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jimNy
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Aug 6, 2014 17:39
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| # ? Jun 9, 2024 17:16 |
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http://www.suzuki.co.uk/cars/cars/new/jimny/jimny That's a shame, I'd always regarded them as decent little trucks, always wished they came with a diesel though.
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Aug 6, 2014 18:13
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In Japan the Jimny comes with 660cc's of raw power, and yet is somehow the only 4WD vehicle I regularly see with a proper off-road setup. 
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Aug 6, 2014 19:14
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S'all about the gearing - the little 660 turbo has more power and about the same torque as the first Land Rovers. Stump's right, though, they really should sell the diesel one in more countries. They are proper 4x4s though, coil sprung live axles both ends and a hi/lo transfer box. The short wheelbase makes them a little pitchy on the road, but they're a hell of a lot more liveable with than the old SJs. Beginning to get more popular for modifying now they're getting cheaper, too. If you want "unsuitable off-roader", I saw a LWB RAV4 with olive drab paint and a winch bumper yesterday.
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Aug 6, 2014 20:31
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I know taking pot shots at bro trucks is too easy but that proper 4x4 bit reminded me of this time I was walking out to pull in this 80s Toyota truck with a full exocage, massive lift, hop in and see three seperate transfer case sticks and a switxh panel bolted to the dash that read FRT LOCK RR LOCK CTR LOCK FRT WINCH RR WINCH FRT LIGHT RR LIGHT UNDER LIGHT AIR COMPR WELDER AUX 1 AUX 2 and this dude in a lifted spotless f250 long bed super cab on 20s was parking next to it and shouted through my open window that that dude should sell that little piece of poo poo and step up to a 'real truck.'
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Aug 6, 2014 23:04
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The PO not changing the brake fluid on a 13 year old motorcycle probably belongs here Admit it AI, most of you are rolling around in cars with original brake fluid right now aren't you.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:37
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RillAkBea posted:In Japan the Jimny comes with 660cc's of raw power, and yet is somehow the only 4WD vehicle I regularly see with a proper off-road setup. There is a rare version of the Daihatsu rocky feroza which is branded as a Toyota Blizzard and comes with a 2.2 turbo diesel instead of the 1.3/1.6 petrol engines. Instead of a boost gauge it just has a light that comes on when the turbo is on boost  I want one so badly.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:40
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MonkeyNutZ posted:The PO not changing the brake fluid on a 13 year old motorcycle probably belongs here Between the tiny rotor and the knobbies, I don't think brake fluid is your weakest link.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:43
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MonkeyNutZ posted:The PO not changing the brake fluid on a 13 year old motorcycle probably belongs here One of my three is! It's a 2013 And yeah, turns out that even in AZ brake fluid gets gnarly over the years.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:46
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I've driven a car with brake fluid older than I am.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:48
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I did a brake job on my friend's wife's '04 Focus about a month ago that was still running the factory brake fluid. It was very similar to the pictures above. I had to run about a full quart through the system before it truly cleared up and I stopped getting metal flakes coming out.
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Aug 7, 2014 00:07
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InitialDave posted:They are proper 4x4s though, coil sprung live axles both ends and a hi/lo transfer box. The short wheelbase makes them a little pitchy on the road, but they're a hell of a lot more liveable with than the old SJs. Beginning to get more popular for modifying now they're getting cheaper, too. Also don't discount the wobble factor: Google "Jimny Vibration trouble" for more links about it than you can possibly click. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMLVa-TNb9o http://www.jimny-crew.com/Jimny-Issues.html quote:Suzuki, it seems, are aware of the problem, but don't expect much help unless your car is exactly the same as it rolled out of the showroom, and under warranty. Which is a real shame.
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Aug 7, 2014 01:36
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You're gonna have to go a whole lot darker than that to raise any eyebrows around here.
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Aug 7, 2014 01:47
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Admit it AI, most of you are rolling around in cars with original brake fluid right now aren't you. No, they all got fresh fluid when I replaced the rusted-through lines.
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Aug 7, 2014 02:16
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I'll be replacing the fluid in my Protege when I put the new struts on hopefully this week. It's probably the original from 2003. 
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Aug 7, 2014 08:41
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How much fluid is normal for a change anyway? I went through three quarts changing the presumably 14 year old fluid on my Mustang. The old stuff looked black 
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Aug 7, 2014 19:03
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Cartoon posted:Not really. They don't have locking diffs so you can easily get stuck with one wheel spinning.
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Aug 7, 2014 19:34
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thebigcow posted:How much fluid is normal for a change anyway? I went through three quarts changing the presumably 14 year old fluid on my Mustang. The old stuff looked black Assuming you don't ingest air into the line you should be able to flush all four corners with a quart unless you have monster multi-piston calipers. When I'm bleeding after doing component replacement and have air to evacuate I can usually get it out with the same amount, but in really stubborn cases I'll start recycling the fluid after the lines are clear instead of burning through multiple bottles of fluid. I also use a power bleeder which makes the job a lot easier.
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Aug 7, 2014 19:50
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I like to open the bleed screw and press the pistons all the way in before I do a bleed/flush to get all the fluid in the calipers out. Also a good idea when installing new pads instead of forcing all that old fluid back up the lines.
