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Anyone have recommended varnish/protective coating? I used GW purity seal, and ruined 3 models, which sent me into borderline rage. I refuse to touch any others with the stuff.
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Aug 26, 2014 11:04
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No Airbrush: I think Plasti-Kote is one of the favorites (Halford's cheap clear acrylic is another), followed by Dull Cote (get an airbrush) Airbrush: Future/Klear for the gloss or hard coat, followed by a mix of satin/matte coats by Winsor Newton (matte for some brands is the same as satin from other brands) I was thinking of asking what the favorite mix of airbrush varnishes are to replicate the effects of Dull Cote, actually - I know some folks posted their favorite blends, does anyone remember what/who they were?
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Aug 26, 2014 11:15
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I could never find Dull Cote in stock anywhere, and the rattle cans of it require expensive road freight because it's illegal to air mail aerosols, so I've just picked up some Alclad Klear Kote Flat instead. Next up, to the hardware store for the hard coat underneath, then I'm ordering myself a Badger Patriot and giving it all a test run. Speaking of the Patriot, what else do I need to get with it to be able to use it, aside from the obvious compressor?
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Aug 26, 2014 11:48
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dr_ether posted:Finished some Rackham models recently for my Hybrid collection. Really digging the aberration. I need to get my hybrid/nemesis stuff painted up. I miss the classic Rackham stuff  And krushgroove, those knights are looking sweet as hell. This thread is full of awesome stuff, but quoting everything might get a little crazy.
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Aug 26, 2014 12:15
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krushgroove posted:No Airbrush: I think Plasti-Kote is one of the favorites (Halford's cheap clear acrylic is another), followed by Dull Cote (get an airbrush) There a way to save or salvage the frosted ones? It happened to be all the missle launchers out of my tactical squads, which is a kick in the balls.
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Aug 26, 2014 12:31
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Uroboros posted:There a way to save or salvage the frosted ones? It happened to be all the missle launchers out of my tactical squads, which is a kick in the balls. Reapplying gloss coat should work IIRC. Depends on the varnish/brand so try brushing a very small amount onto a missile launcher barrel or something to test it first.
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Aug 26, 2014 12:52
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Reapplying gloss coat should work IIRC. Depends on the varnish/brand so try brushing a very small amount onto a missile launcher barrel or something to test it first. Yeah, unfortunately it's spray and adding more did nothing. Looks like it's to the simple green tank for them. A shame since I had just finished my 3 tac squads and terminator squad completely, decals and all. I sat back and was like "time for one last step....What the gently caress!!!"
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Aug 26, 2014 13:19
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Its been about 6 months since I painted anything, and my last models I wasnt happy with at all. I started work on my Malifaux 10 thunders and I've been really happy with how they are going. I still have some painting to do, touch ups, picking out some details and bases and such. Id also like to get some suggestions on what I can do to improve them.  
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Aug 26, 2014 13:23
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Drumstick posted:Its been about 6 months since I painted anything, and my last models I wasnt happy with at all. I started work on my Malifaux 10 thunders and I've been really happy with how they are going. I still have some painting to do, touch ups, picking out some details and bases and such. Id also like to get some suggestions on what I can do to improve them. These are cool models.
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Aug 26, 2014 13:28
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Uroboros posted:Yeah, unfortunately it's spray and adding more did nothing. Looks like it's to the simple green tank for them. A shame since I had just finished my 3 tac squads and terminator squad completely, decals and all. I sat back and was like "time for one last step....What the gently caress!!!" I don't mean adding more from the spray can. I mean if you brush on some gloss varnish it might be able to remove the clouding from the skunked spray.
