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couldcareless posted:Wouldn't the easiest resolution to this to be just run an empty sanitizing cycle with some bleach? Yeah, that's in the cards, but that doesn't get some of the area around the door all that well so that's what I'm going to scrub the poo poo out of. I still have no idea where this came from - we don't have any mold problem with the house that we're aware of, and the inspector looked pretty well. Our bread has been molding quicker than expected, but we chalked it up to just being a bit humid in the house. THe basement has a dehumidifier running with a hose to a drain 24/7ish to keep it dry. I might have to get one for the unfinished part of the basement too but theyr'e friggen expensive.
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Sep 18, 2014 18:32
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I have left (clean) dishes for up to 5 days in a dishwasher, and never had more than a musty smell. You have some serious trouble going on if you have a mold forest growing after a few days. Also, after a year of home ownership, our biggest hassle has been repairing our dishwasher when the touchpad stopped working. Of course, that was after buying a HUD foreclosure, ripping out 3/4 of the flooring, completely redoing the upper bath, patching and painting every wall, new carpet, new entryway tile, new stair treads, patching a broken subfloor in one bedroom (hidden by the lovely laminate flooring in the ENTIRE HOUSE), and splitting the utility/laundry room in half and finishing the laundry half. Oh, and all new kitchen appliances, since the previous owner took everything not nailed down (and some things that were). On the plus side, I did get to learn how to lay and cut ceramic tile, and bought a ton of house-related tools to add to my car-repair tool collection. Do never buy foreclosures, unless you are a very handy individual, and have a month or three to fix all the hidden broken poo poo before moving in.
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Sep 18, 2014 18:33
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Touchpads die and sometimes aren't easily swappable. My last place had the 2005 era GE appliances and the stove/micro both shat out and the replacement panel ($300) for the stove was not 100% compatible and only made some of the buttons work. Meh! Samsung appliances have been great for me so far although I'm pretty sure the fridge is 1 inch too high for the new house's cabinets.
Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 18:57
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shortspecialbus posted:Yeah, that's in the cards, but that doesn't get some of the area around the door all that well so that's what I'm going to scrub the poo poo out of. I still have no idea where this came from - we don't have any mold problem with the house that we're aware of, and the inspector looked pretty well. Our bread has been molding quicker than expected, but we chalked it up to just being a bit humid in the house. THe basement has a dehumidifier running with a hose to a drain 24/7ish to keep it dry. I might have to get one for the unfinished part of the basement too but theyr'e friggen expensive. You may want to pull the spray arms and run coat hangers or whatever through them and the holes, etc. If they're clogged the sanitizing wash isn't going to be sprayed around like you expect. Don't ask me how I know.
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Sep 18, 2014 19:20
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uwaeve posted:You may want to pull the spray arms and run coat hangers or whatever through them and the holes, etc. If they're clogged the sanitizing wash isn't going to be sprayed around like you expect. PitViper posted:I have left (clean) dishes for up to 5 days in a dishwasher, and never had more than a musty smell. You have some serious trouble going on if you have a mold forest growing after a few days. I suspect something with that mold already on it got put in - possibly the tortoise's water dish or something. I've left dishes in a while as well and never seen anything like it, and the only other place I've seen that mold was under the tortoise's water dish and a bit on his stupid hay bed, so it may have come from that. Who the gently caress knows. Ripping it apart and cleaning the arms sounds like a good idea though.
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Sep 18, 2014 20:07
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Shortspecialbus said he's living 20 miles out of the city, which means he is on well water, which means his water isn't chlorinated. Stuff takes a lot longer to go moldy in city water.
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Sep 18, 2014 20:12
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Zhentar posted:Shortspecialbus said he's living 20 miles out of the city, which means he is on well water, which means his water isn't chlorinated. Stuff takes a lot longer to go moldy in city water. That could also be part of it, yeah - I haven't lived with well water before.
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Sep 18, 2014 20:20
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shortspecialbus posted:tortoise Aha. All is made clear.
