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Thanks for the feedback! I made the following tweaks: - Upped 2-Row to 9# - Dropped the CaraRed From the site I found that explains diastatic power, I found the following equation: (Lintner for grain * weight) / (total mash weight) = batch Lintner, which should be > 30 They estimate 2-Row at 140 Lintner, which gives me (9*140) / 18.5 = 68.1, which should be plenty to convert all the starches, correct? None of the other mash ingredients seem to have any diastatic power so I've plugged in zero for their values. e: also cut down the DME to try to maintain roughly the same estimated OG. nullfunction fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Aug 20, 2014 |
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Aug 20, 2014 21:47
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ChiTownEddie posted:Dang. AHA tweeted the recipe to an Oktoberfest. I really want to brew one but I'm not sure I want to dedicate my single fridge that doubles as a 1 vessel fermentation chamber/kegerator to 1 beer for 2 months of brew time. I haven't, but I did just brew an Ofest with reasonably high gravity (1.067) that I'll be kegging in 2 days or so, grain to keg 14 days, expecting grain to glass in 21 days: more falafel please posted:If you're kegging, do the quick lager method and be drinking it by mid-September: http://brulosophy.com/lager-method/
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Aug 20, 2014 22:22
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Well hot drat. I'm brewing an Oktoberfest.
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Aug 20, 2014 22:28
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nullfunction posted:Could I get your opinions on this recipe? My brew buddy and I are looking to do this labor day weekend. As was mentioned previously, you have WAY too much in the way of dark specialty malts. It's going to be too sweet, dark, and roasty. I wouldn't get rid of the CaraRed, just cut it by about half. I made a red once with about 5% CaraRed and it was really nice. Flaked Rye is probably not what you want since it has less rye flavor than rye malt, no diastatic power, and will give your beer a really thick consistency if you use that much. Switch that out in favor of regular Rye Malt, IMO. As for the hop additions, 41 IBU is not going to be enough bitterness to balance out the malty sweetness of this sort of beer and make it taste anything like an IPA. Amarillo is wasted as a 60 minute addition and Chinook can be a little harsh for bittering. Move that 60 minute addition up to between 15 minutes and flameout and substitute 2oz of a good neutral bittering hop like Warrior, Magnum, or Columbus. You could do something like: 9# DME 7# 2 row 5# Rye Malt 1.5# CaraRed 1# CaraRye (or crystal 60 if you can't find that) 0.5# Chocolate Rye 2oz Warrior @60 min 1 oz each Amarillo and Chinook @10 min 1 oz each Amarillo and Chinook @5 min 1 oz each Amarillo and Chinook @flameout 1 oz each Amarillo and Chinook dry hop 1.072 OG at 65% efficiency 14 SRM 66 IBU 1.014 FG and 7.5 ABV at 80% attenuation (All estimates from Brewtoad)
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Aug 21, 2014 06:07
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nerds posted:Ofest chatz I'm tempted to finally brew an oktoberfest though I don't have great lagering availability - I'll assume Cal Common is an okay sub for that, yes?
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Aug 21, 2014 14:24
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Jacobey000 posted:I'm tempted to finally brew an oktoberfest though I don't have great lagering availability - I'll assume Cal Common is an okay sub for that, yes? Last "Oktoberfest" I did was with US05 at 60 degrees and turned out decently clean and quite tasty.
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Aug 21, 2014 14:48
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Jacobey000 posted:I'm tempted to finally brew an oktoberfest though I don't have great lagering availability - I'll assume Cal Common is an okay sub for that, yes? I tried that a few times and was never happy with the results but I might have been expecting too much since I drink Paulaner and Hacker-Pschorr by the gallon.
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Aug 21, 2014 15:44
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This may seem like an odd request, but I need to track down an issue I have been having with my hoppy beers. I'm not sure if the issue is my recipe formulation or somewhere in my process, so I'd like to brew a kit that others have had good results from. And just so the "good results" can be baselined, I think I'll brew a kit that is intended as a clone of a beer I have had before or that I can get relatively easily. SO... please recommend to me:
If no other option presents itself, I may just decide to fall back to NB's Plinian Legacy: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/recipe-kits/all-grain-kits/the-plinian-legacy-all-grain-recipe-kit.html
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Aug 21, 2014 16:58
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That recipe kit is worth the hops alone, pretty good deal.
