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I don't know how bad your palsy is, but this might be easier, since you don't have to use force. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Wf3ZmhXuOc
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Aug 12, 2014 02:04
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So... I've been having it rough with 150pt games which is probably due to my low model count and the lack of cheap (points-wise) tricks I have as MO. I've been usually running lists with 3 Order Sergeants, an Indigo sniper, Sepulchre with Spitfire and a Teuton lieutenant and I still get dumped on pretty hard. Speculative fire is stupid  Any hints so I can be less bad, or is it a problem with my list?
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Aug 12, 2014 02:12
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Alright, so I've bit the bullet and Deviant has convinced me to go in on the Infinity starter set. I'm getting the PanO side as well as an additional Bolt model--could someone give me a decent low-value list to start off with so I can play a couple games before really digging into customizing my own?
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Aug 12, 2014 02:30
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Are you going with the basic starter? Don't feel shy about using proxies with 40k models or other stuff so you can explore and decide your faction. A friend of mine used Blood Bowl miniatures as pretty much all armies in starting games until he decided for Combined Army, and now his Speculo Killer makes everyone else cry.
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Aug 12, 2014 03:37
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I'm trying to narrow down which faction to pick up. I'm pretty much down to Nomads and Haqqislam. Nomads appeal because Corregidor has super cheap TAGs, making me think I can put a TAG on the table more often. They've also got a bunch of what appears to be no-nonsense cheap medium infantry options, and a cheap no frills heavy infantry option. They look like they can bring a lot of business to the table. Bakunin is full of weird poo poo and freaktech. Ideally allowing for solving puzzles in unusual ways. I don't care for furries, but somehow a faction of nutbars that sic weaponized furries on people comes off as glorious. I like the look of the Haqqislam models, but I've never understood what the faction is supposed to be about. The OP talks about specialists, but Corregidor seems to have way more specailists options. Haqqislam doesn't seem to have much in the way of TAGS, Remotes, or Heavy Infantry either. They sort of seem like they are supposed to have low tech but in the hands of bio-engineered super soldiers, where crappy gear on good stat lines evens out somehow, but I'm not sure that is right.
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Aug 12, 2014 04:21
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:I don't know how bad your palsy is, but this might be easier, since you don't have to use force. Holy poo poo this is genious! I even just borrowed a soldering iron from my dad to fix an RC helicopter. Is there any downside to this? Like, if the figure falls, could it snap in some othe part that isn't a joint instead?
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Aug 12, 2014 06:09
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I would very much advise against trying to solder Infinity miniatures, especially for someone with palsy. They are way to small, delicate and have way too much fine detail to do this properly. It might be ok for tin soldiers, but on small miniatures where a wrong swipe could hit and melt a miniatures leg off? No good. I'd recommend getting one of these Tamiya Handy Drill's instead - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byLCUT-GY8I I have one and it takes all the work out of drilling holes for pinning. And it's fun to put together 
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Aug 12, 2014 12:05
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Haqqislam is a weird stuff sort of faction. They have lots of doctors rather than paramedics. Most of the Hassassin stuff lacks a cube (gently caress you, Sepsitor!) and a lot of their guns are low-tech and don't care about EM (but aren't as amazing). They have a ton of fairly cheap but excellent LI, MI, and SK models, so they can be pretty swarmy and have no issues hitting 10 models. They've got a couple Regen models, their HI is limited but good, and they get a cheap Holo unit to mess with your enemies' heads, I-Khol, Super Jump, Climbing Plus...they have just about every oddball rule in the game, including their excellent Impersonator. The Qapu Khalki sectorial for them also draw in a ton of mercs, and almost plays like another faction in a lot of ways too.
