|
I heard a little while ago that Dave Coleman is pretty involved with this model, and based on what he did on the 2nd gen MS3 handling-wise I'm pretty excited.
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2014 17:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 08:02 |
|
|
From the chassis pictures, it looks like a revised setup from the NC. Double wishbones up front and tubular multilink in the rear with aluminum knuckles. It's kind of hard to mess up the handling when you design a car from the get go to handle well (none of this strut nonsense). I'm genuinely excited for the new Miata.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2014 17:32
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Everyone's probably seen this by now: Well that's not a Z3 hardtop with trunk lip spoiler at all.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2014 17:54
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
Phone posted:A bunch of nerds on mnet are acting as if the NC is the pinnacle of Mazda's design language. I love how with every new generation of enthusiast car the initial reception is "it sucks, look how ugly it is, <manufacturer> lost their way after <older model>, I'll never buy one!!" and then 5-10 years later it turns out that "it's perfect and could never be improved upon, the new model that is just around the corner sure is going to suck!" The cycle repeats itself constantly and yet few people seem to realize.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2014 18:14
|
|
|
1990 base, I am getting rattle on downshift/engine braking. Definitely metallic; sounds like an exhaust rattle but I couldn't reproduce it by banging on the exhaust with a rubber mallet. Maybe it's the cat material broken up inside? The car has all heat shields so I can't bang on the cat directly. Anything else it could be?
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2014 18:56
|
|
|
It could be the heatshields. Half of mine fell off over the years, a Mazda specialist took the rest off when it was in for a service one year.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2014 21:02
|
|
|
The cat on my 92 had broken up and was rattling for a few months, it ended up wearing small enough to turn sideways. Made some nice back pressure on the exhaust on my commute home one day and blew some of the welds on the exhaust manifold.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2014 21:48
|
|
|
Well I will have to get it up on a real lift and check it out better I guess. I was looking to do a full exhaust on it anyway so this might be the time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2014 22:04
|
|
|
It is probably the heat shield. Word of warning if you remove it, there is fiberglass inside and it will rain down all over you. I got mine off with just a strong flat head screwdriver and some pliers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 03:01
|
|
|
Yeah I just finally removed the last pieces of heat shield on mine. Probably the best free mod there is to do.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 17:36
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Everyone's probably seen this by now: All I can see is Mustang when I look at that angled rear end.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 20:16
|
|
|
The trunk kinda reminds me of a Z4 a little
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 21:34
|
|
|
That's gotta be an NC for comparison's sake, and everyone just assumed it was an ND. It's even got the same 4x4 wheelgap! (as an NC1)
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 01:16
|
|
|
There are spy photos out there. It's going to be hilarious when all of the people whining about the ND needing to have 180HP for them to consider it wind up seeing that it only has about 160HP on tap.   
Phone fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Aug 13, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 03:22
|
|
|
It can't possibly have less, even weighing less, can it? Mazda hasn't been in a HP war but I can't imagine the number going down.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 04:35
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:It can't possibly have less, even weighing less, can it? Mazda hasn't been in a HP war but I can't imagine the number going down. I probably posted it somewhere earlier, but whatevs. Mark Booth has been basically batting 1000 for predictions and the engine on the chassis displays has been the 2.0L Skyactiv motor. In the Mazda3, the 2.0L is rated for 155HP; however, due to the nature of the Skyactiv technology package (high compression necessitating 4-2-1 headers to reduce the temperature in the combustion chamber, etc), it's unlikely that there is a bunch of easy HP to tap from some headwork or minor massaging like in the 2.0L MZR in the NC. Current (reasonable) predictions are: 160-165HP (NC has 167HP) 155-158ft-lbs (NC has 140ft-lbs) ~2350lbs (the lightest NC hovers around 2500lbs) So going off of that, it's more area under the curve throughout the entire powerband, slightly less peak torque, and a significant weight loss. The Skyactiv 2.0L is rated at 29/40mpg in the Mazda3 which has a curb of at least 400lbs more than the ND, so things are seeming mighty reasonable for the ND as a fun DD. That's just my take on it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 04:40
