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Moey posted:Are you running a credit card machine over this internet connection as well? Yep, got a POS, no pun intended. Now to just make that new router for 
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Aug 11, 2014 23:08
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I'd like to get wireless access to a cabin about 80-100 feet from the house. There's almost line of sight between the two but there's some leaves and a wooden fence between them. It also rains a bit. Could I use something like two Ubiquity NanoBridge M9's for the point-to-point connection and then APs in each location for devices to connect to? Or is anything other than totally clear line of sight going to be hopeless? I'd be happy if it's fast enough to stream Netflix.
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Aug 16, 2014 03:02
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Ninja Rope posted:I'd like to get wireless access to a cabin about 80-100 feet from the house. There's almost line of sight between the two but there's some leaves and a wooden fence between them. It also rains a bit. Could I use something like two Ubiquity NanoBridge M9's for the point-to-point connection and then APs in each location for devices to connect to? Or is anything other than totally clear line of sight going to be hopeless? I'd be happy if it's fast enough to stream Netflix. While water is hard for wifi to get through, you're talking about a pretty small distance for a lot of those ubiquiti products, so I'd imagine that the results will be decent if you can get them in spots with some obstructions but not too many. Since it's only 100 feet you could also run an ethernet cable, but I'm guessing you've already looked into that. If you wanted to do that you'd want some outdoor rated cat6 most likely. After looking at some products, you're probably even overspeccing for the NanoBridge M9, I'd imagine the NanoStation loco would be fine. If you check the first question on the M2's product page on amazon someone's using two with obstructions and 100% signal: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-LOCOM2-US-NanoStation-loco-M2/dp/B004EGI3CI/ref=pd_sim_pc_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=19CR4DP9TXYKSKDBJD7T quote:Q: I want to use 2 of these to make point to point bridge between two houses. The distance = 180 ft but there are bunch of trees. Would it work ?
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Aug 16, 2014 03:14
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Interesting. I was looking at the NanoBridge M9's because I figured 900mhz would give a stronger signal through obstructions, but the loco is much smaller and cheaper. I'll try and figure out how close to exact line of sight I need, maybe the loco is the better option. Thanks.
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Aug 16, 2014 04:56
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If I used a power line adapter which had 3 RJ45 sockets on it and connected a Pc and a NAS to that adapter, would it be clever enough to route traffic between the Pc and NAS locally through that plug, or would it be less intelligent and send it round the house and back ?
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Aug 16, 2014 09:49
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Baconroll posted:If I used a power line adapter which had 3 RJ45 sockets on it and connected a Pc and a NAS to that adapter, would it be clever enough to route traffic between the Pc and NAS locally through that plug, or would it be less intelligent and send it round the house and back ? I haven't tried one myself to be sure but from what I can find online they have a switch chip inside, so the three ports should learn what devices are hooked to them and send the frames to the right place. This means that you'll get better speeds between devices on those plugs than the remote devices (it won't go around the house).
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Aug 16, 2014 13:32
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Ninja Rope posted:I'd like to get wireless access to a cabin about 80-100 feet from the house. There's almost line of sight between the two but there's some leaves and a wooden fence between them. It also rains a bit. Could I use something like two Ubiquity NanoBridge M9's for the point-to-point connection and then APs in each location for devices to connect to? Or is anything other than totally clear line of sight going to be hopeless? I'd be happy if it's fast enough to stream Netflix. I'm using two Nanostation Loco M5s to set up a link from my house to the house across the street. My side is inside the garage, mostly aimed at their house, but shooting through the garage door itself, at least two trees, across the street, and through a window on their side (theirs is mounted to the glass with a suction cup). Full signal on the first try. The internal speed tests in the Nanostation interface hit within a few Mbps of the rated maximum 150Mbps (counting both directions simultaneously). IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Aug 16, 2014 |
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Aug 16, 2014 15:23
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I've been having issues with my internet lately and getting some confusing information. The cable company had maintenance issues last week with the net being down 100% for about 5 days. Since they "fixed it" everything seems slow and I don't believe I'm getting the 50Mbps I'm paying for. Here's where the confusion lies: three different speed tests give 3 wildly different results. Speedtest.net says 21Mbps down and 3.22 up. bandwidthplace.com says 4.96Mbps down and 2.95 Mbps up. The somewhat questionable test hosted by my ISP says 47.62 down and 3.17 up. They say there isn't an issue and will only trust their test. I have a Motorola SB6121 and Netgear WNDR4500 N900 router. I performed the test with only my main PC connected by wire to the router, all other devices wired and wireless off or unplugged and always chose a server in Dallas. I always used speedtest.net in the past to check things and previously got speeds of 51Mbps or so. I don't know how to prove to them I'm having an issue or if the issue is truly on my end. 
