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I used to like riding old bikes as only bikes but have pretty much done a 180 on it. They are fun projects and great to learn how things work but if you want to ride then get something newer. It will always need something done to it as the miles go up (chain maintenance, brakes, services, valve adjustment) so you can still learn as you need but it won't need everything all at once just to get out of the driveway. Beside that the brakes and suspension on most bikes built before the mid to late 90's are pretty much total poo poo. The good thing is that KZ is a fairly popular bike and you should be able to get a decent bit of money depending on it's condition. Maybe tinker around with it enough to get it running (as in at least able to start, idle and rev up a bit to show that the motor isn't ready to grenade) and then flip it. You should be able to do that for no more than the cost of a can of carb cleaner and maybe a battery. Beside getting you more money selling a running bike, it will get you familiar with carbs which most beginner bikes will have.
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Aug 31, 2014 00:31
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Preoptopus posted:Would an 83 KZ 750 be a terrible idea for a first bike to someone whos entire experience riding has been on a scooter once around the block ten years ago? I ask because I just acquired one as a debt owed. Or should I just sell the bastard. Mind you it does need a little TLC to get it running again as its been sitting for two years in a shed. i dont hang with to many riders so everybody I know thinks its a death wish. BTW Im 6'1 and 150 wet.
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Aug 31, 2014 04:29
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Preoptopus posted:Would an 83 KZ 750 be a terrible idea for a first bike It came in probably half a dozen trim level, engine, and drive variants. My second bike, and first fly and ride. It never stranded me, and about the only non-routine maintenance it required was a valve cover gasket. Had a PO who was honest to a fault and an excellent caretaker. It was an absolute time capsule. Like many Kaws of the era, it seemed like too much motor for the frame and suspension. I think its power ratings were on the conservative side. It most definitely had that characteristic scream when you grabbed a fistful. It will require some effort, but of the UJM offerings for this year, I'd take another LTD F1 without hesitation, and not for sentimental reasons alone. Post a pic or two if you can. Marv Hushman fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Aug 31, 2014 |
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Aug 31, 2014 06:14
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Well so far people are saying its way too much bike to learn on. Although I can certainly appreciate and respect its power while new, Im thinking that it cant possibly still be the rocket it once was. I forgot to mention its done 31 thousand. As far as fixing it, it needs new fuel lines, maybe a new petcock on the tank and a heafty carb cleaning and fluid flushes. Other than that she seams all together. Here she is in her weathered glory. 
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Aug 31, 2014 17:56
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Well, in addition to what all the other people have said, I wanna point out that you only *think* that it needs what you've noted to be good to go. If you think it needs those things, then that's the bare minimum it will require, but there will probably be more to deal with too. I'm gonna be more realistic and say that, based on its condition, you'll need - new tires!!!! <-- important!! - carb rebuild - carb synchronization - new fuel lines - new petcock - valve adjustment - new spark plugs - new battery - new oil + filter - new coolant - new brake fluid + possibly lines - new brake pads - fork oil - a good cleaning No I am not kidding or exaggerating. Except for the petcock, that's all just catching up on normal maintenance for a 31 year old bike. If there's anything actually *wrong* with it then you've got that to deal with too. I say this as someone who rebuilt a vintage bike as his first bike, and while I found it rewarding, it was also frustrating and significantly more expensive than buying a running bike up front and once I got it back on the road I constantly needed little bits of work and tweaking and upgrades to keep going. Also the bike I rebuilt was a CL350, which by all means is a much better choice as a first bike than these old Kawasakis that were, as Marv Hushman says, significantly overpowered for their frame and brakes (pretty heavy too). The definition of a bike that can easily get you into trouble that you can't get out of.
