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BlackLaser posted:So I've decided to take a week off next week before I murder everyone in my office without any planning. I want to get out of Tampa and find some nice roads. Not sure I want to ride all the way to Deals Gap. Anyone know of some good routes in GA I can check out next week? I haven't ridden anywhere in southern GA but I'm sure you could find somewhere. Alternatively if you come up north there's cool stuff in the Chattahoochee National Forest area like: http://www.motorcycleroads.com/75/173/Georgia/Georgias-Dragon---The-Suches-Loop.html Which I've been taking weekends to hit up with my dad in preparation for Deal's Gap at some point. I bet there are some nice coastal routes you can take up to Savannah if you have any interest in checking that place out. Savannah is nice enough for a little bit of get away time, though I have no idea if any of the way up to it is very technical so much as scenic. http://www.motorcycleroads.com/Routes/Georgia_86.html
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Aug 6, 2014 18:58
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hot sauce posted:On average what is the length of time after storage when a carb should be taken apart and cleaned? We had a long winter last year and I hadn't started my bike for 4.5 months. I thought I was going to have to clean it, but letting it run for 15-20 minutes seemed to do the trick and it's been fine since then. It probably needs a cleaning but I don't really want to waste the time since it seems to be running great for now. I don't think there's any real rules. If it runs crappy after getting the lead out for a bit, it might need to be cleaned. If you can drain the float bowls before you put it away (running it with the fuel valve set to off is probably the easiest way if you don't have an automatic valve) it will be less likely to varnish while in storage. I have a friend who stores his 1998 Road King every winter for like 8 months at a time and all he does in the winter is run it until the float bowl is dry and lift it off the floor. Its carb has never been apart and it starts right up every spring. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Aug 6, 2014 |
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Aug 6, 2014 19:00
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hot sauce posted:On average what is the length of time after storage when a carb should be taken apart and cleaned? We had a long winter last year and I hadn't started my bike for 4.5 months. I thought I was going to have to clean it, but letting it run for 15-20 minutes seemed to do the trick and it's been fine since then. It probably needs a cleaning but I don't really want to waste the time since it seems to be running great for now. "It depends". I've had a carb completely gum up after three months, and I've seen carbs be relatively okay after six months. If it runs well, don't mess with it.
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Aug 6, 2014 19:04
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clutchpuck posted:I don't think there's any real rules. If it runs crappy after getting the lead out for a bit, it might need to be cleaned. If you can drain the float bowls before you put it away (running it with the fuel valve set to off is probably the easiest way if you don't have an automatic valve) it will be less likely to varnish while in storage. Most carbs have a float bowl drain screw and a handy tube running to the bottom of the bike so the petrol doesn't go everywhere when you drain it. Whether that screw is accessible is another story. Also, if you have an automatic petcock you can just take the vacuum pipe off and block it with your finger whilst running the bike.
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Aug 6, 2014 19:57
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To follow up on my "how much trouble are older bikes" question, this is what I'm looking at right now: http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/mcy/4605954801.html If this helps you give me any advice, it is much appreciated.
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Aug 6, 2014 19:58
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MCPeePants posted:To follow up on my "how much trouble are older bikes" question, this is what I'm looking at right now: http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/mcy/4605954801.html Do you want a bike you can ride, or do you want a project to work on all the time? 70/80's bikes are great for the latter, kinda bad for the former. Just get a slightly used Bonneville if you've got a raging boner for vintage looking bikes.
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Aug 6, 2014 21:11
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HotCanadianChick posted:Do you want a bike you can ride, or do you want a project to work on all the time? 70/80's bikes are great for the latter, kinda bad for the former. Just get a slightly used Bonneville if you've got a raging boner for vintage looking bikes. That's largely as I've feared. I do in fact have a raging boner for vintage looking bikes, but I'm much more interested in riding than tinkering. Shame, since those old ones are nice and cheap. Any commentary on reliability for newer Royal Enfields? I've read the pre 2010's had some problems and that they've alleged to have worked them out, but very little confirmation.
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Aug 6, 2014 21:25
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hot sauce posted:Tinted visors erryday so you can stare at booties on the sidewalk at red lights It's weird; in the UK we can split but not be allowed to wear tinted visors, or at least the law is foggy on it and the police don't care. I wear transition lenses glasses and even they don't cut it, riding on a sunny day after rainfall is like looking into a nuclear blast, I don't know how anyone gets by with a clear visor only.
