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Oachkatzlschwoaf posted:On that note, what oval tracks are best to buy if I don't want to get them all right away? Right now I'm grinding up my SR to hopefully reach D 4.0 before Street Stock switches back to USA (screw that place in Rookies), with the goal to race mostly trucks and Indycar ovals. I don't follow real life oval racing though, so I have no idea what tracks are great fun or snorefests. (Also, I want to avoid getting tracks that are going to be phased out next season.) This is precisely what I just did in the past 2 days or so. I did a mix of starting from the pits and starting on grid (when I had decent grid position I would race). It would be quicker to only start in pit lane, but also extremely boring. I'm waiting for indycar series tracks to download right now for my time trials e: So, I got through rookies, and am doing tt's and learning milwaukee indycar. Any tips on the circuit? I've generally been entering each corner in 6th, and starting to lift off the throttle shortly after turning in. Then I shift down to 4th and keep some light throttle until I get around the apex/halfway point of the turn, at which point I go full throttle up to 5th then 6th. thehacker0 fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Aug 17, 2014 |
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Aug 17, 2014 16:32
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thehacker0 posted:e: So, I got through rookies, and am doing tt's and learning milwaukee indycar. Any tips on the circuit? I've generally been entering each corner in 6th, and starting to lift off the throttle shortly after turning in. Then I shift down to 4th and keep some light throttle until I get around the apex/halfway point of the turn, at which point I go full throttle up to 5th then 6th. If you're alone on the track never shift to 6th. Downshifting to 4th is optional on both ends of the track. It gives you more room for error than staying in 5th but if you're perfect in the corners staying in 5th is faster I think. In a race you should usually downshift to 4th especially in traffic. The fast line at Milwaukee isn't obvious. Basically throttle as late as you can into 1 so you can hit the little pit exit curbing that juts out in 2 then full throttle out. For 3, again gas as late as you can then cut it inside so you're riding the curb most of the way through 3 and 4. If you're doing this right your throttle makes a nice smooth parabolic curve as you're going into and exiting both sets of corners. My best lap is a 22.008.
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Aug 17, 2014 19:21
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On a similar theme of newbie questions, what are the cars to go for first after the free rookie chassis if I'm looking at going road racing? The Skip Barber I guess is an obvious choice from everything that has been said so far, but what else should I be picking up at the same time?
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Aug 17, 2014 20:05
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In terms of nascar racing options, if you aren't interested in the 'series' races (by that I mean the ones which only run a few times a week and are like 150+ laps aka C class national series) is your best bet to get to B class and race in the fixed series? I'm not ready to work on car setups yet, and have the C class trucks but i'm curious about which 'nascar' series would be best to focus on. Seems that the B class is the only real option if you don't want to do the major, super long weekly seasons. I just finished my C class time trials for indy, and my license is at C 3.6 so I figured I could get to B for that fixed nascar series in the next week or so while racing trucks and indys
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Aug 17, 2014 20:43
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Helicon One posted:On a similar theme of newbie questions, what are the cars to go for first after the free rookie chassis if I'm looking at going road racing? The Skip Barber I guess is an obvious choice from everything that has been said so far, but what else should I be picking up at the same time? I guess it depends on if you prefer open-wheel or sportscars... If you like open-wheel then get the DW-12 and Star Mazda, if you like some sportscars then I'd recommend the Ruf or BMW. Ruf is good because you get 4 different versions of it, the BMW is faster in GT3
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Aug 17, 2014 20:58
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Currently the Ruf seems to be the best bang for the buck sports car, as you've got 3 official series it can enter; Ruf Cup, GT3 series, and the World Sports Car Series.
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Aug 17, 2014 21:33
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If you have a C class oval license, the DW12 should be a day-one purchase. 
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Aug 17, 2014 23:32
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Spent a decent amount of time practicing indycar at Milwaukee today after hitting C license, and went for my first race. I debated starting from the pits my first time, and I probably should have, but I figured there would be carnage everywhere. I did pretty well for a few laps, no issues, keeping decent pace, control, and track position after starting 11th out of a 24 man field. Car #19 passed me on the inside, with barely enough room and I let him pass. He scrubbed way too much speed going wide so I passed him inside on the next straight, just as he did. However, he cut straight down on me on the next corner, in the same place that I let him pass. Pushed me off the track into the wall and I had too much damage to fix. 2 hour wait to try again because some rear end in a top hat can't yield to the same move he pulled 5 seconds earlier. I was hoping C class indy would be miles better than rookies, but I guess it's still full of mongoloids
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Aug 17, 2014 23:33
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There's a massive difference in driver quality between even two splits of Indy C when it splits into two. There are some notoriously bad drivers with iRatings around 500 that destroy all the bottom split races.
