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OjaiYoda
Nov 13, 2009

Genderfluid posted:

what are your plans for it?

well, these are all from a US tour I just did with my friends band. I went on tour with them last summer and the summer before that. Two summers ago I shot a comparable amount, and spent two semesters printing in the lab around 120 prints. I trimmed the fat, and assembled a book that I am going to self publish hopefully this winter. Its taking me so long to get anything done because I am super busy/broke in dental hygiene school right now. After that first tour book is published I am going back to do a collaborative project for last summers images with my other photographer friend who was also on tour with us last summer and this summer. THEN ill get around to doing the same thing for these. In the meantime ill be developing and scanning all of these over the next few weeks at the lab where I work.

I wish I had a minilab at my disposal. I looked on craigslist, but there is nothing in the sf bay area :(



edit*
In regards to the last pages discussion on Mamiya 6/7 all the MF that I shot this summer, last summer and the summer before was with the 6. The coolest camera in the world. so light, so portable, so light meter. A major downside is you can pick them up all day for body and kit lens for 1200, but then must spend 600 for the cooler of the only three available lenses.

OjaiYoda fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Aug 27, 2014

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Wild EEPROM
Jul 29, 2011


oh, my, god. Becky, look at her bitrate.
Was having some minor issues earlier, was hoping someone could help me figure out why.

Pentax 6x7
TTL prism
55mm SMC
No problem with the battery
Back set to 120, screw set to 120.


Before this: Was shooting some Ilford Delta 400, pretty sure I shot more than 10 exposures, but it kept winding like I hadn't; winding pressure was the same as 1-10 exposures, not like after 10 exposures when you can just keep winding without cocking the shutter. After what seems like definitely more than 10 exposures, winding pressure was the same as after 10 exposures when you're just winding the paper. No problems there afterwards.

Today: Loaded up a roll of Ektar 100. Shot a bunch, probably more than 10, but the film counter was still on 7. Shot a bunch more, absolutely more than 10 more, just to get it to the end of the roll. Shutter is definitely firing, winding is cocking it, and there is the usual amount of pressure. Still wouldn't advance the film counter. Ended up making a ghetto dark bag out of some garbage bags and a sweater, opened up the back and then wound all the film in.

What I'm wondering is, why would this happen, how can I prevent this from happening again, and whether anyone has encountered this before.

Edit 1: I just noticed, the roller on the right side (film counter side), it only turns counterclockwise about 3/4 of a turn before it stops. It will turn clockwise as much as I want though. The roller on the left side (shutter speed dial side) will turn in both directions no problems.
These:


Edit 2: It seems like the shutter really isn't firing off as often as I thought. So far I've had 4 processed rolls (40 exposures), and a total of 5 unexposed (totally blank) and 1 partially exposed (that may have been me accidentally exposing it when taking it out).
:(

Wild EEPROM fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Aug 28, 2014

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc
Sounds like CLA time for your P67.

Wild EEPROM
Jul 29, 2011


oh, my, god. Becky, look at her bitrate.
:( Anyone good who does this? Preferably in Canada

Also it seems like the shutter isn't 100%; it's not fired several times when it should have, it looks like.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

no seriously don't post
He's not in Canada, but Eric Hendrickson is pretty much THE name in Pentax CLAs.

Shrieking Muppet
Jul 16, 2006

Wild EEPROM posted:

Edit 1: I just noticed, the roller on the right side (film counter side), it only turns counterclockwise about 3/4 of a turn before it stops. It will turn clockwise as much as I want though. The roller on the left side (shutter speed dial side) will turn in both directions no problems.
These:


Edit 2: It seems like the shutter really isn't firing off as often as I thought. So far I've had 4 processed rolls (40 exposures), and a total of 5 unexposed (totally blank) and 1 partially exposed (that may have been me accidentally exposing it when taking it out).
:(

I think your first part is normal since the film is just pulled by the right roller. Regarding the shutter it might be the highest shutter speed. I had a similar problem where a lot of frames were blank, I jotted down my shutter speeds for a roll one day and found that 1/1000 and 1/500 had failed, trip to the local shop confirmed it, still waiting to hear if he can fix mine.

Sludge Tank
Jul 31, 2007

by Azathoth
Developed my first batch of 8x10's today. I have a few more still drying that look a lot more promising than the first batch (did 2 tanks of 3 sheets)

I am using the CatLabs CL81 in a 2500 tank. Loading the film into this thing is pretty tricky. I am loading it emulsion side inwards (same as mod54) but I'm not sure if this is the right way to go about that. Here you can see the scratching and uneven development mostly top two corners (bottom is vignetted because I used too much rise. This was literally the first photo I took with the camera). This is a straight scan, no adjustments. Using foma200 R09 1:50 , 10 mins.

