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MasterOSkillio posted:Just bought a 2008 sv650 a couple weeks ago, got it with 24k miles for 2k, one dent on the gas tank but otherwise good condition. It came with 520 conversion (sprockets + chain) Pazzo Levers, Suburban Machinery Type 2 handlebar, Stomp grips, and a Delkevic oil cooler. Platform boots. Is this your first bike ever? Not sure I get the obsession with flat-footing.
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Aug 11, 2014 20:09
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Did you take a motorcycle safety course? If not that's a good place to start. Other than that read twist of the wrist, practice parking lot drills, etc
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Aug 11, 2014 20:09
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MasterOSkillio posted:, I'm shot about 5'7", I'm 5'4" and easily able to flatfoot an SV, and I got some stunted-rear end legs.  Do you mean with both feet?But yeah take the MSF asap. Also read (More) Proficient Motorcycling.
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Aug 11, 2014 20:18
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hot sauce posted:Did you take a motorcycle safety course? If not that's a good place to start. M42 posted:I'm 5'4" and easily able to flatfoot an SV, and I got some stunted-rear end legs. clutchpuck posted:Platform boots. Yes it's my first bike, and I did take the MSF. Actually my instructor said that you should always be flat footed with both feet on the ground when you stop, that way you have more traction, otherwise the bike is too tall for you and you risk falling over at some point. While I'm not on my tippy toes, I'm not completely flat on the ground, and this bike is a fair bit heavier then the 250 I trained on, so I thought it might not be a bad idea. Are you saying it's not really necessary? hot sauce posted:Other than that read twist of the wrist, practice parking lot drills, etc M42 posted:Also read (More) Proficient Motorcycling. I'll look for those thanks!!
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Aug 11, 2014 20:51
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That's sort of silly advice. Flat footing can help beginners who don't have the hang of balancing at a stop, but to say you always need to be able to do it would exclude just about everybody from adventure bikes and dual sports.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:01
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MasterOSkillio posted:you should always be flat footed with both feet on the ground when you stop, that way you have more traction, otherwise the bike is too tall for you and you risk falling over at some point That sounds completely unnecessary, unless they meant just for the first month of motorcycle ownership while you're figuring poo poo out. You'll get used to the weight/tippyness of your bike soon. Most experienced riders I know put the left foot down and right foot on the brake when stopped. If people my size have no problem single-foot-toeing sumos at lights, you're fine.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:02
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clutchpuck posted:That's sort of silly advice. Flat footing can help beginners who don't have the hang of balancing at a stop, but to say you always need to be able to do it would exclude just about everybody from adventure bikes and dual sports. M42 posted:That sounds completely unnecessary, unless they meant just for the first month of motorcycle ownership while you're figuring poo poo out. You'll get used to the weight/tippyness of your bike soon. Most experienced riders I know put the left foot down and right foot on the brake when stopped. Ok, I'll take it slow and not worry about this too much then.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:07
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M42 posted:Also read (More) Proficient Motorcycling. This is actually the book I meant to recommend to read first, not TOTW. Got the titles mixed up.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:08
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MasterOSkillio posted:Just bought a 2008 sv650 a couple weeks ago, got it with 24k miles for 2k, one dent on the gas tank but otherwise good condition. It came with 520 conversion (sprockets + chain) Pazzo Levers, Suburban Machinery Type 2 handlebar, Stomp grips, and a Delkevic oil cooler. Sell those bars ASAP for $110+ and get a set of superbike bars for $15. You won't know what a sv is supposed to feel like with those things.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:32
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ShaneB posted:Sell those bars ASAP for $110+ and get a set of superbike bars for $15. You won't know what a sv is supposed to feel like with those things. Can you explain that a little more? what are those bars doing that is bad/wrong?
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Aug 11, 2014 21:41
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MasterOSkillio posted:Can you explain that a little more? what are those bars doing that is bad/wrong? They are emulating clip on style bars which pitches your weight forward and on to your wrists and hands more. One of the great things about the sv is that its a nice upright standard with great ergonomics. Don't mess with that. I had a set of those and promptly flipped them.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:51
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ShaneB posted:They are emulating clip on style bars which pitches your weight forward and on to your wrists and hands more. One of the great things about the sv is that its a nice upright standard with great ergonomics. Don't mess with that. I had a set of those and promptly flipped them. I wanted to like the suburban machinery bars so bad, but the SV is just so drat comfortable stock I went back.