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Aug 17, 2014 23:39
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I'll take a look later at the split and the guy who retired my car. Was a bit worried that I would end up in bad splits after grinding rookies, but not sure there was another feasible option. Just need to treat these races similar to rookies I guess e: the guy that retired me has an irating of under 600 thehacker0 fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 17, 2014 23:42
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It's pretty common for people to ask how to learn a new course, but I've never seen a video of someone actually going through the process from beginning to decently fast. I decided to make a video of that as I learned Donington. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ulhq4cor1NU
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Aug 18, 2014 03:27
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Torabi posted:I still can't drive the truck properly for obvious reasons but when I bought it I was still skeptical. Then I hit the throttle for the first time. http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-PlayStation-Driving-Force-Racing-3/dp/B0015HYPOO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JJCENT29SFQAW740M0Z
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Aug 18, 2014 03:42
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Personperson14 posted:http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-PlayStation-Driving-Force-Racing-3/dp/B0015HYPOO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JJCENT29SFQAW740M0Z find that for sweeeeeden and it'll help him more
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Aug 18, 2014 04:17
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Torabi: If you're serious about iRacing, then save up 500 Euros and buy the Fanatec cockpit with wheel/pedals combo. It'll be well worth it if you have the space, plus Fanatec's wheels and pedals are top-of-the-line. I want their Formula Carbon steering wheel for the DW12, but it's $750 just to use that steering wheel, plus the cost of the cockpit, pedals, & shifter and I'll be broke and single in no time!
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Aug 18, 2014 04:38
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Don't worry guys. I'll probably buy a dfgt as soon as I move out again in like two weeks. That way I can have fun driving properly in iRacing and failing all of my classes. The g27 is already too much for me so I'll pass on that fanatec setup.  The dfgt isn't all that expensive for what you get but it kinda sucks knowing that it costs as much as the g27 in the US.
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Aug 18, 2014 13:42
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Don't knock the DF GT, it's what I'm still using. Too many other things to spend money on, drat you real world.
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Aug 18, 2014 13:58
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Lord Crapulus posted:Don't knock the DF GT, it's what I'm still using. Too many other things to spend money on, drat you real world. Yeah you'll be surprised how good it is. Maybe it's because I'm older and remember when entry level poo poo was actual poo poo, instead these DF GTs and Thrustmaster 3D joysticks they make are pretty good for what you pay, all things considered.
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Aug 19, 2014 02:50
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Torabi posted:Don't worry guys. I'll probably buy a dfgt as soon as I move out again in like two weeks. That way I can have fun driving properly in iRacing and failing all of my classes. DFGT is great, it's not about how expensive your setup is. It's all about you. iirc a lot of the pro guys use them still.
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Aug 19, 2014 02:56
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I just got this based on the free subscription. One of the 3 tracks I'm qualified for, the carburetor cup, says I need content. I look at my cart: $45. lololol gently caress this game. It's a shame because it's incredibly realistic and is the best feeling game by far I've tried on my new G27.
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Aug 19, 2014 03:22
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That's not a rookie series, it's a "anyone can join" series. It uses content that you don't need yet. Do the street stocks or miata cup. both of those use entirely free content.
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Aug 19, 2014 03:34
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Cojawfee posted:That's not a rookie series, it's a "anyone can join" series. It uses content that you don't need yet. Do the street stocks or miata cup. both of those use entirely free content. Regardless, it's insanely expensive. I'll definitely keep playing the Miata races, but I just don't know about ponying up the cash to do anything else.
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Aug 19, 2014 03:40
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Part of the massive cost for that one race might have been it suggesting you buy all three versions of the Gen6 car; you would only need one to race it. e: No one is going to argue that it isn't expensive though.
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Aug 19, 2014 03:44
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Yeah, it's 26 dollars for one car and the track.
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Aug 19, 2014 03:47
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sativa dreams posted:Regardless, it's insanely expensive. I'll definitely keep playing the Miata races, but I just don't know about ponying up the cash to do anything else. iRacing's structure can take some getting used to if you're coming from other games like Gran Turismo or whatever. It's not the kind of game where you beat an event and then move on to the next one. It takes a lot of practice with a particular series, driving a particular car, to be able to place consistently highly in that series' events. It may not seem like you get much with the base subscription, but just the Mazda Cup and Street Stock series should occupy you for weeks if not months.