I also seem to remember reading somewhere that foma is really easy to scratch or something? Either way as I said loading the stuff into the CL81 is really hard and it seems like it would be nearly impossible to load it in without having the edges dragging along the inside of the film guides.

Any ideas on how to get away from scratching the film, otherwise I'm just going to have to compose for a crop....

I have no facilities to set up a dark room so tray development is more or less out of the question for the moment. Even so I've been having a lot of fun playing with the 8x10.




First 8x10 scan (for SA) by Alex Gard, on Flickr

e: oh yeah and jesus christ using this 2500 tank for inversion chews through a shitload of chemicals. 2850mL to cover the sheets. I need to get the Jobo figured out to slow down my chem consumption...

deaders
Jun 14, 2002

Someone felt sorry enough for me to change my custom title.
Shame about the scratches and spots but that looks really good.

MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR

Sludge Tank posted:

Developed my first batch of 8x10's today. I have a few more still drying that look a lot more promising than the first batch (did 2 tanks of 3 sheets)

I am using the CatLabs CL81 in a 2500 tank. Loading the film into this thing is pretty tricky. I am loading it emulsion side inwards (same as mod54) but I'm not sure if this is the right way to go about that. Here you can see the scratching and uneven development mostly top two corners (bottom is vignetted because I used too much rise. This was literally the first photo I took with the camera). This is a straight scan, no adjustments. Using foma200 R09 1:50 , 10 mins.

I also seem to remember reading somewhere that foma is really easy to scratch or something? Either way as I said loading the stuff into the CL81 is really hard and it seems like it would be nearly impossible to load it in without having the edges dragging along the inside of the film guides.

Any ideas on how to get away from scratching the film, otherwise I'm just going to have to compose for a crop....

I have no facilities to set up a dark room so tray development is more or less out of the question for the moment. Even so I've been having a lot of fun playing with the 8x10.




First 8x10 scan (for SA) by Alex Gard, on Flickr

e: oh yeah and jesus christ using this 2500 tank for inversion chews through a shitload of chemicals. 2850mL to cover the sheets. I need to get the Jobo figured out to slow down my chem consumption...

This honestly looks way better than any of the 4x5 scans you've posted. I think edge effects like that are pretty normal for reel development of sheets, though you should try a less vigorous agitation scheme to see if it helps.

The long-term solution is a Jobo 3005 drum :getin: For my 4x5 I went from using a MOD54 to using Jobo 2509 reels in a 2563 tank to using a Jobo 3010. Since I got the 3010 my negatives have never been anything less than perfect.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-

MrBlandAverage posted:

The long-term solution is a Jobo 3005 drum :getin: For my 4x5 I went from using a MOD54 to using Jobo 2509 reels in a 2563 tank to using a Jobo 3010. Since I got the 3010 my negatives have never been anything less than perfect.
Holy poo poo I thought the MOD54 was kinda pricey for what it was but I just looked up the 3010 and :stare:. Sometimes I think I'm not in the right income bracket to shoot LF.

MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR

big scary monsters posted:

Holy poo poo I thought the MOD54 was kinda pricey for what it was but I just looked up the 3010 and :stare:. Sometimes I think I'm not in the right income bracket to shoot LF.

You can get deals if you're patient. I got my Jobo CPP-2 for $250 because the seller thought the heating element was broken (just needed the thermal protection switch reset) and I got my Jobo 3010 for $200 because the bottom panel was loose (it's cosmetic and was easily epoxied).

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Speaking of large format processing...

I had some problems with streaks with the mod54, but I stopped using the two inside most slots and haven't had a problem since. It sucks only doing 4 sheets a time, but I'd rather they not get hosed up.

I also have a 8x10 unicolor print drum and rotary base (like described here: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/), but the drum leaks by the lid and I don't really know how to fix it, any suggestions?

Wild EEPROM
Jul 29, 2011


oh, my, god. Becky, look at her bitrate.

Ezekiel_980 posted:

I think your first part is normal since the film is just pulled by the right roller. Regarding the shutter it might be the highest shutter speed. I had a similar problem where a lot of frames were blank, I jotted down my shutter speeds for a roll one day and found that 1/1000 and 1/500 had failed, trip to the local shop confirmed it, still waiting to hear if he can fix mine.

