|
Are you positive those are 1/8" connectors? They almost look more like RCA jacks.
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2014 01:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 23:51 |
|
|
They don't really seem like 1/8" or RCA jacks. I was kind of thinking they might be, but the hole in the middle is bigger than any RCA jacks I've seen, including the preamp outs on the same unit. I'm just confused as to why the mic that came with it doesn't plug into it. Is there something broken or is there a common thing with those that I don't know about? I dunno. edit: Actually, I bought it used from somebody here and now that I look more closely at the pictures on the crutchfield site, I might have the wrong mic. So....never mind for now, but thanks. Soup in a Bag fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jul 26, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2014 05:35
|
|
|
I want a head unit to replace the tape deck on my 1995 BMW 318i. I'll be using it exclusively with my phone - so I want it to be Bluetooth, and ideally have a mic and support making and receiving calls through it as well. Some sort of remote that I can jury rig onto the steering wheel would be cool too, but not as needed. Sound quality isn't a huge priority, as I don't plan on replacing any speakers anyways. What is my best, affordable option?
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2014 17:48
|
|
|
IuniusBrutus posted:I want a head unit to replace the tape deck on my 1995 BMW 318i. I'll be using it exclusively with my phone - so I want it to be Bluetooth, and ideally have a mic and support making and receiving calls through it as well. Some sort of remote that I can jury rig onto the steering wheel would be cool too, but not as needed. Sound quality isn't a huge priority, as I don't plan on replacing any speakers anyways. Is it a double or single din unit? I'm super happy with my Blaupunkt unit's call quality so far. It also doesn't look 
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2014 18:18
|
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:Is it a double or single din unit? Single din. I forgot to mention - that also would be an awesome plus. Less bullshit knobs and LEDs, the better.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2014 22:22
|
|
|
Sound Deadener Showdown. For those of you who have used this complete setup, what's the rough cost to properly sound deaden the bottom of a car? (entire trunk + entire cabin floor + doors) Car's a Volvo 240 sedan for reference.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2014 02:01
|
|
|
Fucknag posted:Are you positive those are 1/8" connectors? They almost look more like RCA jacks. Turning this around, are you sure the mic is a 1/8" / 3.5mm and not actually a 2.5mm? It seems kinda skinny but it could just be a weird photo.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2014 03:54
|
|
|
Yeah, it ended up being a 2.5mm mic and the Alpine has a 3.5mm jack.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2014 05:44
|
|
|
IuniusBrutus posted:Single din. I forgot to mention - that also would be an awesome plus. Less bullshit knobs and LEDs, the better. Then I definitely suggest the Blaupunkt Helsinki or Toronto, as they have Bluetooth, and don't look insane. The knob glows blue (don't like it too much, but it's not terribly bright) and the buttons are a dim red. It auto syncs with my phone when I get in, I just have to hit the input button and it starts streaming, with back-forward working through the header just fine on Google Music (which is my primary music app). Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 11:08 on Jul 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2014 11:06
|
|
|
I need some advice on what to do with my OEM radio in my -01 BMW E39. It has dead pixels, bad radio reception and no aux / usb / bluetooth (obviously). Recently i broke it while replacing the AC blower motor so i'm thinking about replacing it all together. What should i get if i want to stream music via bluetooth (and maybe usb?) but don't really need much else and don't want to spend a lot? I don't need GPS, i don't need a CD or DVD reader (or DVR, what?) or back-up camera in-ports, i don't need any fancy stuff. Just Bluetooth music streaming from my phone (don't care about handsfree) and FM radio reception. I've seen a Pioneer MVH-X560BT for 144$ that seems to have everything i need. Will i need some kind of extra adapter kit or something? How do i find out? Killstick fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jul 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2014 11:15