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Aug 31, 2014 18:38
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Sagebrush posted:Well, in addition to what all the other people have said, I wanna point out that you only *think* that it needs what you've noted to be good to go. If you think it needs those things, then that's the bare minimum it will require, but there will probably be more to deal with too. I'm gonna be more realistic and say that, based on its condition, you'll need Tires for sure and yeah I figured thoes things. I wrench on cars for a living so Im not too worried except for carb rebuild which i have never done. But I think I will take them to work with me and have a guy who rides help me out. Thanks for the advice guys. If anyone would be interested I could start a project thread 
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Aug 31, 2014 19:11
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I'd love to see it! I don't have a very mechanical brain, so seeing other people do that stuff is really interesting to me.
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Aug 31, 2014 19:41
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I would ride the poo poo out of that bike. Aside from the listed items, I'd take the starter apart and examine the commutator bars for cupping and damage while you've got it in pieces for restoration, and price out what a replacement R/R and stator coil from Electrosport will run you. Kawasakis aren't as infamous as Honda for their (lack of) electrical quality but all 80s bikes have bad quality electrical components as a baseline, and you should plan on having to replace the R/R and/or the stator sooner or later. The wiring insulation always goes bad from the oil exposure and heat cycling. Just don't go nuts on the throttle while you're getting used to riding and it'll be all good, granny it for a bit. I know from AI you're not a cocky 18 year old so you're not really likely to do an endo on this thing while squidding it up in flip flops and basketball shorts stunting. Make sure to get some good practice in with emergency braking though, dual discs on the front and disc on the back is going to give you a much easier time locking them up even with the extra weight it has over the v-twin bikes. E: I forgot to add, Kawis have a different stator+R/R circuit so you can't necessarily just bodge in one from and old truck or whatever like you can with the other makes. Once it's running halfway decent, print out the electrical troubleshooting guide from Electrosport and start following the tree so you'll know right away if anything's shot but not showing yet and save yourself an unintended extra battery purchase. Carb rebuilds are basically just "replace applicable gaskets, double check piston membranes for holes/tears, and replace float valve." Easy stuff. Ronsonol lighter fluid is straight naphthalene and will dissolve varnish and gunk in moments without harming your piston membranes, and is dirt cheap to boot. This is going to be an afternoon's work for somebody who wrenches for a living. Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Sep 1, 2014 |
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Sep 1, 2014 05:30
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Sold the old CM400T to my brother in law. Now I'm down to a bike I can ride. Best thing I ever did.
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Sep 1, 2014 17:04
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SquadronROE posted:Best thing I ever did. SquadronROE posted:Best thing I ever did. SquadronROE posted:Best thing I ever did. SquadronROE posted:Best thing I ever did. For emphasis. Should be in the OP. e: punctuation
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Sep 1, 2014 19:54
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Standard beginner bikes? I'm very interested in the Suzuki TU250X but I can't find any used and don't want a new first bike. Looking for something in that older style. Also what are some good places to buy used besides dealers and craigslist?
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Sep 2, 2014 00:43
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I rebuilt a '82 KZ1000 LTD last year, and did almost everything but replacing the tires and fork seals and installing Progressive front springs myself. I'm no mechanical genius, but with the FSM and some help from KZ forums I got through it. Only special Kawi tool I needed was for doing the valve bucket shims, it's like $50 and available from Z1 Enterprises out of NY, who I can't recommend highly enough, these guys know their poo poo, I've used them on my KZ440 too. Valve adjustments are really easy, they're shim-over-bucket (at least on the 1000, not sure about the 750) so you don't have to take everything apart. The engines are pretty bulletproof, you have to work hard to kill one. Mine burns oil and needs a top-end rebuild TBH, but it still goes like hell and starts every time, no matter how long it sits. List of parts... probably carb holders and manifolds (gotta do these before anything else engine related, the bike will run like poo poo until you do, a set will cost you around $100) tires, fork seals, front springs, filters, cam cover gasket and rubber cam end covers (they tend to leak), fluids all around. Also check the chain and sprockets, I was lucky that the PO had done them not too long ago along with a battery. As for riding, these aren't dong-around bikes, if you treat them like one the bell will dong for thee. But they are distinctive in their own generic way. Love that '83 paint job BTW!