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Sep 18, 2014 20:28
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shortspecialbus posted:It's more like the better part of a week. And yes something is a bit concerning about this but I have a suspicion that something moldy was put into the dishwasher. Does anyone know anything about mold that looks kind of like spanish moss but is light grey? It's all stringy and loving disgusting. You might have had mold grow on surfaces, then as it consumed whatever the gently caress it was eating it would have lifted and then fallen down draping over whatever it landed on. I haven't seen something like that since student days.
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Sep 18, 2014 21:29
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I'm looking for a little bit of affirmation and a sanity check before I move forward and make an offer on a place. My situation: I'm single, no debt, and able to buy under a VA loan. Because of my job the odds of moving jobs (and locations) are very slim, and if moved will be back in the area within 3 years. Ultimately I'm planning on living in the home for 5 years at least. I've got $30k in the bank not set aside for a rainy day, make $4900/mo before taxes ($1300 of which doesn't get taxed), and no debt. My car is paid off and I don't plan on buying another one for 3 years. Since coming back from this latest trip I've decided I wanted to buy, and have been staying at a friend's while I figure out what to do. Credit score is 680, which I'm guessing is because I haven't ever really used credit. I've been pre-approved for 210k (which is what I asked for), and I'm looking at a home for $200k. The goal is to be at or below $1300/mo when all the bills are settled, but have enough space for a roommate. Their money would go into paying more on the mortgage, and a fund for home maintenance. So what I'm looking at: $955/mo for mortgage ($200k @ 4%, which I think will end up being lower on VA) $222/mo for taxes ($2600 for a home in the area last year) $80/mo for insurance (a high-end guestimate thrown out by my real estate agent) $80/mo electric (using calc.myenergy.com for a guess) $45/mo water/sewage (average googled for the county) $50/mo internet Total: $1,432/mo. I've looked around for homes and found something I'd like to make an offer on. The $130/mo looks worth going over budget. The place I'm looking at would comfortably allow me to have a roommate (which is easy with the place I work), and that money would cover my budget and pay into principle. Ultimately I want to be able to afford eveything without one. So questions: Does this look sane? What recurring monthly costs am I missing? I won't have any moving costs, since I don't have much to move (besides a bed), but I'm planning on ~$10k appraise, change things I don't like, and furnish. Finally, is there anything I'm overlooking that is going to wreck me here? one1two2three3 fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 22:51
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I switched to Nationwide a couple months ago because their insurance for my car is much, much cheaper. They offered me even more of a discount if I switched my house insurance over as well. I did the math on my current vs. what Nationwide was offering, and it essentially was the same price for 3x the coverage. They sent out an inspector, who assured me everything was great, yadda yadda. Yesterday, I get an email saying that Nationwide is dropping coverage on Nov 3 because of "curling shingles". The pictures of said curling shingles are over the sunporch, which has no heat nor is structurally significant to the rest of the house (a previous owner added it many years ago). I called Nationwide - they're requiring an entire house re-roof OR an inspection by a "qualified roofing contractor" stating that the curling shingles don't exist, which no inspector will sign off on because the curling shingles technically DO exist. That's okay, I didn't need another car within the next 4 months to replace my literally rusting-out Pontiac that's not going to make it through another Rochester winter or dental help for my aging dog who has liver problems... Do never switch insurance providers.
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Sep 18, 2014 23:54
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daggerdragon posted:I switched to Nationwide a couple months ago because their insurance for my car is much, much cheaper. They offered me even more of a discount if I switched my house insurance over as well. I did the math on my current vs. what Nationwide was offering, and it essentially was the same price for 3x the coverage. They sent out an inspector, who assured me everything was great, yadda yadda. I was with Geico for quite a long time for my car insurance because it was a poo poo ton cheaper, although I kept my renters at American Family. When I bought the house I immediately switched everything over to State Farm. gently caress dealing with bargain insurance for this poo poo.
