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My rule for gasket surface cleaning is very similar to the rule for welding. "If there's slag, drag." If it's aluminum, magnesium, or plastic... drag the blade like a scraper instead of pushing it. If it's cast iron or steel, or some other hard metal? Go hog wild, chisel the old sealant/gasket off with the scraper blade.
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Aug 22, 2014 18:46
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Can anyone recommend me a brand of regular black chassis paint? I've been using Hammerite for a while on bare metal after removing rust and the finish always looks awful as the paint goes on so thick. I'm limited to brushing it on for the same reason. After 18 months I'm seeing signs of rust through the paint. Should I just pay out for POR-15 (which is £30 for a litre and I don't know if it can be thinned or sprayed on)? I'm in the UK and most shops have a terrible range (basically Hammerite and unbranded paints). I saw that Frost has a paint which can be thinned to work in a gun but requires primer, and they don't seem to have any primers listed on their website. I know this isn't exactly tools, but I'm guessing it's something that most of the posters in this thread will know the answer to. I'm pretty clueless on this subject. I just want to protect my suspension and brackets and stuff, damnit  .
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Aug 23, 2014 13:49
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Good paint is expensive. My personal view is that the prep work specific to POR15 is an excessive amount of faff, and I would go for some kind of epoxy paint instead. I have some Rustbuster Epoxy-Mastic 121 which I keep meaning to try out on something, it seems to do very well on comparison tests.
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Aug 23, 2014 15:36
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InitialDave posted:Good paint is expensive. My personal view is that the prep work specific to POR15 is an excessive amount of faff, and I would go for some kind of epoxy paint instead. I have some Rustbuster Epoxy-Mastic 121 which I keep meaning to try out on something, it seems to do very well on comparison tests. Epoxy based paints, fillers and adhesives are the only thing you can really and truly trust if you want a job done correctly.
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Aug 25, 2014 14:33
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Can anyone recommend me a brand of regular black chassis paint? I've been using Hammerite for a while on bare metal after removing rust and the finish always looks awful as the paint goes on so thick. I'm limited to brushing it on for the same reason. After 18 months I'm seeing signs of rust through the paint. Should I just pay out for POR-15 (which is £30 for a litre and I don't know if it can be thinned or sprayed on)?  This stuff is great for that. Doesn't need a primer and self-levels. Just do a single heavy coat. $5 a can in the States. The finish looks better if you let it cure for several days, but that's less crucial for brackets and other low-visibility items. It ends up being much more resistant to fuel and other solvents once cured, but doesn't cost a fortune like 2-part rattlecan epoxy paints.
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Aug 25, 2014 15:10
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Great! Thanks for the replies! It looks like the best option will be a 2 part epoxy, and just doing as many parts as possible at the same time to avoid waste. With the weather starting to turn, and no garage space for the car, it's looking more like a 'next summer' project already :p
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Aug 25, 2014 17:57
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I broke my aunt's hammer (tiny thing with a thin walled tube for the handle) trying to pry something with it. Any problem with Harbor Freight hammers for occasional around the house use? Since she said, "What do I need a hammer for" when I said I owed her one, it's not going to get a lot of use/abuse. Just want to make sure the head doesn't fly off when you swing it or anything.
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Aug 29, 2014 17:58
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Harbor freight hammers are great. I've got a few of the 16oz rip hammers at work. They've got a lifetime warranty too. On a related note, all the bigger drilling/singlejack/engineers/sledge whatever hammers are awesome there if you go for the wood handles.
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Aug 29, 2014 19:05
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Are there any tools at HF that are completely garbage? Almost seems like a DO NOT BUY list would be handy at this point.
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Aug 30, 2014 07:42
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Google Butt posted:Are there any tools at HF that are completely garbage? Almost seems like a DO NOT BUY list would be handy at this point. The really cheap hand tools. Like the 10 screwdrivers for $5 stuff. Also the cheap power tools are crap.
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Aug 30, 2014 08:28
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Rhyno posted:Like the 10 screwdrivers for $5 stuff. Also the cheap power tools are crap. Those screwdrivers are actually decent and the corded impact owns (the gotcha is absurd volume instead of functionality issues). The ultrasonic cleaner is awful.
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Aug 30, 2014 12:30
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I don't have experience with them, but I wouldn't trust things like electrical connectors or drill bits. Heard bad things about their zip ties, too. Basically, buy quality consumables.
