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Powershift posted:The "sears" that's bleeding to death is "sears holding corp" of which k-mart and sears retail stores are subsidiaries. K-mart buying sears is how it happened, but sears holding corp, which owns k-mart, is what is failing. Family Dollar will be the only company to survive the retail wars. http://youtu.be/xFiDoOgRTpk
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Sep 21, 2014 08:03
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TWSS posted:Was it a small aluminum screw that held the brake rotor to the hub? If so, those are only used for factory assembly purposes and not at all required to stop the car. Whack an appropriately sized chisel into the head and strike the chisel from angles that nudge the bolt/screw to thread out. Yes, though there are two, fairly large, and there are the appropriate holes on the new rotors. Still, wasn't planning on reusing them. I did break a screw driver bit trying that, but it was too small anyway.
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Sep 21, 2014 08:16
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Uthor posted:Yes, though there are two, fairly large, and there are the appropriate holes on the new rotors. Still, wasn't planning on reusing them. This video saved my life when doing my friend's rotors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxQk7Pz_vfc First Attempt: PB Blaster and a Harbor Freight impact driver resulted in two screws out, two screws hosed up, and a broken impact driver. Second Attempt (after watching video): PB Blaster followed by the 2 hammer trick from the video followed by a Northern Tool impact driver got the remaining 4 screws out in under 5 minutes. The 2 mangled screws (one of which had the HF impact bit sheered off inside) were removed using my $20 air hammer.
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Sep 21, 2014 10:23
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InterceptorV8 posted:I hope nobody plans on using their craftsman lifetime warranty for much longer.... Goddammit! I guess I need to get realistic and buy a few good ratchets. Or just switch to abusing the HF warranty instead. Uthor posted:Yes, though there are two, fairly large, and there are the appropriate holes on the new rotors. Still, wasn't planning on reusing them. The way I did these last weekend was to get them cherry red with the brazing tip on my oxyacetylene torch (I didn't want to slag the bearings or seals by using a cutting head, and it was like 50 feet away anyways  ), then use a hammer and a beefy phillips driver to drive them inward slightly, deforming the head and releasing the preload. They spun out with a vise grip on the screwdriver shank after that. You may not have an oxy torch, but you also may not live in the rust belt.
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Sep 21, 2014 12:52
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you know... My HF ratchets are by far a million times nicer than craftsman. I'm not very brand loyal though. My tool box is filled with about 40% of HF hand tools and the rest is a mix of poo poo
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Sep 21, 2014 12:59
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sharkytm posted:I can get pictures in a few days, I've got a bunch that I should sell. How big do you want? I've got a bunch of smaller (3" and 4") vises, and only one monster, which could use some work. I'm retarded and can't estimate size and poo poo. I need a beefy one to use as a press because that's how I broke the last one. No idea on pricing. Just email me some pics and how much you want for 'em and I'll counter offer you a lower price and a hug.
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Sep 21, 2014 14:21
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Cat Hatter posted:This video saved my life when doing my friend's rotors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxQk7Pz_vfc Personally, after the bit breaks, I get angry and its torch time. Eric the car guy rules. I still never get why he only works on Hondas and does not have a proper lift in his shop. Also I hear rumors that hitting two ball peen hammers together can make one explode and send metal shards through you at like near supersonic speeds. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Sep 21, 2014 |
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Sep 21, 2014 14:45
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Will any of those Milwaukee cordless impacts put out enough torque to use them for lug nuts? I usually use my giant heavy electric HF Impact but a cordless would be SO much better.
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Sep 21, 2014 16:24
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Rubiks Pubes posted:Will any of those Milwaukee cordless impacts put out enough torque to use them for lug nuts? I usually use my giant heavy electric HF Impact but a cordless would be SO much better. Yes they'll work just fine. I use a cheapo Ryobi to do lugs all the time.
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Sep 21, 2014 16:37
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revmoo posted:Yes they'll work just fine. I use a cheapo Ryobi to do lugs all the time. Any particular one I should look for? I have the 1:4" ryobi and it just is not strong enough for lugs.
