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Subarus run a pretty high oil pressure so it's a good idea to get a filter with a strong bypass spring. There are a few good threads where guys tear apart filters and figure out what their bypass pressures are. The Subaru OEM filters are pretty cheap and good.
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Sep 26, 2014 17:25
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Airbag light issue: Someone asked if anyone had done it and I just knocked it out. Simple job, 20 minutes or so. The hardest part for me was removing the connectors as I'm always afraid I'm not pressing what I'm supposed to or whatever. I put some nasty blobs of solder on the little chip edges and it worked fine.
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Sep 26, 2014 23:30
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My driver side Sun visor came loose and now there's just bare metal holes where it used to be anchored. Anyone have any idea what I would need to replace it?
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Sep 27, 2014 03:49
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Sheet metal screws with a shank the size of the hole.
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Sep 27, 2014 03:52
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Latest Update, my 04 wrx wagon, 2 days after picking it up after having new clutch/flywheel propeller shaft, rear main seal, etc installed, and there is a puddle of transmission oil under the car. I take a look and I can actively see it dripping. After an hour I have a 6" diameter stain in the driveway. Now I am pissed, the car was being packed for a roadtrip with the family, leaving tomorrow and instead I have to take it back to the shop and wait for them to get back on monday and explain why it is leaking. I do wonder if it could be related to my replacing both front CV axles, but that was 3 weeks ago and there was no leaks at all until I get the car back from the clutch service. Any ideas?
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Sep 28, 2014 00:32
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Latest Update, my 04 wrx wagon, 2 days after picking it up after having new clutch/flywheel propeller shaft, rear main seal, etc installed, and there is a puddle of transmission oil under the car. I take a look and I can actively see it dripping. After an hour I have a 6" diameter stain in the driveway. Now I am pissed, the car was being packed for a roadtrip with the family, leaving tomorrow and instead I have to take it back to the shop and wait for them to get back on monday and explain why it is leaking. There is a huge difference between leaking from the axle area and leaking from the tailshaft. A night and a piece of cardboard can diag that one. Either way, this is a "poo poo down the throat of whoever did the work" situation. You can continue to drive the car as long as you keep the fluids topped off.
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Sep 28, 2014 00:37
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Slow is Fast posted:There is a huge difference between leaking from the axle area and leaking from the tailshaft. A night and a piece of cardboard can diag that one. Either way, this is a "poo poo down the throat of whoever did the work" situation. You can continue to drive the car as long as you keep the fluids topped off. Well I did the axles, but I paid someone to do the big work. Guess I'll see who has egg on their face. Either way, it is at the shop, I'll pass on when I hear something next week.
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Sep 28, 2014 00:51
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Well I did the axles, but I paid someone to do the big work. Guess I'll see who has egg on their face. Either way, it is at the shop, I'll pass on when I hear something next week. I'm wondering why doing the clutch would make it leak? Don't you unbolt the motor and slide it forward to do it on these cars?
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Sep 28, 2014 02:32
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I know they put in new oil. Some googling suggests that overfilling can be problematic, but I don't know if that's the case cause I dropped off the car before thinking of checking the dip stick. They also put in a new cylinder, maybe that's the cause and it was fluid from there. I have a hard time telling the two apart as they both smell nasty to me.
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Sep 28, 2014 02:42
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Axle or prop shaft seal probably got damaged when they were putting it back together.
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Sep 28, 2014 02:43
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I was about to put new steel wheels on my 2007 Impreza 2.5i when I realized there was no center cap. Is it OK to leave the center open, exposing the spindle nut (I think that's what it's called)?
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Sep 29, 2014 18:47
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I've done it before and I've seen countless others drive around without centre caps, if you're really worried about it you can buy a set of hub caps for the steelies, but they're mostly cheap and crappy looking (at least all the aftermarket ones I've seen) and they still don't seal against the wheel so dirt/water/salt will still find it's way in so they're not much more than a splash shield.
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Sep 29, 2014 23:56
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At the very least I would apply a thin coat of a thick grease over any exposed threads and pin to have some protection against corrosion.
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Sep 30, 2014 13:46
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Majere posted:At the very least I would apply a thin coat of a thick grease over any exposed threads and pin to have some protection against corrosion. Don't do this, the grease will just pick up any dirt/debris and make getting the nut off even harder and messier than it needs to be, as well as probably covering your wheel in grease after a few miles. It will be fine out in the open so long as you aren't driving offroad through mudholes every day. Hell, even then it will probably be ok.
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Sep 30, 2014 13:53
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My winter tires are on a set of steel wheels without center or hub caps, it's fine.
