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Sagebrush posted:I apparently do have quite an impact on this place, I'll give you that Impact like a Senator filibustering a civil rights bill.
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Aug 5, 2014 19:36
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quote:Yellow 'Night Driving' lenses have been shown to provide no benefit in seeing ability at night. They are even hazardous, because they give the driver a feeling of seeing better, which no one has yet been able to explain. Studies have shown that they actually impair visual performance and retard glare recovery. – "Forensic Aspects of Vision and Highway Safety", Merrill J. Allen, O.D., Ph.D., Et al. 1996 EDIT: Minkee posted:Is it true that gold face shields help you see better at night? VVVVVVVVV - This was the original question. Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Aug 5, 2014 19:41
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I don't think anyone recommended they be used at night, and I certainly wouldn't either! You need all the light you can get in that situation. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10701805
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Aug 5, 2014 19:43
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My friend got a pretty basic shark helmet for his first a little while ago. Unlike every other shark I've seen, it came with a pinlock pre-installed instead of the usual double-glazed anti fog visor thingy. The actual pinlock insert is yellow. I've been wondering if I should encourage him to get a clear one or not, I don't really understand the purpose of a yellow pinlock?
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Aug 5, 2014 19:59
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The Motorcyclist helmet test referenced above is a little long in the tooth, but iirc, when the dust settled, they favored a Z1R and a Pep Boys helmet, both sub-$100 Chinese poo poo boxes. Perspective: The one hidden redeeming quality about this debate is that it assumes helmets are being worn. That speaks volumes about how evolved you are as motorcyclists.
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Aug 5, 2014 20:00
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Slavvy posted:My friend got a pretty basic shark helmet for his first a little while ago. Unlike every other shark I've seen, it came with a pinlock pre-installed instead of the usual double-glazed anti fog visor thingy. The actual pinlock insert is yellow. I've been wondering if I should encourage him to get a clear one or not, I don't really understand the purpose of a yellow pinlock? Yellow increases perceived contrast during daylight conditions, per the NIH link I posted. Are you sure it's yellow though? New Pinlock inserts with the backing still on them have a yellow tinge even though they're fully clear when installed. edit: Oh, it's pre-installed, so that wouldn't be an issue. Weird.
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Aug 5, 2014 20:01
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Yeah I don't know what the deal is. I tried the helmet on and it seemed ok, I could see just fine, so I guess it's ok.
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Aug 5, 2014 20:05
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In black and white photography, you can use a yellow filter to cut out the ultraviolet light that makes things in the distance appear kind of hazy, increasing apparent contrast. VVV Presumably it has the same contrast-enhancing effects but with a yellow tint. I dunno, gun nuts have been wearing yellow glasses forever to try and improve their aim -- there must be something to it. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Aug 5, 2014 20:11
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Sagebrush posted:In black and white photography, you can use a yellow filter to cut out the ultraviolet light that makes things in the distance appear kind of hazy, increasing apparent contrast. So you're saying it works great if you're colorblind?
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Aug 5, 2014 20:27
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Sagebrush posted:In black and white photography, you can use a yellow filter to cut out the ultraviolet light that makes things in the distance appear kind of hazy, increasing apparent contrast. STOP loving SPOUTING OFF poo poo YOU GOOGLED GOD drat IT THIS IS MY FORUM AND YOU HAVEN'T BEEN TAKING PICTURES NEARLY AS LONG AS ME.
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Aug 5, 2014 21:17
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Baller Witness Bro posted:STOP loving SPOUTING OFF poo poo YOU GOOGLED GOD drat IT THIS IS MY FORUM AND YOU HAVEN'T BEEN TAKING PICTURES NEARLY AS LONG AS ME. The funny thing is that his post was exactly the kind of tangentially-related-to-topic aspergic posting I was referencing.
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Aug 5, 2014 21:32
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I think pretty much all visors have UVA/UVB protection so that shouldn't be a concern regardless of tint. I can't imagine that wearing any sort of lense that reduces VLT would help night vision. I definitely know whether or not it helps you take more artful B&W selfies at night isn't real relevant to the conversation.
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Aug 5, 2014 21:55
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Tinted visors erryday so you can stare at booties on the sidewalk at red lights
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Aug 5, 2014 22:16
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hot sauce posted:Tinted visors erryday so you can stare at booties on the sidewalk at red lights Just stare anyways. You're on a motorcycle.
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Aug 5, 2014 22:20
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If you're not on a motorcycle, just leer.
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Aug 5, 2014 22:34
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Two people that I know have mentioned Daft Punk to me in relation to my helmet with its tinted visor. I love it because I don't have to jam sunglasses in my face when I ride, but I like it because nobody knows where I'm looking. I'm like the secret service. Or Beatrix Kiddo, staring into a 300ZX before zooming off through a red light in a bright yellow onesie.
