|
I was helping my dad build an extension for a deck today, used an M18 Fuel impact drill. This little fucker.  This thing kicks all sorts of rear end. I sort of looked at it a little funny at first, but it didn't give a poo poo. It was putting 6 inch screws in no problem for hours. 18/18 go get one.
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 23:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 02:46 |
|
|
the spyder posted:I have one at work and there is no reason you should not buy one right now. You could wait until the October 12th parking lot sale and pick one up for $359. Unless you have $1500 to spend on a SnapOn/MAC for some reason. My father-in-law sells MAC for a living. He has 4 or 5 in his garage and 3 in his office, serving as filing cabinets. I'm hoping for one underneath the Christmas tree this year. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 04:49
|
|
|
Rotten Cookies posted:I was helping my dad build an extension for a deck today, used an M18 Fuel impact drill. In to say the M12 version of this rocks too... just less power but still RAWWWWRRR GO GO GO GO. Its quite the mighty little mofo.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2014 16:52
|
|
|
Rotten Cookies posted:I was helping my dad build an extension for a deck today, used an M18 Fuel impact drill. I got one of these for my lab. Absolutely awesome.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2014 18:10
|
|
|
Rotten Cookies posted:I was helping my dad build an extension for a deck today, used an M18 Fuel impact drill. Yeah, I wanted to drop in to say that (based on the advice here) I ended up getting the M18 Hammer Driver/Drill + Impact Drill combo, and then I picked up the 18v Hackzall as well. I literally giggled involuntarily the first time I used the impact drill.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2014 21:45
|
|
|
I gotta say that Milwaukee's M18/M12 has been great across the board from what I've used so far. My dad and I both used to gravitate towards DeWalt (both because of preference and because of compatibility between our poo poo) but now we're fully on Milwaukee. Tube cutter, pvc cutter, camera (got that free in a distributor deal?), router, impact drill, heat gun (corded, actually), jigsaw, sawzall, mini-sawzall (hackzall). All work great. And the little flashlight thing holds a pretty good charge, too, and runs off the same batteries. I'd honestly have a hard time not recommending the brand to someone in any situation.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 02:29
|
|
|
I got the M12 Hammer Drill / Impact combo bag a few years back, and it has been awesome. Some folks on job sites still talk poo poo until they use them, then want to buy them. I beat the poo poo out of those drills at work all the time and they just come back for more. I will probably get the same setup in Fuel / Brushless at some point in the future but frankly I don't even need to, the regular M12 tools do 95% of the work I'd ever do. Going to the brushless would probably get me up to 98%. Edit: I have apparently been abusing these tools since early 2011, thankfully this thread is old and pushed me toward M12 back then enziarro fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Sep 22, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2014 02:45
|
|
|
hey guys - quick q. I have a cheap pancake compressor from HF (http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-95275.html) and I use it for pumping up tires and running a brad gun. MAYBE I'll use it once a week. The instructions say to drain it when not using it, but I tried that and its annoying to have to wait for it to pump up when you want to use it. So I now leave it pressurized with the tool pressure off. Am I going to get reduced life from the tank or is this rust not a big deal?