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Sep 30, 2014 13:56
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Managed to see my '02 listed on Autotrader for about a week before it was gone. The dealer itself was selling it, I figured it would have went to auction. I noticed in the pictures that they took out the all aluminum Koyo radiator and put an OEM one back in before they listed it for sale. I thought that was interesting. On a whim, I logged into my.subaru.com because I still have the car listed in there and I was able to see what they actually did with the car before they sold it. I guess my subframe was rusted through, so they replaced that. The reason they had for replacing the radiator was "coolant leaking" but the radiator wasn't doing anything of the sort. I'm wondering if some tech nabbed the part. They also replaced the front lower control arms as per the recall and recharged the AC system. That last one wasn't what was wrong with the AC though, there was a stuck valve under the dash. So, I'm not sure if they replaced that or not. They had it listed for $9,995 which is a bit nuts for a 13 year old car with 119k miles on it. I wondered what it ended up selling for.
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Sep 30, 2014 20:09
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bull3964 posted:Managed to see my '02 listed on Autotrader for about a week before it was gone. The dealer itself was selling it, I figured it would have went to auction. The techs I know are notorious for ganking upgrades out of cars coming in and out. STi intercooler, roof racks, rads, you name it. Mods don't mean poo poo to the dealer. also lol at 10k for a bugeye
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Sep 30, 2014 20:25
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10k for a bugeye is ridiculous even by Australian standards unless it was the cleanest most perfectly maintained car in the history of ever. That thing is not worth 10k especially with rust, unless they are heaps more popular over there than they are here for some reason.
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Oct 1, 2014 05:11
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Insurance gave me $11,000ish for mine tax included. An 02 with 65,000 miles. I bought it for $9000 a few months prior. WRXs are EXTREMELY popular here though, Subarus in general too.
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Oct 1, 2014 06:46
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Going to replace my clutch later this month and I'm thinking that the Exedy stock replacement. I'm planning to go to stage 2 (uppipe, dp, catback and tune) at a later date but want to make sure this will handle the extra torque. As for some of the other things I'm planning to when I pull the motor to do this: inspect: Turbocharger seals coolant system rear suspension clunk steering rack and tie rods replace: Oil Pickup (with covert oil pickup) Clutch hydraulic line sparkplugs uppipe (grimmspeed) engine and trans mounts with group-n (are the stock ones cheaper? RSD has all 3 for 225) flush all fluids anything else? Car has 173k miles OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Oct 1, 2014 |
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Oct 1, 2014 21:40
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If you're pulling the motor anyhow at 173k, seems like it'd be worth going ahead and doing the timing belt early. I'd check the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and spark plug gaskets for seepage/etc. If you're planning on pulling the oil pan to do the pickup, check the bearings and decide if it's even worth doing all of that to a 173k mi motor?
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Oct 1, 2014 22:29
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Yeah, with the motor out, I would just do the valve cover gaskets. I would be really surprised if they weren't already weeping at this point. I would also inspect/replace the turbo oil return line. That always likes to crack and start to drip oil on the exhaust.
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Oct 1, 2014 22:43
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Oh yeah, I can smell a tiny bit of burning oil sometimes when i'm idling at a light.
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Oct 1, 2014 22:46
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JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:Good game, guys. Glad i graduated to a BMW, the 5 series is in 168th place, behind even the volvo 850. edit: dodge viper is in 5th to last place, what the gently caress
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Oct 1, 2014 23:20
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Powershift posted:
Drivers are probably too terrified of their car trying to kill them than drive it hard.
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Oct 1, 2014 23:36
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Old rich people buy fast cars, barely do the speed limit, news at 11. Alternatively more expensive car = money to get out of the ticket via a lawyer.
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Oct 2, 2014 00:09
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BraveUlysses posted:Oh yeah, I can smell a tiny bit of burning oil sometimes when i'm idling at a light. Could be valve cover leak to the header/up-pipe. If you're pulling the engine to do the clutch those gaskets and the half moon seals are easy to replace. Also send me a pm/email about buying parts.
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Oct 2, 2014 00:24
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Thinking of getting a 2015 WRX but I'm afraid of a 2007 -> 2008 situation where Subaru bumped the power output by 30HP. And then I see bits about the new facelift for the Impreza for 2016, which probably means 2017 for the WRX? Should I just go ahead and get the WRX anyway?
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Oct 2, 2014 16:31
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Coffee Jones posted:Thinking of getting a 2015 WRX but I'm afraid of a 2007 -> 2008 situation where Subaru bumped the power output by 30HP. WRX got the new engine, STI was the one stuck with the old EJ series (great engine with lots of aftermarket support and known limits and issues but just an old design with old tech and pretty much phased out already from the rest of the line up) I feel that the STI will be the one that gets a new exciting engine and possibly a decent power bump in the next couple years, the WRX should be a safe bet for this gen. All the reviews are pretty glowing from what I've seen, so I don't think you can go wrong getting the new WRX now.