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Aug 30, 2014 14:34
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Splizwarf posted:Those screwdrivers are actually decent and the corded impact owns (the gotcha is absurd volume instead of functionality issues). Lol yeah, my dad has been abusing the poo poo out of the yellow/black grip set for years and I've only seen one fail, because he ground down the tip to fit something else. I got a set for my toolbox a month ago. I'm having good luck with the $15 corded wire wheel after following AI suggestions to open it up and clean out the lovely Chinese wax and put some real grease in there.
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Aug 30, 2014 14:45
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I bought that same angle grinder and it looked like they used literal Vaseline to grease it with, and the tiniest amount possible at that. I cleaned it out and replaced it with some decent wheel bearing grease and there's a world of difference in how it sounds and feels when I turn it on now. I wouldn't be too surprised if you popped open some of the nicer brands' gearboxes and found it was the exact same unit with slightly thicker shells around them.
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Aug 30, 2014 15:33
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Splizwarf posted:Those screwdrivers are actually decent and the corded impact owns (the gotcha is absurd volume instead of functionality issues). I've broken the tips of all my Philips with the black squarish grips. And by cheap I meant the $15 cordless drill. Total price of crap.
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Aug 30, 2014 17:26
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Rhyno posted:I've broken the tips of all my Philips with the black squarish grips. The black handle ones usually turn in punches and chisels after I bung up the tips. But they were free!
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Aug 30, 2014 17:46
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Kilersquirrel posted:I bought that same angle grinder and it looked like they used literal Vaseline to grease it with, and the tiniest amount possible at that. I cleaned it out and replaced it with some decent wheel bearing grease and there's a world of difference in how it sounds and feels when I turn it on now. I wouldn't be too surprised if you popped open some of the nicer brands' gearboxes and found it was the exact same unit with slightly thicker shells around them. On that note, what do y'all use to clean out grease? Is degreaser just "pick a brand" universal?
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Aug 30, 2014 19:00
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Wasabi the J posted:On that note, what do y'all use to clean out grease? WD40 is a good degreaser and is usually on my shelf when I need to degrease something. I'd normally wipe it down with a rag then use WD40 to get the last bits off.
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Aug 30, 2014 19:13
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Rhyno posted:I've broken the tips of all my Philips with the black squarish grips. They're crap in the sense that you can hold them and stop it if you grip hard but they don't die. I bought one for $15 in 2006 because I just needed a cheap lovely drill for basic drilling and furniture assembly. Thing is still working to this year and the battery still holds a charge even after being in the rain. I finally got a real drill from bosch that is 1/2 the size and 8x the power so I threw it out.
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Aug 30, 2014 19:52
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Wasabi the J posted:On that note, what do y'all use to clean out grease? Kerosene, WD40, Paint Thinner, Gasoline if I'm in a bind and can go outdoors away from anything that might possibly think about sparking. (But I really try to avoid using it)
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Aug 30, 2014 20:15
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Simple Green is a good at cleaning crap off stuff too. I like blue colored stuff that's 'aircraft' grade and safe on aluminum.
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Aug 30, 2014 20:17
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I find the best approach with degreasing is to use something like paraffin to get the really bad stuff off, then use some degreaser proper to remove the oiliness left behind by that. My usual choice is Gunk or Muc Off.
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Aug 30, 2014 20:43
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Are the hf 3 ton jackstands worth a drat?
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Aug 30, 2014 22:18
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kmcormick9 posted:Are the hf 3 ton jackstands worth a drat?
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Aug 30, 2014 22:54
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kmcormick9 posted:Are the hf 3 ton jackstands worth a drat? For $16, when you can find them on sale? Yes. They're great for smaller jobs that don't need a lot of height.
