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angryrobots posted:I believe ARD can provide you a custom ecu. Someone didn't follow my C70 build thread. I cannot recommend ARD, especially for an ME7 manual swap. The problem is that when they do something right they're great, but if they do something wrong they gently caress you in the rear end and say "god bless you" while doing it. *Didn't mean to sound egotistical, there's no harm in not following my build thread, I don't follow everyone's builds either. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Aug 8, 2014 |
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Aug 8, 2014 07:01
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I'm lusting for this so hard: http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1988-Volvo-740-Wagon-W0QQAdIdZ1009813403 I'm out of room/money but it would be hilarious to have 2 identical black M46 740tis' in both body styles. 
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Aug 8, 2014 19:24
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LloydDobler posted:Someone didn't follow my C70 build thread.
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Aug 8, 2014 19:50
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LloydDobler posted:Someone didn't follow my C70 build thread. I cannot recommend ARD, especially for an ME7 manual swap. Yeah, from what I've gathered their ME4.3/4.4 stuff works well, at least for the lower-level tunes.
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Aug 9, 2014 02:10
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No-start: fuel injection relay. Compression: 110-140-160-170. Cylinder 1: possibly Rough idle and lack of power: solved. Estimated lifespan without repair: probably forever. Next question: what should I have the machine shop do to a junkyard head to make it faster before I put it on my engine 
atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Aug 12, 2014 |
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Aug 11, 2014 04:29
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Volvo thread, if I wanted to replace THIS: what term do I google for so I can buy a replacement? Everything I'm getting is the full bumper, which I'm hoping isn't the case  E: it's a 2007 S40, if that's any help. Frinkahedron fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Aug 11, 2014 |
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Aug 11, 2014 04:46
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Dunno about Volvos, but other brands would call that an air dam, lower spoiler, air deflector, splitter or bumper cover trim. "Air guide:" http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=34797 Although maybe air guide is the engine under cover on the 850: http://volvo850wagon.wordpress.com/2013/09/30/86-air-guide-replacement/
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Aug 11, 2014 05:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Dunno about Volvos, but other brands would call that an air dam, lower spoiler, air deflector, splitter or bumper cover trim. Air guide is the plastic piece underneath that covers the radiator. That in the picture is a lower piece of the trim off the bumper. Depending on how bad things are busted, you might be replacing the whole bumper..
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Aug 11, 2014 13:34
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That reminds me; I should probably re-attach my air-guide. It's only been off for... ever.
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Aug 11, 2014 19:13
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atomicthumbs posted:No-start: fuel injection relay. I bet it's a headgasket problem or a poorly sealing valve. If a valve dropped, the engine would sound horrendous while running and you would have no compression at all in that cylinder. As for a replacement head (if you need it) just make sure that it's not warped and have the valves lapped. If you're not installing a bigger turbo or a freer-flowing exhaust there's no point in having it ported or modified for larger valves.
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Aug 11, 2014 20:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Dunno about Volvos, but other brands would call that an air dam, lower spoiler, air deflector, splitter or bumper cover trim. It was good enough to get me to this image:  but the stupid parts website (and ebay) don't list what #25 is  e: just like asking the rubber duck, apparently it's called a spoiler, thanks! e2: vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv literally found the exact same website just now 
Frinkahedron fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Aug 12, 2014 |
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Aug 12, 2014 01:02
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On the S40 it appears to be SPOILER/30655878. http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Spoiler/1138307/30655878.html e: f, b.
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Aug 12, 2014 01:06
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zundfolge posted:As for a replacement head (if you need it) just make sure that it's not warped and have the valves lapped. If you're not installing a bigger turbo or a freer-flowing exhaust there's no point in having it ported or modified for larger valves. I'm not planning on installing anything that doesn't look stock, let's just put it that way. (A cat-back exhaust might be in the works, a bigger turbo from another Volvo is possible but unlikely. Fancy head work costs too much anyway.) and I typed "dropped" when I meant "burnt". whoops
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Aug 12, 2014 08:03
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Hey guys, how much could I expect to pay for a running 240 or 240 turbo in 5 speed?
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Aug 15, 2014 03:49
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Eaterofpoptarts posted:Hey guys, how much could I expect to pay for a running 240 or 240 turbo in 5 speed? Anywhere between free and $texas depending on where you live and how nice the car is. 
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Aug 15, 2014 04:40
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240s are weird, they're all over the map price-wise but a flawless 24k original mile 240 turbo failed to pull $10k here in Denver last year so there's definitely an upper limit. Most economical route is find the post-88 wiring harness 240 body you want that's rust free and swap in a 940 turbo motor. Somewhere between $500 and $5000 realistically.