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Aug 21, 2014 17:32
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I've heard that Pliny clones are pretty easy to get right, so if you can easily get Pliny to compare against (jealous), that'd be my suggestion. Otherwise, SNPA or Stone Enjoy By would be good choices.
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Aug 21, 2014 17:42
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Jo3sh posted:This may seem like an odd request, but I need to track down an issue I have been having with my hoppy beers. I'm not sure if the issue is my recipe formulation or somewhere in my process, so I'd like to brew a kit that others have had good results from. And just so the "good results" can be baselined, I think I'll brew a kit that is intended as a clone of a beer I have had before or that I can get relatively easily. What are you trying to narrow down? Minimal hop character in your beer or something?
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Aug 22, 2014 02:45
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wildfire1 posted:What are you trying to narrow down? Minimal hop character in your beer or something? When I can get hops in my beer, it requires larger additions than I think it ought to, and they age out in weeks, not months. I had a nice IPA that I was drinking nicely in July. It wasn't world-class, or anything, but at least it was bitter. Then I went away for two weeks. Not it's significantly less bitter, and a lot of the hop bitterness, flavor, and aroma has turned into a sort of mushy mess that's wrapped up in this weird caramel flavor. It's really starting to piss me off.
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Aug 22, 2014 02:54
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Jo3sh posted:When I can get hops in my beer, it requires larger additions than I think it ought to, and they age out in weeks, not months. I had a nice IPA that I was drinking nicely in July. It wasn't world-class, or anything, but at least it was bitter. Then I went away for two weeks. Not it's significantly less bitter, and a lot of the hop bitterness, flavor, and aroma has turned into a sort of mushy mess that's wrapped up in this weird caramel flavor. It's really starting to piss me off. Flavour and aroma turning to caramel means oxidation, so it sounds like an oxygen uptake problem to me. You probably know that already though.
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Aug 22, 2014 03:09
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I agree it sounds like that, but I'm trying to eliminate variables here.
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Aug 22, 2014 03:14
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I have 10 gallons of a DIPA that was kegged about 4 weeks ago, it was awesome for 3.5 weeks and now the aroma/flavor is starting to fall off the cliff really fast. I feel your pain brother. I have resolved myself to just trying to choke it down as fast as I can so I can enjoy it while it's still very good. I really don't know how some of the more commercial breweries get shelf lives so long in comparison.
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Aug 22, 2014 12:53
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Jo3sh posted:I agree it sounds like that, but I'm trying to eliminate variables here. Have all your hops been coming from one source? Maybe they've been old or not sealed well. I have yet to have that problem, though on the aroma front, I dry hop everything that I want to taste hoppy which would certainly help there.
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Aug 22, 2014 15:05
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edit: Claimed! This is a longshot but if any fellow goon (or goon friend/family) around Eastern PA needs some all grain gear for free, I've got you covered. I have a converted Gott cooler and a large kettle with a propane burner I'm willing to part with if it can help someone get started with all grain. To complete the setup I do have an immersion chiller as well but I'd want to sell that as I still have partial use for it. EnsignVix fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Aug 22, 2014 |
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Aug 22, 2014 15:35
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rockcity posted:Have all your hops been coming from one source? Maybe they've been old or not sealed well. I buy pellets in bulk from Freshops. I leave them in their sealed pouches until I need to open them, and I reseal them in Foodsaver bags (vacuum and heatsealed). Last hoppy batch, though, I bought some of the hops from the FLHBS - whole leaf in sealed HopUnion bags.
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Aug 22, 2014 16:30
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Jo3sh posted:I buy pellets in bulk from Freshops. I leave them in their sealed pouches until I need to open them, and I reseal them in Foodsaver bags (vacuum and heatsealed). Last hoppy batch, though, I bought some of the hops from the FLHBS - whole leaf in sealed HopUnion bags. Do you store the hops in a freezer?
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Aug 22, 2014 19:01
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Yes, always frozen unless I am using them.