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Sep 19, 2014 00:05
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one1two2three3 posted:I'm looking for a little bit of affirmation and a sanity check before I move forward and make an offer on a place. My situation: I'm single, no debt, and able to buy under a VA loan. Because of my job the odds of moving jobs (and locations) are very slim, and if moved will be back in the area within 3 years. Ultimately I'm planning on living in the home for 5 years at least. I've got $30k in the bank not set aside for a rainy day, make $4900/mo before taxes ($1300 of which doesn't get taxed), and no debt. My car is paid off and I don't plan on buying another one for 3 years. Since coming back from this latest trip I've decided I wanted to buy, and have been staying at a friend's while I figure out what to do. Credit score is 680, which I'm guessing is because I haven't ever really used credit. It all looks reasonably sane. I think the biggest thing is that there are unexpected expenses and things you'll find you need to buy when you move in. Perhaps an allowance for buying some furniture or appliances, although I note you have cash set aside which appears to be more than sufficient. Buying a house potentially less than your lending limit is good as it keeps payments affordable. I bought at about $30k below my limit but where I live you also need to come up with 20% deposit for good interest rates. I know the things I didn't allow for were an increase in transport costs and taxes. Given you have thought about tax then transport costs (if any difference) should be considered. e: I also got insurance for the situation where I would be unable to run my business by injury or major medical issue which would pay out the lump sum. I find it helpful but for me it's more about business continuity.
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Sep 19, 2014 00:12
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daggerdragon posted:I switched to Nationwide a couple months ago because their insurance for my car is much, much cheaper. They offered me even more of a discount if I switched my house insurance over as well. I did the math on my current vs. what Nationwide was offering, and it essentially was the same price for 3x the coverage. They sent out an inspector, who assured me everything was great, yadda yadda. A certain goon is an insurance expert and works for Nationwide and has been posted in this very thread! That goon is me. What state? You've only had a policy for 6 months? When did it exactly start? You should post photos if you safely can.
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Sep 19, 2014 00:13
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Jastiger posted:A certain goon is an insurance expert and works for Nationwide and has been posted in this very thread! That goon is me. New York. I switched the policy around... June? Photos are unnecessary, the shingles are definitely curling. I'm just mad because it's over the sunporch which does not matter if the "roof" leaks over a concrete slab and Nationwide wants a complete house re-roof.
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Sep 19, 2014 00:36
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daggerdragon posted:New York. I switched the policy around... June? Photos are unnecessary, the shingles are definitely curling. I'm just mad because it's over the sunporch which does not matter if the "roof" leaks over a concrete slab and Nationwide wants a complete house re-roof. Ah. New York. Say no more
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Sep 19, 2014 00:51
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Jastiger posted:Ah. New York. Say no more Yep.  I've got no choice except to start calling roofers tomorrow.I'd like to amend my previous statement: do never switch insurance providers in New York. Better yet, just stay out of New York entirely.
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Sep 19, 2014 00:55
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QuarkJets posted:I have a question about TITLE DEFECTS Update: Attorney said that the first one is not actually an issue, but the second one is. We need free and clear title insurance, otherwise we need to walk away. There's a good possibility that we can get free and clear title insurance, if the closing date is extended. Hypothetically, we can also just walk away right now on the basis of the title defect. What do you think, thread? Is it worth sticking around even if we can get title insurance? This is likely going to impact the future marketability of the house; the same defect will appear in the future, and the next buyer will have to run through the hassle of finding a company that provides title insurance covering this defect. There's also a possibility that the defect could be fixed by working with the attorney who filed the original foreclosure, but there's no guarantee of that. Do never buy?
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Sep 19, 2014 02:17
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We are already seeking an attorney to help us understand our situation better, but I'd like to see if anyone in the thread has suggestions, advice, or comments.
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QuarkJets posted:Update: Attorney said that the first one is not actually an issue, but the second one is. We need free and clear title insurance, otherwise we need to walk away. There's a good possibility that we can get free and clear title insurance, if the closing date is extended. Not sure what state you are in but for the love of God get a buyer's policy. The lender's policy ony covers the bank and leaves you SOL. In my state (Oregon) the seller has to pay for a buyer's policy.
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Sep 19, 2014 03:21
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Can you not just redo the shingles on the sun porch?