|
|
|
It'll be good if I fit in it. It will be unfortunate if it's still child sized. I've gotta give up my NA between the rust/suspension problems and the back pain from being in it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 05:45
|
|
|
Phone posted:That's just my take on it. This sounds totally reasonable, but people are going to be utter dicks about the ND if its released with those HP figures, even if it loses a ton a weight. If my co-workers are any indication the BRZ/FRS is responsible for some of this.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 06:06
|
|
|
Ripped open one of the upper ball joint seals trying to install it, now I gotta wait for another one  This poo poo is taking way too long my car has been out of commission for two weeks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 15:37
|
|
|
 I bought another red miata
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2014 19:25
|
|
|
destructo posted:
You're half way there... well, almost... depending on the years, you're lacking Silver, Yellow, Black and BRG.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2014 19:39
|
|
|
destructo posted:
Seems like you could fit all the Miatas into that garage at once, time for some dollies. I've seen those tail lights and exhausts on some Miatas, but I'm not familiar enough with the bodykit options to tell if it's rare.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2014 21:51
|
|
|
Does $1000 parts and labor seem fair for a timing belt replacement on my NA? The estimate includes cam seals, water pump, drive belt, valve gasket, crank seal, thermostat, and coolant replacement. $520 for labor, $458 for parts. Shop said it takes the better part of a day.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 20:06
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:Does $1000 parts and labor seem fair for a timing belt replacement on my NA? The estimate includes cam seals, water pump, drive belt, valve gasket, crank seal, thermostat, and coolant replacement. $520 for labor, $458 for parts. Shop said it takes the better part of a day. No, that sounds utterly ridiculous. Buy the parts yourself for $200 and learn to DIY. Pocket $800 and gain knowledge. Edit: Hell, looking at this: http://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-TBK179WP2-Mazda-Timing-Water/dp/B007P72GT4 parts would be less than $125...
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 20:12
|
|
|
You'll need to add an OEM crank pulley bolt to that list if you plan on doing the crankshaft seal. Don't cheap out on the seals either.Seat Safety Switch posted:I've seen those tail lights and exhausts on some Miatas, but I'm not familiar enough with the bodykit options to tell if it's rare. destructo fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Aug 18, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 20:59
|
|
|
Why can't you re use the crank bolt?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 21:09
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:Does $1000 parts and labor seem fair for a timing belt replacement on my NA? The estimate includes cam seals, water pump, drive belt, valve gasket, crank seal, thermostat, and coolant replacement. $520 for labor, $458 for parts. Shop said it takes the better part of a day.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 21:28
|
|
|
It took me ~8 hours (with a stop to buy parts and a meal and a trip to replace a broken bolt), It cost me $120 for the idler/tensioner, timing belt, new accessory belts, and a new thermostat (too broke for a waterpump). If you can spend the day doing it it's actually super easy. You'll probably want a friend to help you hold the cams when putting on the new belt. Or do that crazy thing where you cut the belt in half all the way around and slide the new one on infront of it. My belt broke on the highway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 21:31
|
|
|
Someone in a VW Eos tried to race me at the light but all of a sudden lurched left into opposing traffic (no cars were coming). Not sure if it was torque steer or traction control or what.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 22:14
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:Does $1000 parts and labor seem fair for a timing belt replacement on my NA? The estimate includes cam seals, water pump, drive belt, valve gasket, crank seal, thermostat, and coolant replacement. $520 for labor, $458 for parts. Shop said it takes the better part of a day. I had almost that exact same thing done on my son's for around $700. Yes, I could have done it myself but the water pump puked its guts out at a most inopportune time. For that price I had the car back from the shop <6 hours later, same day. And I didn't need to track down parts and wait for them to show up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 22:18
|
|
|