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Aug 17, 2014 05:18
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Tachonium posted:I've been having issues with my internet lately and getting some confusing information. The cable company had maintenance issues last week with the net being down 100% for about 5 days. Since they "fixed it" everything seems slow and I don't believe I'm getting the 50Mbps I'm paying for. Is your ISP's support telling you to do anything specific?
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Aug 17, 2014 05:41
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beepsandboops posted:I'd try removing the router from the equation altogether, and just plug your PC into the cable modem. I'd also try repeating some tests over time and seeing if the results are consistent depending on the time of day or day of the week. I've done the tests all sorts of random times during the day or night. The results are pretty much the same. Just tried directly through the modem and got almost 30 from speedtest.net as opposed to 20. I'll test in this way throughout the day tomorrow. The only thing the ISP has suggested is the usual rebooting of everything or replacing the modem. I'm just skeptical since I've never had issues until a week after major downtime. I'm willing to buy a new modem or router but only if I'm reasonably sure it will help.
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Aug 17, 2014 05:49
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I have a router issue that I think is simply being caused by it being garbage, but I figured I would ask. Comcast gave me a call the other day and offered to quadruple my internet speeds for only $10 more a month, so now I have 105 megs down and am feeling pretty good. I have a separate cable modem and a Netgear WGR614 v7 wireless router. When I connect my PC directly to the cable modem, I get the full speed, averaging 108 down. However, when I use the router (connected via wire) I have gotten, at best, 60 megs down, and usually much slower. I never used my network to transfer things between computers, so I never realized how terrible the throughput was. Is it possible I could have router settings screwed up, or is this just a cheap older router that simply isn't good enough to actually deliver 100 megs? And if so, does anyone have experience with this router? I understand the folly in replacing one cheap router with another, but it is DD-WRT compatible apparently, so I assume that means I should be ok. I would get a nice dual band router, but I figure by the time I actually need something that good those routers will be more than $20 cheaper.
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Aug 17, 2014 17:55
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abagofcheetos posted:I understand the folly in replacing one cheap router with another, but it is DD-WRT compatible apparently, so I assume that means I should be ok. I would get a nice dual band router, but I figure by the time I actually need something that good those routers will be more than $20 cheaper. According to this page from TP-Link the WAN to LAN throughput for that router is about 90Mbits without any kind of tunneling, which is still slower than a direct connection to your modem. If that's too slow for you maybe check out the Asus RT-N16? It supports dd-wrt and has a throughput of about 140Mbits. Kind of difficult to find adequate/reliable hardware around the $20-50 price-range, dd-wrt or not.
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Aug 17, 2014 18:58
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Wow, thanks for that link. I might just bite the bullet on that $20 one, I can live with losing out on 10 megs for saving $60. If I was going to spend $80+ I would look into spending even more to get something really good, which my situation just doesn't require right now. Plus it looks like speeds increased from v7 to v8, and the Amazon reviews suggest it is up to v9, so maybe it will be even faster than the 95 listed. Thanks again! edit: the more I thought about it the more I realized I was going to be bothered by losing a megabyte of download speed so I caved and just bought this instead. When I get it and have it set up I'll post if I can get the 100+ from it. abagofcheetos fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Aug 17, 2014 |
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Aug 17, 2014 20:22
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So I get very nice residential internet. If I plug in, I get ~320Mbps down, 350Mbps up, unlimited, for 39$/mo. Wifi is different because I have an Asus RT N66U. On the 5ghz network I set up, I get 40Mbps down, 30Mbps up. On 2.5ghz I get like 3 down, 3 up. This is a really unique ISP that only serves some buildings in seattle and I won't have it forever and will likely go back to plebian internet speeds and pay 3x for it after I leave here and plan to get a house in the future, but while I'm here I want to max out my internet experience. 1) Can I tweak the N66U 5ghz network to get decent speeds? I though you could get like 100Mbps on these. I have it set to "N" devices only but didn't really mess with settings. 2) Is it stupid (yes, but how stupid) to get an Asus RT-AC68U or wait for a RT-AC87U? I know, I'm a dick, the speed is awesome.
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Aug 17, 2014 23:56
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CondoInternet? I'm probably going to be specifically looking for one of their buildings the next time I move.