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Aug 19, 2014 08:16
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Cojawfee posted:Yeah, it's 26 dollars for one car and the track. Don't just click the 'add all to cart button.' You only need one of the cars, and (not sure about this) 6-7 of the tracks to unlock the series. In most cases, the tracks you will buy for a series, say skip barber, will be used by most of the road series you would graduate to afterwards. So in reality, the $50 you may spend to unlock a series actually goes towards months upon months of racing content. And thats less than an xbox game. Really not that expensive if you think about how many times you will be lapping each track. And as someone has already said - the carb cup is unofficial, so its going to be a crash fest a lot of the time. Considering you just got the free sub, you should really be focusing on the rookies for a while. Learn Laguna Seca until you know every inch of it by heart, then next week learn the next track. The free content is truly immense thehacker0 fucked around with this message at 13:20 on Aug 19, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 13:16
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Playing a few seasons of Skip Barber really fleshed my track selection out. Racing fixed Indy got me to buy some oval tracks and then I bought a couple because of Star Mazda (but still haven't really raced it yet). It's expensive, but if you buy one track a month, it's not bad. When you think about what you get for 12-15 bucks, it's not bad. They painstakingly laser scan every track and then add in every detail they can think of to make sure it's exactly how it would be driving the real thing. Same thing with the cars. It's not like they throw some tape on a car and pretend to scan it and do a horrible job like the Forza team does.
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Aug 19, 2014 13:57
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thehacker0 posted:Don't just click the 'add all to cart button.' You only need one of the cars, and (not sure about this) 6-7 of the tracks to unlock the series. In most cases, the tracks you will buy for a series, say skip barber, will be used by most of the road series you would graduate to afterwards. So in reality, the $50 you may spend to unlock a series actually goes towards months upon months of racing content. And thats less than an xbox game. Really not that expensive if you think about how many times you will be lapping each track. Yeah, I realize that now that it was trying to get me to purchase multiple cars. Still rather pricey, but I see how a couple purchases could provide a lot of value. So with the Miata cup, (is this basically the only rookie thing I can race for free thats decent?) is every track that is raced throughout the 12 week (?) series going to be provided to me for free? or might I have to buy next weeks track or something. Also, based on the OP, I should buy the skip barber car as my first purchase and start doing some racing with that? I think I need to start learning heel-toe shifting too, as I feel like I'm at quite a disadvantage when I'm braking / downshifting like a granny. I've been driving stick in real life for 10 years but heel-toe downshifting isn't something I've ever found necessary until now. Are most people racing with the clutch and h-shifter? sativa dreams fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Aug 19, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 14:13
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sativa dreams posted:Yeah, I realize that now that it was trying to get me to purchase multiple cars. Still rather pricey, but I see how a couple purchases could provide a lot of value. For road: All the mx-5 cup tracks are free, and there are 4 of them. I thoroughly enjoy each one, and I think they are perfect for learning on but still have some good depth to them. It's not the only series, you can also race the advanced rookie series, the production car challenge. It's pretty similar, kinda like a big kids version of the rookie series. You can drive the mx-5 roadster or the solstice (both free) and the tracks are all free (but mostly the same). Some different configurations and the Charlotte road coarse. For oval you have some more content as well, street stocks+legends. I race both, but spent much more time in oval rookies because I skipped D class (not a fan of any of the D oval series) by grinding some rookie oval races. In road I got the skippy pretty shortly after starting, but continued racing rookie/advanced rookie for a while as I practiced. In terms of buying content, remember you do NOT need all the tracks. I'm not 100% sure on how many you need to unlock a series, somewhere around 7 tracks for the skippy and some oval series I bought. The overlap really helps - I bought the skippy tracks, then realized I only needed one more track to unlock the gran touring D class series and the global challenge. Basically got 2 additional series along with the skippy. thehacker0 fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Aug 19, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 14:20
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What? You unlock a series by being at the right license level. You only need the track for the current week. I was racing fixed Indy and only had like two of the tracks.
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Aug 19, 2014 14:39
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Yes iRacing is very expensive, but it's all about knowing when/where to spend your money. This really helps if you know exactly what car(s) you want to race, then tracks will follow. If you're into NASCAR then you'll only want to buy oval tracks. Or if you're into sportscars then you'd wanna avoid just about every oval except Indy and Daytona. Or if you're like me and obsessed with the DW-12 you'll wanna own every track they have which I do. There are 3 main ways to save a great many  ...1. Buying credits in bulk and during sales Once or twice a year iRacing offers bonus credits when you spend a certain amount. I bought $100 in iRacing credits for $75, so that's 2 free tracks right there. 2. Bulk purchasing content Never buy just 1 or 2 items at a time. Always buy at least 3 or 6+ and save money! quote:10% Bulk Purchase Discount: Purchase/License any three to five pieces of content (cars/tracks) at once and receive 10% off the total. 3. Membership Specials Best deal of all is their semi-annual deal for a 2-year subscription for $99  Absolutely IncredibleThey usually do this deal around July 1st and Black Friday/Cyber Monday Edit: Put that in the OP KingShibby fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Aug 19, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 14:46
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also, before you buy anything, always google iracing coupon codes. I got 3 months for 1, for 2 minutes of searching.