blk posted:Someone in a VW Eos tried to race me at the light but all of a sudden lurched left into opposing traffic (no cars were coming). Not sure if it was torque steer or traction control or what. The driver suddenly realized he's in a VW Eos and wanted to kill himself.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2014 00:06
|
|
|
YAY I got this cart for free and it's awesome. Count the tools and win a prize! (not)  EUREKA  Love the rust colored paint I used for the calipers, like what Ferrari uses, right? Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Aug 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2014 05:38
|
|
|
The temp gauge has been burying itself the past couple of days I drive the Miata. It's been hotter than usual out but still in the low 90s, max. Anything I should look at besides this checklist: http://www.miata.net/garage/cooling_system.html ?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2014 05:13
|
|
|
I'm finally in a position to replace the hole-riddled vinyl top on my NA, I'm thinking I'd like to get a zipperless cloth top with a glass rear window, but I have some questions: For a car that spends most of the time with it's top up, sitting out in Oklahoma weather (hot now, cold later, lots of sun), would cloth or vinyl have a longer lifespan? How much harder are cloth tops to clean? Do I just need to buy some "convertible top cleaner" and a good soft brush? What are the pros and cons of a zipperless versus a zipper rear window?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2014 18:23
|
|
|
I never had a cloth top, but I did put a Robbins no-zipper glass vinyl top on my NA back when I had it. At least in the Northwest, I absolutely positively 100% recommend the no-zip glass. Pros: - Visibility! The glass is so much clearer and never fogs or cracks. You can see so much better despite the glass window being slightly smaller than the acrylic window. - Durability. The glass will outlast the rest of the top, unlike acrylic. - You can buy glass with defroster elements built in for like $50 more and wire it up to your defroster if you've got the pigtail for it. - Ease of use. Don't need to unzip/zip the window to fold the top up and down. Cons: - If you live in a super hot climate, you can't unzip just the rear window while leaving the rest of the top up. In the Northwest this isn't an issue as it's rarely above 90 (and rarely below 40). - It takes a little while for the top to break-in, and until then operation of the no-zip top is a little tight and tricky. As it breaks in it gets easier. The break-in time might be a lot shorter with cloth than with vinyl, though, since it's more pliable. - You'll hate yourself for not switching to a glass window sooner.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2014 18:35
|
|
|
You'll notice that none of my questions were about the glass window option. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2014 19:15
|
|
|
It regularly gets 90+ degrees during Virginia summers and I would gladly trade my zipper window for one I don't have to unzip to to put the top down. I do have working AC though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 00:18
|
|
|
If you must have a glass window an NB top swap is your best bet. That being said I've had both and I'd never go without a two piece again, it's nice to have the option of putting down the rear window when it's a bit hot but you don't want to run the a/c, it's instant bikini top and bikini tops are awesome.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 04:45
|
|
|
I have a zipper top now and I always just end up putting the top all the way down because the hard part is already done. Can anyone weigh in on the vinyl versus cloth debate? Is it correct that cloth is more durable but harder to clean, while vinyl is easy to clean but not going to last as long? I do actually plan to keep this car until it is either totaled or I die of old age.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 05:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 08:02 |
|
|
I haven't had enough experience to speak to much of your direct questions, but i've had a cloth top NC and a vinyl, And my thoughts are as follows: Does it get cold where you are? Will you put the top down while it's cold? If yes - cloth, full stop. Cloth goes down easy even in freezing weather. Vinyl is stiff under 55F. Putting my vinyl top down in <55 weather has resulted in one of the cloth straps snapping off. Still goes down ok, but it doens't fold like it should anymore and looks like it's got a cold-sore or something. I can take a pic if you care enough to see. Is it cold where you are and you will want to put the top down in the cold but also there are trees that you have to park under and birds that poop? get a cloth top and use Scotchguard on your cloth top. Or RaggTopp or whatever. Or get a top cover for it and use it religiously. If it's not cold where you are or you don't think you'd put the top down in the cold, get vinyl. It's super easy to clean and both are going to wear out at some point and if you're keeping the car forever who cares if you have to drop $500 to replace the top every 5 years vs every 7?
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 06:34
|
|