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Sep 21, 2014 16:51
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Preoptopus posted:Personally, after the bit breaks, I get angry and its torch time. I can also confirm that Mapp gas won't get hot enough to get those screws to loosen.
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Sep 21, 2014 19:16
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I'm thinking about taking a flap disk to my cast iron skillet. I noticed that some of them are specified for steel, stainless, aluminum, and/or non-ferrous metals. Which does cast iron count as?
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Sep 21, 2014 19:30
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ferrous+steel. Why flap wheel it? I'd wire wheel and call it a day. Hell even doing that will bring the GWS goons down on your back for ruining the seasoning, unless it's crusty as gently caress and rusting.
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Sep 21, 2014 19:34
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Lodge skillets are textured, but older skillets are typically very smooth. I was thinking about de-seasoning mine with oven cleaner, flap-disking it to polish the surface, and then re-seasoning it. And, hell, it's a Lodge. If I gently caress it up, I paid twelve bucks for it.
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Sep 21, 2014 19:36
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How do the skillets do with a good sand blasting? This is assuming they are in need of it of course.
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Sep 21, 2014 19:39
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Rubiks Pubes posted:Any particular one I should look for? I have the 1:4" ryobi and it just is not strong enough for lugs. There are two ryobi cordless impacts (not counting past models) with 220Nm and 265Nm for the 1/4" and 1/2" respectively. As the better one retails for nearly £100 here I'd skip straight to the Clarke or Sealey 24v jobby for nearly the same price and 450Nm  E: 150lbft is 203Nm. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Sep 21, 2014 |
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Sep 21, 2014 21:44
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Rubiks Pubes posted:Any particular one I should look for? I have the 1:4" ryobi and it just is not strong enough for lugs. You'll want at least a 3/8" drive for that. Check through the specs and make sure it'll deliver over 150 ft lbs.
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Sep 21, 2014 22:09
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Slow is Fast posted:I'm retarded and can't estimate size and poo poo. Get a press. Seriously. If you keep using a vise for one, it'll break. They aren't designed for that kind of force. I've got a Dake lever-actuated arbor press that works way better than a vise. I'll get pictures tomorrow if I remember. I've got a massive 5" Wilton that's seized and missing a lot of parts, but I can't get rid of it yet. I've got a really nice Monarch that I'm keeping, a small Athol swivel-jaw that is unused (and I'm keeping), and about 4 others that could go. One Parker that I repainted, another Parker that's been brazed back together, a Simplex, and at least 2 others.
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Sep 22, 2014 00:56
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sharkytm posted:Get a press. Seriously. If you keep using a vise for one, it'll break. They aren't designed for that kind of force. if you remove the front jaw/slide assembly, there will be a 2 digit date stamped into the tube, that is not the date of manufacture, but the date the warranty ran out. They were sold with a 5 year warranty, so yours is 5 years older than that date code. edit: on the wilton that is iForge fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 01:43
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Rubiks Pubes posted:Will any of those Milwaukee cordless impacts put out enough torque to use them for lug nuts? I usually use my giant heavy electric HF Impact but a cordless would be SO much better. I got the m18 3/8" fuel and it does 200 ft lbs which is plenty. I think the regular version does a little less but is fine too.
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Sep 22, 2014 01:45
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iForge posted:if you remove the front jaw/slide assembly, there will be a 2 digit date stamped into the tube, that is not the date of manufacture, but the date the warranty ran out. They were sold with a 5 year warranty, so yours is 5 years older than that date code. Oh, I'm aware of the date stamp. This fucker is seized up tight. Its a scrap-yard find, and sat in water for a while.
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Sep 22, 2014 12:31
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sharkytm posted:Get a press. Seriously. If you keep using a vise for one, it'll break. They aren't designed for that kind of force. Press is in the works, but a vice should be able to squeeze in poly bushings without dying. It broke turning it by hand.