|
|
|
I need to get differently balanced audio out from my head unit into a 4 ch amp. Im debating if I pony us for a JL 300/4 which would natively support it or if I dig around for a converter and use a cheaper JX amp or just go with another brand. Any one know of a good converter for deferentially balanced inputs or a good amp for the money that can take them?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2014 14:54
|
|
|
Sadi posted:I need to get differently balanced audio out from my head unit into a 4 ch amp. Im debating if I pony us for a JL 300/4 which would natively support it or if I dig around for a converter and use a cheaper JX amp or just go with another brand. Any one know of a good converter for deferentially balanced inputs or a good amp for the money that can take them? If you have a stock head unit you'd probably want a line out converter where you could connect your high level inputs, and then connect your amp. I wonder if an AudioControl LC6i (or similar) would work for your purposes? I just installed a JBL MS-8 which does the same as the AC, but has way more configuration options and amplifies the outputs - depending on your needs this may be a good all in one unit.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2014 17:19
|
|
|
LessThanThree posted:If you have a stock head unit you'd probably want a line out converter where you could connect your high level inputs, and then connect your amp. I wonder if an AudioControl LC6i (or similar) would work for your purposes? I hadnt looking into JBL stuff. Looking at the MS8 lead me to the MS-A1004. That seems like it may be ideal for what I am looking to do. I was looking at used JL300/4s and they are near as much as a new JBL A1004. My only fear is the A1004 is a D type. I have heard to stay away from those for higher than sub frequency speakers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2014 19:16
|
|
|
2003 toyota corolla s. Stock everything. I want bluetooth for my wife's iphone 5. Music and hands free. Crutchfield points me to two options. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE153B/Alpine-CDE-153BT.html?tp=5684 or http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105AR959BS/JVC-Arsenal-KD-AR959BS.html?tp=5684 Those come with everything I need? Order one of those headunits and watch a youtube video and I should be able to install it myself? Any particular reason to spend the extra money on the alpine? Or is the JVC just fine? Better price anywhere else?
|
|
#
?
Aug 5, 2014 05:14
|
|
|
If it matters, JVC will let you customize colors, Alpine will not. If you order from Crutchfield both should have everything you need (aside from something to crimp or solder the wiring tails).
|
|
#
?
Aug 5, 2014 05:21
|
|
|
I know back in the day, Soundstream made amazing amps. It looks like they make head units now. Anyone have experience with one? They seem to have a nice feature set, but I'm worried some low end company may have bought the name (kind of like Maxxsonics with MB Quart). It's a brand I really haven't seen since the late 90s/early 00s, so I'm a little suspicious. Also, is there any way to keep "retained accessory power" working (GM) without the $$$$$$ adapters? To keep it working on my car, I have to drop $100 on one that also retains OnStar (which I don't give two shits about keeping anymore; the OnStar module itself is bad and NLA). 2006 Saturn Ion, in this case. The cheap harness adapters don't keep RAP working, and there's nothing else behind the dash that stays on with RAP. RAP keeps the power windows, sunroof, and radio working for 10 minutes after turning off the key, or until opening a door. The nearest wire I think I could tap would be the same one I'm using as a remote wire for my amp - the rear cig lighter socket, but I'd rather keep it as simple as possible. AFAIK, the stock radio is turned on/off via the GM LAN bus, though there is a switched 12V in the harness (without the RAP functionality). It's basically $10 vs $100 to keep this one feature. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Aug 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 5, 2014 12:22
|
|
|
