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1gnoirents posted:If you can't pick up the motherboard by the heatsink with zero movement it's not on right (dont actually do this lol, just as a reference). The only time I've ever seen a "loose" heatsink by design is probably factory intel stuff. And even that doesn't slide. Also, keep in mind that my city usually have temperatures around 35-40oC.
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Aug 26, 2014 17:59
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program666 posted:I'm pretty sure I tightened it as much as possible, it's kind of hard to describe but essentially you can twist it fairly easily, not slide to the sides, just twist a bit, and I'm also pretty sure I did everything right. I just looked at the intel bracket only has a single screw in the center, which would allow it to twist. Didn't know your ambient was that high either which could account for those temps. If it's on properly then repasting with fancy paste will buy you low single digit degrees. I looked backed to your original post and I would almost say don't even worry about it as long as your normal loads are in the mid to low 70's. You aren't talking about a lot of voltage for 0.003 if that's going to make the difference in stability. I wouldn't leave it in a blue-screen scenario. The option with the best real results assuming all is well is 
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Aug 26, 2014 18:13
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program666 posted:Yeah I keep the voltage the lowest possible to avoid higher temps. Its normal for some heatsinks to be able to twist a little bit, usually the kind mounted by a single bar going through the middle. I wouldn't worry about that.
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Aug 26, 2014 18:28
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Don Lapre posted:Its normal for some heatsinks to be able to twist a little bit, usually the kind mounted by a single bar going through the middle. I wouldn't worry about that.
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Aug 26, 2014 18:46
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yes, that's it, it's only one bit on the center that really holds it in place, but it feels kind of weak since it's only two stripes of metal holding it in place with that bit in the center. But yeah, my rig is probably alright. I'm getting pre-build water cooling next time so I'm probably not even deliding my processor. I would be able to overclock to the highest of my processor potential just with watercooling anyway. I'll have to buy another case for that but I rather do so than deal with huge metal bricks again.
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Aug 26, 2014 19:29
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These Microcenter Z97 board & Anniversary Pentium $100 combos never cease to amaze me. I just set one up for a friend, stock cooler with stock paste, and at 1.299v and 4.5ghz it can't break 78c in Prime95 blend, in a bedroom with no air conditioner that was like 32c ambient.
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Aug 27, 2014 23:19
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I can't believe its still going on. I was told by them it was only for that weekend, then only for another week, then only for another sales cycle... pretty rad.
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Aug 28, 2014 15:35
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Zero VGS posted:These Microcenter Z97 board & Anniversary Pentium $100 combos never cease to amaze me. I just set one up for a friend, stock cooler with stock paste, and at 1.299v and 4.5ghz it can't break 78c in Prime95 blend, in a bedroom with no air conditioner that was like 32c ambient.
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Aug 28, 2014 16:18
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Crossposting from the Intel thread because it seems more appropriate here. According to the anandtech article on the new Haswell-E, quoting an ASUS rep regarding Overclockability: quote:i7-5960X at 4.4 GHz with 1.300 volts is below average If I'm reading the charts on this page correctly, at 1.3V under load the power draw is somewhere around 350W. Am I misreading something? 350W seems like an insane amount of heat to deal with. Can you do it under 25db? Can you do it with air? I'm really noise sensitive and dislike the higher noise floor on CLCs -- even if it's just psychological -- but I can see why Intel strongly suggests them for this processor. Chuu fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Aug 30, 2014 |
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Aug 30, 2014 00:23
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According to their power consumption page, they're using a wall meter on an OCZ 1250W gold rated power supply. So 315w was the system draw. Edit: Whats the best overclocking platform? I have a 920 and the most CpU intensive things I do are emulation, Rift, and maybe video conversions once a week. I can OC to like 3.2ghz on my 920, but it still is a limiting factor for my PC. I have a Thermal Take Water 2.0 AIO unit for cooling. I plan on selling my old hardware to help cover the cost of the upgrade to a new platform. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Aug 31, 2014 |
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Aug 30, 2014 01:36
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Forgot I had that last post in here...