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Aug 18, 2014 00:10
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Kreeblah posted:CondoInternet? I'm probably going to be specifically looking for one of their buildings the next time I move. You know, their naming structure sounds like a shell game. Their name is Atlas Networks, their internet is generally referred to as Seattle-On-Net, but they also use CondoInternet to describe it. The speeds are awesome and the price is great. PM me if you want to look at the Nolo or Wave buildings. This is what I get: 1,000/1,000Mbps burst (250Mbps guaranteed) no contract, setup cost, 39/mo
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Aug 18, 2014 00:21
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What kind of device are you using to connect wirelessly? Do you know its limits for how much traffic it can handle?
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Aug 18, 2014 00:39
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beepsandboops posted:What kind of device are you using to connect wirelessly? Do you know its limits for how much traffic it can handle? Devices: iPhone 5s HTC Droid DNA Chrombook Pixel Lenovo W500 (diverse family...) And no, I don't know the limitations
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Aug 18, 2014 01:02
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I know a lot of older devices can't take full advantage of the MIMO tech that makes really fast wireless speeds possible. I might check and see what the limits of your newer devices are like and see if they match up with the speeds that you've been getting on your router. That might be what's limiting your speeds on 5 GHz. 2 GHz's probably just a poo poo show no matter how you cut it (interference, small channel sizes, etc.).
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Aug 18, 2014 01:42
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Good point. Testing from Google Chromebook Pixel - 58.26Mbps down 149.18Mbps up 2ms ping, it has 802.11n with MIMO, from like.. 10 feet away from the router. Still not 100Mbps though.
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Aug 18, 2014 03:21
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Not an Anthem posted:1) Can I tweak the N66U 5ghz network to get decent speeds? I though you could get like 100Mbps on these. I have it set to "N" devices only but didn't really mess with settings. Not an Anthem posted:2) Is it stupid (yes, but how stupid) to get an Asus RT-AC68U or wait for a RT-AC87U? Don't bother getting 802.11ac gear until you have 802.11ac devices which support it. beepsandboops posted:I know a lot of older devices can't take full advantage of the MIMO tech that makes really fast wireless speeds possible. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 08:10
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CrazyLittle posted:You can get higher throughput by using wider band networks, but you'll also have less range and less penetration. Higher speed = shorter distance. Also you should see what your neighbors are using for their spectrum, and realize that all RF airtime is shared time, so don't expect decent performance over wifi. Thank you. I don't need range or penetration, small apartment and open plan. I'll scan what channels are less used tonight too. How do you set it to wider band networks?
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Aug 18, 2014 16:07
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Not an Anthem posted:Thank you. I don't need range or penetration, small apartment and open plan. I'll scan what channels are less used tonight too. How do you set it to wider band networks? Find the settings page in your router's settings that let you set the channel, and preferably the transmission strength too. You're looking for a setting that changes between 20mhz and 40mhz width on your selected channel band. Set your AP to channel 1 or channel 11, and then up the width to 40mhz. The chart below kinda explains what to expect. I wish I could find the chart that puts it in terms of signal strength but I'm not entirely certain if that would break somebody's copyright.  The colums are basically:
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Aug 18, 2014 20:00
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I've got 2 routers running tomato, one as a router and one extending the wifi past the kitchen. If the internet-facing router is using 6to4 tunneling for ipv6 how should I configure ipv6 on the other one?
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Aug 19, 2014 17:50
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Whats the recommended gig 24/48 port switch? I want to move my nas/esx into my crawlspace, but my switch thats down there is an old 10/100 24 port switch I bought off craigslist. Just the cheapest one I find? Is this too far away from home stuff for this thread?
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Aug 19, 2014 22:21
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blindjoe posted:Whats the recommended gig 24/48 port switch? I want to move my nas/esx into my crawlspace, but my switch thats down there is an old 10/100 24 port switch I bought off craigslist. Just the cheapest one I find? Is this too far away from home stuff for this thread? Unmanaged: Whatever has decent reviews. Managed: Depends what you want, but probably an HP of some type.
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Aug 19, 2014 22:29
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Inspector_666 posted:Unmanaged: Whatever has decent reviews. Unmanaged, so I guess Ill be looking for a deal/sale or something. We have dell's (sort of managed) at work and they suck, so I didn't know if there were others, but thanks anyways.
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Aug 19, 2014 22:33
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blindjoe posted:Unmanaged, so I guess Ill be looking for a deal/sale or something. We have dell's (sort of managed) at work and they suck, so I didn't know if there were others, but thanks anyways. There's not really anything to differentiate an unmanaged switch these days aside from maybe the warranty, so keeping up with recommendations would be a fool's errand.