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Aug 26, 2014 14:10
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I will definitely see to checking out some varnishes and floor coats--I'm a little cagey about going the spray route and would generally prefer something I can apply via brush, at least initially. For Bones figures moving forward I'll take to the brush and dish soap to make sure they're in good working order; I'd tried out the boiling water & ice water method for fixing a couple bendy weapons last night and it worked very well, so that's encouraging. Last night after posting and feedback on Mr. Barbarian's shiny sheen, after the wash had dried I went back with some brush-on anti-shine matte and applied two coats to any flesh & leather to see if I could tone down the luster of his mighty thews. I kind of figured that it would be OK for the metal bits to keep some shine. It's embarrassing to think, but even as simple as this guy is he's still probably the best results I've had with a mini--so I want to work on him some more with finishing touches before he gets sealed up!   Having a hard time getting the full model in focus when taking shots, but hopefully this isn't too blurry. These are after the tones settled and he's had some anti-shine; I also did a bit of dry-brushing on the base to try and make the stone look better and then felt a little goofy and mixed some red gore with gunk and a small drop of red tone to add a little red haze along the blade of his axe; it's nowhere near the technical paints or anything but I think it turned out alright. Mostly after stepping away from him and coming back, I noticed details that I missed as far as materials--his right leg should have metal on his calf between the knee cap and foot since that's actually a plate there, there's leather hinging under the chain hanging from his belt, that sort of jazz. I am also thinking now that it would help add more character to do a bronze or gold on the head of his axe before the blade, ditto the raised part of his left shoulder-pad which is a separate piece at the top. Since highlighting and finishing work were never really things I did before, I would certainly appreciate any suggestions for this guy; I feel like he could use some dry-brushing as well but I'm not sure what or where.
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Aug 26, 2014 15:17
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Uroboros posted:Anyone have recommended varnish/protective coating? I used GW purity seal, and ruined 3 models, which sent me into borderline rage. I refuse to touch any others with the stuff. I like Vallejo brush-on varnish. You have to brush it on so it takes slightly longer, but I've never heard of brush-on varnish causing problems.
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Aug 26, 2014 16:34
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Uroboros posted:Anyone have recommended varnish/protective coating? I used GW purity seal, and ruined 3 models, which sent me into borderline rage. I refuse to touch any others with the stuff. Testors. Also, those models of yours weren't ruined, they were just frosted over by bad varnish. Gloss varnish (either brush-on or spray) will eat away that crap and give you a fresh start to work with. I've fixed a few of my models this way.
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Aug 26, 2014 16:39
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Drumstick posted:Its been about 6 months since I painted anything, and my last models I wasnt happy with at all. I started work on my Malifaux 10 thunders and I've been really happy with how they are going. I still have some painting to do, touch ups, picking out some details and bases and such. Id also like to get some suggestions on what I can do to improve them. Add some more dark lining between the yellow and flesh areas, such as the monks head/scarf boundary. They sort of flow together right now.
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Aug 26, 2014 16:40
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Also we should change the thread title to "don't use purity seal"
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Aug 26, 2014 16:41
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If you happen to have a Michaels nearby and have one of their 40% off coupons, you can't go wrong with Liquitex Matte Varnish. It can be brushed on or shot through an airbrush no problem. Grab the gently caress-huge bottle and be set for life.
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Aug 26, 2014 16:44
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krushgroove posted:I've succumbed to middle/old age...after some slight struggling yesterday doing some hand brushing I've just ordered a magnifying lamp. Should help in the winter times coming! Magnifying lamps ruin my depth perception for painting. I do use it for cleaning up and assembling models sometimes though, really more of a 'oh, I see a bit of flash' and then scrape. For painting and fiddly operations I got a cheap pair of reading glasses that are overly strong and it seems to work much better for me.
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Aug 26, 2014 16:52
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JoshTheStampede posted:Add some more dark lining between the yellow and flesh areas, such as the monks head/scarf boundary. They sort of flow together right now. Thanks! I agree completely. I still need to do work on the head/goggles anyway. Flesh tones have always been a pain for me.
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Aug 26, 2014 16:58
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 This little fellow was painted almost entirely with washes.
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Aug 26, 2014 16:59
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SRM posted:Testors. Also, those models of yours weren't ruined, they were just frosted over by bad varnish. Gloss varnish (either brush-on or spray) will eat away that crap and give you a fresh start to work with. I've fixed a few of my models this way. +1 for testors. They have both spray and brush on versions.
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Aug 26, 2014 17:26
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One coat of Testors gloss followed by two of their dullcote is standard operating procedure on every metal model I paint. Love their stuff.
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Aug 26, 2014 17:27
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JoshTheStampede posted:Also we should change the thread title to "don't use purity seal" I use purity seal. Come at me.
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Aug 26, 2014 17:45
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What's the best option for finding things like styrene rods or plasticard if you don't have a hobby store near you? I know the trick regarding using yard signs for their plasticard, but I'm looking more for things like rods. I somehow doubt Home Depot/Loew's is going to have anything.
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Aug 26, 2014 19:17
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Ebay is always a good way to start. Testors dullcote users: is it the clear liquid in a glass bottle you use, or a spray can? Like so?