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Aug 19, 2014 14:49
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sativa dreams posted:I just got this based on the free subscription. One of the 3 tracks I'm qualified for, the carburetor cup, says I need content. I look at my cart: $45. lololol gently caress this game. If you want a racing sim without sub-fees (and kinda ridiculous cost for tracks/cars) you could always try Assetto Corsa. Physics/FFB are just as good, if not better than iRacing, official tracks are laserscanned and theres tons of great community made content already.
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Aug 19, 2014 14:54
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In terms of bang for the buck, are there any trends as to what road courses get most widely used or does it just the luck of the draw from season to season and series to series? I'm assuming iRacing try to rotate the tracks as widely as possible to get everyone spending the most money but any tips beyond that?
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Aug 19, 2014 14:56
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Helicon One posted:In terms of bang for the buck, are there any trends as to what road courses get most widely used or does it just the luck of the draw from season to season and series to series? I'm assuming iRacing try to rotate the tracks as widely as possible to get everyone spending the most money but any tips beyond that? Typically road series have a pool of 14-15 tracks they rotate from season-to-season. When new road tracks come out that are a good fit they'll bump one of the tracks from the pool to add the new track. So if you find a series you wanna consistently run you could buy every track for the current season then only need to buy 1 or 2 track per season in order to run every week of the season. Also in the popular series the community puts out a poll for next season's scheduling so you can have a say and get a feel for what you'll want to buy down the line.
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Aug 19, 2014 15:07
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Das Butterbrot posted:If you want a racing sim without sub-fees (and kinda ridiculous cost for tracks/cars) you could always try Assetto Corsa. Physics/FFB are just as good, if not better than iRacing, official tracks are laserscanned and theres tons of great community made content already. I've never really played a lot of racing games until now but, the reason I went with iRacing was beccause of the SR system. Are there any other racing games out there that does that? People still crash like idiots but at least there is a way to get away from them thanks to SR. Boar It fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Aug 19, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 16:13
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Helicon One posted:In terms of bang for the buck, are there any trends as to what road courses get most widely used or does it just the luck of the draw from season to season and series to series? I'm assuming iRacing try to rotate the tracks as widely as possible to get everyone spending the most money but any tips beyond that? Neither are in the Skippy schedule this season, but Watkins Glen gets used in most road series and Road Atlanta is another very popular track. For some reason the Skippy has a lot of low population tracks on the schedule. It may be better to wait on next season before investing in any tracks.
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Aug 19, 2014 17:29
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Torabi posted:I've never really played a lot of racing games until now but, the reason I went with iRacing was beccause of the SR system. Are there any other racing games out there that does that? People still crash like idiots but at least there is a way to get away from them thanks to SR. Same here. I'm really surprised that other racing games have not implemented systems to incentivize clean racing and punish crashing/contact/leaving the circuit. The absolute biggest problem with every racing game I have played in terms of multiplayer/online is multitude of morons crashing around like bumper cars. It's generally bad to the point that I end up racing alone, which is just not engaging enough for me. Hopefully some of the promising upcoming games like project cars will have a system for encouraging clean racing
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Aug 19, 2014 18:34
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thehacker0 posted:Same here. I'm really surprised that other racing games have not implemented systems to incentivize clean racing and punish crashing/contact/leaving the circuit. I wouldn't be surprised to see iRacing hold a patent on the Safety Rating system which would explain why others haven't copied it.
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Aug 19, 2014 18:38
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I bought twin motegi and started driving around on it with my indycar. Driving an indycar with a 360 controller is actually possible on this track, My best time was something like 29.3-29.4 seconds and while I did bump into walls and stuff I don't crash nearly as much as I did when I tried to drive on charlotte. Did I just somehow get better at driving or is the dw12 just not meant to be driven on charlotte? Because there I even managed to spin out on the straights, especially coming out of corners.
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Aug 19, 2014 18:47
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Torabi posted:I bought twin motegi and started driving around on it with my indycar. Driving an indycar with a 360 controller is actually possible on this track, My best time was something like 29.3-29.4 seconds and while I did bump into walls and stuff I don't crash nearly as much as I did when I tried to drive on charlotte. Did I just somehow get better at driving or is the dw12 just not meant to be driven on charlotte? Because there I even managed to spin out on the straights, especially coming out of corners. I hate Motegi, but I raced the DW12 at Charlotte in a hosted race last week and I was flat-out the whole way around. It felt like the Star Mazda races I did at Charlotte but faster.
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Aug 19, 2014 18:53
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