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Sep 19, 2014 04:39
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therobit posted:Not sure what state you are in but for the love of God get a buyer's policy. The lender's policy ony covers the bank and leaves you SOL. In my state (Oregon) the seller has to pay for a buyer's policy. We are purchasing an ALTA policy that covers buyer and lender, free and clear. Our purchase agreement allows us to walk if we can't get a free and clear buyer's policy, so even if the title company turns around at the last second and says "uh no" then we get to just walk away and keep our earnest money. Definitely ready to walk away if we can't get a buyer's policy. Definitely opting for a buyer's policy, and nothing less.
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Sep 19, 2014 05:52
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daggerdragon posted:Yep. New YOrk is an entirely different beast, so you're right. After looking at auto rates in metro areas in New York and Michigan, its just like....MOVE lol. Fraud is very problematic in New YOrk as well, and I know Nationwide is cracking down in the state, so they are looking for every little nook and cranny to see what they can about properties and risks. I'm sorry you had a bad experience, but most of it is not on the insurance carrier, its on the state and its terrible track record with insurance
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Sep 19, 2014 15:22
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The cloudy title is wearing on me. Our insurance is covering the defect, but I have no idea if this is going to significantly impact the future value of my home. Thread, if you saw a title defect but knew that insurance was covering everything, would you walk away?
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Sep 20, 2014 01:07
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I would walk away unless 1) the deal was ridiculous and 2) I was planning on making it my forever home.
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Sep 20, 2014 01:20
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Stupid question time. I got this estimate from USAA:code:Are "settlement costs" in addition to that "cash due at closing"? That is, for a 220,000 condo I'll be out 33K just to start with a tiny downpayment? If that's the case, I'll just save the 220,000 and the bank can go gently caress itself.
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Sep 20, 2014 06:59
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No, if you add up the minimum down payment, third-party fees, lender fees, prepaids and escrow line items it equals the $17,019.67 settlement cost. It looks like your lender is kicking in $815 towards your closing costs based on that estimate which is why your cash to close and settlement costs are different. That said, for a variety of reasons saving up for more than a 5% down payment on a condo is not exactly a bad idea.
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Sep 20, 2014 07:23
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Condos are kind of bullshit anyway, in a lot of cases. Have you checked to see what the normal maintenance fees are for the condo you're looking at? After taxes, insurance, the mortgage, and typical condo association and maintenance fees you're probably better off just renting, especially since you're going to have to pay PMI on top of all of that.
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Sep 20, 2014 11:01
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Yeah, that's what's holding me back. Unfortunately the median home price in my city is 500k. Good thing I like my landlord.
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Sep 20, 2014 19:30
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QuarkJets posted:Condos are kind of bullshit anyway, in a lot of cases. Have you checked to see what the normal maintenance fees are for the condo you're looking at? After taxes, insurance, the mortgage, and typical condo association and maintenance fees you're probably better off just renting, especially since you're going to have to pay PMI on top of all of that. I was under the impression that VA loans didn't have PMI? Edit: On a reread you said USAA which probably doesn't mean VA
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Sep 20, 2014 20:12
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one1two2three3 posted:I'm looking for a little bit of affirmation and a sanity check before I move forward and make an offer on a place. My situation: I'm single, no debt, and able to buy under a VA loan. Because of my job the odds of moving jobs (and locations) are very slim, and if moved will be back in the area within 3 years. Ultimately I'm planning on living in the home for 5 years at least. I've got $30k in the bank not set aside for a rainy day, make $4900/mo before taxes ($1300 of which doesn't get taxed), and no debt. My car is paid off and I don't plan on buying another one for 3 years. Since coming back from this latest trip I've decided I wanted to buy, and have been staying at a friend's while I figure out what to do. Credit score is 680, which I'm guessing is because I haven't ever really used credit. you're leaving out $150-300/mo in just random poo poo costs. dishwasher breaks, you need a pressure washer to clean some poo poo, you have a mold problem and need to recaulk some tile and bleach it down, your toilet stops working, your A/C explodes, you have to change filters on XYZ, you need termite coverage or pest control, you decide you want to hire a yardkeeper, etc. Just budget a couple hundred a month for random poo poo and you'll be fine.
