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szidev posted:The XT looks so much meaner than the i. Digging the color, too. Does PlastiDip stay well on the grille? I know a lot of people do it on wheels, but it seems better suited to stuff like grilles, fender flares, molding, etc. Here's how it looks now. Only been there for a week so far, but I also treated it with the Dip Coat (from DipYourCar.com) which is supposed to prolong the life of the application. It's only on the shiny bits here - I really liked the look of the sport mesh grill but gently caress paying ~$400 for it. The color is "Anthracite Gray" - next time around I think I'll get a darker shade, though. 
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Aug 19, 2014 00:38
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My buddy did that for some front plastic stuff on his Genesis and just used flat black, which lightened up a little bit over time and looked great. I completely forgot that it had been anything other than black, it works that well. The stuff is pretty durable, too. Last I saw his car, the plasti dip had been on well over a year, and still held up great. Small areas like that or wheels still look good and hold up to use even when done from a rattle can, provided that it's applied evenly and with several coats.
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Aug 19, 2014 01:12
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So a question for you wise folks. My girlfriend ran her 2010 Forester, non-turbo (EJ25 I think?) 14 months between oil changes and didn't check the oil once. The valvoline or whatever quicklube she went to didn't tighten the filter enough, so she was losing oil that entire time. I only realized what was going on when it started dripping onto the garage floor, checked the oil, and found it didn't hit the dipstick. Also found that the last filter put on had 6/17/13 written on it  I drained and replaced the oil on Saturday, I doubt I got more than 3 quarts out of it. I replaced her AC and accessory belts today due to shrieking, and now that it's quieter I hear a...disconcerting noise. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZByTwrRxCg I know subarus have a ton of injector noise, but I'm more concerned about the marbles-tapping type sound. Is that just me being paranoid or do I have another problem to deal with here? The car has around 70k.
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Aug 19, 2014 01:35
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Thats what makes a subaru a subaru.
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Aug 19, 2014 01:38
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She probably just took 50k off the life of the motor, because it sounds like a motor with 120k on it, but it should be fine.
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Aug 19, 2014 01:39
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Sounds like a Subaru motor to me 
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Aug 19, 2014 01:44
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daslog posted:She probably just took 50k off the life of the motor, because it sounds like a motor with 120k on it, but it should be fine. Welp, she's relieved and I'm fully aware that the car is my responsibility now. Dammit. Gives me an excuse to buy more tools though.
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Aug 19, 2014 01:52
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Boo, my 2002 failed inspection. Wheel bearing. Actually the whole hub is shot. Failure mode was EXACTLY the same as my driver's side one. There were zero outward signs of failure. No excessive noise, no play in the wheel if you grabbed it while it was off the ground and tried to wiggle it. Symptoms didn't start until I started noticing some pad knockback after heavy cornering. Apparently my wheel bearings like to be silent after failure and not manifest themselves until after the hub starts moving in and out under load. 119k on that front wheel bearing which seems to be on the high side of miles from what I'm seeing.
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Aug 19, 2014 03:19
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I've seen a wheel bearing that was so bad the rotor was rubbing on the caliper bracket. Made no noise driving. But yeah a lot of play in the hub and the handing even felt funny.
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Aug 19, 2014 04:41
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jamal posted:I've seen a wheel bearing that was so bad the rotor was rubbing on the caliper bracket. Made no noise driving. But yeah a lot of play in the hub and the handing even felt funny. That's what my driver's side wheel bearing did. Left a nice score mark on the outside of the rotor. This one isn't quite that bad yet. It took the score mark to convince the dealer the wheel bearing needing replacing. They kept insisting I was having a brake issue.
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Aug 19, 2014 05:06
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Ribsauce posted:
Which tranny? I assume this is the Aero.
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Aug 19, 2014 05:18
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bull3964 posted:Boo, my 2002 failed inspection. Wheel bearing. Actually the whole hub is shot. When I took my uprights off to drill out my ball joint retaining bolts I was really surprised to discover I could move the hubs in and out about 3mm by hand. Same as you, no outward signs of failure. No noise, no handling issues that weren't hidden by the completely shot ball joints and bad bushings on the car. That was a fun extra step I had to add to that job.
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Aug 20, 2014 01:18
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So I have a friend at work with a 2004 2.5 xt forrester. She tells me it has a low idle and low oil pressure occasionally. Does anyone else here have any ideas. She is the parts runner for the dealership I am at. She's asked all our Subaru mechanics and they basically told her to get hosed. so I am just trying to help her out, and probably punching myself in the dick in the process.
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Aug 20, 2014 01:32
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blk posted:Which tranny? I assume this is the Aero. 5 speed. Silver if that matters. It has the heated seats which I think is the only accessory "upgrade." I doubt I will sell it but I am curious what cars I could swap it out for.