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Aug 11, 2014 22:15
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MasterOSkillio posted:Just bought a 2008 sv650 a couple weeks ago, got it with 24k miles for 2k, one dent on the gas tank but otherwise good condition. It came with 520 conversion (sprockets + chain) Pazzo Levers, Suburban Machinery Type 2 handlebar, Stomp grips, and a Delkevic oil cooler. There's a dogbone on the rear suspension that can be replaced to lower the rear end, and the front can be lowered as well very easily. I dunno what it does to the suspension geometry though, but it's definitely a thing.
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Aug 12, 2014 00:01
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http://www.spieglerusa.com/handlebar-conversion-kit-4326.htm Anyone have any experience with this? It looks like it puts the bars where they would be on an "n" model, does it mess up the bikes geometry at all?
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Aug 15, 2014 13:46
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Hello SV650 folks, I am in the UK and intending to pick up an SV650 sometime this autumn/winter. I wanted to ask if there is likely to be any issues to do with my weight on the SV650, I am around 150kgs(and yes, currently working on bringing that down) but wanted to make sure I won't have any issues with the bike as a result, or if I will what I will need to upgrade or change to try and mitigate it so I can try and budget that into my costs. Thanks!
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Aug 15, 2014 17:46
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Trauma Tank posted:Hello SV650 folks, I am in the UK and intending to pick up an SV650 sometime this autumn/winter. I wanted to ask if there is likely to be any issues to do with my weight on the SV650, I am around 150kgs(and yes, currently working on bringing that down) but wanted to make sure I won't have any issues with the bike as a result, or if I will what I will need to upgrade or change to try and mitigate it so I can try and budget that into my costs. Thanks! The stock suspension will not be happy with you on it. You could hack a beefier shock on the rear and upgrade the front springs if you were inclined.
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Aug 16, 2014 00:21
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I have rejoined the SV650 collective after shamefully trading my last one for a Yamaha V-Star This time it's a rebuilt 2001 SV650S. The frame is solid, and most of the parts on it are 3 months old even if they didn't need to be replaced. Dude spent a lot of time and effort and money on a mechanic to restore it and then had to move, so I was able to pick it up for 1500. Even got maintenance records from everything that was done. I missed this series of bikes so much.
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Aug 16, 2014 02:37
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ShaneB posted:The stock suspension will not be happy with you on it. You could hack a beefier shock on the rear and upgrade the front springs if you were inclined. Or do that front end swap everyone on SVRider loves so much.
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Aug 16, 2014 02:49
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Do any of you all have any experience with the Healtech GIPro DS-series gear indicator? Found a guy selling a lightly used model for $100 shipped, and I've been thinking that I'd like something like this. It seems extremely simple and just plugs into the diagnostic port. Edit: Also, after doing another track day and getting my suspension mostly set up by an on-site suspension guy, my front end doesn't have enough rebound. The previous owner put in Race Tech gold emulators and .90 springs along with 20wt Bel-Ray fork oil. The suspension guy thought that the previous owner's shop drilled out the damper rods too much and this was the cause of underdamping for that weight. He quoted me $2-300 if I provided fresh damper rods for him to fix it up. Alternatively, I can just try 30 Wt Bel-Ray fork fluid and see if that fixes the problem a little. Can I get away with this sort of hack? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Sep 9, 2014 |
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Sep 9, 2014 05:39
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I am also getting the itch for a slip-on and a fender eliminator. Is there any way to do this cheaply?
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Sep 12, 2014 06:10
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MetaJew posted:I am also getting the itch for a slip-on and a fender eliminator. Is there any way to do this cheaply? Delkevic makes some relatively inexpensive mufflers for the SV. I have the 14" carbon fiber pipe on my bike, and it has a low, quiet tone that lets me sneak into or out of my neighborhood without angering folks. Once the throttle opens, though, it sounds great. The other option is to scour Craigslist for a local bargain.