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Aug 6, 2014 21:25
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I need to order new tires for this '75 T500 I foolishly bought. I think the sizes I need are 3.25"/19" front and 4.00"/18" rear. I see at bikebandit they have these Dunlop K70s in those sizes. I don't really care if they're crummy tires, because my options seem limited and I don't want to attempt anything cool on this bike anyway, but what I don't know is if I have to buy tubes separately. When you buy tires like this, do they come with tubes? [Edit] And where can I get brake shoes for this thing? Because holy poo poo it has no stopping power. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Aug 6, 2014 |
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Aug 6, 2014 21:59
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MCPeePants posted:That's largely as I've feared. I do in fact have a raging boner for vintage looking bikes, but I'm much more interested in riding than tinkering. Shame, since those old ones are nice and cheap. Seems like a 10ish year old sportster might be up your alley. They look pretty vintage but are dependable and low maintenance. They pretty much just need fluid changes for regular maintenance. You should be able to find a good 883 for not a whole lot of money.
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Aug 6, 2014 22:03
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Super Slash posted:It's weird; in the UK we can split but not be allowed to wear tinted visors, or at least the law is foggy on it and the police don't care. I have an internal sun visor on my lid and I really can't remember how I used to cope with choosing between tinted and clear visors. I have to keep flicking it up and down, like every ten minutes or so. Definitely never going back to a single visor lid.
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Aug 6, 2014 22:16
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Ever since I got new tires I've had a significant speed wobble at 30,50, and 70. its not enough where I can't hold the bike straight but enough that if i let my hands off the bars it will eventually throw the wheel out. Bike is an 09 Ninja 500. I uninstalled/installed the wheels myself but had a shop put the tires on them. Is there something I could've hosed up while mounting, or a chance they were balanced wrong?
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Aug 6, 2014 22:59
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Oglogoth posted:Ever since I got new tires I've had a significant speed wobble at 30,50, and 70. its not enough where I can't hold the bike straight but enough that if i let my hands off the bars it will eventually throw the wheel out. Bike is an 09 Ninja 500. I uninstalled/installed the wheels myself but had a shop put the tires on them. Is there something I could've hosed up while mounting, or a chance they were balanced wrong? Sounds a pretty classic balancing problem but don't forget to check the dumb stuff (nuts properly torqued, tyres on right way round, back wheel tracked properly) too.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:06
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Skreemer posted:check and make sure you have the correct number of fiber to steel rings in the correct order? One of my buddies redid their clutch and stuck two steel rings together on accident, same type of result. They'd make a bunch of noise until they were splashed with a bunch of hot oil. That might actually make sense. I'll get my poo poo ready to have a look at the clutch and let you guys know.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:31
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MCPeePants posted:That's largely as I've feared. I do in fact have a raging boner for vintage looking bikes, but I'm much more interested in riding than tinkering. Shame, since those old ones are nice and cheap. Someone on here (maybe more than one someone?) has/had one and they seemed pretty crap. They are also the slowest vehicle you're ever likely to operate, so there's that too. As suggested, a Bonneville or a sportster look ancient whilst not being ancient. Also worth throwing in is the 90's CB750 and other similar UJM-revival bikes.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:34
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MCPeePants posted:That's largely as I've feared. I do in fact have a raging boner for vintage looking bikes, but I'm much more interested in riding than tinkering. Shame, since those old ones are nice and cheap. You could also get a Ural Solo, if you wanted to pay 2014 money for a 1945 motorcycle.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:47
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What is every bodies feelings on the Icon brand textile jackets? My local shops seem to carry that brand in a lot of different style and I am shopping around for my first motorcycle jacket. Edit: Shopping for gear online, I noticed a lot of the jackets fall under that sports category and a few under the cruisers category. Are the jackets designed based on the type of bike you have due to riding positions or is it just simply the style of jackets? Rythe fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Aug 7, 2014 |
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Aug 7, 2014 00:56
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Rythe posted:What is every bodies feelings on the Icon brand textile jackets? My local shops seem to carry that brand in a lot of different style and I am shopping around for my first motorcycle jacket. Had one, crashed in it, it did it's job well but was not re-wearable.
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Aug 7, 2014 01:04
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MCPeePants posted:Any commentary on reliability for newer Royal Enfields? I've read the pre 2010's had some problems and that they've alleged to have worked them out, but very little confirmation.