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Sep 2, 2014 01:38
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Preoptopus posted:Well so far people are saying its way too much bike to learn on. Although I can certainly appreciate and respect its power while new, Im thinking that it cant possibly still be the rocket it once was. I forgot to mention its done 31 thousand. As far as fixing it, it needs new fuel lines, maybe a new petcock on the tank and a heafty carb cleaning and fluid flushes. Other than that she seams all together. Here she is in her weathered glory. Don't ever bring a bike back to life like that unless you really know what you are doing. You'll be into that $1500 before you know it.
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Sep 2, 2014 02:07
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rizuhbull posted:Standard beginner bikes? I'm very interested in the Suzuki TU250X but I can't find any used and don't want a new first bike. Looking for something in that older style. Also what are some good places to buy used besides dealers and craigslist? The TU250X is poo poo. Almost all bikes 'in that older style' are garbage. Your best bets in that vein are a late-model variant of Moto Guzzi V7 or a Triumph Bonneville; don't be afraid of their high displacements, they're fairly tame and good bikes. I'm being brusque because 90% of the people who ask the very common question you just asked ignore that advice , buy some 30 year old Honda trash, get very disappointed and then vanish, having presumably resold or scrapped the bike and given up. The trick with Craigslist is to use Zoomthelist, Searchtempest or something else to expand your search area - and to have a lot of patience and tolerance for testing different keywords and searching through spam. It sucks, but it works. If you have a local rider board, you can try that too, but that's generally only going to be useful if you're in SoCal or similar. You can also try ADVRider's flea market but it's generally pretty lousy for beginner bike-type rides. I'm going to link this Bonneville vid in the hope that it hooks you and steers you away from hipster rubbish: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsKFsce5phw Also if you post in the 'help me buy a bike' thread with your location, goons will trawl Craigslist for you with advice.
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Sep 2, 2014 05:07
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I just bought my first bike, a GS500F, and I'd like to replace the tires it came with with Pilot Road 4s. However, the manual says to use tires of size 110/70-17 front and 130/70-17 rear, but Michelin doesn't offer these sizes exactly. The closest matches are 120/70-17 front and 150/70/17 rear. How can I determine whether these will even fit my wheels? And if they do, what will the effect be on the bike's handling?
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Sep 2, 2014 15:32
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Yeah I absolutely love the style of the TU250X but since I don't live in Europe and have to deal with interstates I'm not too keen on the 250cc engine. That's probably a better conversation for the bike buying thread though.
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Sep 2, 2014 15:56
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EkardNT posted:I just bought my first bike, a GS500F, and I'd like to replace the tires it came with with Pilot Road 4s. However, the manual says to use tires of size 110/70-17 front and 130/70-17 rear, but Michelin doesn't offer these sizes exactly. The closest matches are 120/70-17 front and 150/70/17 rear. How can I determine whether these will even fit my wheels? And if they do, what will the effect be on the bike's handling? If hyosung 250's are any guide (same frame as your bike), a 150 rear will work fine (they're used in the local 250 race series). I'd say with a 120 front you'd barely notice the difference. I could just be bullshitting though, I really don't know.
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Sep 2, 2014 19:52
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Snowdens Secret posted:The TU250X is poo poo. Almost all bikes 'in that older style' are garbage. Your best bets in that vein are a late-model variant of Moto Guzzi V7 or a Triumph Bonneville; don't be afraid of their high displacements, they're fairly tame and good bikes. I'm being brusque because 90% of the people who ask the very common question you just asked ignore that advice , buy some 30 year old Honda trash, get very disappointed and then vanish, having presumably resold or scrapped the bike and given up. SquadronROE posted:Yeah I absolutely love the style of the TU250X but since I don't live in Europe and have to deal with interstates I'm not too keen on the 250cc engine. That's probably a better conversation for the bike buying thread though. rizuhbull fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Sep 2, 2014 |
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Sep 2, 2014 22:49
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rizuhbull posted:What's wrong with the TU250X? Every professional and amatuer review I can find seems to like it. The Bonneville would actually be my first choice (and why I'm looking for a bike with a similar style) but the price, performance and apparently it's not comfortable. A liquid cooled twin or four cylinder is fine for freeway riding. An air cooled single from thirty years ago, not so much.