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Sep 12, 2014 07:17
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I did both cheaply, but I have a first gen. I made the fender eliminator myself using a template I found online, some thin gauge steel and bedliner spray...plus a new license plate bracket, LED license plate bolts and new taillights...and wiring...and a solid state blinker because of the LED license plate lights, even though the taillights are conventional bulbs...but even now that I'm thinking of everything I had to put into it, it was still quite cheap overall. I'm not sure what the DIY options are for second gens but there's a lot of info out there on other forums about it with lots of example pictures. I also put on a Danmoto Titanium GP slip-on with baffle. Doesn't sound as good as some of the others on the market, but I am completely happy with it, especially for what it cost.
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Sep 12, 2014 15:35
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MetaJew posted:Do any of you all have any experience with the Healtech GIPro DS-series gear indicator? Found a guy selling a lightly used model for $100 shipped, and I've been thinking that I'd like something like this. That's not really how it works - you use the fork oil weight to control rebound damping on the emulator setup, as the emulator provides the rebound circuit, not the damping rod. I'd run 25w fork fluid to start with, but also be aware that fork oils aren't consistently weighted so if it gets worse after you do the fork oil, that's probably why: http://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/
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Sep 14, 2014 15:49
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MetaJew posted:Also, after doing another track day and getting my suspension mostly set up by an on-site suspension guy, my front end doesn't have enough rebound. The previous owner put in Race Tech gold emulators and .90 springs along with 20wt Bel-Ray fork oil. The suspension guy thought that the previous owner's shop drilled out the damper rods too much and this was the cause of underdamping for that weight. He quoted me $2-300 if I provided fresh damper rods for him to fix it up. Alternatively, I can just try 30 Wt Bel-Ray fork fluid and see if that fixes the problem a little. Can I get away with this sort of hack? The front suspension is awful and the RaceTech directions tell you to drill too much. It's gonna take some cash to fix if they were overdrilled. Suspension is the weakest point of the SV.. I would buy this: http://www.traxxion.com/SV650Drop-InDamperRodKit.aspx, get new rods and custom springs/fork oil for your weight. Will make a world of difference. (unless you use .9 springs and 20wt oil, in which you should just buy new rods.)
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Sep 14, 2014 21:19
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xaarman posted:The front suspension is awful and the RaceTech directions tell you to drill too much. It's gonna take some cash to fix if they were overdrilled. You want to remove all damping from the damper rods as their design is inherently backwards from what you want on suspension - it's an increasing damping curve, so the harder you hit it, the less they give, when what you want is compliance under a hard hit and more damping under softer hits. The goal with emulators is to completely remove the damping rod from the damping circuit and use the emulator to control damping instead. As such, it's impossible to overdrill the damping rods when you're doing an emulator install unless you remove so much material they break.
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Sep 14, 2014 22:07
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Z3n posted:You want to remove all damping from the damper rods as their design is inherently backwards from what you want on suspension - it's an increasing damping curve, so the harder you hit it, the less they give, when what you want is compliance under a hard hit and more damping under softer hits. The goal with emulators is to completely remove the damping rod from the damping circuit and use the emulator to control damping instead. As such, it's impossible to overdrill the damping rods when you're doing an emulator install unless you remove so much material they break. http://www.svrider.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-40605.html quote:on inside of fork tube right about 1 inch from bottom end there is seal.this seal slides over damping rod making outside of tube between this seal and top ring oil chamber. Literally every single suspension specialist I've dealt with has said the exact same thing. quote:now that you finaly realized there is seal and third chamber maybe you can figure out that if seal passes over compression damping hole that hole becomes rebound hole and 3rd chamber is not sealed any more untill fork comes back up and over that hole.at that point $70 for new damping rods you should collect from race tech(your swiss cheese company). etc etc. If you drilled out the holes too big or added additional ones, your damping rods are ruined. http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72601 quote:Well doing it the first time I did drill the extra 2 holes and bored out the others. This made the bike way to soft on the front end. But I didn't braze the top pin hole. So I'm going to try it again. I bought some used dampening rods. edit2: in fact, just search "damper rod drill" on svrider and see the 8,000 threads on the subject. xaarman fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Sep 14, 2014 |
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Sep 14, 2014 22:30
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Z3n posted:
I guess I left that part out. The PO had about the same weight and build as me, and put in .90 springs and Bel-Ray 20 wt oil. These are the correct weight springs for me according to Race Tech's chart. The Bel-Ray oil is on the heavier side of 20wts according to my reading of this chart: http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html. According to the invoice I have from the PO's shop, this work was all done about 3 years ago, and 6,000 miles. My reading of the SV650 suspension threads, where people discuss installing the emulators, some people claim you can overdrill the damping rod which will lead to poor rebound-- I tend to not believe this after reading through some of Race Tech's suspension bible. However, the suspension guy who helped me set it up at the track was of the opinion that you could absolutely overdrill it. He also said he raced SVs in CMRA, so who knows. He also said I could go one or two steps heavier in the rear shock spring (Ohlins SU606 46PR1C1L) depending on how much road vs. track riding I wanted to do. Anyway, my plan of action at this time is to try moving up to the Bel-Ray 30wt oil and see if that improves things. Apparently no local shops carry this weight oil, or the #8 Pit Bull pin for the front triple stand so I need to order those somewhere. While I'm at it, my brother and I are getting tired of using tiedowns when we trailer bikes to the track, so I'm thinking of also purchasing the Pit Bull TRS.
