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Z3n posted:Grommin' out. Haha good lord.
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Sep 6, 2014 02:31
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Slavvy posted:Haha good lord. That thing is terrifying to wheelie.
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Sep 6, 2014 06:26
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The continuing saga of my CB400T and its various connectors continues. I couldn't get the bottom carb boot bolt off because my first go at it with a 12 point wrench rounded off the corners enough that it wouldn't catch. Tried to Dremel in a slot, but quickly realized that I'd be cutting into the boot to make the slot wide enough.  OK dummy, I said, I have to take the head off anyway, I'll worry about that bolt when I can get a better angle on it. So today I made a nice wide cut horizontally across the bolt, grabbed the impact driver to try to remove the sucker, and...nothing. From the looks of it, all I've managed to do is twist the bottom of my driver heads a bit.  No idea how the gently caress this thing got on this tight. My first idea is to cut off the boot to expose the threads and get some BP Blaster or teflon down there. Any other ideas, or is that pretty much the best option at this point?
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Sep 6, 2014 21:27
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By the looks of it a good pair of vicegrips (not lovely dollar store ones, actual vise grip brand ones) would do the trick. The key is to clamp them on there tighter than you think is reasonable, then undo them and tighten by a few more turns, then clamp them on again. I've found 90% of the time the reason vicegripping doesn't work is they just aren't tight enough and end up rounding the bolt instead of gripping. Being a relatively small and, we can safely assume, weak bolt, you're much more likely to shear off the head than to successfully undo it, so I'd just go to town with the vicegrips. That way you can save your boot instead of cutting it up to get the same result. I've never seen PB blaster or CRC or any kind of thread breaking spray product to do anything one way or the other. Only violence and heat (like, blowtorch heat) do anything.
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Sep 6, 2014 22:00
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It's not pretty, but I've got some bad bolts out by cutting a small grove in the bolt head (which you already have done) and a big fuckoff flathead screwdriver (or drift). Place the screwdriver on the edge of the bolt. Position it in such a way that impact on the handle end of the screwdriver will apply pressure in a counterclockwise direction on the head of the bolt. Then rap gently a few times with a hammer on the handle of the screwdriver. This impact pressure can sometimes break the torque. I have used this to remove many stuck engine side cover bolts, you are going to have to be careful to not let the screwdriver slip out and put a hole in your carb boot. I hope I described this in a way that makes sense.
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Sep 6, 2014 22:03
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Vice grip the gently caress out of it. Clamp it on super loving hard and twist that bitch
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Sep 6, 2014 22:07
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I have two sets, which would be better for this?
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Sep 6, 2014 23:18
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those barracuda looking motherfuckers look good but all i have ever used is the vanilla ones on the right
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Sep 6, 2014 23:23
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Put those vice grips on there tight as you can, place a block of wood flush with the grips and whack that fucker with a small hand-sledge.
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Sep 6, 2014 23:32
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Use the ones with the blunt nose, needle-nose vise grips are bendier, and more likely to slip off.
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Sep 7, 2014 00:06
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Use the ones on the right, the needle nose ones will just twist off. Clamp the poo poo out of it and twist. When (not if) the bolt head shears off, get the other bolt off and the boot off, grab the shaft of the sheared bolt with the vise grips, put a torch to the block and work the bolt out.
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Sep 7, 2014 15:03
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From my own experiences working on an '80s Honda, throw down on a set of this kind of bolt extractor that will fit the fasteners on your bike. Somehow Honda managed to use metal that has the structural properties and hardness of good Parmesan cheese but instantly cold-welds to whatever material the threads it's touching is. They will save you a ton of frustration, dicking around with dremels, and having to delicately beat on vice-grips just right so that you don't accidentally break something important in the process.
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Sep 7, 2014 15:41
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Use the ones on the right, the needle nose ones will just twist off. Clamp the poo poo out of it and twist. When (not if) the bolt head shears off, get the other bolt off and the boot off, grab the shaft of the sheared bolt with the vise grips, put a torch to the block and work the bolt out. Couple of good whacks with my rubber mallet on the vise-grips did the trick, enough to see that the head moved and then I could just get it out with my wide screwdriver. The other bolts had come off fine, just this last one was being a bitch. Going to check the hole threads on this one with my Dad's tap & die set just in case. Already have a set of spare bolts ready to go. Thanks for all the good advice, CA! 
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Sep 7, 2014 17:23
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I need some help. My rear break (drum) engages but does not release for at least 2 or 3 seconds when I remove my foot from the pedal, all the while screaming like banshee. I have a 2005 hyosung gv250. What can cause this?
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Sep 8, 2014 07:14
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Grimwall posted:I need some help. My rear break (drum) engages but does not release for at least 2 or 3 seconds when I remove my foot from the pedal, all the while screaming like banshee. I have a 2005 hyosung gv250. What can cause this? The pad is sticking on release. Broken/worn/missing spring, possibly, or the pad is rusted on its pivots or bearing spots. Open it up; a broken spring will be obvious, and while it's open, you can grease the friction points (pivot bearing and the places on the face of the brake plate where the pad rides).