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2014 12:57
|
|
|
Not a big deal, as long as you drain the water out of the bottom of the tank before you store it. And it's basically a bomb so don't run it over with your car.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2014 13:57
|
|
|
dhrusis posted:hey guys - quick q. I have a cheap pancake compressor from HF (http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-95275.html) and I use it for pumping up tires and running a brad gun. MAYBE I'll use it once a week. The instructions say to drain it when not using it, but I tried that and its annoying to have to wait for it to pump up when you want to use it. So I now leave it pressurized with the tool pressure off. The reason they want you to drain it is because condensation forms inside the tank as the air is being compressed. You're draining it to get the moisture out, not really the air. Not draining it will cause the tank to rust out eventually. OXbrain posted:Not a big deal, as long as you drain the water out of the bottom of the tank before you store it. Draining the water would release the air as well... which is what he doesnt want to do.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2014 16:42
|
|
|
Anyone have experience with cordless 18/20v nail guns? I've been seeing them in use more and more on the home shows and wondering if it might be worth adding one to the tool line up. Right now i'm doing a lot of finish work on the house lugging around even a small 3 gallon compressor is getting old.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 22:35
|
|
|
I've got the ryobi 18gauge one and it's seriously amazing. Not having to move a compressor around is the best feeling in the world.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 22:43
|
|
|
I'm back with another tool question. It turns out that I need a torch to properly disconnect my sink's supply line. I've never bought one of these things before. What should I look for in a torch? Will a propane torch like this one from Crappy Tire be sufficient? The builder might've put some sort of adhesive/sealant when they did the faucet's plumbing, so this vanity replacement's going to drag along even longer. Bonus pic- I took down the mirror. Remember those pesky metal clips? None of them had that "spring". They were regular, fixed metal clips. On top of that, the builder (Daniels Corporation) used that black, sticky tacky poo poo to mount the mirror, which ripped off more of my drywall paper as I took down the mirror:  gently caress this builder. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Sep 27, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 02:08
|
|
|
Sointenly posted:Anyone have experience with cordless 18/20v nail guns? I've been seeing them in use more and more on the home shows and wondering if it might be worth adding one to the tool line up. I bought a cordless paslode framing nail gun that runs on butane or something and it owns owns owns they make a finish version too
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 05:51
|
|
|
Can someone educate me on what the different types of nailer are and where/what they should be used for please? Amazon vine sent me a free brad nailer and I'm wondering if I can build small structures with it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 10:16
|
|
|
Sointenly posted:Anyone have experience with cordless 18/20v nail guns? I've been seeing them in use more and more on the home shows and wondering if it might be worth adding one to the tool line up. I threw the ryobi nailer on my wedding registry and got it after reading the reviews. Seems great though I've only done some test nailing (like 100 nails). Sometime I'm going to put up some trim with it. On a side note though one of my two ryobi batteries just died. Not happy about that. The charger does the defective battery blink. There is no reason I can think of, just randomly died after pretty light use over a year or two. Being down to just one is a bummer.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 13:33
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Can someone educate me on what the different types of nailer are and where/what they should be used for please? Amazon vine sent me a free brad nailer and I'm wondering if I can build small structures with it. Small structures? If by that you mean maybe a bird house, then maybe. Brads are very small finishing nails. They are for attaching trim. There are a lot of different kinds of nails and nailers for nearly every one of them. You start with a framing nailer to frame something out, possibly a palm nailer for tough spots like joist hangers. Then move on to a coil nailer for siding/roofing. Then move on to a finish nailer for door trim/window trim. And down further to a brad nailer for really small detail trim. Even smaller and lighter than that is a pin nailer which I've never had a need for, but a lot of woodworkers/craftspeople seem to like them a lot.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 15:25
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Even smaller and lighter than that is a pin nailer which I've never had a need for, but a lot of woodworkers/craftspeople seem to like them a lot. They're an absolute godsend to the Hellraiser re-enactment community.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 15:33
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Small structures? If by that you mean maybe a bird house, then maybe. So when it says it'll do 35mm brads, that's for really big trim? Or could I use those for attaching siding?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 16:51
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:So when it says it'll do 35mm brads, that's for really big trim? Or could I use those for attaching siding? Siding isn't attached with brads. The nails have to have larger heads on them (especially for vinyl siding).