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Sep 14, 2014 22:38
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Well, you have overdrilled damping rods which you say don't work, and your suspension guy is telling you they don't work, but good luck finding the problem I guess.
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Sep 14, 2014 23:04
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xaarman posted:Well, you have overdrilled damping rods which you say don't work, and your suspension guy is telling you they don't work, but good luck finding the problem I guess. quote:
Reading this document, I don't understand how drilling out the compression orifices could possibly effect rebound damping. And Zen and others seem to agree, unless the assumption is that the resistance of oil flow through the compression orifices is in part increasing the rebound damping.
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Sep 14, 2014 23:46
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Your forks don't have the same length parts as shown in that picture. If you reread what I posted:quote:now that you finaly realized there is seal and third chamber maybe you can figure out that if seal passes over compression damping hole that hole becomes rebound hole and 3rd chamber is not sealed any more untill fork comes back up and over that hole.at that point $70 for new damping rods you should collect from race tech(your swiss cheese company). explained it well enough, because RaceTech includes generic instructions not specific to your SV. Whatever, Zen knows way more than your suspension specialist and the rest of the internet. Don't change anything, you just wanted confirmation that you thought the suspension specialist was wrong. xaarman fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Sep 15, 2014 |
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Sep 15, 2014 01:58
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xaarman posted:Your forks don't have the same length parts as shown in that picture. If you reread what I posted: Sorry guy, I've been on mobile all weekend and didn't see your entire response; I'm not making a personal attack on you. I was just hoping that a simple fork oil change would alleviate my problems, and I could avoid some expense and time trying to find a set of stock tubes and doing whatever else is needed. Like I said, I have no idea if the previous shop really went and added a bunch of extra holes or just widened out the existing compression damping holes.
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Sep 15, 2014 04:55
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I didn't say you could randomly drill holes in your damping rods and be fine - I said you can't overdrill the holes. Yes, if the PO started drilling holes in the damping rods without respect to the amount of suspension travel, you're going to have problems, but that actually causes different problems (you have to compress the forks enough to hit the new damping holes, which is typically at close to full compression). Depending on how the previous install was done, needing thicker oil isn't an indicator of a screwup on drilling the damping rods - it depends on what was done in the process of modifying the damping rods. There are ways to do it so that it can use normal fork oil or there are ways to do it where you need to use thicker oil. Basically, the suspension guy couldn't diagnose if the rods were overdrilled without riding the bike or otherwise feeling out if the damping went to hell at the bottom of the stroke, or taking the forks apart. Lack of rebound at 20w oil alone isn't enough to say they were screwed up. This is especially true if the bike has 6k miles of heavy use on it since the fork oil has been changed. Z3n fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Sep 15, 2014 |
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Sep 15, 2014 07:27
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Hey guys, I'm going to have a look at an SV650 this weekend that the seller has advertised as a K4 but I think might be a K3. Is the K3 the weird one with some special snowflake parts? Also how do you tell the difference between a K3 and a K4? Here's the bike in question: http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201409127357142/
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Sep 18, 2014 19:11
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Just make sure the damping rods are fine, I guess. And yes, the K3 is the snowflake. Fake edit: If it's a gen 2, but the shifter pivot is on the peg, it's a K3. Also (if it's got the original badging) a K3 will spell out SUZUKI on the tank while a K4 will only have a Suzuki "S" logo. So that is indeed a K3. Edit: Just because I'm bored, and to illustrate my point about shifters: 
Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 19:18
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Just make sure the damping rods are fine, I guess. Thanks for the reply, that clears a couple things up for me. How much of a pain/more expensive are the K3s as a result of the snowflakeness? This will be my first bike, and I'd like something inexpensive to repair so that I can both keep the bike for a long time and not face horrendous bills if I do drop it while I'm still new at this. I have been pointed towards the Gen 1 SV's, but the fuel injection and digital speedo are pretty strong draws for me towards the gen 2, and sadly Gen 2 nakeds are really rare in the UK as they stopped selling them here at some point.