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Sep 2, 2014 23:25
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rizuhbull posted:What's wrong with the TU250X? Every professional and amatuer review I can find seems to like it. The Bonneville would actually be my first choice (and why I'm looking for a bike with a similar style) but the price, performance and apparently it's not comfortable. Every newbie says it'll be about a decade before they ever get on the interstate, that it's scary etc. Fact is, it is statistically safer than surface streets and you'll quickly have one (who are we kidding, many) of those situations where you'll want to get from one place in town to another, and the interstate will shave like an hour off the trip. A single cylinder 250 will be pretty out of breath at freeway speed. A twin+ will do much better. That said, I'd consider picking up a TU250 to commute 20 miles in and out of Seattle if I happened to get a job working in the city. It wouldn't replace my superhuge transcontinental touring bike, but commuting at twice the MPG would be good.
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Sep 2, 2014 23:27
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rizuhbull posted:What's wrong with the TU250X? Every professional and amatuer review I can find seems to like it. The Bonneville would actually be my first choice (and why I'm looking for a bike with a similar style) but the price, performance and apparently it's not comfortable. The issue is that the business case for a short-term ride begins to crumble out past the 4K mark where the TU sits. This is because of the midsize garage queen glut in the same price range--the very bikes you'll be competing against in the marketplace next year when you decide to upgrade (and possibly settle for getting out of an upside down arrangement). I would suggest reviewing Motorcyclist's Smart Money/Stupid Money columns for the last few years: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/tags/smart-money A fair number of the "smart" choices align with CA consensus; some don't. I think the SV was profiled prior to 2010 and listed as smart. The later Nighthawks shown on page 1 (1991-2003) would probably be more suitable for a beginner who favors standards, but a mid-aughts wee strom shouldn't be overlooked, assuming you've got the inseam. Marv Hushman fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Sep 2, 2014 |
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Sep 2, 2014 23:52
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Marv Hushman posted:The issue is that the business case for a short-term ride begins to crumble out past the 4K mark where the TU sits. This is because of the midsize garage queen glut in the same price range--the very bikes you'll be competing against in the marketplace next year when you decide to upgrade (and possibly settle for getting out of an upside down arrangement). clutchpuck posted:Every newbie says it'll be about a decade before they ever get on the interstate, that it's scary etc. Fact is, it is statistically safer than surface streets and you'll quickly have one (who are we kidding, many) of those situations where you'll want to get from one place in town to another, and the interstate will shave like an hour off the trip. Slavvy posted:A liquid cooled twin or four cylinder is fine for freeway riding. An air cooled single from thirty years ago, not so much. I'm south of Tampa. Maybe someone could pick out some promising listings and point out why just to give me an idea what to look for? http://sarasota.craigslist.org/i/motorcycles http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/i/motorcycles
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Sep 3, 2014 00:29
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rizuhbull posted:I don't understand half these words, but I think you're saying the TU is too limited even for a starter bike and that seems to be the consensus here? Essentially there is more to the bike than just the displacement. The TU250's engine is a rather old air-cooled single-cylinder design. That means it doesn't rev very high and it needs to be tuned a little more gently because of the poorer cooling. The frequently recommended Ninja 250 is a higher-revving liquid-cooled parallel twin, which produces a fair bit more power for its size. That means it's better suited to freeway speeds -- plenty of people with Ninja 250s take them on the highway two-up without any problems. Beyond the engine, the TU250 is also an old frame and suspension design. I'm not an expert on suspension, so I can't tell you how it would hold up in a race, but I own a CL350, one of the original '70s bikes that the TU250 is imitating, and will tell you that (compared to a modern bike) it's kind of like riding a bouncy castle and the brakes are terrifying. I would say that the TU250 would be fine if you really wanted something with that style, weren't interested in doing