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 18:28
|
|
|
Any recommendations for a tile cutter? I just found out that our house's builder decided not to install floor tiles beneath the vanity we're replacing, and the new one we bought has an exposed underside. And what tool is best for scraping off old Thin-Set? Will a floor scraper like this one do the job, or is there a better tool? melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Feb 4, 2024 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 03:23
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Siding isn't attached with brads. The nails have to have larger heads on them (especially for vinyl siding). So brads are headless nails, gotcha thanks. Looks like if I wanted to build anything of a decent size I'd need 2 more nail guns, framing and siding. Well I already own hammers so unless I'm planning on raising a barn that'll do. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 09:40 on Sep 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 06:06
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:So brads are headless nails, gotcha thanks. Looks like if I wanted to build anything of a decent size I'd need 2 more nail guns, framing and siding. Brads have very small heads. Pin nails have no heads. Siding is often done with a coil gun, and that will take care of roofing for you as well. You can mostly get by without a finish nailer if you have a hammer and don't care about speed. Unless you're installing windows. I wouldn't even bother without one. I'd strongly prefer one for doors as well. Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Sep 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 16:08
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:So brads are headless nails, gotcha thanks. Looks like if I wanted to build anything of a decent size I'd need 2 more nail guns, framing and siding. If you want to build things quickly an impact driver and square or star screws starts to approach a nailgun in terms of ease but is also stronger. Out of all the projects I do I often have the most fun throwing together 2x4 projects with the impact, the hackzall, and screws. It's almost like Legos for real life. Log holder, canoe stand, lumber rack etc. One key thing for me are McFeely's screws. The pro-max screws are designed for joining lumber and have a extra large unthreaded area so all the threads end up in one board. The 2-7/8" screws for example are threaded for exactly 1.5" so when you join 2x4's they really pull the peices together. This makes a huge difference compared to say drywall screws, which won't properly join like this. https://www.mcfeelys.com/icatalog/p.aspx?page=30
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 16:37
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Brads are very small finishing nails. They are for attaching trim. Rotten Cookies posted:I was helping my dad build an extension for a deck today, used an M18 Fuel impact drill. melon cat fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Sep 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 17:33
|
|
|
asdf32 posted:If you want to build things quickly an impact driver and square or star screws starts to approach a nailgun in terms of ease but is also stronger. I'm in the UK so decent head screws are harder to come by, star head self countersinking screws that I've seen are nearly £100 for 250, but flanged hex head screw's are much cheaper, at £17 for 100. I don't currently have an impact but it's next on my tool list. Thanks, guess I can use the brad nailer to pin things while I get a proper fixing in.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 20:05
|
|
|
Phillips aren't anything on star or square drive, but will do fine for joinery. No need for fancy screws really.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 20:52
|
|
|
melon cat posted:I'm back with another tool question. That looks like a normal compression fitting, unless I'm not seeing the right thing that needs a torch? Also your mirror is a real mystery: how did they mount it in the first place? Like I guess they could put up brackets and slide it in there sideways, but not with black sticky crud on the back, or they could put up one bracket and glue the mirror to the wall, but how do they screw in the second bracket? Your posts are like the "I accidentally the whole thing" of this dang forum! 
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 21:02
|
|
|
thespaceinvader posted:Phillips aren't anything on star or square drive, but will do fine for joinery. No need for fancy screws really. I dislike Phillips, I wish there was a good cheap alternative like square drive over here.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 21:26
|
|
|
King of Gulps posted:That looks like a normal compression fitting, unless I'm not seeing the right thing that needs a torch? Yeah, I am confused as well - that's an adjustable wrench and/or water pump pliers job.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 21:26
|
|
|
asdf32 posted:If you want to build things quickly an impact driver and square or star screws starts to approach a nailgun in terms of ease but is also stronger. Ok you piqued my curiosity. What's the particular value of having all the threads in one board like that? Presumably the threads pull the second board towards the first, and the head of the screw holds the first board in place -- does the unthreaded region allow for the top board to be placed under tension, i.e. the screw actually pinning the boards together rather than just running through both of them and holding them in place by the threads? Also, is there any compelling reason to use my conventional M18 Drill/Driver (which DOES have a hammer-drill setting) over my M18 impact driver for screws? I've mostly been using the Drill/Driver for pilot hole and wood screw work, and just using the impact driver for nuts/bolts/machine screws. Am I underusing it?