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Sep 18, 2014 20:29
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Trauma Tank posted:Thanks for the reply, that clears a couple things up for me. How much of a pain/more expensive are the K3s as a result of the snowflakeness? This will be my first bike, and I'd like something inexpensive to repair so that I can both keep the bike for a long time and not face horrendous bills if I do drop it while I'm still new at this. I have been pointed towards the Gen 1 SV's, but the fuel injection and digital speedo are pretty strong draws for me towards the gen 2, and sadly Gen 2 nakeds are really rare in the UK as they stopped selling them here at some point. K3 is the best. In some ways. I say this because that's what I own. The major things that are unique to 2003 that you might worry about are seats and exhausts. The seat is entirely unique to the year, so if you want to replace it with a Corbin or a Sargent you have to find that year only. The exhaust hanger location is unique to the year so you have to ensure your slip-on is compatible with 2003. Besides that nothing else is really that weird or a pain that I've found yet.
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Sep 18, 2014 20:37
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ShaneB posted:K3 is the best. In some ways. I say this because that's what I own. The major things that are unique to 2003 that you might worry about are seats and exhausts. The seat is entirely unique to the year, so if you want to replace it with a Corbin or a Sargent you have to find that year only. The exhaust hanger location is unique to the year so you have to ensure your slip-on is compatible with 2003. That doesn't sound so bad, thanks! The thing I'm most sad about with it being a K3 is that that was the only year that the awesome orange/bronze was a standard colour and I'm sad that this bike isn't that colour. Still, I feel confident in the bike at least not being a nightmare, parts-wise. Seats would be a one-time purchase if I decide to get one at all and I'm not too concerned about messing with the exhaust unless the stock sound is overly loud at low revs or annoyingly high-pitched at higher ones. Even if I was I imagine a little internet search will tell me if a prospective replacement is compatible or not considering how popular SVs are. I'll have to see how things go at the weekend. I strongly suspect that if they still have the bike and I view it I will walk away owning it.
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Sep 18, 2014 21:18
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Trauma Tank posted:I'm not too concerned about messing with the exhaust unless the stock sound is overly loud at low revs or annoyingly high-pitched at higher ones. Even if I was I imagine a little internet search will tell me if a prospective replacement is compatible or not considering how popular SVs are. You can easily find a million new Yoshimura's for the 03 SV650 anyway, and they are considered one of the best options for an aftermarket slip-on.
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Sep 18, 2014 21:32
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I bought a Healtech gear position indicator off a guy on SVRider for a reasonable price and got it installed today. Installation just involved lifting the tank and removing the seat to route the wire from the dash to the diagnostic port. I haven't had a chance to take it for a ride, but this seems like it will be a nice feature to have. Here's a lovely cell phone video to show it in action (rear wheel up on a stand). You'll notice I hit a false neutral going from 6th to 5th. This probably would not have happened if I had let the clutch out briefly inbetween gears, and I wasn't fumbling with my phone. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbUHPJGvlio
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Sep 24, 2014 06:48
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MetaJew posted:I bought a Healtech gear position indicator off a guy on SVRider for a reasonable price and got it installed today. Installation just involved lifting the tank and removing the seat to route the wire from the dash to the diagnostic port. What pipe is that quiet at idle? Stock? Or do you have a Yosh again? I forget.
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Sep 25, 2014 03:05
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