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Sep 22, 2014 14:13
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Slow is Fast posted:Press is in the works, but a vice should be able to squeeze in poly bushings without dying. It broke turning it by hand. Oh, then it was a POS. I've used my Larin for press-duty, and I'm amazed that I haven't broken it yet. Then I got the Dake Arbor press, so no more need. Do you want a swivel-base? I'm not actually a fan of them for most things.
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Sep 22, 2014 14:14
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sharkytm posted:Oh, then it was a POS. Rugged, Big, Cheap. I'm in no rush, if you're looking to unload some I'll buy one off you if we ever have another NEAI
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Sep 22, 2014 14:52
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Safety Dance posted:Lodge skillets are textured, but older skillets are typically very smooth. I was thinking about de-seasoning mine with oven cleaner, flap-disking it to polish the surface, and then re-seasoning it. GWS cast iron nazi popping in here to say nah, gently caress it, your idea will work okay as long as you do a good re-season afterwards. Flap wheel is a dumb idea though because what will you do at the edges? Conical wire wheel is what I'd use. All cast iron skillets start life with roughly (  ) the same texture as a Lodge. That nice smoothness comes from polishing over years with spatulas and other utensils.
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Sep 22, 2014 15:28
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This was posted a few pages back but I picked up the Gearwrench 32 piece set (http://www.sears.com/gearwrench-32pc-combination-stubby-ratcheting-wrench-set-sae-mm/p-00939327000P)for $86.60 + tax and free shipping with the code SAVE15. Thanks tool thread!
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Sep 22, 2014 15:48
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I bought the cheapest oil catch pan that sealed up and I hate it. It's too much extra work just to catch it and the lid broke and leaks always. http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11838-Oil-Drain/dp/B000AMGYNA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1411405266&sr=8-17&keywords=oil+drain+pan I'd like to switch to just an open pan and get a jug or something to fill, but I'm striking out there. I'm too nervous about ones like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-16...=oil+drain+pan, since there's a large area to leak from on the side. Are there any better options? All I want is a giant jug like my cat litter comes in from Costco, but I don't trust a used cat litter jug from Costco to last very long.
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Sep 22, 2014 18:08
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StormDrain posted:I bought the cheapest oil catch pan that sealed up and I hate it. It's too much extra work just to catch it and the lid broke and leaks always. http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11838-Oil-Drain/dp/B000AMGYNA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1411405266&sr=8-17&keywords=oil+drain+pan We've used the same 5 gallon water jug since I was a kid, it's been in service for at least 20 years. Just the big clear plastic ones that you buy for a water dispenser/cooler. Get a wide funnel for it and it works great. It takes quite a while to get full, and when it does you just take it in to the parts store and dump it into their recycling tank. e: This is just for collection, I drain the motor oil into a plain old catch pan and pour it into the jug when done. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 18:11
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Ran my $20 HF grinder for quite a while yesterday and it didn't explode and remove my fingers, so I'd call that a winner! I did replace all of the factory "grease" with some high-temp red grease, so I'm sure that's got something to do with it. I'm kicking myself for not buying it a year ago.
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Sep 22, 2014 18:25
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Astonishing Wang posted:We've used the same 5 gallon water jug since I was a kid, it's been in service for at least 20 years. Just the big clear plastic ones that you buy for a water dispenser/cooler. Get a wide funnel for it and it works great. It takes quite a while to get full, and when it does you just take it in to the parts store and dump it into their recycling tank. Ah ha! Thank you, I realized I should just be searching for a wide mouth jug, I can label it fine on my own. I may go with this one: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=26049&catid=611
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Sep 22, 2014 20:30
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StormDrain posted:Ah ha! Thank you, I realized I should just be searching for a wide mouth jug, I can label it fine on my own. I may go with this one: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=26049&catid=611 Go behind like, any office building or warehouse and score an empty water jug for free.