any work on the bike*, and planned to ride it more like a scooter than a motorcycle (around town and at low speeds). If you plan to do more than that, get something else. If you think you might go on the freeway, you definitely will go on the freeway, and while the TU250 might be capable of it, it won't be fun. That I know. *I say less maintenance compared to buying an authentic '70s UJM, but it will be more maintenance than many other bikes, because the engine is still a really old design. Regular valve clearance adjustments etc. rizuhbull posted:Does this affect how hot a bike runs? I'd like something cooler since like I said, I'm in Florida and it's hot as gently caress. The last thing I want is my butt on a hot bike, obviously don't matter if the engine itself is hot, I get that. Air cooled engines definitely run hotter than water-cooled engines, have looser tolerances (lower power/more maintenance) and aren't as well suited to hot climates. You probably won't notice the difference on your legs, though; the heat mostly comes off the exhaust and that's going to be more or less the same temperature regardless of the engine. Some bikes will cook your junk while with others you won't even notice; depends on the exhaust positioning. I don't know how it is for the TU250. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Sep 3, 2014 |
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Sep 3, 2014 00:47
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Sagebrush posted:Beyond the engine, the TU250 is also an old frame and suspension design. I'm not an expert on suspension, so I can't tell you how it would hold up in a race, but I own a CL350, one of the original '70s bikes that the TU250 is imitating, and will tell you that (compared to a modern bike) it's kind of like riding a bouncy castle and the brakes are terrifying.
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Sep 3, 2014 01:13
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The TU250x can struggle to maintain even 55 mph if there's any kind of uphill slope or headwind. The friend I do most of my riding with has one and we constantly have to plan our rides around avoiding any kind of highways or freeways because he's got no margin for acceleration if he needs to avoid a car or pass someone. If you're not planning on doing freeways a Grom is a better choice (and more fun to ride too).
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Sep 3, 2014 01:36
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I'm with you, I love the TU and even the SR-400, but I was forum-flogged the last time I brought it up My above comments are strictly from a cost/benefit perspective--these bikes (new) are tough to justify given their positioning as gateway drugs, particularly when babied and more capable used bikes can be had. It is sort of ironic. People whine about displacement fixation in the US and how people did just fine on a Suzuki Stinger back in the day, or how they'd ride the hell out of all the cool small displacement stuff if only it weren't restricted to JDM. Welp...here they are.
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Sep 3, 2014 02:08
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Marv Hushman posted:particularly when babied and more capable used bikes can be had.
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Sep 3, 2014 02:24
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Marv Hushman posted:It is sort of ironic. People whine about displacement fixation in the US and how people did just fine on a Suzuki Stinger back in the day, or how they'd ride the hell out of all the cool small displacement stuff if only it weren't restricted to JDM. Welp...here they are. I commuted for a season on the freeway on a 70's xl250. Y'all need to man up 
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Sep 3, 2014 02:29
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People riding new Suzuki Stingers weren't sharing the road with texter-steered Escalades. All things being equal, an air cooled engine generally has about half the horsepower of a similar-displacement liquid cooled engine. That's if they're roughly modern, which the TU250X is not. It also has bad brakes, bad suspension, bad tire choice, etc - even and especially compared to the Ninja 250 that's CA's default beginner bike. The TU250 (if for nothing else other than its tires) I wouldn't put up against a modern 250 scooter for handling, carrying capacity or most any other performance metric. Not all 250s are too slow even for a beginner bike, but the TU250 is. Marv, the SR400 essentially does not exist in the used market, and even if you find one it's not a bike you want a newbie to bang up and have to rebuild. Same goes for that similar Honda cafe thing. EkardNT, look on gsresources or some other board that's at least partly gs500 specific, I guarantee people there have attempted the tire swaps you're thinking of and there's probably a FAQ already.