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Aug 30, 2014 23:48
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Uthor posted:I don't have experience with them, but I wouldn't trust things like electrical connectors or drill bits. Heard bad things about their zip ties, too. Basically, buy quality consumables. Some of their drill bits are actually totally serviceable if you can hand sharpen bits on a bench grinder. A couple in a box always seem to be missing the relief behind the leading edges, but after you fix the angle, they cut totally fine. As well as anything you'll find in a big box store. e: The 12 ton jack stands rule for when you've got to maneuver yourself and a bigger bullshit under a car. They're incredibly tall and stable. The 2 ton low profile jack is also the tits if you need to get things up that high. 24" maximum lift. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Aug 31, 2014 |
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Aug 31, 2014 00:10
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Wasabi the J posted:On that note, what do y'all use to clean out grease? For the HF angle grinder-specific removal, I opened it up before I even plugged it in so all I really needed was a few Qtips. It did indeed look like dried-out vasoline or old, mushed-up beeswax. If it was spread thinner I would have used acetone/simple green/paint thinner/rubbing alcohol/whatever I grabbed first. kmcormick9 posted:Are the hf 3 ton jackstands worth a drat? I'm using them for my XJ right now and I haven't died yet. I bought two sets for $40 and have the second set underneath as backup if the first fails (along with stacked tires). I need to get taller ones for it though, they don't give you much room to operate. As a side note, I have been extremely pleased with the $100 HF Motorcycle/ATV jack. I bought it over a year ago for basic biek maintenance, but have also used it to lower and reinstall a FJ60 transmission (on rough, broken asphalt), as well as to lift up the entire engine/trans/driveline in my XJ the other day when I replaced the motor mounts. It's been great for motorcycles, also  It looks pretty janky but it's solid.
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Aug 31, 2014 02:22
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Google Butt posted:Are there any tools at HF that are completely garbage? Almost seems like a DO NOT BUY list would be handy at this point. The angle grinder cutoff wheels have cancer warnings on them and also really suck, just get metabo/saito/dewalt/heleta consumables (your choice) and forget about it. the zip ties are incredibly brittle and I've broken the strap while trying to tighten them partially. The lovely free flashlights are very roughly machined and kinda crap, but they're free. The long-reach welding vise grip pliers are absolutely useless, there's so much play in the pivots and rivets that they mostly just flop sideways and anger you instead of clamping a workpiece. The air nibbler is a festering pile of poo poo and jams itself on a half-cut chad of steel quite frequently... leading to me setting a "Harbor Freight air nibbler shot-put" world record as well as a "most curses uttered while Harbor Freight air nibbler is still airborne" world record. Don't waste your money. One of their angle grinders tried to take a chunk out of my face by firing a cooling fan blade out of the vents at me, but some people seem to like them. Don't bother with their welding wire, it's a poo poo alloy and Lincoln GMAW/FCAW wire is fairly cheap at home depot anyways. Stuff I really do like, though: The small bandsaw. Love the poo poo out of mine. The engine hoist (1 ton version, IIRC.) It lives in the yard and I heap abuse on it and it doesn't give up. The floor jacks are pretty decent. Leak down slowly but whatever. 3 and 6 ton jackstands. The 2 ton chain fall is amazing. Well worth the price. The 3/4" drive socket sets and breaker bar are worth every cent. It's pretty tough to gently caress up making a socket too far out of tolerance to grasp a nut that large I guess. The bearing separator kits are pretty decent. I've been beating on my balljoint press for years now. It can't handle being abused like an OTC or Snapon/Matco, but it also costs less than half as much and you shouldn't need to abuse it like that anyways if you know a few tricks. The red metal toolboxes are all pretty nice. The micrometers and dial indicator are nice enough and repeatable enough that I have successfully set up differential ring&pinion sets with them. Which is good enough for me. The 8 ton hydraulic wire crimper is great, the dies aren't really accurately labeled but oh well what are you gonna do. Use your best judgement. I use mine all the time to make battery/starter cables for myself and others.
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Aug 31, 2014 04:39
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kastein posted:The red metal toolboxes are all pretty nice. I am mad at the internet over this claim. I talked my incredulous friend into going to HF a couple weeks ago when he was shopping for a toolbox because the internet spoke relatively highly of it. It was disappointing as hell, even with lowered expectations. Seemed no better built than the comparable Husky cabinet. Which is, obviously, horrible.
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Aug 31, 2014 17:48
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Slugworth posted:I am mad at the internet over this claim. I talked my incredulous friend into going to HF a couple weeks ago when he was shopping for a toolbox because the internet spoke relatively highly of it. It was disappointing as hell, even with lowered expectations. Seemed no better built than the comparable Husky cabinet. Which is, obviously, horrible. Did you look at the right box?
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Aug 31, 2014 17:55
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Rhyno posted:Did you look at the right box? Yea. The super-cheap HF boxes are the usual friction-slide, thin-metal crap. The $389 44" and $799 56" chests are solid though. Ignore the $189 combo, it's crappier than my cheap Craftsman combo I have now.
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Aug 31, 2014 18:14
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Guys, what do I do to stop rust on my underbody from getting worse and worse? I mean I can get a wire brush to maybe half of it, but that won't prevent it from setting again right away, and what about the other surfaces? (Also I get scared shitless whenever a bigger amount of rust falls off, cause then I think it would be better not to touch it at all.)