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Aug 19, 2014 22:35
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I got the router today, and after putting on DD-WRT and loving around with it for a bit I did this:  I'm satisfied... hopefully it holds up! I don't really need any of the advanced stuff DD-WRT even offers, I just figured it would be more efficient and better at serving data. edit: just tried another and got 109. Pleased. abagofcheetos fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Aug 20, 2014 |
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Aug 20, 2014 00:51
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I'm looking for a cheap router to set up a VPN network on, and found a Tp Link Tl-wr702n for sale nearby. Does anybody know if these are any good, and if it'll do what I need?
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Aug 21, 2014 16:28
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I'm trying to set up a VPN tunnel to one of these servers, but since I don't really know anything about VPNs and there doesn't seem to be any real documentation for Tomato at all, I'm kind of stuck. I managed to get the OpenVPN Client to the point where it'll run when I click "Start Now" by plugging in anything that looked relevant from one of the OpenVPN config files that website, but it seems to have no effect beyond that, and my IP is unchanged. Is there some setting somewhere else that I need to enable to get this working?
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Aug 22, 2014 13:11
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What are some recommendations as far as Wifi receiver dongles?
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Aug 22, 2014 18:17
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Farecoal posted:What are some recommendations as far as Wifi receiver dongles? Intel makes some of the best networking gear so one of their PCI-e cards is the top suggestion in the parts picking thread. If you want USB then all bets are off. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106192 is the latest pci-e card (it's a little cheaper from other vendors but it hovers around $35). For USB I've mostly used the EdiMax super tiny modules because they've got good linux support. Without an external antenna they're probably not the best choice for everyone but they're like $9 or 10 regularly: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833315091&cm_re=edimax-_-33-315-091-_-Product If you want USB but you also want something a bit higher end than the edimax, I'd just sort by reviews on amazon unless another goon has used one they particularly like.
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Aug 23, 2014 00:21
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CrazyLittle posted:Find the settings page in your router's settings that let you set the channel, and preferably the transmission strength too. You're looking for a setting that changes between 20mhz and 40mhz width on your selected channel band. Set your AP to channel 1 or channel 11, and then up the width to 40mhz. The chart below kinda explains what to expect. I wish I could find the chart that puts it in terms of signal strength but I'm not entirely certain if that would break somebody's copyright. Thanks will figure it out this weekend. Moved the router across the apartment and now I barely get signal in the bedroom
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Aug 23, 2014 01:16
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OP is still gimping on AC gear, and while I've got laptops that support it, most of the streaming will be off a roku, and some usage on ipads. For what it's worth, I will try to set it up so that the roku is wired. iPads, I'm not really worried about throughput quite as much. What's my better option here, N or AC? Moving into a townhouse in a not terribly packed neighborhood but also thinking future-proofing a bit. recommendations? Also, is VOIP modem consensus still to rent from provider? Thanks!
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Aug 23, 2014 03:39
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So our goon recommended E3000 running Tomato USB just took a final poo poo (dropping packets, slow speed, random disconnects). We're going to flash the factory BIOS on it to see if it'll give new life to it but asuming it doesn't what's the recomended router for us. Our Internet is 50Mb cable through comcast. Our setup is 3 wired computers and 13 wireless devices on and off throughout the week, mostly tablets, consoles, streaming players etc...) Can anyone recommend a wireless router that will handle this load, I don't know how updated the OP is, as I was looking at getting a Asus NT-16 when I bought my E3000 almost 3 years ago.
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Aug 24, 2014 00:02
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Rexxed posted:Intel makes some of the best networking gear so one of their PCI-e cards is the top suggestion in the parts picking thread. If you want USB then all bets are off. I was thinking USB but this is probably the better option, thank you.
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Aug 24, 2014 00:47
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Anyone have any clever ways to get a US Macbook, or any US hardware for that matter to connect to wifi being broadcast on CH14? I live in a densely populated apt complex and CH 13 - 14 are the only empty channels (for obvious reasons)
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Aug 24, 2014 02:12
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Diametunim posted:Anyone have any clever ways to get a US Macbook, or any US hardware for that matter to connect to wifi being broadcast on CH14? I live in a densely populated apt complex and CH 13 - 14 are the only empty channels (for obvious reasons) This sounds like it's against the law
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Aug 24, 2014 02:27
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Use 5Ghz, that's what it is there for. Channel 14 is gimped enough already, its 802.11b and suffers from interference from commercial radio. I'm sure there are some insightful articles on the topic somewhere as this is frequently asked.
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Aug 24, 2014 02:28
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