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Sep 8, 2014 14:40
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Grimwall posted:I need some help. My rear break (drum) engages but does not release for at least 2 or 3 seconds when I remove my foot from the pedal, all the while screaming like banshee. I have a 2005 hyosung gv250. What can cause this? it's a hyosong. That's your answer. :-) As for fixing it? You problaly just need to grease the brake drive cam. you'll need to remove the rear wheel to do this. There's a paddle shaped cam that goes between the brake shoes inside the drum. That needs to be greased.
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Sep 8, 2014 14:57
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Tanbo posted:I got this one. http://www.amazon.com/Dowco-50124-00-Guardian-WeatherAll-Motorcycle/dp/B000HS1356 Works pretty well, no complaints. I just got this in the mail and the fucker is ENORMOUS, even in the smallest size. Clearly I need to move up to a bigger bike now.
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Sep 8, 2014 21:45
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I have a dumb question. I've got a Yamaha XJ600 Seca II that I let sit for about a year and now it needs a pretty good once-over (need to change the oil and filter, drain and clean the tank and fuel lines, and maybe rebuild the carbs) but it doesn't have a center stand and the wheels aren't the type that'll allow a rear wheel stand. What's the best way to get the drat thing off the ground? We did get a motorcycle lift from harbor freight, but the way it sits lifts directly up on the exhaust pipes - would lifting it directly up potentially damage the pipes? Or is there somewhere we could position a jack stand or two underneath it to safely get it upright?
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Sep 9, 2014 00:21
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Don't lift by the exhaust. If you're dead set on using the lift (the swingarm looks like it'd accept a standard paddock stand), make a U shaped jig out of wood to sit on the lift pads and contact the frame rails instead of the exhaust. A sidestand should be acceptable to do an oil change though, lifts are for the bourgeoisie. E: If you want to get fancy, jack adaptors exist 
MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Sep 9, 2014 |
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Sep 9, 2014 00:40
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It seems I have to register my bike in California since NH wont do out of state renewal, and ZREX is apparently taken in this state  I need suggestions for a 2-7 characters A-Z 1-9 No zeroes plate. I could go with ZEEEREX, but id rather not
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Sep 9, 2014 00:43
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None of that work sounds like it requires lifting off the wheels. If you're just trying to get the bike elevated relative to a comfy chair or stool you have a variety of options mostly limited by your workspace. But lifting by your exhaust is unlikely to hurt anything, even if on many bikes it may block where you want the oil drain pan to go.ElMaligno posted:It seems I have to register my bike in California since NH wont do out of state renewal, and ZREX is apparently taken in this state ZREX XXX is one option
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Sep 9, 2014 00:43
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Snowdens Secret posted:But lifting by your exhaust is unlikely to hurt anything, even if on many bikes it may block where you want the oil drain pan to go. I disagree with this. You will bend hangers and probably dent most exhausts.
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Sep 9, 2014 05:00
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Yeah, I dont see the average exhaust holding up well to supporing a 400-600lb bike
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Sep 9, 2014 05:47
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ElMaligno posted:It seems I have to register my bike in California since NH wont do out of state renewal, and ZREX is apparently taken in this state FUPIGS
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Sep 9, 2014 08:03
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That's probably taken. Make it FUP1GS
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Sep 9, 2014 08:04
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Anyone here own a versys that I can pick your brain about?
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Sep 9, 2014 23:03
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phthalocyanine posted:I have a dumb question. A year is not that long, why do you think you need to do all of that work? Unless you have a specific reason I'd just change the oil and give her a good Italian tune up.
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Sep 10, 2014 00:22
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Quick electric question: replacing some wiring to the headlights. The original wire apparently is 16 gauge, and I've only got 14 guage on hand. I'm replacing about a 3 inch section of all 3 wires by splicing the new wire in. Is this okay, or do I need to run to the store again for 16 gauge wire?
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Sep 10, 2014 00:48
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Discomancer posted:Quick electric question: replacing some wiring to the headlights. The original wire apparently is 16 gauge, and I've only got 14 guage on hand. I'm replacing about a 3 inch section of all 3 wires by splicing the new wire in. Is this okay, or do I need to run to the store again for 16 gauge wire? Bigger wire is fine. Smaller is not. 14 gauge is bigger wire.