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Aug 5, 2014 22:35
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hot sauce posted:Tinted visors erryday so you can stare at booties on the sidewalk at red lights 
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Aug 5, 2014 22:37
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Kilersquirrel posted:Blocky-headed German family stock here, my cheekbones feel like they're in a vise or the upper part of my temples do with all the Shoei and Arai helmets I've ever tried on. They seem to have forgotten some of us have noses, too. Thus far the Scorpions have fit my humongous square melon the best but I'm That's weird because Shoei and Arai are traditionally supposed to be pretty much at opposite ends of the spectrum (Shoei longer, Arai wider). I think the problem is you've got a giant mutant nut. Did your mother perhaps give birth in a standing position? (You might want to try an AGV because although they're somewhere between the two, their helmets do seem to be somewhat roomier in front of the face than other brands)
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Aug 5, 2014 22:44
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Slavvy posted:My friend got a pretty basic shark helmet for his first a little while ago. Unlike every other shark I've seen, it came with a pinlock pre-installed instead of the usual double-glazed anti fog visor thingy. The actual pinlock insert is yellow. I've been wondering if I should encourage him to get a clear one or not, I don't really understand the purpose of a yellow pinlock? Pull off the yellow protection foil. No need to thank me.
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Aug 5, 2014 22:54
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Marv Hushman posted:The Motorcyclist helmet test referenced above is a little long in the tooth, but iirc, when the dust settled, they favored a Z1R and a Pep Boys helmet, both sub-$100 Chinese poo poo boxes. I think the reality is that most people don't have inexhaustible resources when choosing motorcycle gear. If paying $500 for a helmet means you can't afford an armored jacket, globes, pants, and boots... then buy the drat cheap DOT/SNELL whatever the gently caress so that you can afford to protect the other parts of your body that will be damaged when you crash. I am not proud of my crash scars...
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Aug 5, 2014 23:00
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goddamnedtwisto posted:That's weird because Shoei and Arai are traditionally supposed to be pretty much at opposite ends of the spectrum (Shoei longer, Arai wider). I think the problem is you've got a giant mutant nut. Did your mother perhaps give birth in a standing position? I did actually cork her on the way out, they had to do an emergency(as in "cut her open right-the-gently caress-now, hurry up" emergency) c-section to get me out. So you're probably close to the truth.
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Aug 5, 2014 23:06
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Ok so even after an oil change, my grippy/squeely clutch is still there on cold starts. It goes away once the engine is warm (5 mins of riding in the winter). The bike has now done 3000km since I got it and the problem hasn't improved or worsened. It doesn't impede my riding, doesn't seem dangerous, and is more annoying than anything. I've adjusted the clutch lever for more play (was worried it wasn't fully engaging) but that hasn't stopped the problem. Should I get someone to have a look at the clutch? Or have a peek myself? Or just monitor it and do something if it gets worse? 2012 CBR250 btw.
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Aug 6, 2014 01:32
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goddamnedtwisto posted:That's weird because Shoei and Arai are traditionally supposed to be pretty much at opposite ends of the spectrum (Shoei longer, Arai wider). I think the problem is you've got a giant mutant nut. Did your mother perhaps give birth in a standing position? I second this, I've got a giant noggin and AGV seemed to fit me the best (though my chin just about touches the front part of the helmet).
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Aug 6, 2014 01:33
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Barnsy posted:Ok so even after an oil change, my grippy/squeely clutch is still there on cold starts. It goes away once the engine is warm (5 mins of riding in the winter). The bike has now done 3000km since I got it and the problem hasn't improved or worsened. It doesn't impede my riding, doesn't seem dangerous, and is more annoying than anything. I've adjusted the clutch lever for more play (was worried it wasn't fully engaging) but that hasn't stopped the problem. Should I get someone to have a look at the clutch? Or have a peek myself? Or just monitor it and do something if it gets worse? 2012 CBR250 btw. What weight oil?
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Aug 6, 2014 01:41
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M42 posted:What weight oil? Recommended Honda GN4 10w-30. I live in Sydney btw. Maybe I need to go to a thinner oil?
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Aug 6, 2014 01:55
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No, there's something wrong with the clutch. It's better to solve that problem than to cover it up by changing something else. Stick with the recommended oil.
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Aug 6, 2014 01:59
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Sagebrush posted:No, there's something wrong with the clutch. It's better to solve that problem than to cover it up by changing something else. Stick with the recommended oil. Should I try and have a look at the clutch then? I've got a bike stand and I think I have most of the necessary tools (except maybe a torque wrench, which I should probably get anyway). How difficult it to do? My understanding is I just have to remove the clutch panel and take the clutch plate screws out in a criss-cross pattern. Removing the oil first is also a must?
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Aug 6, 2014 02:21
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Usually there are two places to do adjustments: 1: At the clutch lever 2: Near the clutch actuator near the clutch cover. My KZ1000P had a sticky clutch that went away once I made an adjustment at the clutch cover.