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Aug 31, 2014 08:34
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What's with the OP hate for DIY water? I've had hoseclamps in my cases (and sitting on chunks of styrofoam) since 2009. It seems strange using cost to deter people from something when the target audience is largely comprised of people that both want to tinker and seem to like spending too much money. A large portion is also a one time cost. Rads, pumps, and fittings work regardless of platform. A good CPU block will release updated holddown plates for a couple bucks for any major socket changes. Hell, I just finished cutting my own backplate out of acrylic to move one of my blocks forward (because I'm a cheap rear end in a top hat). The only piece that's really holding money over a fire is a video card specific block. It also lets you do dumbshit like voltage regulators on water(A realm I've never went in to). Plus the whole looks thing. Prebuilt loops look like garbage. I demand a re-write. :pitchfork:
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Aug 31, 2014 09:44
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Gibbo posted:A large portion is also a one time cost. Rads, pumps, and fittings work regardless of platform. A good CPU block will release updated holddown plates for a couple bucks for any major socket changes. Hell, I just finished cutting my own backplate out of acrylic to move one of my blocks forward (because I'm a cheap rear end in a top hat). I have to agree, I spent a bit on DIY water over 10 years ago, and since then the only costs were pointless upgrades for tinkering, new GPU block, and a new mounting plate for the CPU cooler. Only thing which is really expensive were the GPU blocks but I am told there are now modular GPU blocks which only require a new backplate for new GPUs which would also be cheap.
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Aug 31, 2014 14:10
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Regarding the temperature talk on the previous page: running my 4790k at completely stock speed/voltages, I reach ~90 deg in prime95 and ~70deg in occt (the first tab, not the 'linpack' one). This is using a Gelid Tranquilo, which I believe should perform similarly to a Hyper 212. Doesn't that seem high, considering that A. I'm not using the stock cooler and that B. this seems to leave no room for overclocking?
High Protein fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Aug 31, 2014 |
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Aug 31, 2014 14:18
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I only did custom water once, for an Athlon MP build. I am not qualified. You want to do it, swell. But don't ask me/here. Other than you and Veedubfreak, nobody here can answer questions from experience.
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Aug 31, 2014 14:40
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The only appeal open water cooling had for me was for gpus , and that appeal was pretty much removed by the brackets. I am the first to admit they aren't as good as water blocks but at that point it's about cost. Little heatsinks on the vrms and a bracket ran me about $45 all said and done. Now if I had two cards again the cost could start getting comparable depending on the CLC you choose. Three cards for sure SlayVus posted:According to their power consumption page, they're using a wall meter on an OCZ 1250W gold rated power supply. So 315w was the system draw. Either a 4690k or 4790k depending on budget. I happen to have that same aio on my cpu, would put that right in the "okay" category. It works for me because it's sitting on a delidded 4670k and I'm voltage bound right now though so sometimes moderate is appropriate High Protein posted:Regarding the temperature talk on the previous page: running my 4790k at completely stock speed/voltages, I reach ~90 deg in prime95 and ~70deg in occt (the first tab, not the 'linpack' one). This is using a Gelid Tranquilo, which I believe should perform similarly to a Hyper 212. Doesn't that seem high, considering that A. I'm not using the stock cooler and that B. this seems to leave no room for overclocking? I'm not familiar with the cooler. It's a bit high for comfort at stock , however its important to know what voltage it's running at the higher temps to figure out
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Aug 31, 2014 14:56
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1gnoirents posted:I'm not familiar with the cooler. It's a bit high for comfort at stock , however its important to know what voltage it's running at the higher temps to figure out According to CPU-Z, voltage pegs out at 1.129v.
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Aug 31, 2014 15:01
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High Protein posted:Regarding the temperature talk on the previous page: running my 4790k at completely stock speed/voltages, I reach ~90 deg in prime ~95 and ~70deg in occt (the first tab, not the 'linpack' one). This is using a Gelid Tranquilo, which I believe should perform similarly to a Hyper 212. Doesn't that seem high, considering that A. I'm not using the stock cooler and that B. this seems to leave no room for overclocking? If these temperatures are correct then your processor seems to have already gone over the maximum allowed safe operating temperature. Check to see if any software or BIOS settings are enabled that automatically overclock your processor and disable them if so. Is there anything obstructing both the heatsink and airflow in your computer case? Such as dust and wiring? Is your heatsink properly seated and its fan functioning correctly? Did you correctly apply the thermal paste? Only a pea sized amount should be applied on the center of the CPU. Placing the heatsink on top and installing it should automatically spread it out evenly for you. Titor fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Aug 31, 2014 |
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Aug 31, 2014 15:15
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High Protein posted:According to CPU-Z, voltage pegs out at 1.129v. Temperature is an issue then. That's pretty good/very good voltage for those speeds though, so at least once you're temps are fixed you'll have excellent temperature overclocking headroom. Since we're talking synthetics (although not linpack, don't even run that right now ) I'm assuming you're in the 70's or so for general use so I wouldn't worry about actual damage but basically what titor said about the heatsink is what I'd try first .