I apologize in advance for this stupid question but at least I am smart enough to defer to others' experience and expertise. I'm replacing an amp from a small 100W MTX to a 500W MTX. I know the OEM subwoofer wiring probably isn't up to the task of powering it so I'm running new power cables. The amp and battery are in the trunk. I'm planning on running a direct-to-positive 8G cable, but my amp install guide recommends running the negative lead to a ground and not directly to the battery. Is this because most cars' batteries are in the front, or is it genuinely a bad idea? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 5, 2014 16:19
|
|
|
It's generally so you can use the shortest length of wire possible. I used one of the rear seat latch bolts as my ground point, even though the battery is in the trunk - my amp is mounted to the back of the seat anyway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 5, 2014 21:33
|
|
|
Hey guys, i'm trying to help my nephew install a new sound system in his car, nothing too fancy... but anyway, he has a toyota camry 2002 XLE. We're looking at this double din receiver: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/FH-X700BT and these 2 coaxial speakers: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-A1...ds=car+speakers I notice that the receiver has this to say about it's built in amplifier: MOSFET 50 W x 4 Edit: Oh, it says the RMS power output is 14 watts on crutchfield... so i need an amp? While the speakers have this power: Max power: 300 W / RMS: 50 W So is this basically a perfect fit between the speakers/receiver? I don't need an additional amplifier? He's not one of those people who blasts his music so the whole neighborhood can hear it, he does like listening to dubstep/hip hop/classic rock/jazz. He's not looking to make his ear drum explode though. But we are wondering if the bass will be 'good enough' without needing an amplifier (the current stock speakers are AWFUL all around). Thanks! Mister Fister fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Aug 16, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2014 15:35
|
|
|
Mister Fister posted:Hey guys, i'm trying to help my nephew install a new sound system in his car, nothing too fancy... but anyway, he has a toyota camry 2002 XLE. You'll be fine without an amp. The next upgrade will obviously be the speakers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2014 17:38
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:I know back in the day, Soundstream made amazing amps. My friend has "vintage" USA made Soundstream amps and speakers in his Volvo and it sounds great. He told me the new stuff is junk made overseas. I cannot personally attest to any of this.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2014 17:44
|
|
|
hunter x az posted:You'll be fine without an amp. The next upgrade will obviously be the speakers. Thanks... what else do we need to buy? I'm guessing a harness, some sort of kit to fit the Double Din headunit into the Camry... anything else? Do we need new speaker wires? Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2014 00:52
|
|
|
Mister Fister posted:Thanks... what else do we need to buy? I'm guessing a harness, some sort of kit to fit the Double Din headunit into the Camry... anything else? Do we need new speaker wires? Thanks! You'll just need a harness that matches your vehicle. All your factory wires will splice into that accordingly and should be color coded to match your vehicles harness. Check any local install shop, or call best buy or even check metra's website and look up your vehicle. No, no new speaker wires.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2014 01:41
|
|
|
Pretty knowledgelessly trying to put together a headunitless setup for a 79 VW camper for relatively cheap, input would be appreciated. I'm looking at getting two sets of these for the front and back speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20641DS54/Kicker-41DSC54.html?tp=105 mainly because of the low mount depth. I'd prefer to mount the speakers in the side panels of the bus if possible, and there's only about 2" of space to work with by the back seat. I was considering getting these for the front instead: http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPS-619-Coaxial-Type-S-Speaker/dp/B004TNU40U#productDetails but I don't really know how much of a difference it would make. I'm thinking of mounting one of these behind the driver seat (and possibly one behind the passenger seat? I don't really understand how I should use subwoofers to get good sounds to happen): http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20610TC104/Kicker-10TC104.html?tp=112 because I don't really have any space to put a standard sub box. I was also eyeing cylinder-subs because I could probably fit one of them in the weird slanted space under the back seat. Is this dumb/missing anything? Also what type of amp would I need for this? Currently I run a tape deck to one speaker dangling out of a door panel, so anything will be an upgrade, but I'm looking to have a decent (inexpensive) system for playing a range of music. surc fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Aug 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2014 04:51