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Sep 3, 2014 02:30
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Snowdens Secret posted:People riding new Suzuki Stingers weren't sharing the road with texter-steered Escalades. rizuhbull posted:The TU is a no go, ok, but then what?
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Sep 3, 2014 02:37
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Snowdens Secret posted:Your best bets in that vein are a late-model variant of Moto Guzzi V7 or a Triumph Bonneville; don't be afraid of their high displacements, they're fairly tame and good bikes.
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Sep 3, 2014 02:41
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My bad. So it looks like Bonneville or bust. How do I decide between the models? I.e. Bonneville, t100 and se? The t100 is pricier, shorter, slimmer but longer than the standard and has a larger front wheel (I think) but what does that mean when it comes to owning? What about a Kawasaki kz 750? It's a bit uglier imo but the price is attractive to me. rizuhbull fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Sep 3, 2014 |
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Sep 3, 2014 02:50
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Wasn't advocating a used SR400--this is year one as far as I know, and they're overpriced to the point of being doomed. I'll go back to my first unintelligible wall of words and make another pitch for the last gen Nighthawk, a standardesque bike with a 12-year run that I believe was unmatched by the other Japanese players. Stateside, the others trotted them out for brief periods--the Zephyr, etc., but they're commensurately more difficult to find. The Bonneville is a fine choice; however I should note that the very idea of one being dropped or newbie-mangled makes me weep, regardless of the generation or country of origin. Speaking of, do some homework. The current incarnation of Triumph produced carbureted Bonnevilles until 06, and FI thereafter. Around the same time, manufacturing switched from England to Thailand. The tanks also became a bit more...bulbous to accommodate the FI components. People seem happy with both versions, but you may have a preference. When I recently saw the new white/gold T100 up close, it took everything I had not to sign ze papers.
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Sep 3, 2014 03:53
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We need to petition Triumph to make a Bonneville 500 that's a 15% smaller than a regular Bonneville and hundred pounds lighter, that has EFI and ABS, and which is sold for 6000 dollars new, so that CA finally has something perfect to recommend all the newbies who want a retro-looking bike.
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Sep 3, 2014 04:51
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P sure it's called the duke 390.
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Sep 3, 2014 04:54
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Yeah but that's not retro-styled. Half the people coming in here specifically want something that looks like an early UJM/British twin (or just a "Cafe Racer)
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Sep 3, 2014 05:00
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rizuhbull posted:My bad. If you are buying used, it's more about what you find for the price than looking for a specific submodel. IIRC the only difference between the Bonnie, T100 and SE are paint jobs / chrome / maybe spoked wheels instead of cast anyway. Also remember that a) your first bike is not your last and it's ok for it not to be your dream bike, and b) you will inevitable at least drop or scratch it so you don't want it too pretty, lest the dropping / scratching breaks your heart. And you need to budget for (actual safety, not hipster bullshit) gear as well, so don't forget that. The KZ750 was a pretty hot number for its day, and Kawis of that vintage tended to have more engine than their suspension and brakes dealt with. A poor combo for a learner rider. Also the key terms there are 'for its day' and 'that vintage' and (as was said before, I think) if you want to ride and not wrench, you want to avoid anything beyond roughly about twenty years old. And only approach the outer bound of that if it's been obviously ridden continuously and cared for - avoid 'barn finds' or anything that's been parked for years, especially outside. You may also despise me throwing this option out there but you can always look at Harley Sportsters. They're not wonderful but they do what you need for a starter bike, they're easy to find used, they're more authentic-looking retro'ed than an old UJM. You probably don't want a cruiser so this won't be an out of the box solution but all it takes is a different seat, swapped out rear shocks and a handlebar and they're the same standard as the Bonneville / Guzzi / TU etc. All of that is easy to do, the parts are common as dirt and unless you live deep in Hipsterville you can often swap those parts with other Harley owners for free, or near to it.