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Aug 6, 2014 02:44
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Crayvex posted:Usually there are two places to do adjustments: 1: At the clutch lever 2: Near the clutch actuator near the clutch cover. My KZ1000P had a sticky clutch that went away once I made an adjustment at the clutch cover. The issue is the clutch works fine from what I can tell, aside from the annoying squeek. Also seems a bit 'grabby' when it squeeks (when letting go of the clutch lever it seems to grip more than normal). Like I said, problem disappears after a good 5 minute ride.
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Aug 6, 2014 02:54
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Barnsy posted:The issue is the clutch works fine from what I can tell, aside from the annoying squeek. Also seems a bit 'grabby' when it squeeks (when letting go of the clutch lever it seems to grip more than normal). Like I said, problem disappears after a good 5 minute ride. check and make sure you have the correct number of fiber to steel rings in the correct order? One of my buddies redid their clutch and stuck two steel rings together on accident, same type of result. They'd make a bunch of noise until they were splashed with a bunch of hot oil.
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Aug 6, 2014 13:55
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So I'm waiting at the lights after splitting to the front and I see the car next to me start creeping forward into my view. I look over and see he's rolling down his window, I'm thinking he's about to call me a wanker or something. "Oi mate, you've got a nail in your tyre".   Motherfucker. It seems to be holding air for now, but what should I do? I'm not sure if they're tubeless or not. My wheels do say "Suitable for tubeless tyres" but that doesn't necessarily mean that I am running tubeless. Can I find out in a way which isn't "Pull it out and if it deflates you know you're tubeless". Can I plug it when a repair kit or am I going to need a new tyre? This one still has plenty to go. 
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Aug 6, 2014 17:47
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Patch or plug. I prefer patches but others like plugs just fine. If you're not running a spoke rim chances are it's tubeless.
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Aug 6, 2014 17:49
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Apologies if this is something that's asked frequently, but how much trouble is maintaining a 70-80's Japanese bike? I appreciate that it's a very vague question, but let's assume I find something that's currently in decent running shape with sub 30,000km on it. I've got some riding experience, but I'm not much good with vehicle mechanics. Some babying and tuning I can certainly deal with, but ultimately I'd really like something reliable. Tough question without specifics, but I'm mostly looking for some general thoughts and cautions.
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Aug 6, 2014 18:06
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Painting with broad strokes, bikes have come a long way since then. You'll always be fiddling with something on a bike of that vintage.
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Aug 6, 2014 18:12
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I've been daily riding an 80's Japanese bike for the last few years/65k miles. Mine is an air cooled Suzuki so it's one of the more bulletproof ones but it still does require tinkering every weekend. All bikes do though which isn't the main issue which is usually catching up on 20 odd years of deferred maintenance. If you don't mind fixing PO fuckery, hunting for obsolete parts and tinkering with stuff always along with having crappy brakes and handling (compared to '90+ year bikes) it's certainly doable.
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Aug 6, 2014 18:37
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I just got back from being overseas for a couple of years (30 months, total), and got my scooter out of storage. I had someone who was supposed to be riding it and such while I was gone, so I didn't storage prep it...but it turns out it wasn't ridden a single time in that period. The battery is as dead as it can possibly be...I'm attempting to charge it now, but I was wondering if there's anything I need to do before I try to crank it to make sure the engine doesn't explode or anything. It's a 2008 Zuma two-stroke, if that makes a difference.
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Aug 6, 2014 18:40
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Replace the battery. Drain the gas. Add new gas / oil mixture. Try to start. If it doesn't start, or if it runs like poo poo, clean the carb. Maybe consider replacing the tires if they're dry rotting / flat spotted (depends on how the bike was stored).
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Aug 6, 2014 18:43
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Safety Dance posted:Replace the battery. Drain the gas. Add new gas / oil mixture. Try to start. If it doesn't start, or if it runs like poo poo, clean the carb. The tires look good. I did a pretty through visual inspection on it, and I plan on checking out the v-belt before I really take it anywhere. Thanks for the advice...I was convinced I was going to have to take the engine apart or something.
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Aug 6, 2014 18:51
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Safety Dance posted:Replace the battery. Drain the gas. Add new gas / oil mixture. Try to start. If it doesn't start, or if it runs like poo poo, clean the carb. On average what is the length of time after storage when a carb should be taken apart and cleaned? We had a long winter last year and I hadn't started my bike for 4.5 months. I thought I was going to have to clean it, but letting it run for 15-20 minutes seemed to do the trick and it's been fine since then. It probably needs a cleaning but I don't really want to waste the time since it seems to be running great for now.
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Aug 6, 2014 18:53
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So I've decided to take a week off next week before I murder everyone in my office. I want to get out of Tampa and find some nice roads. Not sure I want to ride all the way to Deals Gap. Anyone know of some good routes in GA I can check out next week?
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Aug 6, 2014 18:54
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