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Aug 22, 2014 19:29
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So my toasted oat milk stout has been fermenting away in the primary on a blowoff tube at 64 degrees for 13 days now and I was ready to move it over to a secondary for a bit to settle out, do a cold crash and then keg. I sanitized my secondary and went to take a gravity reading beforehand just to check on it and clearly my starter wasn't big enough to handle the task as it's sitting at 1.030 right now, down from 1.068 OG. Brewtoad had it calculated to finish at 1.018 with the Wyeast Irish Ale yeast that I used. I've yet to not have a beer finish close to where it was supposed to and I'm not quite sure what I should do at this point. Do I raise the temp in my fermentation freezer to see if that can kickstart the yeast cake into doing some extra work? Do I pitch another smack pack to try to finish the job? I'm a bit worried that another smack pack would dry it out more than I'd like it too, but I have no experience in this so I'm really not sure.
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Aug 22, 2014 20:11
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How much lactose did you use? My uninformed guess is that you actually are finished, but that Brewtoad goofed up the FG calculation, not taking the unfermentability of the lactose into account.
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Aug 22, 2014 20:29
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Jo3sh posted:How much lactose did you use? My uninformed guess is that you actually are finished, but that Brewtoad goofed up the FG calculation, not taking the unfermentability of the lactose into account. 1 lb. I wouldn't think 1 lb of it in 5.5 gallons or so would keep it that high though. I did move it over from a blowoff tube to an airlock and there does still seem to be some activity though. Maybe I just need to give it another week. If I give it more time, should I keep it at the 66 degrees or should I maybe bump it up a bit to try to get it to clean things up some more.
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Aug 22, 2014 20:39
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That ought to bump your FG by about 5 or 6 points, meaning (if my assumption about BrewToad not accounting for it correctly) that you would not be expecting 1.018 but more like 1.024. So you're still a little higher than planned, but not way out of bounds or anything. Leaving it a few more days at your current ferment temp or maybe just a few degrees warmer before cold-crashing seems like a good bet; if it hasn't changed after that, I'd just package it as normal.
Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Aug 22, 2014 |
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Aug 22, 2014 21:42
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Jo3sh posted:That ought to bump your FG by about 5 or 6 points, meaning (if my assumption about BrewToad not accounting for it correctly) that you would not be expecting 1.018 but more like 1.024. So you're still a little higher than planned, but not way out of bounds or anything. Leaving it a few more days at your current ferment temp or maybe just a few degrees warmer before cold-crashing seems like a good bet; if it hasn't changed after that, I'd just package it as normal. I have to imagine they'd know how to sort out unfermentables when calculating the FG, but I could be wrong. I did some digging around and other people who've been a bit shy did raise the temp a bit and gave the yeast a gentle stir, so I bumped it up to 72 degrees and used the back end of my long spoon to get down in there and gave it a few light swirls. I'll check it again on Monday to see if things moved at all. Either way, it tasted pretty solid, just a touch sweeter than I was hoping for.
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Aug 22, 2014 22:00
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rockcity posted:I have to imagine they'd know how to sort out unfermentables when calculating the FG, but I could be wrong. Actually, I just did a quick test. I threw together a dumb, basic recipe (10# 2-row, 1# dextrose, some hops, and some yeast). It showed a projected FG of 1.015. Then I swapped out the dextrose for lactose - FG 1.014. So their calculator is busted. If anyone cares: https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/testing-something
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Aug 22, 2014 22:46
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pugnax posted:Yeah, that was the idea actually! Interesting to do it as a starter vs from the runnings though. I managed to finally find some Yeast Bay strains in Australia, and they are retardedly fresh. Literally less than a month old. So I got myself a couple vials of Conan from Heady Topper, and I am gonna use each vial as individual strains. Freeze one, keep one live kind of thing, but one will be used in a session IPA and the other in a heady clone. But seriously small beers fuckin own. The patersbier I had recently was just amazing. Light phenolic belgian yeast character, with some slight notes of saaz hops and a very subtle malt sweetness from Dingemans' Pilsner malt. But I want to try do a small session IPA much like the All Day IPA (founders??) one but less alcoholic.
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Aug 23, 2014 10:18
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nullfunction posted:Could I get your opinions on this recipe? My brew buddy and I are looking to do this labor day weekend. Dump the choc rye and switch to caramel rye. Sixpoint's Righteous uses a bit of it and it's not something I think suits a Rye IPA at all. Personal opinion: 68% Base 15% malted rye 6% flaked rye 11% crystal/caramel rye. Hops - Ella if you can get them, a huge steep for 30 mins on about 50 IBU of a spicy hop. Personal preference in a rye beer is Ella (Aussie hop) which works fantastically well with Rye. Anything with a decent spice character will do, preferably leaf hops if possible. That's my Rye IPA recipe anyway. Personal and friend's opinion is that anything under 20% total rye isn't a rye beer, and until that point you won't really taste a whole lot.