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Sep 10, 2014 03:20
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If I wanted to sell my GSXR750 and it has rashed stock plastics should I sell it as-is or spend the $475 on a set of chinese plastics off ebay? 2006 750 with 38k miles Flash-Tune ECU Vortex Rearsets Vortex Case Savers Yosh Exhaust Woodcraft Sliders etc. I only want like $3500 out of the thing... I think if it'll be too much of a pain in my rear end I'll drop the plate/reg/ins and mothball it for a while. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Sep 10, 2014 |
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Sep 10, 2014 04:06
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Finally Got the Tempter running superbly. Stop at gas station. Fill Tank With Premium. Add appropriate ratio of octane booster to fuel. Close Cap. Clutch in.  Cable snaps, right at the clutch lever. I JUST GREASED THE drat THING (White Lithium) Anyone ever replace one of these? I've heard you have to take parts of the clutch apart. I've looked and looked and looked and no dice. Rare Bike = Rarer Service Info. Is this something I can do in the parking lot to have a working fix or do I risk death and a ruined bike  launching it at every light and sign with no clutch?p.s: Airport sells 110 Low Lead and Turbo Blue for the experimentals flying out of it. I assume older bike/higher octane is fine, but I'm not sure about additives, is this safe to run? please help. Also, bike rental in Anaheim/LA area? Know of anything reasonable?
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Sep 10, 2014 05:28
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What have you done to the bike that requires anything other than pump gas? Unless you've rebuilt the engine to much higher than the stock compression and cammed the poo poo out of it, it should be fine with Regular 87 octane. If you're getting pinging on pump gas, your carbs and/or ignition timing need adjusting.
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Sep 10, 2014 05:37
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Yeah I think you must be misinterpreting the user's manual or something. I've never heard of anyone using octane boosters on their old stock bikes. Do what HotCanadianChick says.
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Sep 10, 2014 07:44
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Octane boosters are bullshit anyway, if you read the back carefully they take a tank from 93 to 93.1
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Sep 10, 2014 07:57
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Well, you know, maybe he found an old can of genuine tetraethyl lead. That stuff sure does what it says.
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Sep 10, 2014 08:02
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:Finally Got the Tempter running superbly. To answer the question about the thing that stranded you instead of sperging about octane booster: clutch cables are very, very easy to do. There is no internal disassembly, if you look carefully you will be able to find where the other end of the cable goes into the engine through a little lever or rod or similar. If you can't find one for your bike, you can take just the sheath to a brake and clutch shop (I don't know what these would be called in the US or what they are like) and they can put in a new cable core for you. edit: thirty second google search produces this. You can see the threaded piece with two nuts that goes on the engine end. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:16 on Sep 10, 2014 |
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Sep 10, 2014 08:13
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Slavvy posted:To answer the question about the thing that stranded you instead of sperging about octane booster: clutch cables are very, very easy to do. There is no internal disassembly, if you look carefully you will be able to find where the other end of the cable goes into the engine through a little lever or rod or similar. If you can't find one for your bike, you can take just the sheath to a brake and clutch shop (I don't know what these would be called in the US or what they are like) and they can put in a new cable core for you. Yeah, I got a few bottles of Tetraethyl Lead..what of it. Anyways, yeah, I figured it would be pretty easy but P/O said he had to have someone else do it when he was first building the bike from two parts bikes. We will see when I get home Saturday. On the bright side. No longer travelling as much for work, so BIKE RIDES EVERY DAY
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Sep 10, 2014 17:54
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Ok, update on the exhaust upgrade. Got some ear plugs in and now I'm really enjoying my decision. Added bonus of no wind noise and riding is a lot more serene (everyone get earplugs). Drivers are also noticeably more aware of my presence (people moving out of the way while filtering!). That said, now I'm having issues with some backfiring and even some stalling. This had happened before with the stock can, but I feel it's happening more often now that I've got the whole system. From what I understand it's because the engine is running a bit lean? And because its EFI I take it the only remedy is to get a remap?
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Sep 11, 2014 00:46
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I posted this in the SV650 thread, but didn't get any responses. Maybe you guys can give me some advice on suspension tech: I did my second track day on my SV at COTA last weekend, and after getting my suspension mostly set up by an on-site suspension guy, my front end doesn't have enough rebound damping. The previous owner put in Race Tech gold emulators and .90 springs along with 20wt Bel-Ray fork oil. The suspension guy thought that the previous owner's shop drilled out the damper rods too much and this was the cause of underdamping for that weight oil. He quoted me $2-300 if I provided fresh damper rods for him to fix it up. Alternatively, I can just try 30 Wt Bel-Ray fork fluid and see if that fixes the problem a little. Can I get away with this sort of hack? In addition, I don't know too much about suspension set-up other than my simple reading of Race Tech's suspension bible. If I pull the forks out, drain the old oil, and just put in fresh 30 Wt oil, will I need to reset the sag or anything else? What about the air gap/spring? Anything I should look out for since this will be my first time changing fork oil?
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Sep 11, 2014 07:07
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You drill the holes on the compression damping side only. The rebound damping is changed only by fork oil weight. If it's got crappy rebound damping then the fork oil is probably beat and needs to be changed. I'd try fresh 20w or go thicker and see how that goes. Changing the oil is easy as long as you have a way to support the front of the bike while it's taken apart. There's a chart somewhere (google should find it easily) that shows how the weight of oils is pretty arbitrary and what weights are what. The Belray stuff might be thinner than 20w from the start.
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Sep 11, 2014 14:46
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