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Sep 22, 2014 07:12
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shortspecialbus posted:That could also be part of it, yeah - I haven't lived with well water before. In case anyone cares, this was remedied by scrubbing the dishwasher a bit, especially around the edging where there was some visible mold that had creeped through, with Soft Scrub with Bleach and then running a cup of bleach through on sanitize. Seems fine now.
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Sep 22, 2014 14:17
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Goddam is the thread title accurate. Was supposed to close tomorrow or Wednesday, but the VA is delaying stuff. The appraisal came back great, we just need to get the paperwork finalized so I can get mah fridgitater in there. But drat does the closing being delayed suck.
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Sep 22, 2014 15:10
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Let's talk homeowner's insurance... I'm buying a house, and I've gotten 10 quotes so far, with another 6 or 8 still pending, but I've got a pretty good idea for what I'm looking for at this point. I'm in Ohio, and everyone looks to be running around $750/yr. from Allstate, Nationwide, State Farm, Liberty Mutual, etc. I got a quote from Erie Insurance for ~80 cheaper/year, and a quote from Met Life for $560/yr. All the limits are about the same, deductible, sewer back up, etc. So, my question is, does anyone have any experience with Met Life, and are there any reasons I shouldn't go with them? Apparently the area I'm in plus my credit rating gives me some pretty excellent rates. They're not a fly by night, any reason I should be wary? What about Erie Insurance? Or should I stick with one of the big guys like Allstate, Nationwide, etc? Panthrax fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 17:17
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I've always liked (and you get some discounts) to "bundle" all my insurance policies together, Car/Homeowners/Renters even WineStorage. I've used Mercury for a long time.
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Sep 22, 2014 17:36
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As a data point (although not as the only factor for consideration) I like to check JD Power ratings. JD Power is independent and their data is based on surveys. http://ratings.jdpower.com/insurance/index.htm From the 2014 study, Amica Mutual has the top rating, followed by auto-owner's insurance. Met Life's ratings are poor. State Farm does well, although only 3/5 for claims. Erie is actually rated higher. I use Amica for my auto insurance and may switch my homeowners' over too. One thing though, at least in California, Amica does not work through independent agents (according to my independent homeowner's insurance agent) which is inconvenient for me, because I also buy earthquake insurance and for that, I prefer to use my agent. But I got a very good rate for my auto insurance from Amica, and when I made a total loss claim, they were great to work with and paid out more than I was expecting for my car. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 17:45
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How common/reasonable is it to ask for cash back at closing for repairs? I just had an inspection and it revealed a lot of immediate repairs I hadn't anticipated, to the tune of at least $13,000 (new boiler, new water heater, new electrical box, new roof, insulation work, bathroom vent work, etc.). Given the fact that I don't physically have the money to address all of those immediately, are my options basically to ask for enough money back at closing, walk, or cross my fingers they don't fail before I can save up more? Reducing the sales price won't help because that would still mean I have to pay for all those repairs immediately out of my own pocket. EDIT: I should also mention I looked into repair and replacement plans for the boiler and water heater from my energy company but it turns out that they cover less than half the cost of replacement. They offer financing for new equipment, which I guess is something I could consider. It's 6.99% and 5 years, so it's not terrible but I wonder if I should just look for a house that doesn't need this level of work instead. Mary Fucking Poppins fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 18:39
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Mary loving Poppins posted:How common/reasonable is it to ask for cash back at closing for repairs? I just had an inspection and it revealed a lot of immediate repairs I hadn't anticipated, to the tune of at least $13,000 (new boiler, new water heater, new electrical box, new roof, insulation work, bathroom vent work, etc.). Given the fact that I don't physically have the money to address all of those immediately, are my options basically to ask for enough money back at closing, walk, or cross my fingers they don't fail before I can save up more? Reducing the sales price won't help because that would still mean I have to pay for all those repairs immediately out of my own pocket. If you haven't already dealt with the inspection contingency you could probably ask for them to be fixed beforehand, and if they won't or at least give you money, you can walk away and get your earnest money back. Or such it is in Wisconsin. Edit: We made our sellers replace the water heater and put in a radon mitigation system. They had no issues doing both. ssb fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 18:47
