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Hedningen posted:If Bruce didn't dislike people posting plans, I'd also show the diagram plans for the double-sized inn I'm working on, as well as any random projects and filler for excess pieces.
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Aug 5, 2014 11:53
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Hedningen posted:If Bruce didn't dislike people posting plans, I'd also show the diagram plans for the double-sized inn I'm working on, as well as any random projects and filler for excess pieces. I've never heard this before. Source? Because that seems patently ridiculous.
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Aug 5, 2014 13:10
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Hedningen posted:The trick I've found is to always have molds going when I've got spare time, as well as casting with a definite plan in mind for at least two molds, along with generic "filler plans" for spares. It doesn't help that I took a several year gap in there.  Here are some examples of big projects I've done in the semi-recent past. I did a display board for the Oath thread, which'll be nice whenever I eventually get my display cabinet in a workable location:  I also put together a bunch of modular pieces around the time of the Dwarven Forge modular dungeon Kickstarter:  Finally, I've been casting up a shitload of pieces meant for a mega-layered mountainside inn.  The stuff on the right is some of the materials that I intend to go into it. The stuff on the left is the 'maybe I should do a test project to make sure I can pull off this tutorial reliably, first'. (It's going to have movable gears for the turret stand on top, and I magnetized the door.)
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Aug 5, 2014 15:39
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How do I make metal mesh for my 28 minis?
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Aug 5, 2014 15:48
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Not a viking posted:How do I make metal mesh for my 28 minis? It may be too big, but I've used something like this before: http://www.dickblick.com/products/amaco-wireform-mesh/
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Aug 5, 2014 15:50
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Or replacement door screen.
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Aug 5, 2014 15:57
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Or cut up stovetop spatter guards from the $/£ store.
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Aug 5, 2014 16:02
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Iris of Ether posted:It may be too big, but I've used something like this before: This stuff makes some rad chain link fence.
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Aug 5, 2014 16:59
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That as fence makes me want to build a 28mm Pacific Theater WW2 airfield, and I don't even have anything for that theater.
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Aug 5, 2014 17:08
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I could easily be wrong on the plans - I was just recalling some statements made on the HA message boards, along with a general lack of plans online. It's weird - with how obsessive most of us nerds are, you'd expect a website to have a bunch of plans. So consider it misinformation and crappy research on my part. Might as well start compiling blueprints once I've built a few plans to test things out. Sure, drawings are nice, but I figure actually showing the finished product is nicer. Anything people want to see? I've got about ten molds, roughly five of which are flooring-based and can be modified for buildings. There's some neat stuff, but patience and constant casting are the main bits. The two-story Dragon Inn plans take at least 40 casts of the mold to make, along with some foamcore additions.
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Aug 5, 2014 20:59
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If you are going to cast in plastic-resin make sure you use a mould release agent. Something like this: http://www.mbfg.co.uk/release-wax-agents/macwax.html It will make your sillicone moulds last much longer.
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Aug 5, 2014 21:03
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