Even though the film is just pulled by the right side winding lever, shouldn't the right side roller roll freely to let the film roll smoothly? Right now the film would basically drag on that roller.

The shutter speed idea, that might be it. I bought the camera with the flash, and knowing that the flash sync is 1/30, and the shots that I missed may have used 1/15 or 1/30 shutter speed, I popped off the shutter speed dial and checked out the contacts. Not horrible, but not shiny. Polished them up with a sharpened popsicle stick, will see how the test roll goes.

How did the local store confirm it?

Sludge Tank
Jul 31, 2007

by Azathoth
And another. Cropped out the scratches because I was tearing my hair out trying to heal them. Pretty pleased with it although you can see the development weirdness in the sky. I really dig the contrast of this development. No post done to this.

Goop goes in brown, comes out bright green :getin:


Meander, Tasmania by Alex Gard, on Flickr

Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Aug 29, 2014

Shrieking Muppet
Jul 16, 2006

Wild EEPROM posted:

Even though the film is just pulled by the right side winding lever, shouldn't the right side roller roll freely to let the film roll smoothly? Right now the film would basically drag on that roller.

The shutter speed idea, that might be it. I bought the camera with the flash, and knowing that the flash sync is 1/30, and the shots that I missed may have used 1/15 or 1/30 shutter speed, I popped off the shutter speed dial and checked out the contacts. Not horrible, but not shiny. Polished them up with a sharpened popsicle stick, will see how the test roll goes.

How did the local store confirm it?

I'm not sure how he verified it, by the point I brought it to the repair guy I had already opened it up a bit and found the contacts clean so I knew it was beyond my repair skills.

And I misread yeah the right should be moving when the film advance lever is used. Might have to break down and mail it or bring it to someone for repairs.

*edit*

I'm trying to decide what would be a better use of my money, a light meter or the metered Pentaprism for my 6x7? its a first generation 6x7 so I'm imagining having a series of pentaprisms that will be broken or will break and be a pain to get fixed. On the other hand if i get a working one it would be pretty sweet to have aperture priority mode.

Shrieking Muppet fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Aug 29, 2014

Wild EEPROM
Jul 29, 2011


oh, my, god. Becky, look at her bitrate.
Okay something definitely is up.

I think that roller is the real reason. The camera isn't advancing the film to the next frame even though the lever works so I am guessing the roller is holding the film back and then the gearing inside the advance lever slips.

Confirmed that with a roll of ruined film; held the film, then tried to advance to the next frame, and it just slides without doing anything. Kinda like a clutch.

Would explain the brass shavings too

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004


Jurong West by alkanphel, on Flickr

Wild EEPROM
Jul 29, 2011


oh, my, god. Becky, look at her bitrate.

Ezekiel_980 posted:

I'm not sure how he verified it, by the point I brought it to the repair guy I had already opened it up a bit and found the contacts clean so I knew it was beyond my repair skills.

And I misread yeah the right should be moving when the film advance lever is used. Might have to break down and mail it or bring it to someone for repairs.

*edit*

I'm trying to decide what would be a better use of my money, a light meter or the metered Pentaprism for my 6x7? its a first generation 6x7 so I'm imagining having a series of pentaprisms that will be broken or will break and be a pain to get fixed. On the other hand if i get a working one it would be pretty sweet to have aperture priority mode.

I have a metered prism and I'd advise that you spend the money instead on the handle and then use the iphone lightmeter app.

elgarbo
Mar 26, 2013

Really need to sort out a dust removal solution... Spent about two hours just cloning out little specks and I'm pretty sure I didn't get everything.


Basement Parking by garbutto7vxg1, on Flickr

Sludge Tank
Jul 31, 2007

by Azathoth
If you wanna talk about your feelings re: dust i'm all ears

Shrieking Muppet
Jul 16, 2006

Wild EEPROM posted:

I have a metered prism and I'd advise that you spend the money instead on the handle and then use the iphone lightmeter app.

Already have the handle it was what sold me on the camera.

*edit*

and hating money

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

no seriously don't post

Ezekiel_980 posted:

I'm trying to decide what would be a better use of my money, a light meter or the metered Pentaprism for my 6x7? its a first generation 6x7 so I'm imagining having a series of pentaprisms that will be broken or will break and be a pain to get fixed. On the other hand if i get a working one it would be pretty sweet to have aperture priority mode.

Same thing happened with my 6x7. Thankfully KEH took the first defective metered prism that they sold me back, but I had to do an emergency ebay buy of a unmetered prism to be able to use the camera while KEH figured out sending me a replacement. The jury is still out on the accuracy of the meter in the KEH replacement. I generally just use the Pocket Light Meter app on my iPhone and then double check that with the camera meter.