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Aug 12, 2014 12:44
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PierreTheMime posted:Alright, so I've bit the bullet and Deviant has convinced me to go in on the Infinity starter set. I'm getting the PanO side as well as an additional Bolt model--could someone give me a decent low-value list to start off with so I can play a couple games before really digging into customizing my own? I'm not an expert at PanO, but from what I can tell the three Fusiliers, the Akalis, the Nisses, the Bolt (Let's say it's the combi-rifle and shotgun version...) and the ORC together come out to 148 points, and make a pretty good starting list. It also overlaps pretty well with what you (will) have! If you add the Father-Knight back in and claim that the Bolt is a hacker, I think that comes out to right at 200 points. The points costs for the Icestorm stuff is a little different than what's in the army program, because it's all costed for the new revision, which isn't quite out yet.  PANOCEANIA (Icestorm pricing)────────────────────────────────────────────────── GROUP 1   7  0  0 FUSILIER Combi Rifle / Pistol, Knife. (10)FUSILIER Combi Rifle / Pistol, Knife. (10)FUSILIER Combi Rifle / Pistol, Knife. (10) COMMANDO AKAL Combi Rifle / Pistol, CCW. (22) NISSE MULTI Sniper Rifle / Pistol, Knife. (1.5 | 34) ORC Lieutenant MULTI Rifle / Pistol, Knife. (40) BOLT Combi Rifle + Light Shotgun / Pistol, Knife. (22)1.5 SWC | 148 Points Open with Army 4
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Aug 12, 2014 13:24
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The Gate posted:they can be pretty swarmy and have no issues hitting 10 models
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Aug 12, 2014 13:29
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OB_Juan posted:I'm not an expert at PanO, but from what I can tell the three Fusiliers, the Akalis, the Nisses, the Bolt (Let's say it's the combi-rifle and shotgun version...) and the ORC together come out to 148 points, and make a pretty good starting list. It also overlaps pretty well with what you (will) have! Have the rules for the Father-Knight been spoiled yet? I'm going to take an educated guess and assume I'll be able to take him in MO, but I'll branch out to a Pan-O side list anyway.
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Aug 12, 2014 13:48
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HiveCommander posted:Have the rules for the Father-Knight been spoiled yet? I'm going to take an educated guess and assume I'll be able to take him in MO, but I'll branch out to a Pan-O side list anyway. http://www.lead-rising.com/2014/08/operation-icestorm-rules-roundup.html Best link I've found. Has stats and points costs for all the Icestorm box, and copies of some of the rules.
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Aug 12, 2014 13:59
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Thanks! A few good nuggets of info in here from first glance. There's going to be far too much for me to spend money on over the next month or so.
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Aug 12, 2014 14:25
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Cyclomatic posted:I'm trying to narrow down which faction to pick up. I'm pretty much down to Nomads and Haqqislam. Corregidor has 2 options for TAGs: Iguana and Gecko. The Iguana is a light TAG and the Gecko is really almost a super-heavy infantry instead, so you're pretty close so far. But this doesn't mean you will necessarily want to always include one of these options - infinity works around changing your list often. They have 1 no-frills MI, Wildcats, 1 superb elite MI, Intruders, and 1 no-frills but AD3 MI, Hellcats. Basic light infantry, 1 infiltrating and 1 AD2 light infantry, both of which make excellent specialists (Morans and Tomcats) All this is topped off by the standard REMs and the quite good Nomad special REMs, and a few interesting and zany special characters: 1 good cheap hacker and 2 close combat fighters. Corregidor has 3 links: Alguaciles for basic line infantry, which is nothing to sniff at in a link and in many ways the best bang for your buck; Wildcats for more elite models, more exciting weapon options, good hacker and engineer specialists, better stats, but slower and obviously more expensive; Mobile Brigada are obviously a whole different ball park as a HI link, which I assume few have fielded up till now because of the lack of models. That may change soon, but obviously going big into a conventional HI link is an unusual list. All these links can hit the full 5 though. Corregidor is a good, versatile army with a little bit of tricks and a good lot of force. Perks include good BS, good and varied specialists and wide access to light flamethrowers+combi rifles. Weaknesses include no great hackers (although you retain the excellent Nomad ability to enable hacking via repeaters etc) very little heavy weaponry (eg EXP+AP) and the most really elite model they have is an Intruder, which while great is obviously just MI. Bakunin I have less experience with, but has more tricks, prob a very aggressive army with good warbands, a more aggressive and cheaper HI link, excellent MI. Can get more and better camo infiltrators but no AD. Also very interesting mercenaries. 1 full-on TAG rather than 2 lighter options. Haqqislam I will let someone else have the floor, but I think they rock the loving Kasbah. Both sectorials are awesome, tricky armies with some brutal units. QK can take 2 light TAGs also if that's your thing.