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Aug 20, 2014 02:23
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SouthsideSaint posted:So I have a friend at work with a 2004 2.5 xt forrester. She tells me it has a low idle and low oil pressure occasionally. Does anyone else here have any ideas. She is the parts runner for the dealership I am at. She's asked all our Subaru mechanics and they basically told her to get hosed. so I am just trying to help her out, and probably punching myself in the dick in the process. banjo screens clogging and starving parts for oil?
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Aug 20, 2014 12:51
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My Invidia EL 1.5 header decided to break the weld where the manifold attaches to the flange below the turbo. This is on a 2005 STi with a Blouch 2.5r with supporting mods. Unfortunately I could not afford another Invidia, and I was able to grab a Tomei Expreme EL for a good price. My question is, will I need to get another tune because of a different header brand but both are equal length? I want to avoid paying for another full tune, but I will if it means not damaging my engine.
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Aug 21, 2014 00:46
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Shiv posted:My Invidia EL 1.5 header decided to break the weld where the manifold attaches to the flange below the turbo. This is on a 2005 STi with a Blouch 2.5r with supporting mods. It's a tough call without knowing exactly how much of a change to the runners there is between the brands. Your upper fuel trims may skew ever so slightly, but it shouldn't be anything drastic enough to lean out and grenade the block or anything like that; it wouldn't hurt to get in contact with your tuner to log and see if any tweaks are needed for this change. If they're reasonable, you won't be dropping coin on a full tune, as it'll take a few minutes to determine/adjust for this.
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Aug 21, 2014 07:09
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Slow is Fast posted:banjo screens clogging and starving parts for oil? IIRC there are no banjo screens in the 2004 XT. At least mine didnt have em. I'd be more worried it's a oil pickup fracturing.
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Aug 21, 2014 12:21
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Anyone one know of a rock auto header gasket that isn't just a piece of paper? The dealer ones have a nice fire ring and are multi layer. The victor reinz ones are just poop paper and I have to permacoil some header studs.
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Aug 21, 2014 16:20
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Slow is Fast posted:Anyone one know of a rock auto header gasket that isn't just a piece of paper? The dealer ones have a nice fire ring and are multi layer. The victor reinz ones are just poop paper and I have to permacoil some header studs. I thought the answer for exhaust gaskets was "OEM or Grimmspeed"?
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Aug 21, 2014 16:56
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Slow is Fast posted:Anyone one know of a rock auto header gasket that isn't just a piece of paper? The dealer ones have a nice fire ring and are multi layer. The victor reinz ones are just poop paper and I have to permacoil some header studs. It looks like http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2220368 is the only non-asbestos / non-paper gasket that they have listed, but you can cross-search them at vatozone/advance auto/napa/etc so you should be able to check them out in store too. GrantC posted:I thought the answer for exhaust gaskets was "OEM or Grimmspeed"? Grimmspeed's QC has been going down the drain lately. I used cometic's set for my last longblock rebuild, outfront seemed to love them. McSpatula fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Aug 21, 2014 |
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Aug 21, 2014 18:16
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I've had good luck with Grimmspeed, but maybe I'm just lucky. Borrowed the Snap On ball joint tool from a fellow subie enthusiast and holy poo poo, this thing is amazing. Two minutes and pop pop, both are out without any fuss. So easy.
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Aug 21, 2014 19:48
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Slow is Fast posted:Anyone one know of a rock auto header gasket that isn't just a piece of paper? The dealer ones have a nice fire ring and are multi layer. The victor reinz ones are just poop paper and I have to permacoil some header studs. Victor Reinz makes the OEM gaskets.
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Aug 21, 2014 22:12
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Finally going to tackle that axle replacement Friday or Saturday - can I just push the strut out of the way after popping the ball joint?
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Aug 21, 2014 22:27
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^ yes The OEM gaskets for an n/a car are cheap paper (or the older ones were anyway). The turbo gaskets are MLS. So maybe the gaskets for a WRX off there would be better.
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Aug 21, 2014 23:09
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blk posted:Finally going to tackle that axle replacement Friday or Saturday - can I just push the strut out of the way after popping the ball joint? It may just be me, but i had better luck just unbolting the strut and leaving everything else attached
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Aug 22, 2014 01:12
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rotard posted:It may just be me, but i had better luck just unbolting the strut and leaving everything else attached You can also just unbolt the control arm.
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Aug 22, 2014 01:15
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So this weekend I'm putting a new center diff in my STi. How hard is it to remove the extension case and put a new center diff in? It doesn't look to hard.
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Aug 22, 2014 03:48
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It'll take some prying, but it isn't too bad. It helps to have a second set of hands.