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Sep 22, 2014 20:48
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StormDrain posted:I bought the cheapest oil catch pan that sealed up and I hate it. It's too much extra work just to catch it and the lid broke and leaks always. http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11838-Oil-Drain/dp/B000AMGYNA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1411405266&sr=8-17&keywords=oil+drain+pan I have that same pan (the first one, except mine has Blitz's name on it instead) and it is indeed complete garbage. I still use it but pour it into a 5 gallon kerosene container because gas/kerosene/diesel cans are the only thing I trust Blitz to make that can actually seal properly. I am interested in trying one of these though since they have a pair of good reviews over at Northern Tool.
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Sep 22, 2014 20:58
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Go behind like, any office building or warehouse and score an empty water jug for free. Double post, but I think water cooler jugs have a deposit on them so be aware that you might be stealing a nearly inconsequential amount of money from someone. I think those crates for 2-litre bottles also have something like a $5 deposit on them but I have a big stack of them at home because the grocery store keeps insisting that I take them if I'm stocking up on Pepsi though.
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Sep 22, 2014 21:01
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I've had good luck with the HF drain pan that looks like this:  It works pretty well, no leaks yet, but whenever I hand it to the guy at the parts store to recycle the oil I have about a 50% rate of getting it back with the big drain plug not being installed correctly. Luckily it has a seal on it so it doesn't need to be perfect, but I worry the threads will get mangled badly enough to start leaking out of there. Hasn't happened yet! I've only had it a couple years, now, though.
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Sep 22, 2014 21:33
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Raluek posted:I've had good luck with the HF drain pan that looks like this: Harbor Freight posted:...holding 8.5 quarts in the horizontal position or 18.5 quarts when vertical... That aside, if I had a company that made oil pans, I'd be ashamed that HF can make a pan that seals and nobody else can. Coke/Pepsi make how many millions of cheap and disposable plastic bottles that seal properly and yet nobody can make a pan that doesn't leak oil?
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Sep 22, 2014 21:47
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I guess that's what they expect you to do. I only use it for one or two vehicles at a time, so it usually doesn't have more than 5 quarts in it. I don't know how well that "fill" plug seals if you fill it past that in the "vertical" position, but it has an O-ring on it so maybe it's fine.
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Sep 22, 2014 21:51
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Cat Hatter posted:This video saved my life when doing my friend's rotors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxQk7Pz_vfc So my experience was: Stripped the first screw. Got the second screw out with a bit and a 3/8" breaker bar (don't know how I didn't strip that one). Drilled and used a screw extractor on the first screw. Broke the bit in the third screw. Probably ruined a few of my dad's drill bits trying to drill it out. Ended up with a chisel and a hammer and repeating, "Keep hammering assholes!" Broke the screw extractor in the fourth screw (used a too small one). Moar chisel and hammer!  Since Mazda used two screws per rotor, that was only two of the brakes done! I told my sister to she could get someone else to do the rears or I could take a shot at them next time I'm in town. I found this method for getting the rotors off after "HAMMER!" didn't work in that case. It was brilliant! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs Any, tool questions: -I really need to get an impact driver. Suggestion? -I should replace my dad's drill bits. I'm thinking of two sets, one for wood and one for metal, sized ~1/4" and smaller. Suggestions?
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Sep 23, 2014 01:21
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I think the tools thread in DIY & Hobbies is currently discussing Milwaukee battery powered impacts. Reviews are favorable.
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Sep 23, 2014 01:32
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MRC48B posted:I think the tools thread in DIY & Hobbies is currently discussing Milwaukee battery powered impacts. Reviews are favorable. Oh, I meant one I can hit with a hammer. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1411432594&sr=8-4&keywords=impact+driver
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Sep 23, 2014 01:36
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sharkytm posted:Oh, I'm aware of the date stamp. This fucker is seized up tight. Its a scrap-yard find, and sat in water for a while. When I got mine it was a ball of rust. I had to remove the screw and use wedges and a couple of prybars to open it wide enough to fit a scissor jack between the jaws, then slowly got it open the rest of the way. The grease was petrified so it soaked in gasoline for a few days and everything cleaned up nicely. I took a bunch of pictures of the process but I don't think I posted them. I've never owned a better vise.
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Sep 23, 2014 05:38
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