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Aug 12, 2014 17:51
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Pierzak posted:How does one work with the other? Cheap/swarmy armies usually run around at like 15-20 models, 10 is for elites. Or are you talking about a smaller point format? Yeah, I meant more at 200, or even 150.
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Aug 12, 2014 18:32
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Are there any good Infinity podcasts that don't involve noted jackass Romeo Filip?
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Aug 12, 2014 21:21
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JoshTheStampede posted:Are there any good Infinity podcasts that don't involve noted jackass Romeo Filip?
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Aug 12, 2014 22:08
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Both of those are quality for very different reasons. I prefer The Krug, but they're both worth listening to.
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Aug 12, 2014 22:13
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Not a viking posted:Is there any downside to this? Like, if the figure falls, could it snap in some othe part that isn't a joint instead? No. Soldering is generally more delicate. Though that said, Infinity minis are fiddly and they might break even if it's just superglue. However if a joint breaks, it's not too bad to scrape, pry, or cut the solder off and resolder. In general, I'd recommend it for when you've got something intractable to deal with. The Dark Project posted:I would very much advise against trying to solder Infinity miniatures, especially for someone with palsy. They are way to small, delicate and have way too much fine detail to do this properly. It might be ok for tin soldiers, but on small miniatures where a wrong swipe could hit and melt a miniatures leg off? No good. This is a good point, though I think it's a misconception that you would solder in this way, or use an iron at a temperature that can melt your pewter. Electronics, I think, tend to be soldering with hotter irons. There's different type of solder, and, honestly, you should chat with a jeweler to get good advice on this, since they'll be used to doing something similar. In general, if you're doing something delicate, you can put the soldering iron in a cradle, then hold your target in one hand, and your solder along with the other piece in your other hand. You spool out enough solder that it's in a convenient position, then you bring your main piece in under the iron, touch the solder to it so it drops onto the place you want it, then pull away, and push the other piece into the joint before it cools off. There's no risk of 'swiping'. It's just like glue, basically, except it sets quickly and often more firmly. If you're worried about it, you can practice on pewter offcuts or tabs from models you don't care about, or some lead scraps from a stained glass shop or wherever.
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Aug 13, 2014 00:18
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Hoboskins posted:Does anyone have any trick or tips for pinning infinity models? I decided that these flimsy rear end joints need to be pinned but I haven't had to do it on anything so small before. This problem is exacerbated by my mild cerebral palsy which makes such fine manipulation kinda hard. I play Ariadna (SURPRISE) and have a small pin vice, anything that will help this be less What I do is create a starter hole to catch the drill bit so it doesn't slide. I do this with taking an exacto and making a quick poke to put the tip where I want the hole to be drilled, and then spinning the Exacto while applying pressure. This bores out a small hole that I can then put the drill bit in and apply pressure to it so it catches right away without sliding. You can keep poking with the exacto until you nail the spot where you want to drill, as it should catch in the metal and hopefully counteract any unsteadiness. The other option you could try is to not pin, but to mix baking soda into your super glue. This creates a cement from hell.
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Aug 13, 2014 02:09
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would be appreciated. Previous models I got a friend to do but I feel bad making him put so many together.
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Like Cyclomatic, I mark the spot before drilling when I need to be very precise. I'm not sure if the way I do it is actually more difficult, but having different options can't hurt. I cut an X mark into the spot I need to drill using a hobby knife. It doesn't have to be very deep at all, it only needs to be enough so the drill bit will nest itself in the centre of the X. There is another method I have seen which may be useful is 'bone pinning' or 'through pinning', but it won't apply to all parts needing pinning. It involves gluing the parts together as per normal, then drilling a hole from the outside through both parts and pushing a glue-coated rod through this hole. Use flush cutters to trim the rod, file it down to the surface if needed, and use a little putty to clean it up. You can see a bit how it's done from step 5 here.
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Aug 13, 2014 02:45
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Thanks for all the awesome suggestions that baking soda idea seems really handy. Kind of like the greenstuff method I use on bigger models that I don't feel need the pins. Mix a bit of greenstuff with superglue for quick drying/great contact control. Unlike accelerators you don't have the problem of it making the glue brittle after it dries. The little drill seems pretty good 450 rpm is low enough that even with my palsy I should be able to hold the models steady. That or I can put it in a mini vice grip/arm majigger I have.