On a 6x7, even with a working meter, you won't get AP mode. I believe that only showed up on the 67ii.

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc

Ezekiel_980 posted:

Already have the handle it was what sold me on the camera.

*edit*

and hating money

Don't get a metered prism spend that money on a 75mm, if you own a P67 and don't own a 75mm f/4.5 you are wasting your life.

bellows lugosi
Aug 9, 2003

elgarbo posted:

Really need to sort out a dust removal solution... Spent about two hours just cloning out little specks and I'm pretty sure I didn't get everything.

Rocket blower and pec pads on your negs before you scan and it should cut down on the time spent dusting a shitload.

Wild EEPROM
Jul 29, 2011


oh, my, god. Becky, look at her bitrate.
Edit: nvm i'm keeping it.

Wild EEPROM fucked around with this message at 08:21 on Sep 6, 2014

Spedman
Mar 12, 2010

Kangaroos hate Hasselblads
I know a bunch of people in here use one, but is the Mod54 a worthwhile investment?

Sludge Tank
Jul 31, 2007

by Azathoth

Spedman posted:

I know a bunch of people in here use one, but is the Mod54 a worthwhile investment?


Yes. I can't imagine doing it any other way, not that i have anyway.

Q: does changing the shutter speed on a large format lens after it is cocked damage the lens at all?

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc

Sludge Tank posted:

Yes. I can't imagine doing it any other way, not that i have anyway.

Q: does changing the shutter speed on a large format lens after it is cocked damage the lens at all?

Copal shutters no. Compur shutters, maybe. Older compur shutters used an auxiliary spring for the fastest shutter speed but I'm not sure if those were ever mounted in a LF lens.

MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR

Sludge Tank posted:

Q: does changing the shutter speed on a large format lens after it is cocked damage the lens at all?

On modern Copals probably not in most situations... but my approach is why take a risk? I trip the shutter and change the shutter speed. It only takes an extra second, and even if I've already pulled the darkslide, I just cover the lens with the darkslide.

Spedman posted:

I know a bunch of people in here use one, but is the Mod54 a worthwhile investment?

The only reason I stopped using mine is because I was getting uneven development in very evenly toned skies. It was usually only a problem when I had to increase the contrast more than usual, but it was enough that I switched to Jobo drums.


Here's a 4x5 wedding portrait.


Ben & Lianna by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

no seriously don't post
What is the little slider on P67 lenses for? The one that says "AUTO."

It looks to be a DOF preview, but is it really?

Wild EEPROM
Jul 29, 2011


oh, my, god. Becky, look at her bitrate.
Yup.

bellows lugosi
Aug 9, 2003



Too dark to see I was cutting his feet off

Geektox
Aug 1, 2012

Good people don't rip other people's arms off.
Still amazing. How was this lit?

bellows lugosi
Aug 9, 2003

Static on a TV.

bobmarleysghost
Mar 7, 2006



ansel autisms posted:

Static on a TV.

How long was the exposure? Or was it a big rear end TV (I'm imagining a small CRT TV from the 80s)

OjaiYoda
Nov 13, 2009

ansel autisms posted:



Too dark to see I was cutting his feet off

I love Hamm's

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc

OjaiYoda posted:

I love Hamm's

You are gonna do alright around here.

Ramms+ein
Nov 11, 2003
Henshin-a-go-go, baby!
This is a dumb question but when doing a long exposure with a Mamiya C330 and the speed is set to B, is the lens open for however long I hold down the shutter release button or do I have to purchase a cable release in order to do a long exposure. Thanks!

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

no seriously don't post

Ramms+ein posted:

This is a dumb question but when doing a long exposure with a Mamiya C330 and the speed is set to B, is the lens open for however long I hold down the shutter release button or do I have to purchase a cable release in order to do a long exposure. Thanks!

Usually it will work holding down the shutter OR holding the button down on a cable release. For a long exposure the cable release is what you want.

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TheJeffers
Jan 31, 2007

Ramms+ein posted:

This is a dumb question but when doing a long exposure with a Mamiya C330 and the speed is set to B, is the lens open for however long I hold down the shutter release button or do I have to purchase a cable release in order to do a long exposure. Thanks!

That's how bulb mode works on the Mamiya TLRs, yeah.

Cable releases make life a lot easier. They reduce the potential for camera shake during long exposures. They also hold the shutter open for you in B mode until you reset the release itself, which is nice. Just drop the :10bux: for one, and you're set for life.

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