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Aug 23, 2014 11:10
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McSpergin posted:I managed to finally find some Yeast Bay strains in Australia How did you manage that? There is a few strains I'd be interested in. Flea Bargain fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Aug 23, 2014 |
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Aug 23, 2014 12:37
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wildfire1 posted:How did you manage that? There is a few strains I'd be interested in. They're carried by a new online store http://www.barleyman.com.au/ I did a pale ale with AU cascade, nelson sauvin and galaxy using the Vermont Ale strain and it turned out awesome.
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Aug 24, 2014 01:52
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Does anyone have a favorite solution for a poppet that keeps clogging with hop bits that doesn't involve using a hop bag? I think I might just trim the diptube a tiny bit and/or get some steel wool to fit over the opening.
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Aug 24, 2014 21:09
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Anyone ever done a short-boil extract beer before? Yesterday for the hell of it I brewed a 15-minute boil hoppy pale ale with Pilsner LME and all Dr. Rudi hops. Should be interesting.
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Aug 24, 2014 21:55
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Glottis posted:Anyone ever done a short-boil extract beer before? Yesterday for the hell of it I brewed a 15-minute boil hoppy pale ale with Pilsner LME and all Dr. Rudi hops. Should be interesting. James Spencer with Basic Brewing Radio swears by 15 minute boils. If you're looking for confirmation there you go, and if you want recipes he has a couple on his site.
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Aug 24, 2014 22:05
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Glottis posted:Anyone ever done a short-boil extract beer before? Yesterday for the hell of it I brewed a 15-minute boil hoppy pale ale with Pilsner LME and all Dr. Rudi hops. Should be interesting. I've done a good number of those; it's a great way to churn out quick pales/IPAs.
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Aug 24, 2014 22:38
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You get enough bitter character with that short of a boil? I thought the bittering magic only happened when hops are in there for at least 20min.
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Aug 25, 2014 00:38
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pugnax posted:You get enough bitter character with that short of a boil? I thought the bittering magic only happened when hops are in there for at least 20min. I've been meaning to do a short boil but always forget about them when making recipes.
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Aug 25, 2014 03:00
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The table here: http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html Suggests that you get about twice the bittering out of hops boiled for an hour compared to 15 minutes. So if you just double the amount of bittering hops you use you should be fine and dandy. 15 minutes is plenty of time to kill the bugs in the wort.
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Aug 25, 2014 03:49
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Buddies and I are taking our first foray into a tripel and the not quite finished results have been interesting. We're doing a partial mash and I'm too lazy to go get the brew book for all the ingredients, but the OG was a very hefty 1.098 with Wyeast 1214 - Belgian Abbey smack pack - the wort was easily the sweetest thing I have ever tasted (and I once ate a big heaping bowl of sugar.) We split the wort into two separate six gallon glass carboys to avoid excess blow-off and primary fermented at about 72-74 degrees. Nothing happened in either carboy for two or three days and my initial concern was that the OG was too high for our yeast, but after that initial couple days I got good action in both the carboys. I just put into secondary fermentation tonight (about 10 days in primary), strong banana smell, semi-dark color, and a gravity of 1.013. So, that puts the ABV above 11% and AA of 86%. Does anyone have experience with tripels/high OG beers to know if this is at all normal? The taste I had before putting it into secondary gave me some confidence, tasted like a tripel with an almost 'scotchy' taste...presumably from the high alcohol content. Is there anything else we can do in secondary to try and mitigate the really boozy taste? Should we be careful adding too much corn sugar during bottle conditioning? Thanks goons.
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Aug 25, 2014 04:19
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I've never done a Belgian that big, but previous barleywines I've let sit in primary for a good month or two and then secondary for another 8 months or so before bottling. Pretty sure the only thing that takes down the 'hot' boozy flavor is patience.
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Aug 25, 2014 05:07
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TracerBullet posted:SNIP Depends on whether it's a harsh solventy booze flavour or not. If it is its not going away, and is probably because you massively underpitched. Otherwise time should let it mellow, but a tripel is supposed to have a touch of warming alcohol. Flea Bargain fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Aug 25, 2014 |
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Aug 25, 2014 06:37
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