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Oct 2, 2014 16:59
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Coffee Jones posted:Thinking of getting a 2015 WRX but I'm afraid of a 2007 -> 2008 situation where Subaru bumped the power output by 30HP. What are you looking for in the car and what are your fears?
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Oct 2, 2014 17:10
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I do think there's some valid concern that if the STI gets a power bump following a new engine, the WRX might get a corresponding modest bump. We know the engine in the WRX is capable of 296hp in production form but possibly not in US emissions restrictions. However, I don't expect that to happen right away.
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Oct 2, 2014 17:33
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Experiencing a weird issue with my '14 XV Crosstrek. I have Gas/CVT. 7.4k Miles. I've noticed 3 issues involving (I believe) the CVT: 1. When I go in to Drive from Park, and push the gas, it takes a half of a second to respond, resulting in a "jerk" forward, as the engine revs but the transmission hasn't caught yet. Kind of like if you go in to neutral, rev the engine, and then switch to Drive while it's revving. 2. When I sit idle, especially right when the car starts, whether braking or in park, the car sits at around 900 RPM and occasionally (maybe once every 30 seconds), jumps to around 1100 RPM, then slowly works it's way back down to 700-900 RPM. When it does this, I hear a "rumbling" from the engine, almost the same as if I stalled out a manual car but not quite as severe. 3. When I'm driving and speed up, and then let go of the gas and coast for a bit, as my speed decreases I experience similar symptoms, such as jerking as if I'm going from a really high gear to a low gear in a manual and buck a little (except, much less severe). This is the least noticable/annoying of my 3 issues. Are these normal for this car? They honestly don't bother me that much, I am just curious if they are normal or if what I'm experiencing needs to be looked at. I will probably mention it at my next oil change unless someone says my car is about to explode.
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Oct 2, 2014 19:49
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What is everyone's thought of this 2006 Outback 3.0 for $3990 as a fixer-upper, a candidate for an eventual diesel swap, and using the leftover engine for an 818 build? http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/4688358348.html I'm not sure what's going on with the driver's headrest or the center elbow rest but the rest of the interior doesn't look too bad. The exterior damage seems to be limited to the body cladding, bumpers, and hood. How much should I expect to have those fixed, replaced, or cleaned up? Also, what would be my best option for making the hood work with the top mounted intercooler on the diesel engine? Replace it with a Legacy GT or Outback XT hood or fix and mod the hood with an air scoop? Then again, it's from Brooklyn so who knows what kind of hell it's been through. Could I do better? Edward IV fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Oct 2, 2014 |
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Oct 2, 2014 19:58
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b0jangles posted:Experiencing a weird issue with my '14 XV Crosstrek. I have Gas/CVT. 7.4k Miles. I don't know about 1 and 3, but for 2 is your air conditioner on?
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Oct 2, 2014 20:00
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FogHelmut posted:I don't know about 1 and 3, but for 2 is your air conditioner on? Yes, I just tried it with the compressor off and it seemed to not happen after that. I don't know if it was cause/effect, because the blue engine light also went off around the same time. Why would the AC compressor affect that? Thanks for the response
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Oct 2, 2014 20:30
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AC compressor cycling puts additional load on the engine and the idle has to adjust. My '11 feels like it's going to stall too at idle when the AC compressor cycles.
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Oct 2, 2014 20:43
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bull3964 posted:AC compressor cycling puts additional load on the engine and the idle has to adjust. My '11 feels like it's going to stall too at idle when the AC compressor cycles. Good to know. When I start up the engine tomorrow morning after sitting out all night, I'll see if it happens with AC off. Hadn't been paying attention to that, didn't think they were related at all. Do you have same engine/tranny as me?
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Oct 2, 2014 20:47
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Latest Update, my 04 wrx wagon, 2 days after picking it up after having new clutch/flywheel propeller shaft, rear main seal, etc installed, and there is a puddle of transmission oil under the car. I take a look and I can actively see it dripping. After an hour I have a 6" diameter stain in the driveway. Now I am pissed, the car was being packed for a roadtrip with the family, leaving tomorrow and instead I have to take it back to the shop and wait for them to get back on monday and explain why it is leaking. Update again: Got back in town today, got the car back as well. It was the axle seals that were leaking. The bill was around $300 to replace the seals but the shop covered it. I fully admit that I am a novice and I replaced the axles about 3 weeks previous which a search of this thread will show. I also did not replace the seals when I did so, but I also know that there was not a drop of leaking oil until the clutch was serviced and I am pretty sure they also had to remove the axles when they were working. I don't know, I guess they fixed it, and it may have been me. Kind of feel weirded out by the whole mess. At least the car seems to be happy.
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Oct 2, 2014 20:50
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b0jangles posted:Do you have same engine/tranny as me? Nope, different on both accounts. But I know the behavior well. It's something my '02 never did, but it wasn't drive by wire or had nearly the amount of emission controls on it.
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Oct 2, 2014 21:13
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