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Aug 31, 2014 15:29
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Titor posted:If these temperatures are correct then your processor seems to have already gone over the maximum allowed safe operating temperature. Check to see if any software or BIOS settings are enabled that automatically overclock your processor and disable them if so. I reapplied the thermal paste (AS5) 3 times using various methods, doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Everything in the bios is stock, I also disabled the multicore enhancement. Looking around it seems my might be a bit high, but not 'forgot to hook up the fan' high. EDIT: Also looking at the bios voltage settings, if I take if off auto and set it to use an offset of the smallest amount, 0.0001v or something, I actually end up with a higher vcore than leaving everything at auto. Does this mean the bios is undervolting the cpu by default? EDIT2: I can set the voltage offset to -0.08 to end up at about the 'auto' setting :S High Protein fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Aug 31, 2014 |
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Aug 31, 2014 15:29
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Now I tried the 'Adaptive' voltage mode, and it just doesn't seem to work. You're supposed to enter voltage the CPU uses under load; I enter 1.15v, it still jumps to 1.21v. Additionally, enabling/disabling the 'Asus Multicore Enhancement' doesn't seem to do anything, I gather it's supposed to apply the max turbo boost frequency to all cores instead of just one, but it doesn't seem to change anything. I'm starting to get the feeling this bios is a bit buggy.
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Aug 31, 2014 18:03
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High Protein posted:Now I tried the 'Adaptive' voltage mode, and it just doesn't seem to work. You're supposed to enter voltage the CPU uses under load; I enter 1.15v, it still jumps to 1.21v. What motherboard is it?
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Sep 1, 2014 01:04
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1gnoirents posted:What motherboard is it? Z97M Plus. Reloading bios defaults fixed the multicore enhancement, however the adaptive voltage setting plain doesn't seem to work.
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Sep 1, 2014 19:23
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I've a Corsair 650D case and am looking to turn it positive pressure. There's fan stacking, and while it doesn't increase airflow, it increases maximum pressure the stack can produce over a single fan. Right now I've the factory set up of a 200mm fan in the front and one on the top of the case (altho I removed that grid in the front, mostly due to the noise). So what I'd like to do is to remove the top fan and stack it on the front one. Would that make sense and cool things more?
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Sep 3, 2014 14:42
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Combat Pretzel posted:I've a Corsair 650D case and am looking to turn it positive pressure. There's fan stacking, and while it doesn't increase airflow, it increases maximum pressure the stack can produce over a single fan. Right now I've the factory set up of a 200mm fan in the front and one on the top of the case (altho I removed that grid in the front, mostly due to the noise). So what I'd like to do is to remove the top fan and stack it on the front one. Would that make sense and cool things more? Are there no other fan spots? Adding another intake should make it positive pressure.
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Sep 3, 2014 14:55
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There's an exhaust for a 120x120mm fan near the CPU socket, that could be reversed, but I'm not sure if that'd make sense, expecting it to counter and slow down the airflow from the front fan. Other than that, there's nothing, short of buying a new side panel.
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Sep 3, 2014 15:38
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http://www.dx.com/p/30-120mm-steel-hole-saw-installation-kit-34201?tc=USD&gclid=CKWk9ImkxcACFShp7AodhH4Aig#.VAcpLPldUuM
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Sep 3, 2014 15:44
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Combat Pretzel posted:There's an exhaust for a 120x120mm fan near the CPU socket, that could be reversed, but I'm not sure if that'd make sense, expecting it to counter and slow down the airflow from the front fan. Other than that, there's nothing, short of buying a new side panel. According to the Corsair website, you can replace the 200mm on top with 2 140s, but someone who knows more about this will have to say whether that'll actually help the pressure
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Sep 3, 2014 16:13
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I'd buy a really buff front fan (ask Agreed what he uses on his 650D), and if that wasn't enough of a change, then I'd switch to rear exhaust with a 140mm fan and disable or remove the top fan. Comedy option: invert the top fan, make it intake. Rear exhaust optional.