|
|
|
surc posted:Pretty knowledgelessly trying to put together a headunitless setup for a 79 VW camper I'm a bit mystified by the term "headunitless setup". You need something to power the speakers, either a head unit or some sort of amplifier. A head unit is the obvious and simplest choice, but if you can't/wont fit a head unit in the dash or anywhere else, you could conceivably cobble something together with some amps hidden away somewhere being fed your music via an mp3 player or your phone or whatever. I wouldn't really recommend this unless it's absolutely necessary, though. As for the speaker depth, would it be at all feasible to have them stick out from the side panels a little? The use of spacer rings would allow you to use deeper speakers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2014 22:21
|
|
|
Mr. Beefhead posted:I'm a bit mystified by the term "headunitless setup". You need something to power the speakers, either a head unit or some sort of amplifier. A head unit is the obvious and simplest choice, but if you can't/wont fit a head unit in the dash or anywhere else, you could conceivably cobble something together with some amps hidden away somewhere being fed your music via an mp3 player or your phone or whatever. I wouldn't really recommend this unless it's absolutely necessary, though. I am not going to use radio/cd player/tape player, I am pretty much going to be listening to pre-created playlists of music from a phone/tablet, so I don't really see the point in paying for a head unit. It's also a VW bus which is stupendously easy to break into, so this has the added benefit of me being able to just leave the old tape deck in place for camouflage. I actually got the idea from the first few pages of this thread, there was a bunch of chat about it. For the same reason I'd prefer to keep the speakers as out of sight as possible instead of sticking out of the panels. There's a limit to just how much I can cram into a small amount of space though, so I'm aware I may have to make compromises on the rear speakers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 00:43
|
|
|
Hey guys, i want to revisit my post from a few posts back. So if I get this receiver with 14 RMS output: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/FH-X700BT And i want to go with component speakers in the front instead of coaxials, should i get an amp? With coaxes, hunter x said i don't need an amp, but i was watching some videos and some people recommended an amp with component speakers. Again, this system isn't going to be blasted out into the neighborhood, it's just for inside the car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 02:41
|
|
|
Even with components, the built in 14W RMS amp is plenty. Any good set of components comes with a crossover of some sort, so it's still a 4 ohm load to the head unit (meaning it's still delivering 14W RMS; it splits it between the mid and tweeter based on the frequency, in a nutshell). 14W RMS is pretty standard for most consumer grade head units; I've run components off of several head units with the same power rating. I'd suggest an amp if you were going for a high end system, with lots of bass, or a larger vehicle (minivan, etc); but for a basic stereo (with maybe a sub or two) in your typical size car, you're fine with the built-in amp. I ran a 14W RMS stereo with components and a 12" sub in my last car and had no issues (also with a Pioneer head unit, though a much lower end one). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Aug 18, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 10:01
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Even with components, the built in 14W RMS amp is plenty. Any good set of components comes with a crossover of some sort, so it's still a 4 ohm load to the head unit (meaning it's still delivering 14W RMS; it splits it between the mid and tweeter based on the frequency, in a nutshell). Oh thanks... i had no idea i could use a subwoofer off just the head unit. Was your subwoofer a self powered subwoofer? I hadn't even considered a seperate sub, but if that's a possibility, I might also want to add that...