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Sep 3, 2014 05:20
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Marv Hushman posted:the others trotted them out for brief periods--the Zephyr, etc., but they're commensurately more difficult to find. Everytime someone mentions the Zephyr I go all weak in the knees with desire for this: 
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Sep 3, 2014 16:38
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Sagebrush posted:Essentially there is more to the bike than just the displacement. quote:The TU250's engine is a rather old air-cooled single-cylinder design. quote:That means it doesn't rev very high and it needs to be tuned a little more gently because of the poorer cooling. The frequently recommended Ninja 250 is a higher-revving liquid-cooled parallel twin, which produces a fair bit more power for its [displacement]. That means it's better suited to freeway speeds -- plenty of people with Ninja 250s take them on the highway two-up without any problems. quote:Beyond the engine, the TU250 is also an old frame and suspension design. I'm not an expert on suspension, so I can't tell you how it would hold up in a race, but I own a CL350, one of the original '70s bikes that the TU250 is imitating, and will tell you that (compared to a modern bike) it's kind of like riding a bouncy castle and the brakes are terrifying. The suspension is cheap. So is the suspension on a EX250. Twin shocks are better in most cases than single shocks if a bike is cheap. It provides more cooling area. It provides better leaned over wheel control. It allows for a lighter swingarm. And you dont' need to care about swingarm torsional stiffness. Yes, single shocks are usually better, but not on a cheap bike. Why do you think the brakes on the TU250 are terrifying? It's got modern pad materials, a modern caliper, and modern disk material. It's a decent brake, especially given it's got 16hp. quote:I would say that the TU250 would be fine if you really wanted something with that style, weren't interested in doing any work on the bike*, and planned to ride it more like a scooter than a motorcycle (around town and at low speeds). If you plan to do more than that, get something else. If you think you might go on the freeway, you definitely will go on the freeway, and while the TU250 might be capable of it, it won't be fun. That I know. quote:*I say less maintenance compared to buying an authentic '70s UJM, but it will be more maintenance than many other bikes, because the engine is still a really old design. Regular valve clearance adjustments etc. You're taking "hey it looks like a late 60's bike" and thinking that "it must be a late 60's bike." quote:Air cooled engines definitely run hotter than water-cooled engines, have looser tolerances (lower power/more maintenance) and aren't as well suited to hot climates. You probably won't notice the difference on your legs, though; the heat mostly comes off the exhaust and that's going to be more or less the same temperature regardless of the engine. Some bikes will cook your junk while with others you won't even notice; depends on the exhaust positioning. I don't know how it is for the TU250. I have no idea how you got all of those ideas in your head. rizuhbull posted:This is what I'm worried about. I don't think I'd do much highway riding when I could just take 41 (55 is the max I believe), especially when it's the clogged-up busy season (winter), nor do longer trips in the summer that would call for the highway when it's sweltering out. That make sense? It's also just me assuming, I don't really know. maintence is also something I rather not get involved with. I'm certainly up for learning some of the basics but I'm not interested in working on a bike as a hobby, don't want to do more than i need to. You just mentioned 41, I am assuming youre in chicagoland. 16 horsepower is not enough for Chicago. I-94 can't be ridden safely without a bike capable of at least 100mph. Not that you'll go that fast, but you need excess power available to provide escape routes, and that means having some horsepower on tap when you're already doing 70mph. You need something with at least 20, ideally 40hp. (GS500, Ninja 250, 883 Sportster, etc...)
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Sep 3, 2014 17:35
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I was gonna say, whole lot of crapping on what is a retro-styled, but modern bike. The main issue with the TU is the power it makes, and not really anything else.
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Sep 3, 2014 17:49
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