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Sep 3, 2014 19:28
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I've just ordered two Megaflows from Cooler Master regardless of all that. They're cheap, apparently pretty drat silent and still have high airflow. Now that I've removed that grid in the front, I can hear the wobbling of the stock one and that annoys the heck out of me.Chuu posted:If I'm reading the charts on this page correctly, at 1.3V under load the power draw is somewhere around 350W. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Sep 3, 2014 |
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Sep 3, 2014 20:32
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Combat Pretzel posted:I've just ordered two Megaflows from Cooler Master regardless of all that. They're cheap, apparently pretty drat silent and still have high airflow. Now that I've removed that grid in the front, I can hear the wobbling of the stock one and that annoys the heck out of me. I dont know about lower voltages for higher clock rates. I'm not sure why that would be the case (either way), but the lower stock clocks are supposed to be due to TDP. I imagine there is more to it like stability across 6 cores will have a lower chance than 4 cores but from what I understand TDP is the main culprit. That being said if a 5820k doesn't get to 4.0 ghz I would call it broken
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Sep 3, 2014 21:23
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I want to overclock a G3258 and I have never overclocked before. If I want to overclock pretty hard (hopefully like 4.5~4.8) what sort of Cooler would I need? I prefer not to spend too much on a cooler if at all possible.
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Sep 4, 2014 14:30
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Folks in I think the parts megathread have gotten pretty awesome clocks with the stock cooler. I'd start with that, and if really need be get a Hyper 212 for $20-30. Definitely try the stock one first though as the grooviest thing about that chip is how fast it can go for how cheap it is.
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Sep 4, 2014 15:06
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Lord Windy posted:I want to overclock a G3258 and I have never overclocked before. 4.5 or maybe even 4.6 is very easy to do with the stock cooler, 1.299 volts, and be very stable and at safe temps. Getting the last few points would warrant a Hyper 212, but that first leap from 3.2 to 4.5 is where the chip gets it's power and value.
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Sep 4, 2014 15:54
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I'd start with the Hyper 212 just so you can get reasonable noise. The stock cooler is very loud dissipating that heat, though it can certainly do the job.
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Sep 4, 2014 20:07
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Zero VGS posted:4.5 or maybe even 4.6 is very easy to do with the stock cooler, 1.299 volts, and be very stable and at safe temps. Getting the last few points would warrant a Hyper 212, but that first leap from 3.2 to 4.5 is where the chip gets it's power and value. I guess this depends on what you consider "safe temps". Mine would hit over 83 C at 4.4 (I don't remember the exact voltage, was probably a tad over 1.2V) on the stock cooler during P95, which is already higher than I would normally find acceptable.
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Sep 4, 2014 20:08
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84 during p95 (assuming blend, but longer than 15 minutes) is not bad at all, its just close. As long as regular use is in the 60's and 70's I am personally happy. I think quality TIM is worthwhile as well. Its not a lot of money either.
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Sep 4, 2014 20:33
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GokieKS posted:I guess this depends on what you consider "safe temps". Mine would hit over 83 C at 4.4 (I don't remember the exact voltage, was probably a tad over 1.2V) on the stock cooler during P95, which is already higher than I would normally find acceptable. The "safe temps", "normally find acceptable" stuff would make more sense if this wasn't a $50 cpu with a 3 year warranty. I say crank that poo poo because you are almost certainly going to get your money's worth.
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Sep 5, 2014 05:36
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Zero VGS posted:The "safe temps", "normally find acceptable" stuff would make more sense if this wasn't a $50 cpu with a 3 year warranty. I say crank that poo poo because you are almost certainly going to get your money's worth. That's why I said "normally". However, even so, there's more to high temps than just "I might have a CPU die" (though in that case while the cost is low, the annoyance factor of having to replace it remains). More importantly, the noise and higher environment temperatures are a legitimate concern, and the main reasons I wouldn't want to run a CPU at 85C, regardless of whether it costs $500 or $50.
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Sep 6, 2014 00:57
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But you aren't, its p95. Unless I'm missing something. Nobody should 24/7 85* I dont think thats a concern
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Sep 6, 2014 07:15
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