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Aug 15, 2014 05:27
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I owned three 240s in my formative years and loved them more than any other car I ever owned or drove (c.f. username.) My last 240 was a 1993 on Virgos and in minty shape, but life changed and I had to sell it in 2011. Anyway, when I was at the junkyard years ago I found a stack of Greenbooks in a 1983 245 that the guy at the counter didn't care to charge me for. They're from earlier in the model run, there's a 1983 pre-delivery inspection book in there. I know there's a B21T manual, heater, AW55, emissions stuff, electrical, differential, and maybe some other manuals in there. Does anyone have a use for these? If so, they're yours for a flat-rate box price and whatever you feel like kicking in (or nothing, I don't care that much) but I just hate to throw them away. I'm moving and need to get rid of stuff like this. pants in my pants fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Aug 15, 2014 |
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Aug 15, 2014 07:42
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I feel like it's time to replace my '03 Jetta wagon (purchased in '02) and it's tough to find something I like. The current Jetta wagon looks ugly to me. My prior car was a '93 Impreza LS wagon. I've been looking at the V60 but I'm unfamiliar with Volvo and it seems expensive for what it is. What's the owner experience like for modern Volvos? I'm single so I don't have to carry a full load of passengers and cargo often, and I don't drive much, but I'd like a nice compact wagon with current technology.
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Aug 15, 2014 19:19
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two forty posted:Greenbooks They're all on PDF now so there's really no need for print media but I bet someone on turbobricks would want them for the price of shipping.
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Aug 15, 2014 19:22
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LloydDobler posted:
Is the swap a difficult one to do, how much do the motors go for, any issues I should look for when examining a car (I live in ATL so I don't think rust is going to be an issue.)?
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Aug 16, 2014 02:45
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First things first. Do you want a 2 door or a 4 door, or wagon? Will you be doing the work yourself? What is your budget?
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Aug 16, 2014 02:48
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mafoose posted:First things first. Apologies. I suppose I Want a 4 door since I've heard they have stronger bodies but it wouldn't kill me if I found a 2 door for a better price. Obviously I want a manual, yes I will be doing the work myself, and I have around 2500 saved up currently.
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Aug 16, 2014 03:11
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Eaterofpoptarts posted:I suppose I Want a 4 door since I've heard they have stronger bodies  
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Aug 16, 2014 03:49
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$2500 will get you a mostly sorted 244 turbo project, or a nice stock car. Stick with a 90+ car as the bottom end is better and so is the wiring. 93 being the holy grail as the interior is nice, the AC works great, and it has oil squirters in the engine for piston cooling. A +t is a very common thing in volvos, slap all the turbo bits on it, weld an oil return fitting on the oil pan, swap to turbo computers and bam, quick little car. 3 things; if staying auto, you'll want to swap to a turbo transmission (aw71), if stick, the 5 speed (m47) is notoriously weak. The manual turbo cars used a 4 speed +OD (m46) that is stronger, but not by much more. They are on borrowed time above 250ft-lbs.
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Aug 16, 2014 05:59
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940 status: it wasn't the fuel pump relay, so I'm out $25. Drove it down the driveway to try to jumpstart one of the four dead Swedish cars at my dad's place, and it refused to go back up. It was moderately warm, and I was flooring it in first gear, but it was only making it halfway up the steep slope and felt like it was only firing once every three or four revs... except the backfires. It idled fine, and while I went to get the tow strap my dad said "let me try" and drove it out somehow (I guess it worked fine after it managed to warm up?) It wouldn't start again this morning; it'd run for a little while and then die. I imagine it's my FPR or something more insidious. Either way, my cat's probably destroyed already and it's going to a mechanic who knows what they're doing and can exorcise it. As for that other Swedish car... it's been sinking into the Earth under trees for the last ten years, but me and my dad used my 240 to pull it out of its wheel-holes and partway into a parking spot, where I washed it and rediscovered that the sunroof is very far from watertight.  It doesn't run yet (I fear a wiring harness issue, as it's not getting any fuel despite having some in the tank), but after charging it and replacing some removed fuses and whatnot...  