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Aug 26, 2014 19:32
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Yep. That's the one. Always get the bottle, especially if you have an airbrush. Remember though- that poo poo is A) toxic B) lacquer based. You'll need some mineral spirit/turpentine to water it down and remove it from your brush
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Aug 26, 2014 19:39
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I don't have an airbrush I had a bottle lying around, but guess I never used it for a reason: I don't have the thinner either.
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Aug 26, 2014 19:51
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You could try brushing it on, but I would recommend thinner for that. Wanna make sure you get thin layers.
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Aug 26, 2014 20:08
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Not a viking posted:Ebay is always a good way to start. I use the spraycan. Hasn't failed me yet.
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Aug 26, 2014 20:19
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PantsOptional posted:What's the best option for finding things like styrene rods or plasticard if you don't have a hobby store near you? I know the trick regarding using yard signs for their plasticard, but I'm looking more for things like rods. I somehow doubt Home Depot/Loew's is going to have anything. Dunno about syrene rods, but for sale signs are a pretty good source of plasticard, I've heard.
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Aug 26, 2014 20:31
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SRM posted:I use the spraycan. Hasn't failed me yet. Local painting fiend recommended humbrol no. 49, so I'll probably get that since its available in the country.
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Aug 26, 2014 20:45
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Slimnoid posted:If you happen to have a Michaels nearby and have one of their 40% off coupons, you can't go wrong with Liquitex Matte Varnish. It can be brushed on or shot through an airbrush no problem. Grab the gently caress-huge bottle and be set for life. I can second this, I basically brush on a couple of coats of Pledge w/Future Shine to act as a protective "shell" on the mini, then a coat or two of the Liquitex Matte Varnish. If it's still too shiny for my tastes for whatever reason (which sometimes happens), I then put on a coat of Vallejo's matte varnish, which kills just about any shininess dead at that point. (that's all brushwork btw, I don't have an airbrush at the moment, though I am thinking of getting one in the near future. I paint minis both for myself and my brother's armies, and so I have a bunch of DV Dark Angels/WM Khador/WM Menoth/Mordheim warbands to paint, and I want to get an airbrush to help with priming, basecoating, and varnishing. But it'll be a while yet)
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Aug 26, 2014 21:02
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Do you thin the Pledge at all? If so, with what?
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Aug 26, 2014 21:28
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  That's what Testor's Dullcote did to a pretty nice paint job of mine - I will be the first to admit that I laid it down much too thick and much too quick, and it caused that crackling effect. I use Liquitex Matte Varnish fired through an airbrush now. I wonder if I could restore the crackling by using the gloss varnish?
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Aug 26, 2014 21:33
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No harm trying gloss varnish. I have never seen that kind of varnish side effect though.rantmo posted:Do you thin the Pledge at all? If so, with what? Water, about 5:1 pledge:water BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Aug 26, 2014 |
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Aug 26, 2014 21:42
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rantmo posted:Do you thin the Pledge at all? If so, with what? I dont thin it at all through my airbrush and it works just fine.
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Aug 26, 2014 21:44
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Hey, PM /post request here. I want to make a tradgames storage megathread because I have a compulsion for hobby organization. I am going to start with miniatures storage, and I'm a KR Multicase fanboy, so I have that covered. I would like some nice goons to give me some definitive writeups for magnetized storage, the BattleFoam controversy (and an honest writeup of their product), and some DIY storage options. Thanks to anyone who feels up to it!
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Aug 26, 2014 21:46
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Darren MacLennan posted:
I realize that was a mistake, and not usually something you would want, but it actually looks pretty cool there.
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Aug 26, 2014 22:00
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LumberingTroll posted:I dont thin it at all through my airbrush and it works just fine. Good to know, but I don't have an airbrush. I do want to start looking into sealing my models though.
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Aug 26, 2014 22:07
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Darren MacLennan posted:
I think the effect makes it looks more organic, especially on the bone parts.
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Aug 26, 2014 22:39
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PantsOptional posted:What's the best option for finding things like styrene rods or plasticard if you don't have a hobby store near you? I know the trick regarding using yard signs for their plasticard, but I'm looking more for things like rods. I somehow doubt Home Depot/Loew's is going to have anything. http://www.mcmaster.com/#polystyrene/=tgavr5 Best site for any fiddly amount of plastic.
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Aug 26, 2014 22:56
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