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 15:03
|
|
|
Mister Fister posted:Oh thanks... i had no idea i could use a subwoofer off just the head unit. Was your subwoofer a self powered subwoofer? Your head unit comes with RCA outputs. Subs are a really simple install. If you want one, I'd set up wiring for an amp now while installing the head unit. Powered subs are kind of janky with the low cost of amps and subs these days.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 16:11
|
|
|
surc posted:I am not going to use radio/cd player/tape player, I am pretty much going to be listening to pre-created playlists of music from a phone/tablet, so I don't really see the point in paying for a head unit. It's also a VW bus which is stupendously easy to break into, so this has the added benefit of me being able to just leave the old tape deck in place for camouflage. I actually got the idea from the first few pages of this thread, there was a bunch of chat about it. You really wouldn't be wasting money, as a head unit would take care of amplifying the front and rear speakers for you, as well as avoiding the possible need for a line driver, but I can certainly understand the desire to keep an install stealth. If you're going the no head unit route, you'll need an amp, or amps, that provide 4 channels of amplification for your fronts and rears and then whatever power you need for your sub(s). You will also need to do a little research on what you've got in the way of available power in there. A quick google suggests that you might have a 55 amp alternator, which is drat tiny. You will likely encounter problems if you try to run too large of a system. I really don't know if that alternator size is correct, though - you should verify for yourself, if you don't already know. I assume that there are VW Bus enthusiast sites out there, I would suggest checking around to see what kind of luck people have had installing amplifiers in them before you spend your money. If you decide to go for the full system with subwoofer(s), I'd suggest a 5 channel amp such as this Soundstream. I don't have first hand experience with it, but it seems to have good reviews and is inexpensive. If you have enough power to drive it, you would be able to run one or two of the Kicker subs you indicated you were interested in from the sub channel. If you decide that you don't have enough power for a full setup with subs, I'd recommend something like this tiny 4-channel Alpine to power your fronts and rears. In this instance, I'd strongly recommend those spacer rings I commented on earlier, as well as moving up to 6.5" speakers if at all possible - a larger speaker will give you more low bass, which you'll want as much of as you can get if you can't run a sub. Now, the major problem with both of these options is that when using the headphone jack from a phone or tablet, you will be dealing with a signal with a considerably lower voltage than a typical head unit. I don't know what exactly you'll be dealing with, but I'd imagine that you'd be looking at something in the area of half a volt. Most aftermarket systems these days are 4 volt. The issue is that with such a low voltage you will be raising the noise floor considerably, which could result in extremely loud hiss and/or noise from electrical interference, such as alternator whine. You really can't know for certain if this will be a problem until you have your components installed. One way to possibly minimize this would be if you are able to install the amplifier very close to your music source, as the shorter run of cable will be less likely to pick up noise. Another option would be to add a line driver of some sort, so as to boost the voltage of your music source. Here is a link to a thread describing noise problems that arose from a similar setup to what you desire, and the steps he took to remedy it. Take note however, while the information in that thread could be of use as an example, I think the biggest problem he had was using a poorly designed line driver that didn't have a proper ground. Here's a link to a newer model that appears to have improved the design. You will also need to run power, and possibly some sort of a switch, to the remote turn on of whatever amp you decide to use. You could wire it to something that turns on when you turn the key, which will turn the amps on whenever the car is on. You could also run a line directly from the battery, to a switch, to an amp, which would allow you to turn your amps on whenever you wanted even if the car was off, but if you ever forget and leave the switch on you'll come back to a dead battery. Mr. Beefhead fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Aug 18, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 16:53
|
|
|
I'm at work and so can't give that post all the attention it deserves, but thank you for that excellent bunch of info! I'm already aware of power constraints.  I'm planning on having a second battery anyway since I plan to use the bus for camping, so I was figuring I'd probably run it off that. I think that would take care of the issue, unless there is some mystical audio power thing I don't know about.  I had been wondering if there would be noise issues with the phone. :-/ Maybe I'll get a head unit after all and just stick it in the glove box or something.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 21:50
|
|
|
hunter x az posted:Your head unit comes with RCA outputs. Subs are a really simple install. If you want one, I'd set up wiring for an amp now while installing the head unit. Powered subs are kind of janky with the low cost of amps and subs these days. Thanks for all your help fellow goons.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 22:10