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Aug 13, 2014 03:55
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I feel your pain Hoboskins, while not as bad as palsy I have benign hand tremors which make painting and modelling rather tough to go at times. My FLGS used to stock rattlecans of this stuff. If you could get someone else to give the join a short spray while holding the parts together it would make the glue cure almost instantly. It was great stuff, but I haven't seen any in the store for quite a while
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Aug 13, 2014 04:01
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Is there basically any point to playing a non-sectorial? I get that you can play a non-sectorial and not auto lose the game, but it seems like in general playing a sectorial is a better idea than not playing one. The Bakunin models seem a bit dated, while Corregidor seems to have a lot of up to date models, but I get the feeling that Tunguska is going to get models before Bakunin gets resculpts. However, if the proper way to look at things is what sectorial you are getting models for, and not what faction, then getting a Corregidor sectorial force and then a QK sectorial force makes more sense than thinking about starting "Nomads" and getting Corregidor and Bakunin.
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Aug 13, 2014 04:10
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Cyclomatic posted:Is there basically any point to playing a non-sectorial? I get that you can play a non-sectorial and not auto lose the game, but it seems like in general playing a sectorial is a better idea than not playing one. Plenty! For one thing, Sectorials are highly specialized in comparison to vanilla factions. This gives them somewhat more predictable strategies and weaknesses that other units in the vanilla faction could otherwise be used to compensate for. Speaking of, some units don't belong to a sectorial (the PanO Cutter immediately comes to mind as an example) so if you take a sectorial list, you need to plan to not have them. Also, while link teams are potentially a large force multiplier, they've got complications of their own (templates and speculative fire tend to wreck them, they concentrate more of your list in a single part of the board which can reduce your overall control of the field and ability to score objectives, etc.). In the end, both list styles have pros and cons. It just comes down to how each individual player wants to do things.
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Aug 13, 2014 04:36
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I just can never get to make my hand driven vice drill to make more than a dent in metal. Does the tip need changing often? I'm tempted to skip pinning and add green stuff to the joint instead.
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Aug 13, 2014 05:07
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Depends it could be dulled but most of the metals in models are surprisingly soft so you should be able to drill through fairly easily. I have found the techniques mentioned above really help. Try scaring or cutting a point to mark where you drill is meant to go through. That or you might not be drilling hard enough. If you have some excess flash or models that you can use for tests see if being more forceful makes a difference.
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Aug 13, 2014 06:57
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Not a viking posted:I just can never get to make my hand driven vice drill to make more than a dent in metal. Does the tip need changing often? I'm tempted to skip pinning and add green stuff to the joint instead. If you press too hard you can blunt the tip of the bit; too light and you'll just spin in place, though this is less likely. Like Hoboskins said, maybe practice on a spare bit of metal, it'll become second nature in no time. I hold the bit against the spot to be drilled (at the centre of where I've cut an X with a hobby knife) and then just add a touch more pressure, which seems to do the trick. The tool should be doing most of the work for you. I also use cutting lube to extend the life of the bit—no idea if it matters a whole lot with these in a pin vise, but it certainly can't hurt. Depending on the size of the bit, you can either sharpen it or just toss it and use a new one. That is assuming the bit is blunt.
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Aug 13, 2014 13:13
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I found the drill bits that came with my P3 drill were rubbish and wouldn't go anywhere. I picked up some titanium tipped bits off ebay from the UK which are like going through butter now. edit~ here they are, might be overkill I dunno. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/proops-2-x-titanium-coated-h-s-s-DRILL-BIT-metric-0-85-mm-jewellery-modelling-/290774924414 Tentacle Party fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Aug 13, 2014 |
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Aug 13, 2014 14:48
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Just a heads-up, MayaNet Version 1.2 available in The App Store
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Aug 14, 2014 15:13
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Sweet, just as I expanded into NCA and was complaining about the lack of Bolt profiles.
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Aug 14, 2014 15:44
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Indolent Bastard posted:Just a heads-up, MayaNet Version 1.2 available in The App Store Is that just for tablets? Just looked on my iPhone and I don't see it.