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Aug 17, 2014 05:04
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My sister's 245 is having awful tranny issues and I don't know what to do  it shifts aight when cold, but when warm, it likes to stay in first gear unless you ease completely off the gas, in which it clunks pretty harshly into the next gear. Also, whenever the car hits a bump, it seems to downshift/engine brake very briefly.My sister was having tranny issues so she added a quart of transmission fluid instead of checking the level first, effectively overfilling it a quart for 400 miles until I drained it back to its normal level. Any ideas? I'm not a tranny expert by any means 
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Aug 17, 2014 08:07
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Without knowing what box she's got, it sounds like how a BW35 behaves when the front pump is shot. As the fluid warms up, the viscosity change prevents the worn pump from delivering enough fluid.
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Aug 17, 2014 18:59
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How's the kickdown cable looking? Is it installed and properly adjusted? I don't recall offhand how it should be set, if you can't find instructions via googling I'll check my Bentley manual and paraphrase it for you. Edit, didnt see its temperature related so it's probably not the cable.
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Aug 17, 2014 19:01
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I adjusted the kickdown cable to factory spec (it was pretty off) and installed an overdrive solenoid bypass kit that I had lying around. The kickdown cable definitely feels better now but the issue persists when the car is warm. The weird transmission slipping/engine braking issue happens in any gear, by the way, and seems to happen more frequently when I barely have my foot on the pedal (although it happens a lot even barring this)
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Aug 17, 2014 20:26
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 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viWHWY47eUc now to figure out:
atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 01:24
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Did you replace the relay's fuse? Not running via the relay but running while jumped to me sounds like corrosion is weakening the voltage required to actuate the relay. In fact, replace all the fuses, as corroded old fuses is like the #1 reason these cars run poorly.
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Aug 18, 2014 01:54
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I'm looking at a used 98 Volvo v90, 150k miles later today. In addition to the usual stuff is there anything I should be checking for?
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Aug 21, 2014 21:47
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Cage posted:I'm looking at a used 98 Volvo v90, 150k miles later today. In addition to the usual stuff is there anything I should be checking for? well for starters, you might want to search for a V70...there were no V90s made to my knowledge. Edit: I'll be damned.. I've never seen one ever, though they only make S90s. Never even heard them mentioned until today. It wasn't even on the first two car sites I looked on.. Edit2: Well after a quick look, the major thing I'd be concerned about is that I've only ever heard bad things about the early I6/V6 engines, so personally I wouldn't be inclined to even deal with it unless a good Volvo mechanic cleared it first. But honestly there are better choices out there with the V70s unless you're absolutely married to RWD. Oxphocker fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Aug 22, 2014 |
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Aug 22, 2014 00:47
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Maybe you should search yourself before you go correcting someone!
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Aug 22, 2014 00:51
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All I can say is that I'd love a v90 with either a T-5 or m90 transmission, and eventually a T5 Volvo motor.
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Aug 22, 2014 02:52
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V90s and 960s are good if you treat 'em right. Be meticulous about the timing belt, because otherwise you'll be facing an engine full of bent valves at best and an engine full of bent valves and piston fragments and got knows what else at worst. Earlier 960s (until 1994) basically have the interior of a 760, and despite the more ~luxurious~ appearance of the later models, I prefer the earlier ones. Make sure the car's had the timing belt done within memory, or prepare to do it/have it done soon after you buy it if not. Make sure it hasn't gone all low-rider in the rear (that means the Nivomat self-leveling shocks have died, and they're expensive to replace whether you get more Nivomats or coilovers to replace them). Once all that's done and you have a solid V90/S90/960,
atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Aug 22, 2014 |
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Aug 22, 2014 03:05
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Please tell me where to find these mythical 960/90 mod parts that you speak of (hint: they don't exist)
TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Aug 22, 2014 |
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Aug 22, 2014 04:45
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I could've sworn I saw 960 sway bars go by when I was looking at parts for my dad's 960 on IPD  there's still some other stuff you can do (apparently a 740 front sway bar bolts up, so a 940 one probably does too), but drat.
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Aug 22, 2014 05:07
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The 960 aftermarket is definitely limited but there's no need to be a dick about it. atomicthumbs is right about the headers but there aren't any upgraded swaybars, shocks, struts, etc. available for the 960/V90. It's one of the worst Volvos to buy if you have modification on the brain (unless you're a wizard like the poi). That being said, they drive really nicely when they're sorted out and they're stupid easy to work on. Just make sure the cooling system is up to snuff and run premium fuel; the I6 doesn't suffer detonation very well.
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Aug 22, 2014 05:15
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zundfolge posted:The 960 aftermarket is definitely limited but there's no need to be a dick about it. 
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Aug 22, 2014 05:28
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