|
|
|
How do you guys feel about Crutchfield's brand, Sound Ordnance? I'm looking at their Component Speakers and possibly their Amplifier/Subwoofers. They seem to get good reviews on Crutchfield's site, but i'm not sure if you guys consider them a 'cheap' brand or not. http://www.crutchfield.com/brands/Sound-Ordnance/
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2014 15:56
|
|
|
Mister Fister posted:Oh thanks... i had no idea i could use a subwoofer off just the head unit. Was your subwoofer a self powered subwoofer? You generally need an amplifier dedicated to the sub. Self powered ones do exist (they still need to be wired to the battery and stereo; the only benefit to them is having everything in one self-contained unit). Still need to do all the same wiring. If you're going to consider adding a sub down the line, you may as well pick up an appropriately sized wiring kit (8 gauge is probably fine for a single sub). Run the remote turn on lead and RCAs to the trunk while you've got the dash apart, don't worry about the power wires until you're ready to add an amp. Just make sure to cap off the remote turn on lead in the trunk (or just run it to the dash, but don't hook it up until you're ready, if your head unit is easy to pull out). surc posted:I'm at work and so can't give that post all the attention it deserves, but thank you for that excellent bunch of info! I'm already aware of power constraints. That's your best option for the head unit, or just get a cheap tape deck with an aux input (that one only powers 2 speakers though). And yeah, you'll need a beefier alternator of some sort, ESPECIALLY if you're adding a second battery. Someone likely makes a higher output version; if not, you can probably find an old school alternator/starter shop to rewind it for higher output, or convert to a GM 12SI alternator (hundreds of versions, can be wired to run as a 1 wire unit, though you'll have a lower output voltage in 1 wire configuration and no warning light if it craps). Your existing alternator was meant to just run basic lights, the ignition system, and wipers, and top off whatever the battery lost from starting the engine. Your second battery should be a deep cycle if you're going to be camping, and you'll definitely want an isolation switch that will disconnect it from the main battery when the engine is off.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2014 16:18
|
|
|
Here's a basic question. If you are replacing your head unit and changing speakers, do you need to replace the wiring to your door speakers? How to-the-limit is OEM speaker wiring, usually?
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2014 22:46
|
|
|
stevobob posted:Here's a basic question. If you are replacing your head unit and changing speakers, do you need to replace the wiring to your door speakers? How to-the-limit is OEM speaker wiring, usually? In a modern car you'd almost certainly be fine. An older car, you might want to run new wire. The first car I ever put an aftermarket head unit in was an '83 Oldsmobile, and the speaker wires in that thing looked like tinsel. There was a noticeable improvement when I ran new wire...at least, I think there was. It was a long time ago.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2014 23:49
|
|
|
If you're powering them from the head unit, you're fine with the stock wiring with most stuff post mid-late 80s. It's usually 20-22 gauge, but for the 13W RMS most head units put out, that's fine. Mr. Beefhead posted:In a modern car you'd almost certainly be fine. An older car, you might want to run new wire. The first car I ever put an aftermarket head unit in was an '83 Oldsmobile, and the speaker wires in that thing looked like tinsel. There was a noticeable improvement when I ran new wire...at least, I think there was. It was a long time ago. Yeah, in my 80 F-150 the stock wiring was about the same. Thankfully it was really (stupidly) easy to pull new wire into the doors, but it didn't have power windows or locks to deal with.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2014 16:34
|
|
|
I am trying to add an aux jack to my Dad's old 2003 Audi A6. All the sources online seem to say that this is only possible using a Dension Gateway unit, but their website doesn't actually say what the differences are between their billion models. Does anyone know which one I should spring for? I don't really care about actually being able to control my iPhone through the stereo, since I'll have it mounted to the dash with a ProClip. Or is there a better way to get an aux-out on this monster? Audio quality is key here. I might replace the speakers too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2014 05:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 23:51 |
|
|
A little picky, but I'm trying to determine the best stereo for me. I'm looking for a double-DIN model with a touchscreen, bluetooth audio streaming, iPod compatibility (because AT&T's stupid 2GB data cap gets eaten up in a week with Google music streaming), and if possible, navigation. For now, no real price point, just seeing what's available and what brands are the best. I remember in research a while back I found lots of people online saying that Pioneer's Appradio was lovely with the Samsung GSIII, but I will probably be getting an S5 in November, so how does it function with that in comparison to say, the newer iPhones? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2014 08:25
|
|