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 21:46
|
|
|
Pretty much that. If there are threads on the entirety of the screw, the screw wouldn't be able to pull the two boards together and you'd end up with a gap between the two.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 22:53
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Is there anything wrong with using regular 'ole nails for attaching baseboard trim? I need to replace some in our bathroom, but I don't have the cash to buy a nailer. I wouldn't try to remove lug nuts with the M12 impact. The M18 I wouldn't think would have an issue though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2014 00:28
|
|
|
Hubis posted:Ok you piqued my curiosity. What's the particular value of having all the threads in one board like that? Presumably the threads pull the second board towards the first, and the head of the screw holds the first board in place -- does the unthreaded region allow for the top board to be placed under tension, i.e. the screw actually pinning the boards together rather than just running through both of them and holding them in place by the threads? Yes and it makes a big difference. The screws I lonked are also self drilling. Don't mix up an impact driver with a hammer drill. A hammer drill goes in and out. An impact driver only rotates, but rotates in quick bursts. An impact driver is suited for screws. The hammer drill is primarily for masonry drilling and a few other things. You don't want to use a hammer drill with regular screws. asdf32 fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Sep 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2014 00:35
|
|
|
asdf32 posted:Yes and it makes a big difference. The screws I lonked are also self drilling. Right, I knew that (about the hammer drill). I guess I was wondering whether I'd ever want to opt to use a "regular" drill over an impact driver -- I guess there are maybe cases where I don't want that torque, or need better control over speed?
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2014 01:57
|
|
|
Hubis posted:I guess I was wondering whether I'd ever want to opt to use a "regular" drill over an impact driver Any time you want torque without the impact. An impact driver will spin without the impact engaging, but only at certain torques, and that specific torque will vary between drivers. Some may have the option to disable the impact functionality? I dunno, mine doesn't. In any event, I don't think I'd ever want, say, a drill bit to get hit with the impact driver triggering, so I just wouldn't chance it by putting a drill bit in an impact driver. Sometimes you definitely want smooth torque instead of momentary torque. The obvious case being the aforementioned drilling scenario. But that's why it's an impact driver, because it's for driving.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2014 02:06
|
|
|
Hubis posted:Right, I knew that (about the hammer drill). I guess I was wondering whether I'd ever want to opt to use a "regular" drill over an impact driver -- I guess there are maybe cases where I don't want that torque, or need better control over speed? Oh, 1) If you want finer control over torque via the clutch 2) you just want another drill on hand with a different bit 3) You want something that doesn't sound like a jackhammer. Those are 3 reasons that come to mind. If I'm doing small screws in soft wood I'll often reach for the regular drill with the mechanical clutch (like pocket holes in pine). On the other hand you can go in slow with an impact and tighten to one or two hits if you want. Some of the newer impacts also have multiple torque settings.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2014 03:11
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Any time you want torque without the impact. An impact driver will spin without the impact engaging, but only at certain torques, and that specific torque will vary between drivers. Some may have the option to disable the impact functionality? I dunno, mine doesn't. In any event, I don't think I'd ever want, say, a drill bit to get hit with the impact driver triggering, so I just wouldn't chance it by putting a drill bit in an impact driver. Sometimes you definitely want smooth torque instead of momentary torque. The obvious case being the aforementioned drilling scenario. But that's why it's an impact driver, because it's for driving. The Milwaukee M12 impact driver bit kit that I got came with three drill bits. They're "Shockwave" branded like the rest of the kit, though, so probably built different from normal ones. Looks like the "Shockwave" pitch is that the bits have an absorbent section like on a torque stick.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2014 04:58
|
|
|
Interesting, hadn't seen that before. Still, for a lot of situations (almost all?), even if the bit can handle it, I'd want continuous torque. But it's interesting to know the option is out there. Trying to think of when you would want to impact drive a drill bit though, or if it's just a marketing ploy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2014 14:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 02:46 |
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Interesting, hadn't seen that before. Still, for a lot of situations (almost all?), even if the bit can handle it, I'd want continuous torque. But it's interesting to know the option is out there. Trying to think of when you would want to impact drive a drill bit though, or if it's just a marketing ploy. I think people were just doing it anyway so the manufacturers jumped on board. I'm not clear on any reasons why you'd do it or any advantages it has. It doesn't make sense to me why you'd want to do it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2014 16:48
|
|