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It is extremely common and reasonable to ask the seller for relief based on the repair estimate revealed by your inspections. That relief can come in the form of cash back, but also sometimes involves giving the seller the option of doing the repair themselves. Unless the repair is basically lego (e.g., buy new water heater, plug in where old water heater was, and you can specify exactly which water heater will be bought) you should prefer the cash, because a seller trying to close is likely to do the absolute bare minimum to pass reinspection/hire someone shady and cheap/etc. Assuming you have an inspection contingency, you have the option of walking and getting your earnest money back (you will still be out the cost of inspections). The seller does not want that to happen because not only do they have to re-list the property, but your inspection report informs them of problems they are now legally obligated to disclose to potential buyers, which degrades the property's value and attractiveness. Generally their realtor will advise them to make concessions to you in order to close, so be prepared to play hardball to get what you want. Don't fall in love with the house, and be ready to walk if they won't fix, or pay for, significant problems. Those major problems absolutely include the roof, boiler, panel, and probably the water heater. For the insulation and bathroom vent work, depends on how big a deal they are, but probably those should be included in the discussion too. One more thing, though. If, after all is said and done, you you won't have at least like ten grand in cash to handle home repairs, you are stretching yourself pretty thin financially. You should build up or restore your savings as fast as possible, because random $5k-$10k home expenses can crop up at any time. Oh, and no, you should not finance a boiler, geez. Save up the cash or buy a house with a functional boiler (but really the answer is, make the sellers pay for it).
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Sep 22, 2014 18:54
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Panthrax posted:Let's talk homeowner's insurance... I'm buying a house, and I've gotten 10 quotes so far, with another 6 or 8 still pending, but I've got a pretty good idea for what I'm looking for at this point. I'm in Ohio, and everyone looks to be running around $750/yr. from Allstate, Nationwide, State Farm, Liberty Mutual, etc. I got a quote from Erie Insurance for ~80 cheaper/year, and a quote from Met Life for $560/yr. All the limits are about the same, deductible, sewer back up, etc. I have an entire thread for this kind of thing  I would be leery of places offering MEGA low rates, especially from Metlife. They are a solid company, but aren't generally the "discount" guys. Their coverage tends to be a bit pricier and much more comprehensive. Double check the quote and ask about all discounts being applied before accepting anything. It may be one of those "Get in low, jack up later" deals. I used to work for Met and I would describe them as "stodgy". The volvo of insurance. Pricey, a bit unattractive and distant, but reliable. Make sure you bundle your stuff too for maximum discounts. Erie is huge in that area, but from my experiences with them YMMV. Make sure its a GOOD policy and not anything cut out to save money. I've seen them do that sometimes. Other times the coverage is great, so again, check out the quote they give you and discounts. Anyways, you should call me and let me quote you, or at least go over the quote we've already done *muahahaha*
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Sep 22, 2014 18:54
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Leperflesh posted:It is extremely common and reasonable to ask the seller for relief based on the repair estimate revealed by your inspections. That relief can come in the form of cash back, but also sometimes involves giving the seller the option of doing the repair themselves. Unless the repair is basically lego (e.g., buy new water heater, plug in where old water heater was, and you can specify exactly which water heater will be bought) you should prefer the cash, because a seller trying to close is likely to do the absolute bare minimum to pass reinspection/hire someone shady and cheap/etc. But if it's customary and legal to ask for cash back at closing, I would prefer to go that route. This thread has taught me that realtor's promises aren't worth anything, and neither are home warranties. And yeah, I hear you on the cash reserves. I have $10k in my "I lost my job fund" and would have had $13k left over after the purchase, but I was hoping to use half for cosmetic stuff now and save half for repairs in the future. I wasn't really anticipating spending it all on immediately necessary mechanical repairs, so that's why I need to either ask for money or walk. Mary Fucking Poppins fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 19:32
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