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Aug 22, 2014 04:06
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G-Mach posted:So this weekend I'm putting a new center diff in my STi. How hard is it to remove the extension case and put a new center diff in? It doesn't look to hard. Pretty straightforward. Just have a big drip pan and lots of rags. And unplug the connector before you yank the diff out.
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Aug 22, 2014 04:36
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Thanks guys that's what it looks like on the factory service manual, but I just wanted to be sure. I have access to a lift and having two friends helping me.
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Aug 22, 2014 04:55
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End of an era. I traded in my 2002 WRX tonight on a 2015 BRZ Limited Series Blue. I was really hard letting the car go and I'm not ashamed to say I choked up a bit, but it was time. I had that thing for 13 years, but nothing lasts forever in PA and the cancer was starting in a few spots. I know if something else broke on it again, it would probably sit for months again until I got around to fixing it. Better to go to someone who will drive it for the time it has left rather than rot in my driveway in between fixing things.
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Aug 22, 2014 05:20
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bull3964 posted:End of an era. Well now you need a new avatar!
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Aug 22, 2014 06:39
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G-Mach posted:So this weekend I'm putting a new center diff in my STi. How hard is it to remove the extension case and put a new center diff in? It doesn't look to hard. Removing the linkage pin can be harder than the teardown and replacement itself. Funny little anecdote about how easy it is after you have everything off, sometimes the shaft and diff are pretty loose in the case. Loose enough to slip, fall, and break my buddy's toe while you think they're just gonna hold in there while you walk to the workbench to see what's up. 
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Aug 22, 2014 06:46
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Linux Nazi posted:Well now you need a new avatar! Well, I STILL have a WRX, just only my 2011 now.
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Aug 22, 2014 06:59
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bull3964 posted:Well, I STILL have a WRX, just only my 2011 now. Whatd they give you for the 2002?
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Aug 22, 2014 11:46
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Finally time to do an oil change on my '02 impreza. Owners manual says 4.2 quarts of 5w30, is this good to follow or should I be using something else? I'm in Canada (it's cold) and most of my trips are <5miles. Car has 240,000km (~150k miles) on it. Standard Dino oil okay, or should I be grabbing synthetic?
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Aug 22, 2014 14:20
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always be closing posted:Whatd they give you for the 2002? $4k. I'm sure I could have gotten more private party eventually if I held out long enough, but if I was going to do this, I wanted it done before winter. Last winter was not kind to the car at all. It had developed a rust spot below the fuel door where the quarter panel meets the bumper and the paint had started to bubble under the passenger mirror. The paint on the roof had developed a few cracks over this past winter, likely from the extreme temperature swings we had. I know from being under the car that the rear bumper beam really needed repainted as well as there was a good bit of surface rust. I could also see the hints of rust around the edges of the sideskirts The sad day came when I realized that the car was leaving orange spots on the driveway where it sat after a lot of rain. I knew if I kept it I would have to make the conscious decision to drive it until it just fell apart or start putting some significant money back into it. It would have been a few grand to stave off rust for a little while. I also would have wanted to get rid of the catted uppipe before too long since 120k miles means it's a ticking time bomb. The AC was busted on it and while I can cope without AC during the summer, it was really hard to keep the windows clear on the inside during the winter without it so that really needed fixed. I also don't think the starter would have lasted another winter because it's been sticking when cold for quite some time. So, my hope is that it's going to a good home that will drive the poo poo out of it for the remaining years it has left.
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Aug 22, 2014 14:24
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bull3964 posted:$4k. I'm sure I could have gotten more private party eventually if I held out long enough, but if I was going to do this, I wanted it done before winter. Last winter was not kind to the car at all. It had developed a rust spot below the fuel door where the quarter panel meets the bumper and the paint had started to bubble under the passenger mirror. The paint on the roof had developed a few cracks over this past winter, likely from the extreme temperature swings we had. I know from being under the car that the rear bumper beam really needed repainted as well as there was a good bit of surface rust. I could also see the hints of rust around the edges of the sideskirts The sad day came when I realized that the car was leaving orange spots on the driveway where it sat after a lot of rain. You did good. It served a good life. Enjoy the BRZ, and drive the ever living gently caress out of it.
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Aug 22, 2014 15:59
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Cat Terrist posted:IIRC there are no banjo screens in the 2004 XT. At least mine didnt have em. My 04 XT had banjo filters, and my TD04 was starved of oil after switching to synthetic at 86k miles. The car let me know by throwing CELs: P0011 A Camshaft Position System Performance (Bank 1) P0021 A Camshaft Position System Performance (Bank 2) Nothing else was abnormal, but I've read that rough idle can be a symptom of clogged banjo filters.
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Aug 22, 2014 16:06
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