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Aug 14, 2014 16:03
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Acceptableloss posted:Is that just for tablets? Just looked on my iPhone and I don't see it. Sorry, it is tablet only. For phones you need to use Aleph Tool box (I think).
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Aug 14, 2014 16:09
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Indolent Bastard posted:Sorry, it is tablet only. For phones you need to use Aleph Tool box (I think).
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Aug 14, 2014 16:25
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Pierzak posted:That one's for Android, there's another builder for iphones. Forgot the name though. I've forgotten as well... One exists though.
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Aug 14, 2014 16:57
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Indolent Bastard posted:Just a heads-up, MayaNet Version 1.2 available in The App Store Oh! I told him Ajax wasn't impetuous and he fixed it!  And yeah, the other builder is ALEPH Toolbox.
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Aug 14, 2014 17:19
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Ops: Infinity is the iPhone one.
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Aug 14, 2014 18:04
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The Dark Project posted:I would very much advise against trying to solder Infinity miniatures, especially for someone with palsy. They are way to small, delicate and have way too much fine detail to do this properly. It might be ok for tin soldiers, but on small miniatures where a wrong swipe could hit and melt a miniatures leg off? No good. I got this drill and it owns bones. I used to painstakingly drill with a pin-vise which could take forever and I absolutely religiously pinned every bit. Every thing. With this little guy the work is so much more easier. It gives me the peace of mind that if my miniatures fall or get pressed against something they're gonna stay assembled. I also use various epoxy putties to fix things in place and hide the seams. Just played a good game of 300pt YAMS. I narrowly won in the end.  ALEPH────────────────────────────────────────────────── GROUP 1 8 0 0 MYRMIDON Officer Lieutenant Boarding Shotgun, Nanopulser, Zero-V Smoke Grenades / Pistol, AP CCW. (0.5 | 32) MYRMIDON Combi Rifle, Nanopulser, Smoke Grenades / Pistol, EXP CCW. (27)MYRMIDON Combi Rifle, Nanopulser, Smoke Grenades / Pistol, EXP CCW. (27)MYRMIDON Chain Rifle, Nanopulser, Smoke Grenades / Pistol, AP CCW. (16)MYRMIDON Chain Rifle, Nanopulser, Smoke Grenades / Pistol, AP CCW. (16) EKDROMOS HMG, Nanopulser / Pistol, DA CCW. (1.5 | 40)EKDROMOS Chain Rifle, Nanopulser / Pistol, DA CCW. (22) NETROD Electric Pulse. (4)GROUP 2 4 1 1NETROD Electric Pulse. (4) AGÊMA Marksman Missile Launcher / Pistol, Knife. (1.5 | 38) PENTHESILEA Combi Rifle, Contender, Nanopulser / Pistol, Monofilament CCW. (46) THORAKITES Submachine gun, Light Rocket Launcher / Pistol, Knife. (1 | 25) WARCOR Flash Pulse / Stun Pistol, Knife. (3)4.5 SWC | 300 Points Open with Army 4 What I did was push the Myrmidons through the middle under smoke cover and take positions in the center. They got shredded by waves of enemy onslaught but their goal was to hold the center and bleed out the enemy. I kept the Ekdromoi in reserve pretty much the whole game. In the end I won by laying down a bunch of smoke hiding my approach to the enemy DZ and completed all 4 objectives with Penthesilea. The Ekdromoi deployed by AD combat dropping right on top of the enemy mass behind his lines and got promptly dispatched by chain rifle fire. Could have gone better but it was pretty good. I had to roll my final WIP check as the place was shutting off the lights. I think next time I might go with more Myrmidons and Ekdromoi instead of Penthesilea. Is 300 pt too low to throw a TAG in? It flowed pretty well this time. There's a steep learning curve before things go with the rhythm that I think the gameplay is intended for. A question: does a unit being cured from the unconscious state generate an ARO?
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Aug 14, 2014 21:01
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I finally remembered, Ops Infinity is the iOS phone app. https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ops-infinity-edition/id640441223?mt=8 Not as good as MayaNet, but you take what you can get.
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Aug 14, 2014 21:20
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Aug 14, 2014 21:35
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