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Aug 7, 2014 01:30
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Rythe posted:What is every bodies feelings on the Icon brand textile jackets? My local shops seem to carry that brand in a lot of different style and I am shopping around for my first motorcycle jacket. It's the style, basically. Sporty jackets tend to have armour inserts and the like as standard, a lot of 'cruiser' jackets priorities appearance over safety/practicality/comfort.
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Aug 7, 2014 02:30
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MCPeePants posted:To follow up on my "how much trouble are older bikes" question, this is what I'm looking at right now: http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/mcy/4605954801.html Rime can give you a better perspective on prices in Van but that is about twice as much as you want to spend on that bike, My co-worker just sold a running gs650 for 800$ in Victoria. Prices on Craiglist in vancouver for running bikes are inflated imo, you might want to watch local classifieds, kijiji, autotrader etc, for areas like fraser valley and the island. Try a wanted ad instead, you will get people offering the weirdest, broken poo poo, and sometimes something sweet they haven't bothered to photo and clean etc. Owning an older bike like that can be a lot of fun to tinker and ride, and if you don't spend a lot (6-800$ on a runner) you can sell it off if it starts to cost too much. Keep in mind where you are getting a bike larger than 400cc will cost a lot more from ICBC so, unless you have a hardon for a specific model, buying a "vintage" larger cc bike with just cost you out both ends.
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Aug 7, 2014 03:23
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Slavvy posted:It's the style, basically. Sporty jackets tend to have armour inserts and the like as standard, a lot of 'cruiser' jackets priorities appearance over safety/practicality/comfort. Thank you for that information, that is extremely helpful.
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Aug 7, 2014 03:39
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Is there some sort of Pilot Power famine? I just ordered the last 160 sized one Revzilla had in stock. Other sites are reporting them out of stock, my local dealership is backordered on them. My favorite tire! 
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Aug 7, 2014 17:19
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Just had a look at the cbr250 service manual, turns out looking at the clutch is a bit of a pain. Requires draining the coolant as well, I might have to take this to a shop.
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Aug 7, 2014 22:54
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Are you sure? The service manual for my KTM claims you have to drop the engine to replace the cam chain tensioner because it is obscured by the frame. Which is correct if you don't have a u-joint adapter for your socket set to get around the frame member. Perhaps in Austria these are considered unprofessional:
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Aug 8, 2014 10:34
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My brake lever is squishier when I'm stopped than when I'm moving. Is that normal?
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Aug 8, 2014 15:03
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Mine does that, too -- not sure if it's a Ninja thing or what. It doesn't always happen, but I find sometimes when I'm stopped, the brake lever will come all the way down (as opposed to 3/4 of the way). It goes away and usually doesn't re-occur until the next time I start it up, if at all.
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Aug 8, 2014 16:05
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Lynza posted:Mine does that, too -- not sure if it's a Ninja thing or what. It doesn't always happen, but I find sometimes when I'm stopped, the brake lever will come all the way down (as opposed to 3/4 of the way). It goes away and usually doesn't re-occur until the next time I start it up, if at all. You have air in the lines or you have a failing MC. Not normal.
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Aug 8, 2014 16:58
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M42 posted:My brake lever is squishier when I'm stopped than when I'm moving. Is that normal?
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Aug 8, 2014 17:01
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Lynza posted:the brake lever will come all the way down (as opposed to 3/4 of the way). Yikes. Mine moves the same amount stopped or moving, it's just rigid for less of the lever throw when stopped. Touching the bar is a big no-no. slidebite posted:Are you pushing harder when stopped as well? It's possible you're feeling the brake lines expand ever so slightly. It better not be, I have SS lines now 
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Aug 8, 2014 17:03
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M42 posted:It better not be, I have SS lines now
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Aug 8, 2014 17:06
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Couple months back. I'll give bleeding a try... maybe even rebuild the MC, it's a decade old and the kits are cheap.
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Aug 8, 2014 17:08
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I'm taking it in for valve adjustment/7500mile tuneup stuff today. I'll ask them to take a look while they're in there.