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Aug 31, 2014 18:51
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SEKCobra posted:Guys, what do I do to stop rust on my underbody from getting worse and worse? I mean I can get a wire brush to maybe half of it, but that won't prevent it from setting again right away, and what about the other surfaces? Wirebrush it, then a liberal coating of spray-on or roll on ruberized undercoating/asphalt. The ruberized stuff is nice because it stays pliable and sticks well, and won't chip off. If you encapsulate the rust in whatever coating (I'm suggesting the undercoat since it's cheap, although a proper urethane coating like POR-15 or chassis saver would *technically* be better) it's starved of oxygen and voila, no more rusting. If the coating is compromised (rock chips, scraped off, etc) it'll start rusting again at which point you can touch it up and keep going.
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Aug 31, 2014 20:09
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Bought some tools for myself today. I "splurged" and got a 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar/ flex head for my truck and a 8" flex head from Northern Tool. I've not bought any tools for myself in a long time. Even if they are kinda cheap, I'm happy with them.
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Aug 31, 2014 21:47
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Bajaha posted:Wirebrush it, then a liberal coating of spray-on or roll on ruberized undercoating/asphalt. The ruberized stuff is nice because it stays pliable and sticks well, and won't chip off. If you encapsulate the rust in whatever coating (I'm suggesting the undercoat since it's cheap, although a proper urethane coating like POR-15 or chassis saver would *technically* be better) it's starved of oxygen and voila, no more rusting. If the coating is compromised (rock chips, scraped off, etc) it'll start rusting again at which point you can touch it up and keep going. I'm going to hijack this question a little. I need to do rust proofing. It's a maintenance item called upon every 1-1.5 years. If I had to guess the last one was done at the factory over 15 years ago. It calls for "Movil" sill preservative, some kind of non drying protective lubriant for boxed spaces identified by a few cyrillic characters, and on the underbody a PVC plastic material called Plastisol. It says that the job is to be done at a service station for quality reasons, yet somehow I don't think I'll find a Soviet mechanic anywhere around. Any ideas what the hell any of this stuff could be? Also it says the boxed areas should be done with a spray gun, extensions and nozzles at up to 0.4MPa. I don't know what the hell I can even use for any of this.
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Aug 31, 2014 22:19
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General_Failure posted:I'm going to hijack this question a little. Just use whichever rustproofing product you can get. Waxoyl, Dinitrol, Suvo, Pava, whatever you can get. They all make both waxy non-drying stuff for boxed spaces and tough rubbery stuff for underbody protection.
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Aug 31, 2014 22:32
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KozmoNaut posted:Just use whichever rustproofing product you can get. Waxoyl, Dinitrol, Suvo, Pava, whatever you can get. They all make both waxy non-drying stuff for boxed spaces and tough rubbery stuff for underbody protection. Good to know. I half considered shooting the boxed sections full of fishoilene because I have a can I bought years ago that I use for some jobs. It even has a picture of a Subie GL on the label. Guess I've had it a while. So, how the hell do I get it into the sections. They have access holes, but what do I use to shoot through them? If I can I'd like to avoid the Niva sill cancer.
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Aug 31, 2014 22:53
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Just did my subframe and suspension bits in por15 and I used eastwoods internal frame coat for the cavity areas of the subframe and control arms, it comes with a brass plug at the end of a long flexible nozzle that sprays it all around, so you snake it in and spray as you pull it out. It wasn't too bad on price, and got pretty good reviews, I guess I'll see how it holds up. Was really easy to apply.
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Aug 31, 2014 23:05
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PitViper posted:Yea. The super-cheap HF boxes are the usual friction-slide, thin-metal crap. The $389 44" and $799 56" chests are solid though. Ignore the $189 combo, it's crappier than my cheap Craftsman combo I have now.
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Aug 31, 2014 23:10
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Slugworth posted:It was the 44" box. It was disappointing enough that it made me wonder if there had been a recent change in production or something. Ruh roh, I was buying a 44 tomorrow. The floor model, even obviously kicked around by a bunch of customers, beats the hell out of my Craftsman box. What was disappointing about it?  I was also considering their various tabletop sheet metal tools to gin up my own side boxes and custom drawers/inserts, can anyone comment on them? I don't expect much from the throatless shear but how are the sheet brakes and so on?
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Sep 1, 2014 01:38
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