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Aug 7, 2014 20:26
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jamal posted:I like to open the bleed screw and press the pistons all the way in before I do a bleed/flush to get all the fluid in the calipers out. Also a good idea when installing new pads instead of forcing all that old fluid back up the lines. I don't know why the hell I've never thought of this, thank you. Even without that a quart is usually enough, although honestly brake fluid is cheap and I'll pick up a couple pint bottles extra if I think something will be particularly bad. I've started doing my motorcycles every other year or so, mostly because a pint of brake fluid and a half hour is cheap compared to the alternatives. Probably should quit being lazy about the cars, I'm pretty sure our Aerostar has the original brake fluid and coolant in it, from '97. Pretty sure it still has original plugs and wires too, and currently runs like crap. Mechanical horror related, anyone know a not hellish way to do plugs and wires on the parent's '97 Aerostar? I don't expect an answer to that. I hate working on vans so much.
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Aug 7, 2014 22:57
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Mine all get a fluid change pretty soon after purchase for the same reason as Bucephalus'. Lines rot off, I say hell with it, replace em all, sometimes all the calipers and cylinders and rubber hoses, then fill it back up and bleed it.
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Aug 7, 2014 23:06
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I always Crack the bleeder when I push the piston back in for pads. I then bleed a bit out and add fluid. Can't say I've ever done a full flush but my fluid has always looked pretty good coming out.
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Aug 7, 2014 23:25
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I bled and flushed the hydraulic clutch system in the GTO after the master failed, and it was pretty dark and disgusting. The brake system is next and it definitely needs it as well. Getting back to changing sway bar end links in the Chicagoland area:   14+ years of doing this poo poo and it never gets any easier. gently caress these things. 
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Aug 8, 2014 04:29
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I would have stopped working on cars so loving long ago if I hadn't moved away from the Northeast. Three years of that hell was more than anyone should ever have to deal with. I still, 15 odd years later, hate rust so much that I'd laugh if someone were to try to give me a car from the rust belt. Even if it was "rust free".
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Aug 8, 2014 05:31
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The fluid in my bike has never been changed (it's an '01) but the color is still a little lighter than Yuengling. I should probably get to that. 
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Aug 8, 2014 14:25
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Bugdrvr posted:I would have stopped working on cars so loving long ago if I hadn't moved away from the Northeast. Three years of that hell was more than anyone should ever have to deal with. I still, 15 odd years later, hate rust so much that I'd laugh if someone were to try to give me a car from the rust belt. Even if it was "rust free". "Rust free" around here means no visible rust in the body panels. It's just assumed everything else is rusted.
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Aug 8, 2014 14:50
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Friend bought a beater cherokee, knew it needed a motor... Didn't know it needed one this bad!  
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Aug 9, 2014 14:08
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If that's a 4.0 then there's been a disturbance in the force and kastein is probably already on his way
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Aug 9, 2014 14:55
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So it still ran okay though right?
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Aug 9, 2014 16:05
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Power drill hone, oversized piston and rings, and you're good.* *people on other car forums really believe this
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Aug 9, 2014 17:40
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8ender posted:If that's a 4.0 then there's been a disturbance in the force and kastein is probably already on his way But didn't Kastein post that? 
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Aug 9, 2014 17:40
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Geirskogul posted:Power drill hone, oversized piston and rings, and you're good.* on a 4.0 it doesn't even need that much work. Just slip a junkyard piston/rod into the bore and go.
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Aug 9, 2014 17:43
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Time to bore and stroke that bitch out 
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Aug 9, 2014 18:41
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See that mocha? That is oil and coolant. Means either a shattered head from the piston going sideways in the bore or more likely, the rod bashing the poo poo out of the cylinder walls and cracking them into the water jacket. That motor's all done.
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Aug 9, 2014 20:06
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My buddies' wife's cherokee did the same thing. She's not abusive, nor is she neglectful, but one day she calls him up and said it would hardly idle and is making a funny rattling sound. As the car was only a mile or two away, he drove it home anyway. Pulled the head off and found exactly that picture. The later years of those engines suffered all around, it seems. They had head cracking issues, too.
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Aug 9, 2014 20:21
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kastein posted:See that mocha? That is oil and coolant. Means either a shattered head from the piston going sideways in the bore or more likely, the rod bashing the poo poo out of the cylinder walls and cracking them into the water jacket. I refuse to believe a 4.0 can be killed by physical means. You have to draw a warding circle and dispel the evil spirit Nox that lives within the crankshaft.
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Aug 9, 2014 20:29
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kastein posted:See that mocha? That is oil and coolant. Means either a shattered head from the piston going sideways in the bore or more likely, the rod bashing the poo poo out of the cylinder walls and cracking them into the water jacket. Coat the cylinder walls in JB Weld, rehone.
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Aug 9, 2014 20:32
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I dno, I thought to myself maybe I could make more money if I wrenched where snow don't fall, but then I realized rust equals money. So I stay in Wisconsin.
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Aug 9, 2014 20:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I refuse to believe a 4.0 can be killed by physical means. You have to draw a warding circle and dispel the evil spirit Nox that lives within the crankshaft. About 8 pounds of thermite in a cylinder bore will put a couple stress cracks in the cylinder walls where they meet the fire deck  Motor still turned freely though... after cranking it over a few times with a breaker bar scraped all the thermite slag off the walls, that is, revealing minor pitting and a lot of beautiful crosshatching. Clearly more thermite is needed next time.
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Aug 10, 2014 01:15
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| # ? Jun 9, 2024 17:16 |
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Jonny Nox posted:But didn't Kastein post that? gently caress. I blame the SA app for me not being good at reading
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Aug 10, 2014 03:06
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