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Aug 8, 2014 17:21
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So, to conclude the GS750E saga, I took it to a shop, and it turned out that I had switched an atmospheric vent hose with the petcock vacuum hose by accident, which solved the idling problem (mostly) and after a carb sync it runs almost perfectly. They recommended that I kreem the inside of the gas tank because theres rust in there, and I should have them rebuild the carbs, which will add up to $1k. So no loving way. I also ordered up a new valve cover gasket because they say I might have a tight valve, which I can handle myself. So, now that I've got it running, I've noticed that the clutch slips under fairly high loads above 5k in 1st and 2nd gear. I think it's because the clutch 'grabs' at an extremely shallow point (like a millimeter off the handle, so I think I need to adjust it tighter. Can I do that with the cable adjustments on the outside, or do I need to access the peep-hole on the side of the bottom end? E: Yep, clutch adjustment saves the day. E2:  Fun as heck in these hilly suburbs.
red19fire fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Aug 8, 2014 |
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Aug 8, 2014 17:53
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red19fire posted:So, to conclude the GS750E saga, I took it to a shop, and it turned out that I had switched an atmospheric vent hose with the petcock vacuum hose by accident, which solved the idling problem (mostly) and after a carb sync it runs almost perfectly. They recommended that I kreem the inside of the gas tank because theres rust in there, and I should have them rebuild the carbs, which will add up to $1k. So no loving way. I also ordered up a new valve cover gasket because they say I might have a tight valve, which I can handle myself. Not tighter, looser. But yeah, you should be able to do that from the bar side.
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Aug 8, 2014 18:40
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ReelBigLizard posted:Are you sure? The service manual for my KTM claims you have to drop the engine to replace the cam chain tensioner because it is obscured by the frame. Which is correct if you don't have a u-joint adapter for your socket set to get around the frame member. Perhaps in Austria these are considered unprofessional: Yeah, the clutch cover is also where the radiator outlet connects (frankly a stupid design, but probably just for cost-saving). Means you can't take the cover off without draining both the oil and the coolant. I might still have a go at it. Draining the coolant is pretty easy. It's more that it's a pretty big job because it requires removing the fairing. I'm more worried at having to replace the crankcase cover gasket, what are the odds I'll need a new one after 4500km? Barnsy fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Aug 9, 2014 |
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Aug 9, 2014 01:21
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So I've been riding for a couple of weeks now, building up my confidence and skills (finally getting the hang of canceling turn signals after completing a turn correctly). Pushing out my distance a bit each ride I go on, and I've got a couple of questions. I like to make a coffee shop a destination, but I'd like to bring my iPad. The bike doesn't have any cargo space so I'm wondering: Would it be better to just throw on a really close-fitting backpack or try to find some storage that actually mounts to the bike? Or maybe I'll just shove the iPad into the slot for the back armor in my jacket.  I'm thinking that the backpack could cause some weirdness at speed, especially if it catches wind. Second question, what are your thoughts for playing music while you ride? I'd have to use earbuds or something inside the helmet, and I'm curious as to whether or not you guys find that it distracts you from the roads?
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Aug 9, 2014 15:10
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SquadronROE posted:So I've been riding for a couple of weeks now, building up my confidence and skills (finally getting the hang of canceling turn signals after completing a turn correctly). Pushing out my distance a bit each ride I go on, and I've got a couple of questions. Get a little backpack, it is fine. If you want to get more pro and aren't nervous about theft, get a full-time tail bag maybe. Some tank bags are probably large enough for an iPad. I play music through a Sena system in my helmet most of the time, but I still hear everything around me that way. For longer trips I'll wear earplug style Shure earbuds that double as earplugs. Around busy city streets I find it a little too isolating most of the time.
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Aug 9, 2014 15:30
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If you have a backpack, use it. It'll be fine. If you'd have to buy one you might want to consider putting that money towards a tail bag that's big enough because you will probably get good use out of it anyhow as time goes on. I don't wear earbuds (or play music for that matter) but plenty do. Just make sure it's not so loud to drown out traffic noise. You need to remain aware of tire screeches and horns. You should also make sure local laws allow it. I understand some places don't with varying degrees of enforcement.
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Aug 9, 2014 15:32
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ShaneB posted:Get a little backpack, it is fine. If you want to get more pro and aren't nervous about theft, get a full-time tail bag maybe. Some tank bags are probably large enough for an iPad. I've already got a decent backpack so I'll just do that for now. Down the road I might get a tank bag. Thanks for the info. What is the Sena system you're talking about? This? http://www.gizmag.com/sena-smh10-bluetooth-intercom-stereo-review/25269/
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Aug 9, 2014 15:42
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